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This SAE60 oil is marked with Jaso/MA2 for wet clutch, so I dont think thats is going to be a problem, det biggest concern here is the coldstart as norm said…….
Thats why I was wondering if anyone has tried this oil at all :geek:
If you have to use Amsoil and want to try the 60 weight then go with the 15/60 made for Indian and Victory. Good luck. Watch Rylans video on page 1. Lots of good info there.
 
Checking with Noe Martinez on n the 15/60 oil It is made for Octane and Indian Scout originally and now is the only recommended weight for Power plus engines. It is full synthetic from Indian ( LubeTech ) which also makes Mobil 1. Amsoil makes this blend as well and is another great choice for the PP motors. I like that Indian only recommends full synthetic 15/60 for their Power plus motors. Takes all the guess work out.

Interesting catch on Rylan’s Clutch video from an earlier post that he also suggests staying away from diesel oils as well. It’s all about the additive package. Another note is that he as a Victory mechanic simply keeps it simple and recommends Vic oil or a comparable semi synthetic Jaso ma / ma2 wet clutch oil to simply keep controversy out of the discussion of a failed clutch.

So in my infinite wisdom and complete understanding…… The likely hood of a failed clutch using Vic oil or a comparable wet clutch semi synthetic oil causing a slippage issue is not likely. It’s more to the side of mis adjustment or abuse or simply wear. Newer low mileage bikes may fair well with a couple different choices at first but I would find the one that works and stick with it. To play Russian roulette with different oil brands especially on a high mileage bikes is just that.
This is the reason when asked of one of our Victory Gurus you will always get the same answer. Semi synthetic …… keep it in spec and keep it clean.
Loyd Greer once stated …. “ Victory oil ….. why pop the top off anything else “ ?

So in my opinion since Victory oil has gone up so much in price ……many switch for that reason alone. All concerns go out the window when $$ become the factor over the quality of what you have always used and has worked.
I get that ……. But if you ride a Victory like my friend Cowboy who has clocked 200k within 3years from cross country riding and you change your oil every 2500 miles religiously ? Then a new brand of oil readily available on the open road is an understood factor in switching. Actevo 10/40 or 20/50 semi synthetic has served him well and is available at most auto parts stores and Walmarts around the country where he rides ! At $6.67 a quart ?
I say this makes the most sense if $$ are the primary concern.

😎
 
My two centavos.

If Lucas motorcycle oil was good enough for Depot Picker to ride his XC 180k miles then it's good enough for my Vic's. It was just on sale last week for Amazon Prime days at $52 for a 6 pack. Naturally I picked up one even though I already had one 6 pack in stock. A while back I noticed someone had some Wix oil filters for sale on FB that were compatible with Vic's. Fifteen for $20 so I definitely jumped on that deal. I'm set for life on filters now.
 
My two centavos.

If Lucas motorcycle oil was good enough for Depot Picker to ride his XC 180k miles then it's good enough for my Vic's. It was just on sale last week for Amazon Prime days at $52 for a 6 pack. Naturally I picked up one even though I already had one 6 pack in stock. A while back I noticed someone had some Wix oil filters for sale on FB that were compatible with Vic's. Fifteen for $20 so I definitely jumped on that deal. I'm set for life on filters now.
A lot of riders use Lucas semi syn oil. Scott at Conquest Customs also used it. He said it was 3000 mile oil at best and then he noticed in his Vic’s that the oil lost viscosity by then. Evident by noise and clunky shifting. Hey if it works then it works. For what you’re spending it makes sense. Scott has since found Spectro 20/40 and switched to that as his house brand. As did Noe. Both of which got me out of using Amsoil and into the semisynthetic Spectro. Which works perfectly for me.
Thanks for sharing.
 
A lot of riders use Lucas semi syn oil. Scott at Conquest Customs also used it. He said it was 3000 mile oil at best and then he noticed in his Vic’s that the oil lost viscosity by then. Evident by noise and clunky shifting. Hey if it works then it works. For what you’re spending it makes sense. Scott has since found Spectro 20/40 and switched to that as his house brand. As did Noe. Both of which got me out of using Amsoil and into the semisynthetic Spectro. Which works perfectly for me.
Thanks for sharing.
Good info. Thanks! I change my oil right around 3k miles on my bikes and 5k on my 4 wheeled vehicles even if I don't need to. Oil is cheap compared to the time and money spent on rebuilds.
 
Yes , I spend between $600 and $800 a year on oil that's a fifty cent per day operating cost that I'm happy to pay to preserve my engine/transmission.
I rode several decades on Ironhead Sportsters, Pans and Shovels.
The oil change interval on those bikes was 1K miles. Did that religiously and mine did better than almost anyone else that I rode with.
Owned some Evos and an FXDX twin cam. They went to 3k mies then 5k but I could never bring myself to go that long. Along about 1500 I'd start getting antsy but finally got to the point I could make it to 2k before changing it.
Now with having converted to Victory I can get to 2500 before I can't stand it and have to change it.
Still using Polaris/Victory oil.
Bear in mind that I'm in Southern Az and ride rather aggressively and it's hot and very dusty so that has a direct bearing on the frequency of servicing the oil and air filter.
Find an oil that works for you and stick with it.
 
