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Oil recommendations

15K views 88 replies 33 participants last post by  randy.dixon  
#1 ·
It's time for an oil & filter change. My service manual says Victory brand Semi-Synthetic 20W-40 or equivalent. Should I go ahead to the Victory dealer and get their brand oil, or do any of you have a recommendation for an equivalent but more economical choice?

Thanks.
 
#33 ·
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That is why I use the Vic Oil. Been using it since the bike was new, religiously change it @ 5K and never had any issues with it. But if I were to go synthetic, I would go with either the AMSOIL 20W-40 or the Redline.
 
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#35 ·
Oh my God no not that.
 
#36 ·
synthetic oils are superior without question, but are you willing to pay for something you can't really see!! again most "synthetics," most amsoil products included are CRUDE oils with xtra processing classed group III, pennzoils GTL oils are said to be better but also need the extra processing to be classed as group III. group IV + V oils also classed as synthetic are REAL synthetics synthesised, not refined crudes. the group IV PAO oils are synthesised from one hydrocarbon molecule from crude + tailored to the application! group V Ester oils are many generally synthesised from acids + alcohols among other things, this group is costlier to make hence its higher selling price + is usually blended with PAO in superior products. Ester oils are without compare but need another "synthetic" to get the best blend!! group IV + V oils use little to no viscosity index improvers making them last longer while protecting better especially in a shared engine-tranny application. any combination of group III, IV, + V base oils are all legally "synthetic" for marketing + sales in most of the world, USA included!! your $$$ your choice as always. changing cheaper oils more often lessens the inferiority of it + those riding in older + very hot conditions as well as those keeping their bikes a long time benefit most using the best lubricants possible!! happy holidays to all
 
#38 ·
Why not just use the Victory oil as recommended? You will not see any additional benefits from changing oil to something else in my opinion. If there is, it will be so minimal most likely it will not be noticable. I will say that I switched to a full synthetic oil ONE time, and shifting was horrific, so I changed back to the Vic oil as called for. Also, you can buy the oil change kit from Amazon, or even on Ebay, for cheaper than you can get it from the local dealer.
 
#40 ·
Gonna throw a monkey wrench, I heard there are German pistons in the mix. Could be a rumor but the 15% foreign parts are somewhere... So what does that do for the oil brand.
ugg, i know, i know... canadian wiring, italian brakes, german pistons, but if hd cann call theirs american made with jap carbs, forks, pretty much entire bike, then im cool with it
 
#41 ·
I think it's all Bull Sh!t !
Use what you want ! Anything you want! It doesn't matter. I can say now after 5 yrs of Victory oil threads the end result is always the same.

I won't sway anyone as they won't sway me. Do your own research and make an informed deciscion. If it's a wet clutch compatible oil then it won't be in there long enough to make a difference.

Many of us have our personal experience with what works for us. If your not sure and question our choice then do everyone a favor and get the Vic oil.

I have to ask though. If Vic oil is so good then why have the masses switched to something else ?

K .... ready ........ GO !
 
#43 ·
I think it's all Bull Sh!t !
Use what you want ! Anything you want! It doesn't matter. I can say now after 5 yrs of Victory oil threads the end result is always the same.

I won't sway anyone as they won't sway me. Do your own research and make an informed deciscion. If it's a wet clutch compatible oil then it won't be in there long enough to make a difference.

Many of us have our personal experience with what works for us. If your not sure and question our choice then do everyone a favor and get the Vic oil.

I have to ask though. If Vic oil is so good then why have the masses switched to something else ?

K .... ready ........ GO !
Name brand, wet clutch compatible --BOOM-- good to go.
 
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#46 ·
I will admit that I did not read the whole write up but saved it for further review. I did skip around and ended at the motorcycle recommendations which he states to change water cooled shared sump bikes at 3000 mls and air cooled at 2000 mls, interesting. He also mentioned that a lot of the extended oil change intervals that some manufacturers are stating in the owners manuals has a lot to do with marketing hype and not engine longevity. I am sure @rodhotter will shed some light when he finishes with the article.
 
