[Meisen]

Think I will try to take out right cat first as mentioned on the other post and just leave the left inside

 

[Meisen]

https://www.thevog.net/threads/removing-right-side-cat.174438/

 

[Meisen]

Small update, was still not happy with the heat reduction the cat removal gave me so since I`m not always a good listener, i had 4quartz of this SAE60 oil in my shelf, and this saturday I was going to a rally a little up north so ran the bike/engine hot and poor out all the Bell Ray 20-50 Semi.Synt oil and changed it.
Heard imediatlly a different sound in the engine, and not od bad kind.
Just took it for a spin in the Yard outside the clubhouse and all razzling noise from valves and timing chains was almost gone.
Went to the rally at Saturday and drove the bike almost 500km(300miles) up and home again, and
on the way home at Saturday night there was almost no trafic so I pushed the bike really hard.
When I got home there was not a single razzlesound from engine ore timingchains and engine heat alsowas reduced a lot.
Checked the oil level also, still at the same mark, clutch is working perfect.......so I can only speak for my self but atm this was what my engine needed, just hoping now I will get time to travel to the tunes this summer to check the numbers in the dyno again after the rightside cat delete, and now with an engine without razzking sounds.

So for me, my bike and Norway I can only say the Amsoil SAE60 was the perfect match

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

In actuality you’re muffling the sounds of an internal combustion motor by a way too thick oil. Nothing in the Victory 106” engine was designed to run a straight weight 60 oil. Not the oil pump nor any oil passage. Period.

If you ran 100% STP Oil Treatment it would be even quieter and do even more damage over time.

Your heat issue is due to your insistence of running the CCT lowers in hot and humid temperatures. If you removed them, you’d immediately realize you can run the proper oil and not have a heat issue. Especially after removing the right cat.

 

[Meisen]

We will just have to see then if the engine blows, everything runs so smooth that i cant imagine why…….but many days left of the season to blow the engine, gasckets ect because of wrong oil use
I removed the fairings with teh Bell Ray oil and did not feel there was much difference but did not test it for a long run either.

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

You didn’t notice a heat difference with or without having the CCT lower fairings installed?

That would truly be amazing to the point of being unbelievable. Remember, my CCT lowers are typically in my attic at anything over 40F. I love my victory forged bars instead. For form, function and temperature control.

 

[Meisen]

I didnt say nothing but not very much of a differance.
Had a nive trip yesterday to for about 100miles, runs smoother than ever before........so if could go back in time I would have used this oil from the start with the BB kit
I have absolutely no reason to lie about this, but if it is as you say the Victory engines are NOT designed for straigt weight 60 oil, i think I would start having problems allready instead of the engine running smoother and all razzling from valves and chains are gone?
Im not saying that maybe there not designed for thick oil but this oil works, and I cant think that Amsoil would have Victory on the list for this oil if it should not work?
I have almost 500miles now with the SAE60 oil in the bike

Eiterway, this works just fine here........for now

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

Why not try straight 80W then?

Maybe an oil mix of 50% 60W and 50% STP Oil Treatment.

I would definitely not buy a used vehicle from you.

But I hope it all works out for you.

 

[Meisen]

I dont know what straight actually meens, but the SAE60 is Fully Synthetic oil, if you mean straight is mineral oil?
My english is not perfect and spes with technical terms.
But why so angry over that this oil works just fine?
At least for now

I dont think you would come all the way to Norway to buy a used vehicle either

 

[parker3]

Amsoil makes SAE 60 oil as well as 15W-60, the 15W-60 is Indian and Victory formula. SAE60 is Harley formula.

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

Straight weight means it maintains its viscosity cold or hot.
Multi viscosity, like the correct oil rating of 20w-40, means it flows like a 20 weight (thin) when cold: a very good thing. And maintains a 40 weight rating when fully up to temperature. Also very good.