Hey for you guys using Victory oil ….. Indian 20/40 is the same oil. Both Lubetech brands.
My friends running the Walmart priced Actevo semi synthetic are going 2500 to 3k max as well. At $6 and some change a quart ? Sure
 
For anyone interested, here's a link to the JASO MA-2 Lucas oil I and DP talked about. It's back up to $64 now but I'd buy it again. I'd have no worries taking it to 5k miles on a trip but my riding tends to be short day hops these days with the occasional full day ride. Notice it's made for wet clutches.

 
Interesting catch on Rylan’s Clutch video from an earlier post that he also suggests staying away from diesel oils as well. It’s all about the additive package. Another note is that he as a Victory mechanic simply keeps it simple and recommends Vic oil or a comparable semi synthetic Jaso ma / ma2 wet clutch oil to simply keep controversy out of the discussion of a failed clutch.

…… The likely hood of a failed clutch using Vic oil or a comparable wet clutch semi synthetic oil causing a slippage issue is not likely. It’s more to the side of mis adjustment or abuse or simply wear. Newer low mileage bikes may fair well with a couple different choices at first but I would find the one that works and stick with it. To play Russian roulette with different oil brands especially on a high mileage bikes is just that.
This is the reason when asked of one of our Victory Gurus you will always get the same answer. Semi synthetic …… keep it in spec and keep it clean.
Loyd Greer once stated …. “ Victory oil ….. why pop the top off anything else?"

100% SEMI SYNTHETIC. I don't care who uses, used or suggests a full synthetic - Nope, no way, not worth the risk, it's certainly not going in any 106" Victory motorcycle I own.

I very likely would not buy a used 106" Victory motorcycle knowing the previous rider used an oil outside of my semi synthetic JASO-MA2 comfort zone either.
 
100% SEMI SYNTHETIC. I don't care who uses, used or suggests a full synthetic - Nope, no way, not worth the risk, it's certainly not going in any 106" Victory motorcycle I own.

I very likely would not buy a used 106" Victory motorcycle knowing the previous rider used an oil outside of my semi synthetic JASO-MA2 comfort zone either.
Actually I would. Knowing the motor got full synthetic oil changes can mean less wear on hard parts. Better cooling and better lubrication for bearings. As far as the clutch goes ? That’s the easy part to fix but you can bet my new OEM clutch will get soaked by n semi synthetic. If Alto is back in the game then I would likely stick with what I always use or what ever full synthetic the previous owner used if it’s to my liking. A conversation with the Owner of Alto back when I was ordering my clutch from them he stated you can use full synthetic with his clutch as long as it’s Jaso ma /ma2. My Alto clutch grabs hard and is just fine with semisynthetic oil as is my motor. Same oil every 3000 miles.
 
If you have to use Amsoil and want to try the 60 weight then go with the 15/60 made for Indian and Victory. Good luck. Watch Rylans video on page 1. Lots of good info there.
Every single time I started using Amsoil (20/40, 20/50,15/50, and 15/60) in a 106, the engine started making piston slap sounds almost immediately (within a few hundred miles and usually after long freeway hauls). The last one I tried, I immediately switched back to T6, and the noise went away.

Those were attempts on bikes with anywhere from 8kmi to 60kmi wear and tear. All XCTs. I use Amsoil in almost everything else I own, but I won't put it back in any 106s. I would be willing to try Redline, Spectro, or Royal Purple if I felt the desire to change brands.

Zero of those bikes developed clutch slippage.
 
Every single time I started using Amsoil (20/40, 20/50,15/50, and 15/60) in a 106, the engine started making piston slap sounds almost immediately (within a few hundred miles and usually after long freeway hauls). The last one I tried, I immediately switched back to T6, and the noise went away.

Those were attempts on bikes with anywhere from 8kmi to 60kmi wear and tear. All XCTs. I use Amsoil in almost everything else I own, but I won't put it back in any 106s. I would be willing to try Redline, Spectro, or Royal Purple if I felt the desire to change brands.

