It states its for BIG bore bikes in description
APPLICATIONS
AMSOIL Synthetic SAE 60 Motorcycle Oil is recommended for early-model air-cooled V-Twin engines where a 60-weight motor oil is specified. SAE 60 motor oils are commonly used in Harley-Davidson® Knucklehead, Panhead, Shovelhead and big-bore motorcycles. AMSOIL Synthetic SAE 60 Motorcycle Oil meets API SG, SL/CF; API GL-1; JASO MA/MA2 and ISO-L-EMA2.

 

As topic says, without trying to open a can of worms……..anyone tried this?

Yes, several have attempted it many times but, ole Slickvic always shows up and the discussion ends up on Spectro, just say you are going to use Rotella blended for marine use or we will never hear an end to this topic 😂

 

Vic clutches, especially on bikes like yours with added performance parts, always work better with a JASO MA/2 Semi Synthetic motorcycle specific oil. 10W-40 or 20W-50 works great. Avoid any and all full synthetics or you'll likely be back under the derby cover replacing the clutch pack.

Your case is made worse since I believe you installed an easy clutch pull device. Sadly, these devices eliminate too much of the available clutch free play that's needed to prevent a slipping clutch. Again, in your case the damage is magnified since you continue to wring out every available Hp and Trq number from the engine.

Your CCT lowers are likely the cause of your bike seeming to run hot. I had the exact same situation recently on my CCT after I reinstalled the CCT lowers. The lowers door opening is key. For me, the happy spot is with the CCT lower doors open 1/3 to 1/2. Too open dumps too much engine/exhaust heat onto your legs. Too closed and the engine/exhaust heat is especially noticed.

For me, the Victory forged bars will likely go back on.

Any and all thought of your bike running hot will go away as soon as your remove the CCT lowers. They block a ton of air around the engine. Just try it, they come off in only a few minutes.

You most defineitely do not need a full synthetic SAE 60 weight oil. That's no where near what your engine was designed to use.

 

I had the lower fairings open last trip, and with all the bad weather we have in Norway these are gonna stay on but good point Mark
The SAE60 oil has all the right specs with JASO MA/2 exept that it is fully synthetic.
And no, the easypull is off as long as I have the Barnett cable on, seems like the udjustmen for the cable is longer on the OEM cable so the easy pull is gonna be off until new OEM cable is on.
I have tried so much different oil and did not notice any difference from either Amsoil Fully Synthetic 20w-50 V-Twin, Mobil Racing 4T Fully Synthetic and now the Bellray 20w-50 Semi synthetic.
So thats why i was wondering of trying this oil now this time for the next oil change after the dynorun.

See many uses this oil on other forums and specially with Big Bore kits so was just hoping maybe anyone here had tried it??

If it does not work I`ll just change back to Bellray again

 

I had the lower fairings open last trip, and with all the bad weather we have in Norway these are gonna stay on but good point Mark
The SAE60 oil has all the right specs with JASO MA/2 exept that it is fully synthetic.
And no, the easypull is off as long as I have the Barnett cable on, seems like the udjustmen for the cable is longer on the OEM cable so the easy pull is gonna be off until new OEM cable is on.
I have tried so much different oil and did not notice any difference from either Amsoil Fully Synthetic 20w-50 V-Twin, Mobil Racing 4T Fully Synthetic and now the Bellray 20w-50 Semi synthetic.
So thats why i was wondering of trying this oil now this time for the next oil change after the dynorun.

See many uses this oil on other forums and specially with Big Bore kits so was just hoping maybe anyone here had tried it??

If it does not work I`ll just change back to Bellray again

The SAE 60 wt is specifically designed for the early Harleys that had cast iron cylinders, the Knuckle heads and Sportsters had iron cylinder heads as well. The Panheads (1948 through 1965) and Shovel heads(1966 through mid1984) were aluminum heads. They also had a high volume low pressure oiling system.
DO NOT run straight 60wt in your Victory it requires a good flow of oil on start up and the thinner multi weight actually carries away heat much better than a straight heavy weight oil.
Do you have the Millennium cylinders or Lloydz? The Millennium cylinders are Nikasil plated bore Lloydz are steel lined.
That makes a difference in how much heat is generated as well.
I'd stick with a 20w40w blend with a JASO rating but switching oils a lot is going to cause an issue with your clutch eventually.

 

On a related note and to Mark's point on what the wrong oil can do to your clutch, I just watched this recent video posted by Rylan. It's a great reference if you ever need to replace your clutch.

Anyways, Rylan talks about using the wrong oil in the first several minutes of his video.

