[Kronos]

I broke mine in first 50miles with Penrite 'Running In' oil.
We run em in down under and break in horses.
Then dump it out and ran Penrite Mineral oil for a couple hundred miles, then dumped it and went to a Semi- synthetic, did try full synthetic for a while and it was fine on the street but shifts on the drag strip were getting hung up at around 6000 so I went back to Semi and shifting improved under race conditions.
Yeah I like to bed the engine in on mineral oil, but that's just me, oh the engineers that built the motor agreed too.

I'm just following the manual for now, can't hurt any, it's just alot different than how I break in engines for work

 

[Motorbikerx]

I'm just following the manual for now, can't hurt any, it's just alot different than how I break in engines for work

What's the manual say about it?

I remember the engineer that built mine read Lloydz break in instructions for the big bore and said, that's a recipe for glazing the bore.
There's a hill behind his workshop steady winding climb a mile or so then another mile downhill to let it cool and engine brake slightly descending , stop at bottom of hill, check all is good then repeat, not flogging it and not loading it up too much, beds the rings in.
That's how we do it here.

 

[Kronos]

What's the manual say about it?

I remember the engineer that built mine read Lloydz break in instructions for the big bore and said, that's a recipe for glazing the bore.
There's a hill behind his workshop steady winding climb a mile or so then another mile downhill to let it cool and engine brake slightly descending , stop at bottom of hill, check all is good then repeat, not flogging it and not loading it up too much, beds the rings in.
That's how we do it here.

That might be how they do it, everyone has there own process and that's totally fine, the Victory manual says for the first 90 miles no prolonged throttle of 1/3 throttle, let it cool every hour of operation and then from 90-300 keep it below 1/2 prolonged throttle, and from 300-500 keep it below 3/4 throttle, and to not let it sit at 1 rpm range for to long, I've only got about 40 miles on it but I'm just going though the gears and coming down, running it a little hard but nothing excessive, letting it warm up to temp, etc.

 

[Motorbikerx]

Sounds ok to me,
I like to run up some hills putting a light load on it, to bed the rings in nice.
Then after 500 change oil again and ride it like I stole it, as they say:angel4:

 

[slickvic]

I broke mine in first 50miles with Penrite 'Running In' oil.
We run em in down under and break in horses.
Then dump it out and ran Penrite Mineral oil for a couple hundred miles, then dumped it and went to a Semi- synthetic, did try full synthetic for a while and it was fine on the street but shifts on the drag strip were getting hung up at around 6000 so I went back to Semi and shifting improved under race conditions.
Yeah I like to bed the engine in on mineral oil, but that's just me, oh the engineers that built the motor agreed too.

Love us old stubborn motor heads.

 

[Kronos]

My only worry is hearing it at idle a lot of valve noise but when I stand the bike up it quiets down alot

 

[Bikesofbrads]

@Kronos Put something under the kickstand to stand the bike more upright during warm up, you may be due for a new ks rubber puck

 

[Motorbikerx]

@Kronos Put something under the kickstand to stand the bike more upright during warm up, you may be due for a new ks rubber puck

Was about to say that
And if the road has a lean as well and I always back in, then I gotta make sure the oil light don't light up.
Best to start em upright really, but I don't always do.
They're a mechanical symphony of noises, loud pipes and a helmet fix most of them

 

[slickvic]

My only worry is hearing it at idle a lot of valve noise but when I stand the bike up it quiets down alot

My bike did that on Victory oil during start up when new. Switched brands to Amsoil and it immediately stopped. After 20k I switched to Spectro when they introduced a 20/40 blend for Victory. Still no issues and an extremely quiet smooth motor. Switch to Spectro it keeps parts lunricated long after shut down.

 

[Bikesofbrads]

Biggest quagmire’s the issue of wanting an oil that’ll cling to parts in the engine to prevent wear at startup, slick ( hehehaha I said slick ) enough so friction is minimal but not so slippery that inhibit our wet clutches from fully grabbing and allowing slippage. Spectro, amsoil, redline, victory & rotella in the semi synthetic flavors what the engineers testing showed to work best in all conditions so WE can better narrow down what works best for OUR bikes in the area we live & ride. Don’t skimp on the filter & remember, depending on filters length, it’ll determine whether your bike takes 4.25 or 4.5 quarts at oil change, is always better to change it before not after the service interval

 

[Kronos]

The puck still has the wear bar with a little underneath and oil light goes away immediately after start up so I know it has pressure

 

[md2420]

Should always start the bike in the upright position and crack the throttle open just a bit. Once running for 20-30 secs, then feel free to set it on the side stand, continue to warm up while you get your gear on.

 

[normthenomad]

Sounds ok to me,
I like to run up some hills putting a light load on it, to bed the rings in nice.
Then after 500 change oil again and ride it like I stole it, as they say:angel4:

It tries my patience but I usually don't flog them until a 1k miles.
After the first 500 I'll wind them up through the gears but avoid any sustained high speeds or taking it up much more than 4000 rpm until i get 1k on the build.

 

[Kronos]

Is there a way to lower the seat height on this bike? I'll have to measure and see what it's at, but it's very tall, on my raider the seat height is apparently 27.3 and the vic is 26.5 but I have to tip toe on the vic and can flat foot on the raider

 

[Cruzie27]

Is there a way to lower the seat height on this bike? I'll have to measure and see what it's at, but it's very tall, on my raider the seat height is apparently 27.3 and the vic is 26.5 but I have to tip toe on the vic and can flat foot on the raider

you can look for Vegas low seat and side covers, or use the shorter rear shock from a "low". I believe all the steel frames went to the "low" configuration in 2010 or so. Ideally a seat or rear shock from a newer steel frame should get you what you want.

 

[normthenomad]

You can have your stock seat narrowed an inch on the sides. That makes a big difference.

 

[Meisen]

Oil pump failure you do not hear from any members ... Seems odd ....

I am going over to my mechanic now too for this!!
Just changed both my chains and tensioners but still is making a razzling sound at idle and low rpm’s.
When oil is getting warmer the razzling noise gets away, and there is oil pressure in the engine but could it maybe be that the oil pump is not working 100%??
As others may have read on my build thread one of my chains got streched 4-5mm, so thats why i changed them.
But now I am wondering if this could be the oil pump maybe.
innputs anyone? Getting tired of changing parts……..

 

[Rollinwind]

At this point I would hook up a oil press gauge and check it at the motor. Have read peeps doing that to confirm oil pump fault. I dont know how to do it. Good question for The Vic Shop repair forum.