#44 ·
i am in the process of reading the long 540 RAT link BUT, he is talking about fully water cooled temperature controlled engines, much hotter running air cooled engines with shared gearbox!!! always looking to learn so i read!!!! so far at least he notes the superiority of better group IV + V base oils that can withstand more heat without breakdown!!!
 
#49 · (Edited)
most x w 30 oils are energy conserving except a few motorcycle oils. oils top # is classified at 100C-212F + our bikes surely heat oil more than that!! after the 212F your oil will continue to thin- become less viscous + may be too thin for proper protection although a few high end group IV + V oils motorcycle oils "may work"". O w XX oils surely use some group IV + V base oil in the blend, its the only way to meet the O W spec but why pay for what is not needed as you surely don't ride in sub zero temps where the benefits of O- W oils come into play + the lighter oils in a blend will burn off faster. if you look at mobil's web + free registration is needed for this, you can see the various PAO's aka group base oils they make with some being very thin as well as very thick listed in centistokes, the common measurement for a lubricants viscosity aka thickness. the 2 + 3 thousand mile recommendation is prolly for conventional oils + although concervativ,e depending on your riding habits prolly pretty close for "optimal" engine protection!!! of course real synthetic group IV PAO + Ester formulations are a whole different story!!!
 
#57 ·
(T3) T4 and T6

JASO MA
 
#60 ·
ITs just a certification that shows the blend was tested and is wet clutch compatible. Why take a chance on a oil that may not work. Some people don't know what to choose.

Manufacturers recommend a JASO MA oil on a shared wet clutch motor especially if straying from the factory recommended blend. Kind of a cover your A$$ thing for the manufacturer.

C'mon man you knew that ...... right ?
 
#61 ·
ITs just a certification that shows the blend was tested and is wet clutch compatible. Why take a chance on a oil that may not work. Some people don't know what to choose.

Manufacturers recommend a JASO MA oil on a shared wet clutch motor especially if straying from the factory recommended blend. Kind of a cover your A$$ thing for the manufacturer.

C'mon man you knew that ...... right ?
Lol yes i knew that
 
#63 ·
Just don't buy Vic oil it isn't JASO rated. :D
 
#64 ·
I was in A Vic dealer today. They were out of my Amsoil blend. Tried to push the Vic oil kit on me. Someone I never seen there before came out and said it's the same oil ! No difference ! Plus you get the filter and a washer.

Uh no thanks and no it's not.
The nerve of people
 
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#68 ·
I know. I was in checking out the new ownership. Thought I would give a few $$$$ And Support my local dealer. At $2 more a quart than I pay it wasn't killing me. Plus in hand would have been nice. Was gonna do an oil change this sat.
 
#72 ·
When I bought my Gunner, the Victory Regional Rep was running around the sales floor.
I said "hey, how about a couple FREE oil change kits" ??? ...and she said "sure, why not"

Damn, THAT was easy. I should have asked for a leather jacket and chrome and and and......

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Soooooo.....
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I still have these "kits"
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I'm a Rotella 15W-40 user. I admit it. And a NAPA filter. Or Purolator. Wix, if they got 'em.
In the mean time, these kits look pretty sitting on the shelf.
 
#73 ·
So why not use them ? They were free. It's not like the Rotella oil is better unless your using full synthetic.
 
#75 ·
Nor mine. Tried Vic oil twice. I wanted it out of my bike by 2500 miles. My Vic mechanic says that's about right. $69 every 2500 to 3000 miles ?
No thanks.
I am 4 k on my bike since last change and it's good. A person in tune with his machine just knows these things. I will change at 5k which will come quick this month. (Time off) and putbackin the liquid Gold. Lol
 
#78 ·
While we're at it let's throw in some darside tires, brake pads and exhaust ! Then we can call it the Big Bang theory.
 
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