Be sure to wait 10 minutes before checking oil after running engine to give the oil a chance to drain down into the sump where the dipstick takes a reading or you may end up overfilling it.

Better yet; take a reading the next morning if you aren't going anywhere.

Red X because you need to check your oil level after allowing the bike to warm up. If you wait overnight to check your oil it will appear to be low because the oil will be cold/room temp. Oil thins out when at temp, which is why you should always check the level after warming the engine up to operating temperature.

If 60-90 degrees F outside/in my garage, I'll idle for 5 minutes, then let it sit for 5 minutes, then check the oil level.

 

put in 4 and check level. If full run engine till warm. Check oil, top up as needed

 

You're welcome.

 

I said it the way I meant to right from the start. An experienced mechanic is not going to run the engine to get the oil hot then check the oil level. He will check it cold and fill according. Then either put his tools away and call it a day or wash up and hop on the bike for a ride.

An inexperienced and new bike owner may choose to do it the way the manual says but it isn't necessary. A really new rider should probably do it the way the manual says at least one time so they can see how much the oil level will change on the dipstick from when the oil is hot and when it's cold but after that one time there should be no need.

 

Hmm, so if you change your oil you wait until the next morning before you check the oil level and go for a ride? Also, how do you think every shop in the world would do it? They aren't going to keep someones bike overnight to let it cool down to check the oil. I guess in your view all of those shops are inexperienced mechanics?

 

I think some people put too much thought into this. Just fill it and get it somewhere between the low and full mark. It has a range that's acceptable for the oil level

 

That's pretty much how I look at it too. If it's at or above the half way mark between fill and full when I check it cold; I don't sweat it. If it's below that but still above the fill mark but I'm going to be changing the oil within the next 100 miles or so; I don't sweat it.

 

I check my oil level every 5K miles and that's it. I change the oil, check the level, and leave it alone for 5k miles.

 

My Victory ownership have included a 2002 V92C, 2004 Kingpin, 2006 Kingpin, 2008 Vision, and 2013 Crossroads. NONE of them ever used any oil between 3,000 mile changes.
DP

 

:rofl2:

 

You "SHOULD" use all of the bottles, including the small one. But many people only need 4 qts when changing the oil. Put the four 4 qts in, run the engine briefly to circulate the oil, then check the oil level. Add as needed.

 

Yes, you use them all.

 

Be sure to wait 10 minutes before checking oil after running engine to give the oil a chance to drain down into the sump where the dipstick takes a reading or you may end up overfilling it.

Better yet; take a reading the next morning if you aren't going anywhere.

 

I meant to say this: I run the engine for 2 minutes after adding the right amount of oil, and oil filter plus the engine cases are still warm after a ride , but won't burn my fingers when I try to remove the oil plug. I then shut the engine off. Right after I do this, I then check the oil level on the dip stick.

 

I usually run the engine for 2 minutes when it's cold ,and at the first start up, then shut the engine off. Right after I do this, I then check the oil level on the dip stick.

Then you're doing it wrong. It takes a little bit for the oil to drain back down into the sump. The hotter the oil the quicker it drains down.

Everyone should already know the bike needs to be vertical and not over on the kickstand when checking oil level.

 

Hard to believe I actually have to explain how to do an oil change on a forum with so many experienced bike riders but it is what it is I guess. This is from an 03-06 Steel Frame bike Service Manual. They are all about the same though.

1. Start and run engine until it reaches normal operating
temperature. Stop engine.
2. Securely support the motorcycle on the sidestand.
3. Place an oil drain pan under drain plug (A) and oil filter
(B).
4. Remove drain plug and sealing washer using a good
quality 6mm Allen socket.
After an oil change, the low oil pressure indicator re-
mains illuminated longer than usual before going
out. Do not increase engine RPM above idle until oil
pressure indicator is not illuminated or engine may
be damaged.
5. Allow oil to drain completely. 13. Stop engine.
6. Remove filter with a filter wrench, strap wrench, or
adjustable pliers. 14. Wait 3-5 minutes before checking oil level.
7. Clean drain plug sealing surface and reinstall drain
plug with a new sealing washer. 16. Check for leaks around drain plug and oil filter.
Drain Plug Torque:
20 Nm (15 ft-lbs)
8. Clean any residue or debris from oil filter sealing
surface and threads.
9. Make sure filter gasket is properly seated in new oil
filter. Apply a thin film of clean engine oil to gasket.
Screw filter on until gasket contacts the sealing
surface. Tighten filter by hand an additional 3/4 turn.
10. Remove dipstick and install a funnel or filler spout.
11. Fill crankcase through dipstick hole with specified
amount of Victory Semi-Synthetic 20W-40 Motor Oil,
or an equivalent.
12. Reinstall dipstick. Start and run engine until it reaches
normal operating temperature.
13. Stop engine.
14. Wait 3-5 minutes before checking oil level.
15. Adjust oil level as required.