As I previously posted. Nothing in the 106” oil cooling and lubrication system design is intended for a straight 60 weight oil. Not when the engine is cold or when it’s hot. 60 weight is simply too thick for the design parameters of the air and oil cooled Victory 106” motor.

It quiets the engine internals because the oil is simply way too thick. The 60 weight also won’t flow worth a darn when the engine is cold. You’re simply wearing out your motor prematurely by using a straight 60 weight oil. Insufficient lubrication cold to hot.

 

[normthenomad]

I still think it's in the tune. There are other people here running the big bore with no complaints about overheating.
60 weight for Harleys was designed for the older bikes with iron cylinders and/or iron heads.
Clearances and heat were way different. That and tne oiling systems are way different on H-D.
High volume low pressure and a dry sump.
Vics are high pressure wet sump.
But, if it seems to help you then best of luck.

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

Yup, the tune could have too much ignition advance and/or not synced correctly between cylinders.

More power has been the goal and that often comes at the added cost of more (too much) heat.

@normthenomad is of course 100% correct. There are too many big bore Victory bikes riding around without a heat issue.

Especially since even temporarily removing the CCT heat retaining lowers didn’t see much reduction in felt heat on the rider.

 

[normthenomad]

Just hard for me to get my head around the crank splashing around in 60wt. That's got to create a lot of drag.
That and 60wt holds heat longer than a multi viscosity oil, being a wet sump system on Vics it would tend to retain heat.

 

[Meisen]

I hear you norm, but the engine is cooler than ever so I cant see that it holds the heat longer?
Specially not here, strange…….had another trip yesterday again, just works perfect but just sounds better.
I would think some gaskets ore anything would start to leak pretty soon/fast if there is a lot of drag?

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

Your 60W oil is ‘clinging’ to internal engine parts which has the audible effect of ‘quieting’ the motor. It’s a false sense of security or accomplishment.

Similar to the old Lucas Oil Treatment tabletop display that shows how ‘sticky’ the oil is and how it clings to the white rotating plastic gears.

In actuality, your engine now has terrible oil flow which is sure to wear out bearings and other rubbing/moving parts prematurely.

What gasket would you expect to see leak oil with such poor oil flow?

 

[normthenomad]

I hear you norm, but the engine is cooler than ever so I cant see that it holds the heat longer?
Specially not here, strange…….had another trip yesterday again, just works perfect but just sounds better.
I would think some gaskets ore anything would start to leak pretty soon/fast if there is a lot of drag?

With a wet sump system the counterweights on the crank shaft rotate through the oil.
They're not completely submerged in it as they rotate but enough that it does create drag.
H-D engines only have a teacup full in the crank case at any given time.
I'm just wondering why your bike runs so hot.
No it wouldn't cause any leaks just makes the engine work a little harder.
Hey, if it's working for you carry on my friend and enjoy your summertime.

 

[1stVictory]

Polaris engineers spec'd 20W-40 semi-synthetic for some reason. Likely because they know their sh*t as it were. 60W oil is just a tad thinner than 70-80 gear fluid. Cold morning starts could be an issue depending how cold it gets where you live and how late you ride in the season. My thoughts...

 

[normthenomad]

Polaris engineers spec'd 20W-40 semi-synthetic for some reason. Likely because they know their sh*t as it were. 60W oil is just a tad thinner than 70-80 gear fluid. Cold morning starts could be an issue depending how cold it gets where you live and how late you ride in the season. My thoughts...

I remember how much fun it was trying to kick start my brandy new '67 XLCH on a 50 degree morning with 60 wt. and that was with a dry sump with only about a teacup full in the crankcase.

 

[eotsis1]

Isn't Norway's average temperature cooler than the U.S.A. due to being more northerly? Unless you only run June to August, I'm also not convinced a heavier oil is best in the long run.
I use Amsoil 10w/40 metric but all year long in Illinois. (Yes, I ride in the winter). Changed a clutch @ 170k miles and now at 190k miles and still no complaints. It does have a PCV and a timing wheel. I do have lower air deflectors that I only turn in above 80F.