"It's been correctly adjusted from delivery by dealer technicians who know what they're doing. Not majic, just correct adjustment by a knowledgeable dealer and their crew." That may be their problem. I know in my area the above don't exsist. I've never had a chirp. But I know at times, with new tires, my belt has been adjusted way too tight once warmed up. I now take mine to small independent shop. That is, when I can't do the work myself.

 

I was fighting with a squeaky belt since my last tire change. The belt kept riding out to the right side of the pulley. Every time that I would adjust it. It would go right back to the right side and squeak. So I finally realized that when I tightened th axle nut the axle moved back and messed up the alignment. So what I did was set the left side of the axle farther forward then it needed to be. So when I tighten the axle nut. The axle move to the spot that I wanted it. It worked perfectly so now the sqeek is gone. Next time I have to set the belt. I'm gonna try tightening the axle with the wrench under the bike instead of above. So that way it pushes the axle forward while tightening.

 

I've never adjusted my CCT belt or even had the bike off the ground. I also would love to see a video on the eccentricities of correctly adjusting the belt to keep it quiet. I have to get the rear tire replaced and none of the Victory dealers within a 150 mile radius have a tire in stock! That amazes me as Randy's Cycle always had a few in stock. A local Honda dealer (Southern Honda Powersports) seems to be the best option at this point. They change Gold Wing tires several times a day, have fresh tires at great prices and don't rape you on installation. Yes, I've been severely spoiled by Randy's being such an awesome local dealer of choice. But riding 650 miles for a tire change seems like a bit if a stretch.

 

I can't beleive so many intentionally put goop, wax or some other such junk on their belt in an attempt to keep it quiet. My 2012 CCT has 20,000 miles on it and has never chirped, sqeeked, squaked or made any such noise. It's been correctly adjusted from delivery by dealer technicians who know what they're doing. Not majic, just correct adjustment by a knowledgeable dealer and their crew. You should never wipe or spray anything on your belt to fight belt noise. Doing so is simply trying to mask a problem, not correct it. Anything wiped on or sprayed on the belt will only attract dust, dirt and accelerate wear of the belt and pully's. In fact, everything from Polaris instructs us to keep the belt clean, not covered in goo.

Since your belt doesn't squeak or chirp you have no idea how annoying this can be. As stated over and over on this site........ If your belt squeaks and it's been adjusted left or right and even centre and run tight and loose with no reprieve from the very annoying noise. Then you will pour what ever that will stop the noise. Now the other option is the one offered to me.........and I said f-that Make an appointment at the dealer. Bring the bike in to the dealer and they will adjust the belt according to the manual with the belt tension gauge. Get someone to pick you up and take you to work. Get a ride back to the dealer to Pi k up the bike.. If it still squeaks............. Make another appointment at the dealer... Take bike to dealer. Get someone to pick you up at the dealer and take you to work. Get a ride back to the dealer to get the bike.. If it still squeaks.......... Make an appointment at the dealer and if it squeaks for the dealer they will ask Polaris if they can replace the pulley. When ever Polaris calls back with the approval ..dealer will order pulley...... Dealer calls and says they have pulley bring bike in.... Take bike to dealer.... Get someone to pick you up and take you to work....... Then get someone to take you to the dealer... Cross fingers and toes and your nuts that it doesn't squeak......... This is not a joke...this Is what my dealer said had to happen. This is what Polaris wants before they will replace the pulley....less the get someone to pick me up...... There is no adjustment that will stop the squeak for most of the people that have it...... Polaris knows this. And will replace the pulley if need be... ps The kicker I was talking to the service mgr about this and most bikes that squeak took 3-5k before they started to squeak...like mine did And After the pulley change ....some of them started to squeak again after 3-5k ...... And like I said ..over the winter I reversed my belt andno more squeak.... And it doesn't matter if I have it tight or loose.....

 

I've never adjusted my CCT belt or even had the bike off the ground. I also would love to see a video on the eccentricities of correctly adjusting the belt to keep it quiet. I have to get the rear tire replaced and none if the Victory dealers within a 150 mile radius have a tire in stock! That amazes me as Randy's Cycle always had a few in stock. A local Hobda dealer (Southern Honda Powerspirts) seems to be the best option at this point. They change Gold Wing tires several times a day, have fresh tires at great prices and don't rape you on installation. Yes, I've been severely spoiled by Randy's being such an awesome local dealer of choice. But riding 650 miles for a tire change seems like a bit if a stretch.

