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APRider

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Just wanted to ask can you remove the Vision's front fender without removing the front wheel?? Looks possible if I remove the brake calipers.. My bike is used, and I see that one side of the fender has cracked and repaired by p.o. But now the rear mounts have cracks and I want to pull it off and correct the issue.

Other question is how do you get the trunk lid inner and out panels apart? Do I just need to pull all of those Allen heads from the inner panel? I am going to add some LED strips for turn signals, and need to get access to run my wiring...

Hey thanks for any guidance you are able to provide......!
 
Both parts of the front fender can be removed without removing the tire.
I'm on my third lower rear front fender due to breakage.

The rear fender section is held on with shoulder bolts and push pins.
 
I replaced my "push pins" with nut and bolts, haven't had the rear mounting points crack or break since. You do have to be super critical about lining up the bolts for the rear mounts. The bolts have "shoulders" on them and need to be perfectly aligned or they won't sit in the hole correctly.
 
No need to take off the wheel. A couple of push pins & bolts & it will come off in 2 pieces.
I replaced my broken fender with a fiberglass one from HMD. I don't quite understand anyone who would put yet another defective part on their bike once the original has shown problems across the spectrum of many owners.
 
Should you replace the whole fender or just the rear fender? If it's the whole fender, would I order the paint from the dealership?
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Got the fender off, the front was cracked on one side and repaired by the P.O. The rear on one side is missing pretty much the entire mounting tab... My feeling is that those cheap ass push pins that attach the rear half to the front, provide virtually no structural support, and allow the rear half to bounce and vibrate until the mounting points fail...... Thanks all for the replies!
 
HMD 520 painted my fender for me when I ordered it.
 
Fender was 370 and paint was 250. I know really pricey but worth it. Factory color matches perfect.
 
Other question is how do you get the trunk lid inner and out panels apart? Do I just need to pull all of those Allen heads from the inner panel? I am going to add some LED strips for turn signals, and need to get access to run my wiring...
!
I have done an LED mod on mine. I used a 1 foot long strip of red for the brake light then a 6 inch strip on each side for turn signals. If I had it to do over, I would use a pair of foot long ambers for the turn signals instead. The shorter 6 inch red ones just don't look like they should to me. You can get enough clearance to fish the wires through by just removing those screws but the halves will not completely separate. What I did was fish the wires down on each side from a small hole I drilled in the lid right next to where the LED strip ended. I brought the wires back out by the hinges so I could follow the same wire path as the OEM wiring. Once I had the wiring in place I put a dab of clear silicone into the holes I drilled to keep the trunk water tight. Be careful aligning that brake light, the center is the center of the lid, not what seems like it should be the center based on the T on the chrome strip. I used posi-tap connectors under the seat to tie into the bike's wiring harness.
 
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Oldman47, I just completed the same tail light mod but I used 3 red led strips 12" long. Very noticeable. I also ordered an led license plate frame from Custom dynamics and it has amber turn leds built in. This way when I remove my trunk I still have super bright led turn signal lights in the back. A friend followed me to Cedar Key a few weeks ago and he said he couldn't tell when I was signalling to change lanes in the bright daylight. Now with the additional trunk lights I have recieved a lot of complements on the looks. I will add amber led strips on the side of the front floor boards just like Witch Doctors shows in his video. I already had the led strips so why not be sure I can be seen from the side. Until you light them up it is hard to notice that they are even there. I did not want them to look like they were just slapped on the bike. The Vision should have had bright led lights right from the factory, but its not too hard to do yourself. Ride safe my friends.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Thanks.. I was able to figure out separating the trunk lid halves.. I used 1ft LED strips for brake and turn signals... I used my VOM to probe the wiring harness to locate which wires to tap. In my rush to finish, I ended up tapping into the wrong lead for my brake light.. It's hot when I apply the brakes, but it's also hot when either of my turn signals are activated... Time to actually look at the wiring diagram..
 
Just came across this review.
If you are shopping for a Vision it has some good info
 
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Just came across this review.
If you are shopping for a Vision it has some good info
I just watched that whole thing again. A lot of what he said is no mystery to most folks. Fuel mileage is basically how you ride and Victory bikes are not fully broken in at 5000 miles though they do ride pretty well by then. An example of his ignorance is that he was surprised that if you do not keep your forks clean you will have fork seal problems. I will take exception to his evaluation of the Vision lowers. They work fine as designed but maybe having 115Âş daily temperatures causes the early failures he saw. Mine failed when I dropped my bike and it landed on the left one at a little over a year in. Even then it was the mount adhesive that failed when the fairing replacement was not done right, not the plastic. I replaced mine with Baker Air Wings due to costs but I could have gone with after market metal deflectors if I had not ruined the mounting attachment points.
 
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