Well, I'll assume that you have an XC or XCT, since you posted here. You really ought to include the year and model somewhere in your signature, for instance.

If you're going to keep things simple, I would suggest that you use a wire pair that's already present in the fairing. I don't know whether this holds across all model years of the XCs and XCTs, but usually the factory harness has at least one extra wire pair for the Vic driving lights or fog lights or whatever they are. This pair -- ground and hot -- will be inside the fairing, with maybe a label on it, and terminated in a nice factory plug. You should always use a real ground, either as part of a pre-existing wire pair or a pair you add yourself; going old-school -- relying on connecting to some chuck of metal on the bike for a ground -- is asking for trouble. Maybe in the all-steel old days that trick worked, but in these days of multiple metals, and plastics, and fuss-budget ECM nanny programming, using the frame is asking for trouble (IMHO).

And the wire will be hot only with the ignition on, which is what you want (so you don't have to remember to turn off the added lights). And it will be fused high enough for your needs. If you want additional on/off control, then you have to cut the hot lead, and add wires routing it to and from an added switch. The stock dash will have one or two blank spots, typically depending on whether you heated grips or not. Those dash blanks accept Vic switches, or those found at any auto-parts store in that standard size (and if they're a tiny bit bigger than the blank cutout, a little filing will fix that).

For connecting to that wiring harness extra plug, there are some threads that list suppliers of matching plugs. Those plugs usually require that you insert pins inside the plugs, i.e., assemble them yourself. The easier way -- if not as "clean" -- is to just cut the plug off, and then deal with the two wires with solder, or Posi-Locks, or Wago Cage Clamps, or whatever connectors you're used to using.

Taking off the fairing is a 10-minute job, and presents no challenges. If you get into removing the dash, there are some screws behind the forks and some over the tank that are a pain to deal with. (The dash blanks can be removed without taking off the dash, but I think it's easier to have the dash off. If you have heated grips, those spade lugs usually fall off, and should go back in specific positions. There's also the sensor for the ambient temp reading.)

If this project is just the start of many electrical farkles, you may want to get into the realm of battery-terminal extenders or, beyond that, relays and fuse panels. Those would be the subject of another post or two.

Hope some of this is the sort of thing you're looking for. Rummage around inside the fairing, and you could be all set.

 

Awesome thanks, might be just a bit out of my comfort zone but I'll probably read up some more and tackle it in next couple weekends.

 

Here is some videos for you......get your popcorn.

 

Be carefull wih the LED lights that you get, i have installed ones and now i am fighting with Radio Frequency Interference meaning i cannot use FM radio and I could nit fine the solotion to my problem yet

 

I used the Denali DM LED lights mounted to the upper hole on the forged bars using Kewlmetal mounts . The Denali kit comes with all the wiring, switch , & a relay . I pulled power directly from the battery and powered up the relay from a unused keyed wire under the seat . I ran the wires up from the lights , put a washer between the top & side bolts for clearance on the wires , ran the wires over to the frame & secured them . I mounted the switch on the triple tree .

 

I used the Denali DM LED lights mounted to the upper hole on the forged bars using Kewlmetal mounts . The Denali kit comes with all the wiring, switch , & a relay . I pulled power directly from the battery and powered up the relay from a unused keyed wire under the seat . I ran the wires up from the lights , put a washer between the top & side bolts for clearance on the wires , ran the wires over to the frame & secured them . I mounted the switch on the triple tree . View attachment 6315 View attachment 6316

Hey man, I would really like to use the same wire you used under the seat so I can leave the ones in the fairing available for a future amp install. Do you have any pictures oof this wire or description? Also what did you use for a ground and relay?

 

On left side of tank, behind wire bundle is a pair if wires taped up, they are for the aux driving lights,already pre wired from the factory. Worked for me

 

Check out ClearWaterLights before you buy/install anything.

 

Well, if this thread is drifting from wiring strategies to selecting lights, for an excellent list of high-quality products, I suggest checking out webBikeWorld's extensive list of lights and their reviews, here:

Motorcycle Lighting Reviews - LED Light Reviews - Headlight Modulators - webBikeWorld

 

I kept it simple and cheap, about $125 for everything; LED's eBay, Kury P-Clamps, Advanced Auto lighted switch (blue to match dash lights) and an in-line fuse. I wired direct to the battery and the lighted switch reminds me to turn off the fogs when I shut the bike down. Also, in most states when running fog lights, the fogs must be turned off when using hi-beam. You can't do this if you go with a key on connection unless you run a switch in between. I've had it set up this way for a year now, no problems.

 

I mounted my led lights to the crash bar and wired them with an line fuse directly to battery and added a switch on the dash. I do get a little fm radio interference especially when I am quite a distance from the station. If I shut them off reception is clear. Has anyone know how to do away with the interference issue? Thanks. Ride Safe All.

 

I'm set up the same way but no radio or BT interference.

 

In the mad world of CBing in the early eighties, we used to use little ferrode rings and just loop the power lead through it a couple of times and no more interference from ignition etc.....

 

Ferrode ring?

 

Maybe the spelling isn't correct, maybe it is a ferrite ring or similar..... Commonly called a "choke"....

 

Thanks for all the info. I have the lights and brackets already, just need extra wire to run to power/ground. Those clearwater lights are extremely expensive. I wanted to do this as a reasonably priced upgrade and not break the bank. If I use the spare wire bundle in the fairing, will this cause issues later when I upgrade to amp/6.5" speakers?

 

I bought my led driving lights from each buyer.com they were 13.50 each with free shipping. they are great little lights they have bright, dim, and strobe and i got a switch from autozone for 3.99. Like I said before mine are hooked up to the battery with an inline fuse. Let me know if you have interference with the radio or how you got rid of it. Ride Safe.

 

I bought the factory switch harness for the Cross Roads(very reasonable), Bought the factory switch used on Cross Roads/Vision for turning the lights on/off(almost never off). Snapped right into the fairing, plugged right into factory harness on the bike. No splicing required.

Near the crash bars I added some quick connectors, sleeved round barrel style, similar to factory but smaller. Allows me to change up lights quicker and easier should the need be.

 

I don't suppose you happen to have the part numbers for the factory switch harness and switch?

 

I have the Clearwater lights on my 13 XCT. They are expensive, but they are very well made, extremely bright, and came with everything needed to install in less than an hour.
My next set will be Clearwater lights also.

 

Can you please post a picture of the clear water lights installed on your ride?
Thanks

 

Here is the thread for mine: Installed LED driving lights and side markers today Page 2 Victory Motorcycles Motorcycle Forums

About $100 in parts and materials. No FM interference or other problems.

 

What guage wire would you recommend to run from the lights to the battery and to the switch etc? My lights came but only have about 7 inches of wire running away from them so I'm going to have to splice them into a longer cable.

 

what are the wattage on the lights?

Add the wattages together, divide by 12 to get amperage.

Amperage will dictate wire gauge.

Or you could just use 18gauge wire. good for up to 10A on a 10 foot run @12 volts which SHOULD exceed your driving lights.

 

I installed led driving lights and they are hooked up directly to the battery with a switch on the fairing dash, but I am getting static on fm stations when the lights are on, but when I turn them of the static goes away. I do have a shorty antenna also maybe that hinders the reception also. Does Anyone have any suggestions on how I can get rid of the static interference on my fm radio stations. I have put ferrite beads as close to the lights I can. Appreciate any suggestions. Thanks and Ride Safe All..