Now what it doesn't say is to check the oil when it's cold so you know what level it should be when you check it in the future to know you have the right level of oil.

Do it however way you want as long as it gets done on a regular basis but if you want to make it easy on yourself; you will check it the next morning when you know the level is exactly at the full mark so you have a reference. I don't bother checking it hot because that's not how I check my oil level on a routine basis.

These service manuals are written for people who don't know a Phillips from a Flat Blade so they hold the hand of the reader more than they would if they knew their readers were experienced mechanics.

Red X that all you want.

FWIW; neither one of my Vic's use more than a half quart between oil changes so I don't check the oil levels very often until they are least half way through an oil change interval and if I see it's consistently the same; I just wait till the next oil change if it's within 1000 miles.

YMMV, JMHO, Okie Dokie.

 

Ah I think if you had phrased your initial post differently I would not have had to disagree. Maybe edit it and say something like, Once you know your oil is at the right level let the bike sit overnight then check it again such that you can place a hash mark on your dipstick as to where the level is when both full and cold.

If you read your post like a person other than you would, you make it sound like it's best to just wait until the bike is cold to check the level.

 

Kevinx say use 4 and 1/4 no more. Check oil with bike vertical. Screw dipstick in and then out to read oil level

 

That works with post 2005 Vic's. Prior to 2006 they might use up to 6 qts.

 

If someone had told me this morning I would be having this conversation having to explain myself on something so basic on a Victory forum; I would have laughed out loud.

I'm pretty sure even the least experienced tech at any given dealership or shop knows how to check the oil cold; as in when they first fill it up, start it one time for 30 seconds or so to let the filter fill up, then let it sit 5-10 minutes depending on what else they have going on, it could be longer, then check and fill accordingly but if they have any real experience changing oil, and that's the job they give to all noobs, they quickly learn or were taught to fill with X amount per model and year.

If they are consistent in their work they won't have to add any more oil. All techs/mechs do oil changes in the course of their work on bikes but if the bike is in the shop for basic maintenance; the new guy generally gets that job. At least that was my experience when I worked in a bike shop (Honda/Kawasaki) years ago.

Look, I'm not really trying to be a smart ass, but I know I come across that way sometimes; especially on silly subjects IMHO. Pay me no mind. I'm really just trying to help. Seriously.

 

I check the oil cold after I filled it up. The difference between hot and cold is probably pretty little. This is better than what I do for my car. I just dump the 5qt jug in, look underneath to make sure nothing is coming back out, then start it and put it back in it's parking spot. As long as there's not a stream of oil, I won't check it for awhile.

 

I admit that I put a lot of TLC into my XCT oil changes. When I first purchased my bike my dealer did the oil changes and I ended up with oil all over the left side of my bike. When I went for my 4,000 mile ride out west in 2015 it was so bad that oil was making its way onto the passenger backrest. The dealer knew I was headed out west, yet they overfilled the oil by more than a quart. It was a quart overfilled after returning from that trip and spewing oil all over the bike. The fact that I had a porous head didn't help matters either when it comes to the splatter factor. Since having the porous head fixed and doing my own oil changes I have never had oil spew on anything.

With my bike there is a HUGE difference on the OEM dipstick between checking the oil level when overnight cold versus allowing it to warm up before checking the level. Once I pull my bike out of storage, usually in March, I'll post pictures for all to see the difference. In the end, whatever works for you and your engine is fine by me. If it makes you feel like a tough/experienced guy, please feel free to bash on me or call me names for taking the extra time to ensure my oil level is exactly between the low and full hash marks after warming it up.

 

@BBob - What do you disagree with?

 

The snark.