I think most dealers realize there not going to get the big markup since a lot of people buy there tires off the net. So they don't want to stock if it's going to be on the floor for a long time....

 

Rob, the other way a dealer could look at it is to take the 10 or 20 bucks profit on the tire and keep their shop busy mounting them. Paying a guy to sit in the shop waiting for the next customer to need an oil change is also not very profitable. If I buy one off the internet I will probably also use an independent shop to mount it.

 

Rob, the other way a dealer could look at it is to take the 10 or 20 bucks profit on the tire and keep their shop busy mounting them. Paying a guy to sit in the shop waiting for the next customer to need an oil change is also not very profitable. If I buy one off the internet I will probably also use an independent shop to mount it.

I agree but they claim if there is no money in it ... You know the story. I don't understand why they don't take less profit on the tire and make a bit on mounting. Then around here we have dealers (Honda) that want big bucks to mount the tire if you didnt buy it from them. This drives money else where. I find most business around here want big buck or nothing at all. Even the government sets the price of gas. They will not allow competition between stations set the price. Big fear a business might close if they have to compete...

 

I wonder if Witch Doctors has one in production....

WW

 

Or Paul in Canada.


Rob,

I agree that a noisy belt would be a real PITA. So then make the trip once to a known good dealer/technician who knows what they're doing. If the belt is correctly adjusted and it still makes noise, the rear pully could be bad. Many have had those replaced under warranty.
After decades of awful service from most Moto Guzzi dealers it was easy to tell which dealers were awful and which were great. I found with Moto Guzzi and with Victory that the manufacturer has a certain way of doing things. I'm fine with that. The good dealers work the system and get great results for their customers. The bad dealers work over the customer and complain about the manufacturer.

 

Can you use any belt tension gauge? At one time I saw the victory one but can't find it anymore.

 

You can use any gauge as long as it is marked for 10 lbs of deflection.
I use this one
Amazon.com Motion Pro 08-0350 Belt Tension Gauge Automotive
The HD one works as well

 

I've been a car and aircraft mechanic but am knew to working on bikes. I hadn't done any mechanical work in years. But my dealer could never get the belt tension right. Went through a set of rear wheel bearings in short order. So I tried it myself. When I adjusted the belt on the Vegas the washers with the alignment marks had so much back and forth play they were useless for getting the wheel aligned. So I measured the length of the adjuster bolts and found that were the same. I aligned the wheel by counting the threads sticking out the adjuster nut once belt tension was set. Made both sides the same, kept back pressure on the wheel and torqued the axle nuts. So as I said, I'm new to this stuff and I've only done this one time but the alignment was right on when I was done.

 

If you're still under warranty or started complaining about the chirp while still in warranty complain to your dealer until they go to Vic to replace the pulley and possibly belt. After 4 or so attempts to tweak the chirp out of mine Vic ok'd the replacement of both with no further questions - so they KNOW there is a problem with some pulleys.

 

*caution* this comment is a ******* approach, but you may find it useful. after reading this forum and being a bit frustrated myself with the "left side wander" i improvised a simple way to keep the adjustment screws seated for alignment purposes while the axle nut(s) is loose. i used a spring borrowed from my backyard gate held in place with electrical wire putting tension between the left side adjuster and the passenger peg. a screen door spring might also work. you just need something to apply enough tension on the left side, similar to the belt tension on the right. i also didn't have that fancy tensioning tool so i used a jack stand, a 4ft piece of 2x4 and a cinderblock half to apply the 10lb upward force on the belt, which also gave me both hands to measure the difference. the book for my 06 vegas 8ball said it should move 23/64" which is between 5/16 & 3/8 on a tape measure. room temp of coarse.

