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Say what you want. Rodhotter is dead nuts on it.
It comes down to one thing really.
What ever you use is ok. as long as it meets the recommended specs of the manufacturer. Some are better than others. Some need to be changed sooner than others. All the info is out there for you to make an educated deciscion. It's not that difficult really.
 
So to add fuel to this fire.....

Changed the oil at 500 miles from Ma Vic to AMSOIL.... February 2013..... 65,000 mile slater and many 5000 mile oil changes, the bike is as strong as day one.

Talk to Lloyd about AMSOIL, he told me the engine would be done at 65,000 the ball type bearings would be burnt and flat spotted due to too much slippery in the oil. So far I have 10 oil analysis reports saying all is normal (No abnormal wear)

Clutch, they are built for a 80-hp/90torque motor, add tuning and cams and the stock clutch doesn't seem to hold up well. Lots of torque in a tuned motor needs lots of clutch surface to hold on to that torque.

Flame on.
So at 73,000+ miles I will just say See quoted.... Amsoil 20W50, and warm up before riding.
 
Bought my Vic used and was surprised how loud 3rd and especially 4the gear were. I read a lot of forum threads, read what the manual says, talked to a lot of guys, parts department folks and techs. I settled on Amsoil 20-50 full synthetic. I'm in Texas where its mainly hot. I couldn't believe how much quieter the gears got, shifting is smooth. I've put over a 1,000 miles on Amsoil so far and love it. Bottom line, your bike, do what you think is best. Good luck!
 
its seldom mentioned about your riding temperature, hotter weather a 20-50 is a better choice IMO + for sure a 10W xx or at least 15W for those that brave the cold. the too slippery "wives tale" is what hardly used until they contracted screamin chicken oil from citgo i believe!! for sure lubricants continue to evolve, but prolly more to cut costs + increase profits. the Pennzoil from gas to liquid technology looks to be good, but have not seen anything specifically motorcycle. royal dutch shell the mother company of several brands as well as the beloved rotella line + is going ahead with another multi billion processing plant in western PA for the shale gas . they said they will phase the GTL base oil into a variety of their blends as time goes on. meanwhile you can't go wrong using real group IV PAO + or V Ester based oils. those selling the good but still lesser group III "synthetics" fail to mention several benefits of the "real synthetics". oils are tested + classified after the additives are blended in, + many of those additives that are required in refined CRUDE oil + DO NOT last are NOT used or minimally used in the synthesized synthetics
 
Probably not. That's thevog secret in the synthetic oil business.
 
as i stated in the past, if there is mainly group IV PAO or group V Ester base oils used they will tell you!! thought about giving their oil a go but dealers are few in USA + their PAO Ester prices rival Redline, my fav since Amsoil cheaped out!! Spectro platinum full synthetic with G-4 technology being PAO base oil explained in the tech section. some manufactures "may" add a small amount of the more costly group IV + V oil to meet a spec. an example is Mobil I extended performance said to use some of their own made PAO in the mix. those hiding the facts are using lower priced base oils + additives for more profits of course!!
 
Blah blah blah blah blah,. Over 150,000 miles on Mobil 1 15/50 Synthetic oil. Tell me again why I can't possibly do this. Experience beats speculation.
Carry on. I don't mean to confuse some of you with the facts.
 
both oils are similar being refined crude oils, the group III mobil I being more refined aka hydrocracked + usually better additives. the HTHS spec is good but on the lower side for a 50W which indicates a group III product. its on SALE now walmart.com for $22.88 for a 5 qt container + free ship if you spend over $50, a bargain for sure so stock up!!
 
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