[icemann]

Polished the master cylinders, replaced the banjo bolts with chrome.
Even with a mighty vac it's so easy to suck the tank dry.

For those whom have never done this on a vision.

1st. DO NOT LET THE CYLINDER GO DRY!
2nd. DO NOT LET THE CYLINDER GO DRY!
3rd. With power assisted rear braking tied to the front braking. You have to bleed the upper half (fronts) of the front calipers, 1st passenger side, then driver side and top off tank. then do the passenger side lower, then driver side lower (rear) bleeders that are on the front calipers. Then finally do the rear brake bleeder last. All without emptying the tank.

Took awhile but finally got it right.

THE CLUTCH SIDE, I personally feel the bleeder is too small to mess with. FIll tank, pump handle several times to release some air. Squeeze clutch all the way in and zip tie to the handle pulled tight. Leave it all night until next day and top off.

Used a mighty vac from harbor freight.
jd
View attachment 485073

 

[BBob]

Speed bleeders are your friend too.

The numbers for Victorys are SB8125L (get 2 of these) and SB8125LL (get 1 of these for the left front caliper). I find it best to phone an order in so you get the correct ones. Here's their web site. Speed Bleeder Bleeding Brakes Bleeding Motorcycle Brakes Automotive Bleeder Screw Brake Bleeder

 

[Prestaged]

X2 on the Speed Bleeders. They are neat little things. I don't leave home without them.

 

[BrotherWind]

Love the speed bleeders. I even bought a second bag so I can hook up both front sides for even easier bleeding. I do hate the Visions brake deal. Also their reverse sucks to compared to the GW.

 

[Ghostrider25]

@icemann Thanks for the info. When you say Passenger side and drivers side, do you mean right caliper (Passenger) and left calper (Driver)?

@BBob I also love the idea of the speed bleeders. I might just look into those.

 

[Poseidon]

This trick helps a lot. Between this and a mighty vac, I bled my hydraulic clutch in about 10 minutes.

 

[vision_nut]

big trick is bench bleed the master cylinder first. That way there will be no air in it.
Once you get some fluid coming out of calier. Tie brake lever to grip and let it sit for overnight. Make sure master cylinder doesn't run dry

 

[icemann]

This trick helps a lot. Between this and a mighty vac, I bled my hydraulic clutch in about 10 minutes.

my mighty vac wont stay on.

 

[Poseidon]

my mighty vac wont stay on.

Zip ties will help with that.

 

[icemann]

I learned. You have to have started somesort of bleed process for the zipntie to work. Finally got it 100 percent

 

[Terminal]

Polished the master cylinders, replaced the banjo bolts with chrome.
Even with a mighty vac it's so easy to suck the tank dry.

For those whom have never done this on a vision.

1st. DO NOT LET THE CYLINDER GO DRY!
2nd. DO NOT LET THE CYLINDER GO DRY!
3rd. With power assisted rear braking tied to the front braking. You have to bleed the upper half (fronts) of the front calipers, 1st passenger side, then driver side and top off tank. then do the passenger side lower, then driver side lower (rear) bleeders that are on the front calipers. Then finally do the rear brake bleeder last. All without emptying the tank.

Took awhile but finally got it right.

THE CLUTCH SIDE, I personally feel the bleeder is too small to mess with. FIll tank, pump handle several times to release some air. Squeeze clutch all the way in and zip tie to the handle pulled tight. Leave it all night until next day and top off.

Used a mighty vac from harbor freight.
jd
View attachment 485073

I know this is an old thread, but I am having rear brake issues. I had let the bike setup more this year than I have in previous years, and now the weather is better and we can start to get out a bit my rear brake has gotten spongy. Basically no rear at all. I have read other threads about how you can just bleed the front right rear bleeder, I have ABS linked brakes.

I have a vacuum bleeder but I can not get fluid out of any of the rear bleeders. I just get air and a bit of fluid. I can bleed the fronts they seem ok. A buddy seems to think it's the rear master cylinder but before i go down that route I was hoping maybe I just am not bleeding it properly and came across this thread.

In all the threads I have read they mention the top reservoir but no one ever talks about the rear reservoir under the front firing. I assume you should watch both reservoirs, yes? I have a 2013 so is this procedure the best and does it sound like I have a bad master cylinder.

Also any recommendations for getting parts for victory's these days?

 

[md2420]

With the linked brakes, bleed the middle bleeder on the front right caliper. This is the rear linked portion. Open the cap on the rear master cylinder inside the front fairing and top off as needed as you bleed.

when I had to do this to mine, it sat about 3 months and I got a nice result within 2 cycles of bleeding. Yours may take a little more. Check the fluid level in the reservoir before you start.

I did not touch the top reservoir for the front brakes at all. Only the middle bleed screw and the rear reservoir in the fairing. Simple one man job since everything is right there.

btw - I used the traditional method. Pump brake, hold, loosen bleeder with wrench until pedal bottoms, hold pedal, tighten bleeder. Repeat as necessary

 

[VicVisionBulldog]

I just did this for the rear of my 08 and ended up adding some fluid to both reservoirs. Just a tad. I did it manually as well.