My brain hurts

 

*caution* this comment is a ******* approach, but you may find it useful. after reading this forum and being a bit frustrated myself with the "left side wander" i improvised a simple way to keep the adjustment screws seated for alignment purposes while the axle nut(s) is loose. i used a spring borrowed from my backyard gate held in place with electrical wire putting tension between the left side adjuster and the passenger peg. a screen door spring might also work. you just need something to apply enough tension on the left side, similar to the belt tension on the right. i also didn't have that fancy tensioning tool so i used a jack stand, a 4ft piece of 2x4 and a cinderblock half to apply the 10lb upward force on the belt, which also gave me both hands to measure the difference. the book for my 06 vegas 8ball said it should move 23/64" which is between 5/16 & 3/8 on a tape measure. room temp of coarse.

First off 4 year old post, secondly you know if you tighten the axel nut just a little bit before you tighten the adjusters it's stays much better..
I tension the belt side first, then run the bike and set alignment with left adjuster(while spinning).. then torque down the axel...

Squeaking belt can be dirt too, I wash my belt with Dawn, water and dollar store scrub brushes(white bristled with a decent length handle...) I'll lift bike, rotate tire and scrub, then rinse with hose... Just don't kill your bearings....

 

Yeah there's lots of old threads being resurrected lately!

 

 

old threads but new owners!!! tire changing is NOT that hard once the bead is broke + there are lots of helpful you-tubes about it. so if you have the time + like to save 50 to a 100 bucks or even more if you buy tyres at the stealers its a good thing to learn. as far as the belt theres instructions in the service manual, trial + error works111

 

I am surprised no one has repeated the belt adjustment procedure from the Victory shop manual. I purchased the shop manual for my 2015 Vegas when I purchased the bike new. The belt adjustment procedure in the shop manual is different than the little manual you get with the bike(at least mine is). I am sure the shop manual procedure is correct since the procedure includes the wheel alignment procedure not included in the manual I got with the bike. Steps 5., 6. and 7. are not included in the manual I got with the bike. I will repeat the complete procedure in hopes that it will help but remember that this is for a Vegas although I would suspect the procedure would the be the same for most all bikes. I know that the tension settings vary with the bike models and perhaps years. Here goes:

1. The belt must be at room temperature and dry.
2. The tire must be off the ground.
3. Using a belt tensioning gage(buy online) push up vertically at mid length on the belt with this gage until ten pounds is read on the plunger. Using a ruler or tape measure note how far the belt is deflected upward from the rest position until ten pounds is applied. This takes time to set up a system that works for you.
4. Loosen the axle nut and use the tensioners on the left and right swing arms to tension the belt to the prescribed deflection(more on this later) for your bike at ten pounds on the belt tensioner. The manual recommends checking the deflection at four equal distant points on the belt by noting the rotation of the tire valve stem to find any tight point. Make the final adjustment at the tight point if you have one(I didn't have any). The best way to go through this procedure to get to the proper tension is to start with the marks on the left and right adjustment plates on the face of the swing arms in the same position. Maintain the marks in the same position on each side and keep adjusting the adjustment nuts as necessary to get the prescribed tension(belt deflection at 10 lbs.). While making these adjustments make sure the adjustment nuts are against the face on the swing arms. Tap the axle as necessary to assure this.
5. Once the correct tension is set the rear axle alignment is made by ONLY using the LEFT belt tensioner. as necessary.
6. Rotate the wheel backward. Tighten the left wheel adjuster until the belt begins to track to the right(outboard) sprocket flange during backward wheel rotation. If the belt tracks on the right sprocket flange to start I loosen the left adjuster nut until the belt tracks to the inboard flange. I then tighten this adjuster until the belt begins to track toward the outboard flange all the while rotating the wheel backward.
7. Rotate the wheel forward while loosening the left adjuster nut until the belt just begins to track toward the left(inside) sprocket flange. Make sure the adjuster nut is against the face of the swing arm as you loosen it. Tap the axel nut as necessary.
8. Tighten the axel nut.

It takes time to do it all correctly. However I suspect that exact precision is not necessary. Here is why I think this is so. The belt ran just fine from the factory. It was recommended that after break in the belt tension be checked. When I checked it it was approx. 1/2" deflection which is too loose according to the manual figure of 1/4" for my bike. I set it to this tension. As soon as I took a ride I immediately noticed a grinding noise in the drive train which was not acceptable. I reset the belt tension to approx. 1/2" and the noise disappeared. I will stick with the 1/2" deflection for my bike.

