Well, there is the one you started on this site a year ago, on Sept 7th 2012, seems that would be a good place to start!

 

Victory may or may not have a bunch of tires with "VICTORY" stamped on them. If so, that doesn't make them any different than any other E3. There isn't a special compound or tread pattern made exclusively for Victory. I don't know if the MTs are OEM now or not but they should be (IMHO). I'm getting pretty good wear on my rear E3 MT. I'll probably put an E3 MT on the front in the spring.

 

Your dealer is FOS. Just like the guys that think the Dunny 402 is "special" if it has HD stamped on it. Well, I guess it is, it costs more.
E3's are a beefy tire with a 992 IIRC pound load rating. They beefed up the tire and load rate about 5 years ago. Avon recently came out with a tire that has a similar load rating. The E3 with the MT shares the same specs as the older tire.
Dealers will tell you anything they can to sell their overpriced rubber. I also hear about all the "Goldwing" rated tires from Bridgestone and other makers. Looking them up, they seem to be no different in speed, load, ply, ot any other way from the generic off the shelf.
YMMV

 

I am having a set of new Dunlops installed on my bike as my dealer waits for the new rear cylinder head to come in. The rear tire is the new MT tread design. They are not making an MT designated front tire that I am aware of. Hope to get more mileage out of the rear with the dual compound. Another reason I stuck with Dunlops is their load carrying capacity.The XCT I have is ridden mostly 2 up and loaded often. Just makes me feel a little more comfortable on those 90+ degree days runnin down the road. Unfortunatley it looks like I won't be able to give them a good test till next year. When I pick the bike up I will check and see if the 2014s have the new rear tire. I have never seen any tires with Victory stamped on them, but I never really looked that hard.

 

Avon recently came out with a tire that has a similar load rating.

Did not know this. I would have investigated these further had I known. Check them out next time.

 

They are not making an MT designated front tire that I am aware of.

If they aren't out yet, they will be soon.

 

I have a 2013 Vision and E3's came on them from the factory. The day I bought it, I went from the dealer to my local tire place and put nitrogen in them. At 4000 miles the rear tire started cupping. I am not real happy with the E3's on this bike. I put E3's on previous bike, a Yamaha Venture, and they stopped the cupping problem on that bike. I was happy to see the E3's on the Vison when I bought it but have been very disappointed with their performance on this bike.

 

I have a 2013 Vision and E3's came on them from the factory.

There's more than one flavor of E3. Since it's inception, Vic has put the single compound E3s on the Vision as OE because that's all that was available. This year, Dunlop introduced the E3 MT (Multi Tread). This is a dual compound tread with a harder rubber in the middle for longevity and a softer compound on the edges for cornering grip. My '12 had single compound E3s on it, stock. I replaced the rear OE E3 at about 6500 miles with an E3 MT. So far (in about another 6000 miles), it seems to be wearing slower with little to no cupping. We'll see how it does in the next 6k miles (and, God willing, the 6k miles after that).
Dunlop also has a new Muilti Compound FRONT E3 that is either out or will be shortly. If that's out by spring, I'll put that on. If not, I'll put on an Avon.

 

I have a 2013 Vision and E3's came on them from the factory. The day I bought it, I went from the dealer to my local tire place and put nitrogen in them. At 4000 miles the rear tire started cupping. I am not real happy with the E3's on this bike. I put E3's on previous bike, a Yamaha Venture, and they stopped the cupping problem on that bike. I was happy to see the E3's on the Vison when I bought it but have been very disappointed with their performance on this bike.

You can put what you want in them, but you need to put enough and check often. The radial E3's seem to like the 41-42 PSI or a bit more range. Yes if you do the math with a pillion or heavy load, we are running close to the max. Not as close as the Stones, Metz, or former Avon models, but heavy.
I had the same experience with bias ply E3's on a couple of Ventures. They are the bomb, and don't seem to share the wet irregularities the radial form has, at least for me. They seem to be very different animals from bias to radial.
I've yet to have an E3 cup. Some began to scallop a tad later in life, but nothing worth writing home over. I'm looking hard at the new Avon offering, and waiting patiently for a full life review on one. E3 MT is and interesting offering too, and waiting on reviews. Some have already had very positive things to say. If they bite up in the wet, they may have a winner.
Cheers