Zero of those bikes developed clutch slippage.
What can I say. What’s the history of the bikes. How many different oils have been introduced to these bikes ? Piston slap ? What oil can actually cause that ? Let’s re phrase….. what Jaso MA2 wet clutch oil can cause that ? Is victory that much different internally than other wet clutch bikes. Sure Honda’s and Kawasaki are liquid cooled but dam …. It’s just oil ? Maybe too many different choices and changes. IDK
 
What can I say. What’s the history of the bikes. How many different oils have been introduced to these bikes ? Piston slap ? What oil can actually cause that ? Let’s re phrase….. what Jaso MA2 wet clutch oil can cause that ? Is victory that much different internally than other wet clutch bikes. Sure Honda’s and Kawasaki are liquid cooled but dam …. It’s just oil ? Maybe too many different choices and changes. IDK
I'm not asking you to say anything, really. That's just my experience with several 106 engines and any applicable oil from Amsoil. I was so sure it was not the oil, that I kept trying, but the consistency of results convinced me there was an issue, and I don't really need to know what the issue is, just that I don't want to put Amsoil in any of my 106s again. Yes, piston slap; my comment wasn't about clutches.
 
I'm not asking you to say anything, really. That's just my experience with several 106 engines and any applicable oil from Amsoil. I was so sure it was not the oil, that I kept trying, but the consistency of results convinced me there was an issue, and I don't really need to know what the issue is, just that I don't want to put Amsoil in any of my 106s again. Yes, piston slap; my comment wasn't about clutches.
Well if the T6 makes it disappear then there is something in the T6 that prevents piston slap.
Im sure Amsoil R&D team would love to hear of this situation with your bikes. Rotella T6 is a good oil as is Amsoil evident by your usage in other vehicles.

I certainly don’t mean to insult and steer towards an oil debate but piston slap is nothing more than wear in the cylinder bore caused by excessive clearance between the cylinder and the piston bore. Usually this happens when the engine is cold and then disappears after warm up and allowing the internals to expand from heat. Air cooled motors can suffer from this more than liquid cooled motors obviously due to the cooling characteristics of the front and rear cylinder placement. If 15/60 didn’t calm it down and your still experiencing this after warm up and riding as you in all of your Vic’s. Then Rotella T6 has something in it that I would be interested in.

I too have a little piston slap on my 2011 XC as noted by Kevin X when he rode my bike trying to figure out a noise the eventually ended up being a blown cylinder gasket caused by a stripped cylinder bolt in the block.( Another story for another time.)
Ever since the repair the sound I hear ( a slight knock ) when cold is only there at warm up.
My 11 has almost 60k on it and has new piston rings, timing chain, and tensioners. for the life of me I couldn’t identify this slight knock at cold so Kevin’s diagnosis by ear is all I have.

in your case and in having this happen to all the Vic’s you’ve owned has me thinking of something else maybe fuel related ? Timing issue ? How is it possible all your bikes suffered the same issue. Maybe all air cooled twins have this issue and some get it more than others using Amsoil. T6 is also full synthetic. Definitely a different additive package which includes additives for diesel engines.
I can see why our Victory Gurus shy away from recommending full synthetic oils. Not because of how good they are or not but because of eliminating that part of the diagnosis in a conversation if a problem occurs.
 
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Discussion starter · #75 ·
If you have to use Amsoil and want to try the 60 weight then go with the 15/60 made for Indian and Victory. Good luck. Watch Rylans video on page 1. Lots of good info there.
Tried this now after running with the 60w Oil, works just great and actually less razzling sound from the timing chains and valves compared to the semi synthetic oil so I wondering of just sticking to this oil for now.
 
Tried this now after running with the 60w Oil, works just great and actually less razzling sound from the timing chains and valves compared to the semi synthetic oil so I wondering of just sticking to this oil for now.
Wondering how the oil pressure is with the 15/60 in there. I noticed that you have 505 cams for a big bore 116 ? Who chose these cams ?
 
SPECTRO GOLDEN M/C SEMI- SYN 4T 20W40 1 LT L.SG424 $14.39 per liter - no tax and free shipping!

 
Discussion starter · #79 ·
Wondering how the oil pressure is with the 15/60 in there. I noticed that you have 505 cams for a big bore 116 ? Who chose these cams ?
I have been wondering myself also, all the heat problems are now gone due to new regulator but my engine really liked the 60w Amsoil and this 15-60, everything runs just great and no problem at all with the clutch.

Had the 501 cams at first but then changed to 505`s after a chat with Rylan and I am very happy now with the performance of the bike on every spectre.
Also have a smaller pulley on front, new bike!! Really good:)
Also rally happy with the Tri-Ovals, perfekt sound :winner:
 
I have been wondering myself also, all the heat problems are now gone due to new regulator but my engine really liked the 60w Amsoil and this 15-60, everything runs just great and no problem at all with the clutch.

Had the 501 cams at first but then changed to 505`s after a chat with Rylan and I am very happy now with the performance of the bike on every spectre.
Also have a smaller pulley on front, new bike!! Really good:)
Also rally happy with the Tri-Ovals, perfekt sound :winner:
I’m impressed that the 505 cams serve a BB motor well. It is a Big bore yes ? I’m going by your signature. I have 505 cams in my X1 and 501 cams in my XC. Due to the open exhaust in my X1 the 505 cams were recommended by Kevin X. I never thought they would be a choice for a BB
 
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