A little trick to make this easier. On my bike there is a plastic plate in front of the belt where the tensioner is placed. This plate has a vertical line of recessed dots on it where the tensioner sets. Once I set the belt at the proper deflection I observed where the bottom belt face was in relation to these dots. Now I only have to look at where the belt face sets in relation to these dots to assure proper deflection(tension). Setting up a ruler or tape measure is a pain in the butt and hard to observe.

Hope this helps!

 

lots of typing for many!!! my shop manual i bought just after my 13 hammer says the same, but i use the hammer S spec since adding a longer penske shock similar to the S model not offered in the US for a while, but still sold in european countries.

 

I've been working on not just the belt tension but the alignment now for a couple weeks, every morning, small changes. I had the belt too tight, I heard/felt it, so I loosened it to approximately the proper deflection. But my issue is the chirping. I made 3 small changes today and I'm using a depth gauge to keep my sanity, from the nut to the end of the stud. By making them the same to start, I had an idea, it would be close. The hardware isn't made with tight specs so there may be differences in stud length but that's not the point, I needed a starting point so I set them both at 14.97mm. Once I did this, I rotated the wheel forward and backward and it did track as the manual suggests. So I torqued everything back down and checked again, everything was good. Took it for a test drive and what I see/hear is this: During acceleration, the belt moves to the outside of the pulley and starts chirping. When I pull in the clutch it seems to stay there. If I close the throttle, the belt moves to the inside. I surmise this is because during acceleration, the transmission is pushing the wheel and during deceleration, the wheel is pushing the transmission. I get it, makes sense in my head.

I am watching as I do this. I see that the pulley isn't true, it's got a bit of movement. Given this information, I can assume the belt would move left and right slightly during normal operating, not really concerned. But the amount of movement during open throttle acceleration and closed throttle deceleration is pretty severe, and it's immediate. I hate the chirping, at 43k it's gotten to the point I almost don't want to ride. I'm frustrated because I make small incremental changes and it either doesn't seem to affect it or it affects it in an extreme way. Could it be something other than simple alignment and/or pulley out of true?

I think my next step would be replacing the pulley and if I do that, I'll replace the belt. And if I have to remove the exhaust to get to the passenger peg, I'll probably pull the heat shield and see if I can get them to line up better. But holy **** pulleys are expensive. I won't go with OEM cast, I'll get aftermarket Billet or something, but I might need to sell a testicle or 2.

On a side note, what if I take the pulley off and rotate it 90 degrees? Maybe it'll fix the problem then. (I hope you realize I'm joking here)

 

I've been working on not just the belt tension but the alignment now for a couple weeks, every morning, small changes. I had the belt too tight, I heard/felt it, so I loosened it to approximately the proper deflection. But my issue is the chirping. I made 3 small changes today and I'm using a depth gauge to keep my sanity, from the nut to the end of the stud. By making them the same to start, I had an idea, it would be close. The hardware isn't made with tight specs so there may be differences in stud length but that's not the point, I needed a starting point so I set them both at 14.97mm. Once I did this, I rotated the wheel forward and backward and it did track as the manual suggests. So I torqued everything back down and checked again, everything was good. Took it for a test drive and what I see/hear is this: During acceleration, the belt moves to the outside of the pulley and starts chirping. When I pull in the clutch it seems to stay there. If I close the throttle, the belt moves to the inside. I surmise this is because during acceleration, the transmission is pushing the wheel and during deceleration, the wheel is pushing the transmission. I get it, makes sense in my head.

I am watching as I do this. I see that the pulley isn't true, it's got a bit of movement. Given this information, I can assume the belt would move left and right slightly during normal operating, not really concerned. But the amount of movement during open throttle acceleration and closed throttle deceleration is pretty severe, and it's immediate. I hate the chirping, at 43k it's gotten to the point I almost don't want to ride. I'm frustrated because I make small incremental changes and it either doesn't seem to affect it or it affects it in an extreme way. Could it be something other than simple alignment and/or pulley out of true?

