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I think the seller will do all customers service to make customers satisfed
ok I will bite a bit harder, if I buy 1 and I will report back with tint coloring amperage draw ,and I have a friend from the budget light forum who can identify fake Cree emitters from the genuine item .

I recently bought a ultra fire zooming flashlight( supposedly cree xmlt6) which drew 1 amp at the emitter .5 a at tail cap 2 x cell =8.4v advertised as Cree had lattice bright on the emitter.
advertised as 1600 lumens , a quality Cree emitter will put out around 300 lumen at 1 amp.
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this was a cree adv light also.

so my challenge is if I buy and it is rubbish I expect full refund and I will post results here

balls in your court suparee..

just to show off a little here a light I built running 2 x 4.2v cells drains 7 a at 8v which equates to 56 watts runs a xhp50 cree emitter
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Suparee signature say's cross country but his picture is not a cross country! Hmmm.
 
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Suparee signature say's cross country but his picture is not a cross country! Hmmm.
That was one reason I asked if they had a Vic at all.

Im not buying it. They are here and seem to only be pushing the lights. In one post they seem like the guy making and selling them, but then in another they say "I think the seller will do all customers service to make customers satisfied."

From what I have read about the customer service in these situations is that it is non existent. Another things I know is when it comes to cheap LEDs that is usually just what you get.

I think I would rather pay a bit more and know I had the real thing instead of getting a fake that could burn out at any time leaving me without lights.

That's just me.
 
Cheap imitation Chinese Junk! Another thread says the LED's are not lined up right so the hi beam shines up in the tree's looking for monkey's! :sign_tbnt:
 
Cheap imitation Chinese Junk! Another thread says the LED's are not lined up right so the hi beam shines up in the tree's looking for monkey's! :sign_tbnt:
They must have bought the Aussie model to spot the dreaded drop bears.
 
I hope he does. What I finally did was to cut the key in the male part of the headlight connector off so the plug can be put in either way. That way you can rotate the plug to get the proper polarity to make them work properly.
Thanks Joe for your feedback, surely we changed all the polarity issue, and for some opposite type, we will have additional wire to change the polarity.
 
ok I will bite a bit harder, if I buy 1 and I will report back with tint coloring amperage draw ,and I have a friend from the budget light forum who can identify fake Cree emitters from the genuine item .

I recently bought a ultra fire zooming flashlight( supposedly cree xmlt6) which drew 1 amp at the emitter .5 a at tail cap 2 x cell =8.4v advertised as Cree had lattice bright on the emitter.
advertised as 1600 lumens , a quality Cree emitter will put out around 300 lumen at 1 amp.
Image
this was a cree adv light also.

so my challenge is if I buy and it is rubbish I expect full refund and I will post results here

balls in your court suparee..

just to show off a little here a light I built running 2 x 4.2v cells drains 7 a at 8v which equates to 56 watts runs a xhp50 cree emitter
Image
Good points, now we are using CREE XT-E type, the spec. as below:

Please visit: http://www.cree.com/~/media/Files/C...d-Modules/XLamp/Data-and-Binning/XLampXTE.pdf
And we can show you more details if you want to know further information.

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Paul Pomerleau did a video on these lights along with some other well known kits/styles.
 
Thanks for Paul's video, he is very professional on the lighting parts for victory.
just having a look at the ebay link its down to 102 us.
how many actual xte chips are in it to produce the advertised lumens ?
and at what current are they driven?
why didn't you use xml or xpl chips?
now we are using 8pcs XT-E.
 
Paul Pomerleau did a video on these lights along with some other well known kits/styles.
Thanks for Paul's professional video. It shows the real details with the advantage and disadvange on each headlights. Really professional!!!
Regarding some test instrument limiting condition, the result is not the same with our company laboratory. for example, H11 LED headlight is much higher than our own test. and victory's real brightness is not so high. All of these just because instrument limitation condition, not Paul's professionality.
However we will supply more detailed lab test report for Paul later.

Integrating Sphere Ball:
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Paul Pomerleau did a video on these lights along with some other well known kits/styles.
Yes and thank goodness as safety is of concern. My take away from the video, if you ride at night at all don't blow your load on something that isn't safe or as bright as the stock headlamp.
 
Yes and thank goodness as safety is of concern. My take away from the video, if you ride at night at all don't blow your load on something that isn't safe or as bright as the stock headlamp.
Safety is our consideration, too.So now we changed the beam pattern to better and professional..
 
$100 is nothing, but still sucks when you buy a piece of crap. I think he is taking returns, plus the link I saw is an "or best offer."
I'm in no rush, just curious how they turn out. My HID lights are probably much brighter. I just hate it takes 7-10 seconds for the bright to reach max output. Tough when I'm trying to flash someone who is blinding me with their brights. But when the HID bright is running it lights up everything!
Do they make a relay to fix this problem? I had HID in my 95 short wide...did the same thing... Heard rumors of a relay jw if it would be on a XC too...looking to purchase HID kit for my XC
 
Do they make a relay to fix this problem? I had HID in my 95 short wide...did the same thing... Heard rumors of a relay jw if it would be on a XC too...looking to purchase HID kit for my XC
The relay is used to delay the HID from igniting for about 10 seconds so you can start your bike and still ride with headlights on.

People who put HID's on their bikes need to start it a bit differently.
When you turn the ignition switch on, the HID's will draw about 10 amps while igniting.
If you were to press the Start button at this time, the starter will take most of the power from the bike to start the engine and the HID light will abort from lack of power, and you will ride around with no headlight and probably not even realize it.
What you are supposed to do before starting the bike is wait for about 10 seconds for the HID to reach full brightness and it will now draw only about 3 amps. Now when you start your bike everything will be fine.
To fix the delay in starting problem a TDR (time delay relay) is added so the light will not ignite for about 10 seconds, giving you time to immediately start your bike and the headlight will light later.

It is impossible for a cold HID to reach maximum brightness immediately, it takes about 10 seconds. This is why the high beam bulb is usually some other type like LED or Halogen that is instant on. When you need high beam, you want it now, and HID just won't do it.

Of course there are always exceptions. If you live in an area where you hardly see anyone else, then you can have 2 HID's on all the time.
They are always hot so you can flash your high beams if you need to, and it will be instant.
But people in urban areas can't do this.

Hope this helps.
 
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