 

You can put what you want in them, but you need to put enough and check often. The radial E3's seem to like the 41-42 PSI or a bit more range. Yes if you do the math with a pillion or heavy load, we are running close to the max. Not as close as the Stones, Metz, or former Avon models, but heavy.
I had the same experience with bias ply E3's on a couple of Ventures. They are the bomb, and don't seem to share the wet irregularities the radial form has, at least for me. They seem to be very different animals from bias to radial.
I've yet to have an E3 cup. Some began to scallop a tad later in life, but nothing worth writing home over. I'm looking hard at the new Avon offering, and waiting patiently for a full life review on one. E3 MT is and interesting offering too, and waiting on reviews. Some have already had very positive things to say. If they bite up in the wet, they may have a winner.
Cheers

Exactly, doesn't matter if you use the 78% nitrogen from the air we breath or some marketing gimmick higher percentage, it's the pressure that matters. 41-42lbs rear, 38-40 front got me 16k on the rear and it wasn't down to the wear bars. Hope to get more miles out of my rear MT but I'm being a lot harder on it with the addition of Lloydz cams .

 

The Dunlop website now recommends 41 PSI front and rear for the newly designed E3's.

I have the new E3 MT on SCREAM and after 12,000 miles I can see that I will get many more miles out of these than I got out of the older style of E3's.

I don't have any problems with uneven wear or grip in the twisties now or previously.
Manhole covers in turns and tar snakes can make things interesting.
I've never lost traction in wet weather conditions, even at posted freeway speeds.
They track well on metal grated bridges and grooved pavement.
"Feedback" is in my opinion good.
These new tires don't sing in the turns like the old ones did.

The trick to great tire wear is keeping the tire pressure spot on.

Throw your stick gauges away and spend $30 to get a real tire pressure gauge.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/reb-280-8725/overview/

I deliberately overfill my tires so I only have to do that part once.
Then I use the gauge with the bleeder valve to reduce the pressure until I'm spot on.
2 steps and done.

 

The Dunlop website now recommends 41 PSI front and rear for the newly designed E3's.

I have the new E3 MT on SCREAM and after 12,000 miles I can see that I will get many more miles out of these than I got out of the older style of E3's.

I don't have any problems with uneven wear or grip in the twisties now or previously.
Manhole covers in turns and tar snakes can make things interesting.
I've never lost traction in wet weather conditions, even at posted freeway speeds.
They track well on metal grated bridges and grooved pavement.
"Feedback" is in my opinion good.
These new tires don't sing in the turns like the old ones did.

The trick to great tire wear is keeping the tire pressure spot on.

Throw your stick gauges away and spend $30 to get a real tire pressure gauge.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/reb-280-8725/overview/

I deliberately overfill my tires so I only have to do that part once.
Then I use the gauge with the bleeder valve to reduce the pressure until I'm spot on.
2 steps and done.

Great write-up...

I've had lousy results from using anything other than a stick guage. The analog guage I bought from AutoZone was ~8-10 lbs off and I was steadily overfilling my Vulcan 900 and truck tires. Didn't notice until I was hauling a tractor with the F150 and it felt wrong. Bought a stick guage and have stuck with them ever since. I'm guessing the one you linked is tried & true however.

 

Great write-up...

I've had lousy results from using anything other than a stick guage. The analog guage I bought from AutoZone was ~8-10 lbs off and I was steadily overfilling my Vulcan 900 and truck tires. Didn't notice until I was hauling a tractor with the F150 and it felt wrong. Bought a stick guage and have stuck with them ever since. I'm guessing the one you linked is tried & true however.

The one I have is accurate to within 1/2 pound of pressure.

Once you go to a higher quality gauge with a bleeder valve, you'll throw everything else away.
Deliberately overfilling the tires and then bleeding them down to the correct pressure is about as painless a way to adjust tire pressure as you can get.
Having the actual gauge outside of the tire area where you can clearly read the pressure is also a big plus.

I had stick gauges in each of my cars, the one that came with the Vision, and a couple more in my toolbox.
There was a 5 PSI spread between them and no two were identical.
I feel that they are about as accurate as kicking the tires.