 

This SAE60 oil is marked with Jaso/MA2 for wet clutch, so I dont think thats is going to be a problem, det biggest concern here is the coldstart as norm said…….
Thats why I was wondering if anyone has tried this oil at all

 

No.
It's for Harleys,Harleys use wet clutches too but the difference in engine design is the issue.

 

I think I read on here (or maybe heard in one of the vids), that the oil passages in Vics are smaller, so thicker oil could not circulate as well and hence the 20/40 recommendation. I run 20/50, but also live in a hot climate and it seems to have helped with the heat in the middle of summer when temps get well over 100° F

 

Just for grins I punched in 60 wt oil for motorcycles two out of the three stated for pre evolution Harleys.
60 wt doesn't get rid of heat nearly as well as multi viscosity oils.
20w50 is fine for a Vic living in a hot climate, use it myself here in southern az.
Meisen, I've been riding and working on motorcycles since 1964 please don't use 60wt in your Vic.

 

Ok, I hear you........just feeling that after I mounted the BB kit the bike/engine is so damn hot all the time!! Was trying to get the temp down........after a good trip on the bike for just say an hour with regular driving, the gearbox/primary cover is so hot I cant even touch it before almost burning myself, should it be that hot?
I havent measurdet the oil heat but typically also after 20min of riding you can clearly hear the engine start s\razzilng/valvetrain razzling, hot oil.......clutch does not slip ore anything butjust afraid of the engine.
Running Bell Ray 20w50 Semi Synthetic now, but did not fell any differance on this compared to Amsoil 20w50 V-Twin Fully Synthetic........So I am just trying to find an answer of this.
See on different other forums people with Vic`s do run the SAE60 Amsoil and says that this works just fine and the engine is cooler and no problems with the clutch either.......

 

Are you running a Power Commander or the Maximus tune.
Perhaps you can communicate with Noe and he can maybe (if you're running the Maximus) take a little timing out of it and maybe richen it up a little to help.
Point me toward one of the forums where one or more have run this oil, I'm very interested in what they have to say.All I can find is a recommendation for Amsoil 15w-60w for Vics and Indians.
Everything I know runs counter to using 60wt in a Vic motor.
Yours is the first I've read about that has that severe heating problem with the big bore kit.
See if there's some way to get the oil temperature. If it's much over 230F then I would be concerned.
What speeds and RPM's are you running?
What's the ambient air temperature?
Highway or city riding?
Hey, you got the clutch problem solved maybe a solution for the heat issue can be resolved as well.

 

I agree. If you’re running that hot, you have a tuning issue not an oil issue. The Victory engine was designed specifically for a 20 W-40 semi synthetic motorcycle oil. The oil pump capacity, the oil cooling capacity the oil passageways, everything was designed as a unit. These engines should not run hot. Since yours is, you will not solve it with changing to a thick oil that should never be poured into your engine. It seems that your tune is off.

 

HAve a maximus tune and was just in the in dyno to get it retuned with 505 cams, had 501`s before but went hot with those as well.......spark plugs are looking perfect and told the tuner also that I felt the engine was running a little hot so dont put some extra timing on top to get more HP liek i treid the first time.
But teh bike runs well, I just feel and the get it cooled down cause after a while i can hear the valvetrain and chains razzling........the Bellray oil should survive 2 hours of tuning in the dyno?
The oil was brand new when I went to the dyno but maybe its worn out allready but I wouldnt think so.........
This was mixed driving around city and highway, and we dont have more than 10degrees celcius outside now here in Norway.
The RPM limiter is set to 6200RPM

Clutch has never been a problem after I installed the gold spring from Rivera

 

I've never run Bel-Ray but it should have survived 2 hours on the dyno. That's getting really hot to break fresh oil down that quick.
You're going to have to make some calls to Cory, Rylan and Noe. You've exceeded my pay grade now.
Spai 30103018 cooling fan may be helpful, it's a 4 inch pull type fan.
Maybe hooked to a manual switch.

 

And of course a 10hours drive to the only tuner in Norway that really knows these bikes and knows everything about maximus and is a Technoresearch dealer.............

 

Remove the CCT lowers and see if it still runs hot. There are many Victory motorcycles running around with cams. When I had cams installed on my CCT, it runs noticeably cooler, not hotter.

