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jjpilot

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So...I've seen thoughts on the air coming through the forks contributing to buffeting.

While cleaning bike the other day, noticed the threaded bosses under the fork.

Then noticed a 6"×12" piece of aluminum on my workbench.

Then my A.D.D. kicked in!!!

15 minutes later, I had to run to the hardware store to get 6mm fine screws.

This is what I came up with.

Rode 20+ miles. Some into 30mph winds.

Holy Crap!!!!!

My glasses didn't dance, and try to go up my face like normal. Felt NO wind into my chest either.

More testing to come, and what I think will be a better deflector.

Can't believe that no one has tried something like this before, as I can definitely tell that more air is being pushed into the engine. Felt more heat on my shin area versus before. Will have to lead to a cooler engine besides the buffet improvement.

Combine this with some small fork lowers and we may have something big........!
Image
Image
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
You can see the screws in this one.
 

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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Good question.
No idea.
Course it was only 20 miles. Still hauling ass.
More importantly the buffeting was WAY down. And if it helps cool down the engine. ..

I do have my intake strip removed.

Always wondered why they designed the intake where they put it.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Please look closer guys.

There are two 6mm bolts holding the stiff aluminum under rhe middle of the fork. That is what started me thinking about this, when I saw the two threaded holes there.

The zip ties were an afterthought.

Yesterday I shortened it a little, by bending the bottom 3/4" back on itself. Still no air coming over tank from there.

Rode about 50 miles yesterday.

Guys, I can't believe the effect this has. Smoother air, and can tell more air is getting forced into the engine. Course that means warmer shins!!!

Needs some tweaking, but I think this way is worth exploring. I've got an idea for a slightly different version.

Just remember where you saw it first!!!
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Thanks. Think the "improved " one will look/work better.

As to heat issues, I think more air is getting forced into the engine and oil cooler. Probably running cooler.

Maybe put my analytical mind, and infrared thermometer to work.!!!

More down the road.......
 
Discussion starter · #21 · (Edited)
Don't know about the $$$. But....

My first is .025 aluminum. Really pretty thin.

I'm thinking about 1/16th aluminum .0625.
Using about 1" long spacers between the fork and deflector, which will then be below/in front of the brake lines, bending up to go behind the lower part of the fairing in the front. I'm thinking that it will only need to curl dwn 2 inches in the back, staying clear in front of the brake lines, and will be the full width of the forks. Thinking that it will look pretty clean!

Stay tuned!
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
So a couple of hundred miles now with it.
Very please. Hell, dont know if I need that speaker uograde now!!! Can hear it clearer, for sure.

Yesterday I leaned forward to see if it was deflecting at high speed (90 mph plus), sure enough it is. But still was keeping the upflow wind under control.

Will be making the new thicker one next week.

might make an extra or two.....
 
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Discussion starter · #24 ·
I am not going to say this is a complete solution. But.....

I was going to get the default fork deflectors folks have used. Probably not now.

Let me get the wider one done and tried out with the thicker metal, and I will probably let a couple of you lunatics try it, and then we will talk!...........

Guess I need a name for it.....

CEFAD???
CEntral Fork Air Deflector

STFB
Stop The Fu#&ING Buffeting!
 
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
I like it!!!

If it works well for everyone, that just might work!
 
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Discussion starter · #37 ·
I did not notice a thing. Between the angled down headlight, and angled up windshield, which I'm betting wins the downforce battle, I don't see it able to have much effects on handling.

As has been said, I think the aerodynamics of the fairing are about as good as a sheet of plywood, or an F4 phantom.

It's a shame they (Vic) don't spend a few bucks and put this into a wind tunnel, and cut a couple of aerospace engineers loose on it.

Nothing new on it yet. Will keep you all posted.

Jaak - pm coming your way later.
 
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Discussion starter · #40 ·
Just now thought this.

I do not know for sure that all your bikes have the two threaded holes up under the fork. I know MY 2016 does, so I guess first thing is for everyone to look under your fork, between the brake cables and see if they're there.
They are 6mm fine thread screws.

Have a look!
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
Yeah, loosing some air into our hidden intake could have a little effect, who knows.

If we loose a little performance, I think most would gladly do that for a cooler running, less buffetty bike.

Will Google the HD thing
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
Cool.
So it looks like they all have them a few years back a bit.

I did a quick run with it off. Can't believe how much it helps. A good crosswind does get a little buffeting through still.

I am curious about effects on the cooling of the motor, and if there will be a loss of performance due to maybe less air making it to the intake area under the tank. Who knows.

The Bad-Ass I will try next will use spacers to move the deflector down about an inch, which will have it below/covering the brake lines. Pretty excited to make it and share it with you all.

Next week.
Promise! !!
Jeff
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
I'm quite sure that cooling will be better.
How could it not be, forcing more air down into the oil cooler and motor area.

More worried (well not me!!!) about a loss of air into the funky air intake area of our cross bikes.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Hmm ok.

At the front side of the fork is the brake line manifold, with two screws in it.

Back two empty bosses are the one I'm using. So you think bikes without ABS may have something in them? Can't see anything in the manual I have using them.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
There ya go. Awesome.

Or maybe not, for those without ABS.

I've got the 2013 manual from online here, that's why I didn't see it.
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
Yeah.
where you have the the splitter in back, on the non abs, are the holes that im using.

On the abs bikes their manifold uses the front holes.

I believe theres a guy in my town with a non abs bike. Ill get a closer look at it. Might be possible to still use those two bosses with longer screws and 1/2" or so spacers. Or maybe a couple bends to use the front holes.....maybe?!!! Hmmmm, another idea!!!!!

I did get some sheets, thanks Jaxkxx!!!

Gonna cut and bend them over the weekend.

will let you know.....
 
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Discussion starter · #61 ·
May need to come down/be longer a bit.
We shall see.
 
Discussion starter · #65 ·
Notice how high and far back this is, and the angle.
Glad you pointed that out.

Mine will clear full travel, plus this thin aluminum zip tied to brake lines actually flexes up more.

Will be making a slightly different one here shortly, and plan to basically follow the curve of the chin fairing behind it.. it will be 1/16" aluminum (14gauge?), and not need to be zipped to the brakeline.
 

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Discussion starter · #67 ·
Next week.
For now only the ones with ABS.

I need to figure out the spacer length needed to go over the brake lines on ours with abs for a version that will work with both.

Got six sheets of metal.

Who wants to help with my R & D???

Shipping plus a couple of bucks.
Let me know
Jeff
 
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