I've not had any problems with my E3's leaking air over time.
The only reason for adjustments in pressure for me were due to changes in ambient air temperatures.
Generally rule of thumb is that for every 10 degrees in temperature, there will be one degree of change in your tire pressure.
Here in Ohio at this time of year you'll see lots of cars at gas station air hose stations putting in "Winter air".

 

The Dunlop website now recommends 41 PSI front and rear for the newly designed E3's.

I have the new E3 MT on SCREAM and after 12,000 miles I can see that I will get many more miles out of these than I got out of the older style of E3's.

I don't have any problems with uneven wear or grip in the twisties now or previously.
Manhole covers in turns and tar snakes can make things interesting.
I've never lost traction in wet weather conditions, even at posted freeway speeds.
They track well on metal grated bridges and grooved pavement.
"Feedback" is in my opinion good.
These new tires don't sing in the turns like the old ones did.

The trick to great tire wear is keeping the tire pressure spot on.

Throw your stick gauges away and spend $30 to get a real tire pressure gauge.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/reb-280-8725/overview/

I deliberately overfill my tires so I only have to do that part once.
Then I use the gauge with the bleeder valve to reduce the pressure until I'm spot on.
2 steps and done.

Pretty much my experience with the new MT rear. I have a few thousand miles on mine, much stickier in the twisties love the grip. It does spin up easier on take off however with my cams, if I leave in a spirited manner I smell rubber . Braking seems to be the same to me so far, will see how it is in the cold temps.

 

Thanks for all the input. I bought the E3 MT for backup, but ended up going to the darkside. 1500 miles on Dunlop AV7000 185/55 R16 and all is ok. There was a difference initially,but after 3 weeks and 15k miles I have adjusted to the point that I can't tell the difference unless I have to think about it.
Back brake works really good and metal grated bridges don't seem so squirrley. I have't done any twisties yet. Not too many in south fl. Pulling my fully loaded Leisure Lite tent trailer @ 600 lbs seems very steady. Having more rear brake with this trailer is great.
Anybody with a back rim let me know. I might mount the MT for trips to the Dragon.

 

i remember reading about the multi compound tires and seen at the time the ONLY ones were the OE honda sizes unless that changed. anything but a heavy hard riding dunlop for me. just check on tire manufacturers sites for load ratings and fitments and use what is correct. sometime a none OE size works correctly but the manufacturer will say no fitments, they worry about lawsuites!!

 

Ask for a Dunlop E3 MT. That's the multi tread (dual compound) E3. It comes in the OE size. The rear has been out since about the first of this year. Not sure if the front is out yet.

 

The Dunlop website now recommends 41 PSI front and rear for the newly designed E3's.

I have the new E3 MT on SCREAM and after 12,000 miles I can see that I will get many more miles out of these than I got out of the older style of E3's.

I don't have any problems with uneven wear or grip in the twisties now or previously.
Manhole covers in turns and tar snakes can make things interesting.
I've never lost traction in wet weather conditions, even at posted freeway speeds.
They track well on metal grated bridges and grooved pavement.
"Feedback" is in my opinion good.
These new tires don't sing in the turns like the old ones did.

The trick to great tire wear is keeping the tire pressure spot on.

Throw your stick gauges away and spend $30 to get a real tire pressure gauge.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/reb-280-8725/overview/

I deliberately overfill my tires so I only have to do that part once.
Then I use the gauge with the bleeder valve to reduce the pressure until I'm spot on.
2 steps and done.

17k on my original E3's; 1 & 2 up ridingboth loadedfor tour andunloaded; being a tire pressure nazi is the key IMHO and experience; I will replace both in the spring with MT E3 rear and an E3 or E3 MTfront (depending on what is avaiable)...

 

Good responses and I will bump up the pressure a couple of pounds tomorrow. My first rear I never had high enough pressure and it started making a whining noise while cornering after 8,000 k's. I changed it out after 18,000. The front was probably a little bit past the wear bars and got changed at 26,500 k,s. These are the most distance I have ever got out of any bike tyres.

 

Hey Skipper, I have a good rear rim for the Vision, standard silver. Straight,miked true, no dents or scrapes, used gently. $250 plus shipping. I'm in the Philadelphia area. Can invoice through PayPal, or whatever. Shark.