I put a piece of cardboard as a shield to protect my bike. Once I hit the pedal a bit hard and sprayed my bike with the fluid. So now I do this just in case I do it again.

 

[Terminal]

Yes I have tried bleeding the front, as I mentioned in my OP.

With the manual method I can't really get anything out of it. I never can build up any pressure. When I use the Vacuum bleeder I just get air and a little fluid. Both reservoirs are full.

 

[VicVisionBulldog]

Yes I have tried bleeding the front, as I mentioned in my OP.

With the manual method I can't really get anything out of it. I never can build up any pressure. When I use the Vacuum bleeder I just get air and a little fluid. Both reservoirs are full.

That's strange.

 

[Terminal]

Got a new Master cylinder, got it installed today and all is working again. I guess it went bad. The Belly Pan disintegrated so I now need to get a new one. It was cracked pretty bad went I took it off last year to change my battery. I put some black Gorilla tape to hold it together, but when I took it off this time it didn't make it.

Of coarse if the Victory guys had ran the bolt for the Master Cylinder reservoir from the other direction I wouldn't have had to take off any of the fairing.

 

[bobzinger]

I just ordered the Speed Bleeders 2ea - SB8125L, and 1ea SB8125LL as suggested in this post. After I ordered I looked more in their website and they say all 3 are the same for 99-03 Victorys. Mines a 2011 XC. Does it have 2 different sizes. The "LL" is longer.

 

[Texasbaehr]

Got a new Master cylinder, got it installed today and all is working again. I guess it went bad. The Belly Pan disintegrated so I now need to get a new one. It was cracked pretty bad went I took it off last year to change my battery. I put some black Gorilla tape to hold it together, but when I took it off this time it didn't make it.

Of coarse if the Victory guys had ran the bolt for the Master Cylinder reservoir from the other direction I wouldn't have had to take off any of the fairing.

Heavy Metal Designs (HMD) is making the belly pans. They are no longer available from Polaris and used ones are very rare in usable condition. The HMD pans are a bit pricey but they stepped up and made them better than OEM and have to cover their tooling costs. Call them to oreder one and get them to give you a break on shipping.
HMD-238 Vision Belly Pan - Heavy Metal Designz

 

[morgdog]

Have yall never filled from the bottom up? A big ass syringe full of new brake fluid pushed in through the bleeder up to the MC. No problems whatsoever.

 

[new to Vic]

With the linked brakes, bleed the middle bleeder on the front right caliper. This is the rear linked portion. Open the cap on the rear master cylinder inside the front fairing and top off as needed as you bleed.

when I had to do this to mine, it sat about 3 months and I got a nice result within 2 cycles of bleeding. Yours may take a little more. Check the fluid level in the reservoir before you start.

I did not touch the top reservoir for the front brakes at all. Only the middle bleed screw and the rear reservoir in the fairing. Simple one man job since everything is right there.

btw - I used the traditional method. Pump brake, hold, loosen bleeder with wrench until pedal bottoms, hold pedal, tighten bleeder. Repeat as neces

With the linked brakes, bleed the middle bleeder on the front right caliper. This is the rear linked portion. Open the cap on the rear master cylinder inside the front fairing and top off as needed as you bleed.

when I had to do this to mine, it sat about 3 months and I got a nice result within 2 cycles of bleeding. Yours may take a little more. Check the fluid level in the reservoir before you start.

I did not touch the top reservoir for the front brakes at all. Only the middle bleed screw and the rear reservoir in the fairing. Simple one man job since everything is right there.

btw - I used the traditional method. Pump brake, hold, loosen bleeder with wrench until pedal bottoms, hold pedal, tighten bleeder. Repeat as necessawould

With the linked brakes, bleed the middle bleeder on the front right caliper. This is the rear linked portion. Open the cap on the rear master cylinder inside the front fairing and top off as needed as you bleed.

when I had to do this to mine, it sat about 3 months and I got a nice result within 2 cycles of bleeding. Yours may take a little more. Check the fluid level in the reservoir before you start.

I did not touch the top reservoir for the front brakes at all. Only the middle bleed screw and the rear reservoir in the fairing. Simple one man job since everything is right there.

btw - I used the traditional method. Pump brake, hold, loosen bleeder with wrench until pedal bottoms, hold pedal, tighten bleeder. Repeat as necessa

With the linked brakes, bleed the middle bleeder on the front right caliper. This is the rear linked portion. Open the cap on the rear master cylinder inside the front fairing and top off as needed as you bleed.

when I had to do this to mine, it sat about 3 months and I got a nice result within 2 cycles of bleeding. Yours may take a little more. Check the fluid level in the reservoir before you start.

I did not touch the top reservoir for the front brakes at all. Only the middle bleed screw and the rear reservoir in the fairing. Simple one man job since everything is right there.

btw - I used the traditional method. Pump brake, hold, loosen bleeder with wrench until pedal bottoms, hold pedal, tighten bleeder. Repeat as necessary

View attachment 575181

is it enough to bleed the front right middle without bleeding the rear and the front left middle?