 

Think I will try to take out right cat first as mentioned on the other post and just leave the left inside

 

https://www.thevog.net/threads/removing-right-side-cat.174438/

 

Small update, was still not happy with the heat reduction the cat removal gave me so since I`m not always a good listener, i had 4quartz of this SAE60 oil in my shelf, and this saturday I was going to a rally a little up north so ran the bike/engine hot and poor out all the Bell Ray 20-50 Semi.Synt oil and changed it.
Heard imediatlly a different sound in the engine, and not od bad kind.
Just took it for a spin in the Yard outside the clubhouse and all razzling noise from valves and timing chains was almost gone.
Went to the rally at Saturday and drove the bike almost 500km(300miles) up and home again, and
on the way home at Saturday night there was almost no trafic so I pushed the bike really hard.
When I got home there was not a single razzlesound from engine ore timingchains and engine heat alsowas reduced a lot.
Checked the oil level also, still at the same mark, clutch is working perfect.......so I can only speak for my self but atm this was what my engine needed, just hoping now I will get time to travel to the tunes this summer to check the numbers in the dyno again after the rightside cat delete, and now with an engine without razzking sounds.

So for me, my bike and Norway I can only say the Amsoil SAE60 was the perfect match

 

In actuality you’re muffling the sounds of an internal combustion motor by a way too thick oil. Nothing in the Victory 106” engine was designed to run a straight weight 60 oil. Not the oil pump nor any oil passage. Period.

If you ran 100% STP Oil Treatment it would be even quieter and do even more damage over time.

Your heat issue is due to your insistence of running the CCT lowers in hot and humid temperatures. If you removed them, you’d immediately realize you can run the proper oil and not have a heat issue. Especially after removing the right cat.

 

We will just have to see then if the engine blows, everything runs so smooth that i cant imagine why…….but many days left of the season to blow the engine, gasckets ect because of wrong oil use
I removed the fairings with teh Bell Ray oil and did not feel there was much difference but did not test it for a long run either.

 

You didn’t notice a heat difference with or without having the CCT lower fairings installed?

That would truly be amazing to the point of being unbelievable. Remember, my CCT lowers are typically in my attic at anything over 40F. I love my victory forged bars instead. For form, function and temperature control.

 

I didnt say nothing but not very much of a differance.
Had a nive trip yesterday to for about 100miles, runs smoother than ever before........so if could go back in time I would have used this oil from the start with the BB kit
I have absolutely no reason to lie about this, but if it is as you say the Victory engines are NOT designed for straigt weight 60 oil, i think I would start having problems allready instead of the engine running smoother and all razzling from valves and chains are gone?
Im not saying that maybe there not designed for thick oil but this oil works, and I cant think that Amsoil would have Victory on the list for this oil if it should not work?
I have almost 500miles now with the SAE60 oil in the bike

Eiterway, this works just fine here........for now

 

Why not try straight 80W then?

Maybe an oil mix of 50% 60W and 50% STP Oil Treatment.

I would definitely not buy a used vehicle from you.

But I hope it all works out for you.

 

I dont know what straight actually meens, but the SAE60 is Fully Synthetic oil, if you mean straight is mineral oil?
My english is not perfect and spes with technical terms.
But why so angry over that this oil works just fine?
At least for now

I dont think you would come all the way to Norway to buy a used vehicle either

 

Amsoil makes SAE 60 oil as well as 15W-60, the 15W-60 is Indian and Victory formula. SAE60 is Harley formula.

 

Straight weight means it maintains its viscosity cold or hot.
Multi viscosity, like the correct oil rating of 20w-40, means it flows like a 20 weight (thin) when cold: a very good thing. And maintains a 40 weight rating when fully up to temperature. Also very good.

As I previously posted. Nothing in the 106” oil cooling and lubrication system design is intended for a straight 60 weight oil. Not when the engine is cold or when it’s hot. 60 weight is simply too thick for the design parameters of the air and oil cooled Victory 106” motor.

It quiets the engine internals because the oil is simply way too thick. The 60 weight also won’t flow worth a darn when the engine is cold. You’re simply wearing out your motor prematurely by using a straight 60 weight oil. Insufficient lubrication cold to hot.

 

I still think it's in the tune. There are other people here running the big bore with no complaints about overheating.
60 weight for Harleys was designed for the older bikes with iron cylinders and/or iron heads.
Clearances and heat were way different. That and tne oiling systems are way different on H-D.
High volume low pressure and a dry sump.
Vics are high pressure wet sump.
But, if it seems to help you then best of luck.

 

Yup, the tune could have too much ignition advance and/or not synced correctly between cylinders.

More power has been the goal and that often comes at the added cost of more (too much) heat.

@normthenomad is of course 100% correct. There are too many big bore Victory bikes riding around without a heat issue.

Especially since even temporarily removing the CCT heat retaining lowers didn’t see much reduction in felt heat on the rider.