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Good to hear! One more thing I don't have to think about now. How hard was it to drop the cams in? Am I going to need to get a dyno tune or can I just plug in settings to the Lloydz tuner based on my mods and altitude (5,000 ft)?
 
ev1l2n said:
What size is the exhaust tip on the CC/CR? I am considering swaping out the stocker. I have seen some very cool looking after market tips and would like to explore this o option. Ride safe!
I did something similar to bad250's with tips from Jeg's. Took them to an exhaust shop and paid $20 to have them cut. Here's video...
Here's the tips... http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%2B1147708&searchTerm=555-30945
 
Discussion starter · #64 ·
4est, the cams were a chore but doable. My dad and I did it in my garage. Tank off and unbolt the valve cover plates - very tight quarters. unbolt the backbone frame under seat and we used a claw hammer to give us enough of a gap to remove the cover on the back cylinder. The most critical thing is to orient the crank correctly before removing timing chain. However, the instructions show you what you need to know. I will post pics when I can on the steps I did. I would recommend dyno to tune programmer. You can use my settings but they would only be for starting as your bike will run differently than mine on exahust config and air intake, altitude - etc ... Lloyd is very helpful too if you plan on doing it I would recommend calling as talking with him, leave message or send email if necesary.
 
bad250 said:
I love the cams ... The best $500 I spent yet!
VM1 cams are ONLY ~ $500? If so, I may decide to buy a set and leave them on my workbench until I can get to installing them. I'm no Victory mechanic but I use to work 1960's outboard motors when I had my hydro so figure I can pull apart pretty much ANY 2 cylinder and get it back together in the right order & it sounds like a fun "relatively cheap" project. I guess I always thought that the cams and install was around $1,500 so kinda wrote that off but if it's only around $500...well
 
Discussion starter · #66 ·
Yea unless the price went up, here is the link for them: http://www.lloydz.com/store/item_view.asp?estore_itemid=1000025 I see they went to $520 for the pair
 
What makes the cam job expensive is the added tuner, dyno, and labor costs if you aren't doing it yourself. A PCV w/AT puts the cost right about $1040 assuming the air filter and mufflers have been changed out or altered to flow correctly. With the Victory AF and D&D mufflers; add around $650. Phil64 did a write up on doing this job available [link='http://jumbofiles.com/5ytjdhakh1p4']HERE[/link]. I did the job with basic hand tools in my garage easily enough. I did use a big pry bar to lift the backbone and stick a screw driver in one of the mount bolt holes to hold it up while doing the back cams.
 
For those of us who dont have access to a CNC machine do you have any suggestions? All I can think of is to cut off the exhaust tube that sticks out flush with the muffler, then take a 3-1/2 inch metal hole saw and cut a hole in the back the muffler it hits the baffle tubes, then grind away excess metal till baffle tubes slides out and blow out metal shavings. Or spend $179.00 at Witch Doctor for de-baffled pipes.....any sugesstions out there?
 
I took the slip-ons off, along with the end caps and used a hand held grinder. I made the cut at the weld on the very back of the pipe. The guts came out and I used the grinder to reduce the surface about 1/8" on the back pf the pipe so that the new caps would go on flush. A few self tapping screws later on each pipe to seal the deal and thats it. Hope it works out for you. I couldn't be happier.
 
Sounds like that's what I'll do but want to retain use of the existing end cap bracket. I've seen pics of other post where others have ground off the end cap bracket and re-welded afterward. My plan is to buy by an after market end cap from either WitchDoctor or Travelin Man who makes a Jet exhaust tip.
 
Be careful using the original end cap. One of the guys in this forum said he did that and it caused an exhaust to leak around the cap due to the cap being bigger than the end after the modification. He ended up going with a smaller end, i think he went from a 4" to a 2". I cant remeber the entire post, but that was the main reason I went with the bigger endcaps. Just a thought.
 
Discussion starter · #74 ·

I had to bring my bike back in for my starter going out and the exhaust was done and the cams were in as well as programmer ... and they said nothing about any of it affecting warranty ... (of course I did not volunteer any info on the cams) Each dealer is unique in their interpretation of "voiding" warranty - so I can't honestly say ... it is technically changing the factory settings so .... user beware I guess ... BUT on that note - IT IS SOOOOO WORTH IT!
 

Thanks. This is going to be my winter project. I have got to get more air into this thing. I cross the divide to and from work and it tops out at 87 at 10500. I took the noise strip out and got alittle more. (or it sure feels like it) The sound alone is worth it.
 
Discussion starter · #76 ·

I agree on letting it breathe! I too have the strip out but also put the "performance" (K&N) filter and I did dyno before with stock and after with new filter and strip gone and saw near 10hp gain .. so breathing is better! Look on page 4 of this thread and you will see the dyno sheet for stock air v/s K&N
What did you mean tops out at 87 at 10500 ? 87mph 10500 rpm?
 

bad250 said:
I agree on letting it breathe! I too have the strip out but also put the "performance" (K&N) filter and I did dyno before with stock and after with new filter and strip gone and saw near 10hp gain .. so breathing is better! Look on page 4 of this thread and you will see the dyno sheet for stock air v/s K&N
What did you mean tops out at 87 at 10500 ? 87mph 10500 rpm?
I think he means 10,500ft! I ride through there too although I don't think I was anywhere close to 87mph (on purpose). My XC rides pretty good at the high altitudes with the high flow air filter and strip removed. I would think I could do quite a bit more than 87mph at 10,000 feet though.
 

mtnstryder said:
Thanks. This is going to be my winter project. I have got to get more air into this thing. I cross the divide to and from work and it tops out at 87 at 10500. I took the noise strip out and got alittle more. (or it sure feels like it) The sound alone is worth it.
I just looked up Alice, CO. Looks like a nice place tucked away in the Rockie's. I live in Loveland and do loops out 70 to Aspen and Winterpark. Let me know if there's a good place to stop and eat their. I'd like to come through there sometime.
 
Discussion starter · #79 ·

Ah few that makes more sense! I was really set back on that one - wondering how in the world can you rev a bike that high and only get 87 mph ... ok cool - where I live 10' above sea level is a bridge - lol ... have a great weekend yall - i'm outta here
 

Sorry for the confusion. I don't normally ride at that speed, just stretch it out on occasion. That's going uphill on the east side of the tunnel.
Yes, Alice is tucked away up in the hills. My deck is at 10200ft. No eateries up here. TommyKnocker'sBrewery in Idaho Springs is pretty good. As is Azteca in Idaho Springs.
I've already printed this whole string out so I don miss anything.
Ride safe guys
 
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