I think my next step would be replacing the pulley and if I do that, I'll replace the belt. And if I have to remove the exhaust to get to the passenger peg, I'll probably pull the heat shield and see if I can get them to line up better. But holy **** pulleys are expensive. I won't go with OEM cast, I'll get aftermarket Billet or something, but I might need to sell a testicle or 2.

On a side note, what if I take the pulley off and rotate it 90 degrees? Maybe it'll fix the problem then. (I hope you realize I'm joking here)

Have you washed with Dawn yet?
Rotating the pulley won't do much, unless the wheel and pulley are untrue in different areas....

I went through all the same ****, tension and alignment should take less than 30 mins, oil was getting on my belt from the primary seal, the oil was causing the belt to cut the rear pulley, after 4 years of squealing the rear pulley was garbage....

Now I can tension and alignment the belt in minutes....

 

belts can surely pick up road dirt a oil + those like myself that stay ayay from pressure washing may benefit from scrubbing the belt or just powerwash the lower parts of the bike including the belt while staying away from areas that pressure washing can cause issues. i assume the OP is suggesting a scrubbing with dawn dish detergent as its a good oil + grease remover along with common dirt.

 

@nickr914 @rodhotter I actually wash my belt frequently, I use a medium bristle toothbrush and alternate between Simple Green and dish soap then rinse it off, I don't use a hose to rinse it, I use a microfiber towel soaked in water instead. It has worked in the past but lately, not at all. It's bouncing off the inside or outside of the pulley which is what's causing the chirping sound. I've gotten pretty good about quickly making adjustments, lift it, pull the shock bolt, loosen the axle nut, adjust screws, torque axle nut, torque adjustment screws, replace shock bolt, drop the lift. I can make an adjustment in about 7-10 minutes then test it for 1/4 mile or so. I'll know by the time I exit the driveway if it's chirping so I don't have to go far. Minor adjustment while it's warm shouldn't cause any issues either as far as alignment. With tension, I would do it once in the AM then wait til the next day if it's not right. I think the pulley is **** anyway, but I can't afford a new one at this time so might just have to deal with it. I'll be doing a major teardown over this coming winter anyway, new tires, dynabeads and axle bearings, steering stem bearings, fork oil, etc. and if I'm lucky and can get my hands on a new pulley, I'll just replace the belt and pulley at the same time.

 

if i had to pay full boat for a pulley it would prolly be an underdrive setup

 

I've been fighting with belt tracking for a while now and the bike does make an odd noise while riding. I'm not sure if it's belt chirp or something else making the noise. Does anyone have a sound bite of belt chirp?

P.S. The Victory wheel adjusters suck.

 

A chirp is what it sounds like, a chirp.... Grinding, the belt is too tight..
Squealing, pulley and or belt is shot...
P.S. my adjusters on both bikes are dead on.

@nickr914 @rodhotter I actually wash my belt frequently, I use a medium bristle toothbrush and alternate between Simple Green and dish soap then rinse it off, I don't use a hose to rinse it, I use a microfiber towel soaked in water instead. It has worked in the past but lately, not at all. It's bouncing off the inside or outside of the pulley which is what's causing the chirping sound. I've gotten pretty good about quickly making adjustments, lift it, pull the shock bolt, loosen the axle nut, adjust screws, torque axle nut, torque adjustment screws, replace shock bolt, drop the lift. I can make an adjustment in about 7-10 minutes then test it for 1/4 mile or so. I'll know by the time I exit the driveway if it's chirping so I don't have to go far. Minor adjustment while it's warm shouldn't cause any issues either as far as alignment. With tension, I would do it once in the AM then wait til the next day if it's not right. I think the pulley is **** anyway, but I can't afford a new one at this time so might just have to deal with it. I'll be doing a major teardown over this coming winter anyway, new tires, dynabeads and axle bearings, steering stem bearings, fork oil, etc. and if I'm lucky and can get my hands on a new pulley, I'll just replace the belt and pulley at the same time.

Why are you pulling shock bolt?
How many mm or inches deflection are you giving it?

 

@PDXLaserGazer also, may want to take belt cover off to see if the belt is slapping the cover...