Biggest issue is where we live, for some reason no one but bike shops carry motorcycle specific oil and it's ridiculously expensive... double to triple to even quadruple the price of anything else on the market. Ordering from the states just gets us nailed with duty fees/taxes etc.

 

Checked my screenshot for info, it says T6, so it would be T6 that I used, not T5.
Not sure if it's any different for the jaso rating

 

T6 is a full syn, right? Polaris/Victory also says to use semi-syn.

re: options in the GWN, maybe some other Canucks will chime in. We have a few here.

 

LOL I didn't think anyone from the US would even know who they are.
Clutch is rock solid, I must've been thinking of something else. No wiggle room on the level at all.

 

That would be first then. Properly adjust the lever/cable. Should be some free play there both cold and hot.

here’s a good vid from a fellow Canadian and Vic owner.

 

WalMart - Castrol Actevo 4T, inexpensive, motorcycle wet clutch specific having a JSSO MS/2 rating.

 

WalMart - Castro Actevo, inexpensive, motorcycle wet clutch specific having a JSSO MS/2 rating.

I'll go take a look for it when I'm out and about tomorrow. It doesn't sound like a brand they carry here though. You would be surprised at the things Americans get in their Walmart vs what we get in ours.

 

Yeah, clutch is good for adjustment, the barrel on the bottom side has about 0.5 to 1mm travel before it won't move without pulling. On the lever that's almost negligible to be able to feel, but it's definitely not too too tight and acting like it's riding the clutch.

On my trip out, I can't make it slip 1st(I ride hard but I also don't do burnouts or lift the front tire) so 1st is roughly 50 to 80% throttle.
2nd no slippage.
3rd after it warmed up, around 90 to 110km /~3k rpm and up, it would slip a little. Rise a few hundred rpm without pulling the bike then go down and work properly.
4 - 6, slip under heavy throttle(50%+), all above 100kph,
If I ease into the throttle it doesn't seem to slip, or it's impossible for me to tell that it is.

 

Yeah, clutch is good for adjustment, the barrel on the bottom side has about 0.5 to 1mm travel before it won't move without pulling. On the lever that's almost negligible to be able to feel, but it's definitely not too too tight and acting like it's riding the clutch.

On my trip out, I can't make it slip 1st(I ride hard but I also don't do burnouts or lift the front tire) so 1st is roughly 50 to 80% throttle.
2nd no slippage.
3rd after it warmed up, around 90 to 110km /~3k rpm and up, it would slip a little. Rise a few hundred rpm without pulling the bike then go down and work properly.
4 - 6, slip under heavy throttle(50%+), all above 100kph,
If I ease into the throttle it doesn't seem to slip, or it's impossible for me to tell that it is.

Put some more slack in the cable.

 

Adjusting the cable for a bit more slack, and going to change to Castrol actevo 10w40, definitely not a cheap option here, 19$ per liter. Not sold in 5L jugs. Walmart did carry it, in their crazy small selection of choices, and next door at canadian tire they didn't have it at all.
Will report back tomorrow with updates.
Thank you all for your advice.

 

Wow, here in the US Castrol Actevo 4T is under $8/liter. It’s actually one of the most inexpensive motorcycle wet clutch JASO MA/2 options.

Congratulations for trying it and for adding free play to your clutch. A Victory 106” needs more clutch free play than you think would be necessary. There’s an old how to video from Mike at Arizona Police Victory or something like that that shows it well.

T6 is full synthetic and in some bikes, will cause the clutch to slip. It may take a bit for the Castrol Actevo to wash out the T6.

A stock Victory clutch is well suited for all but a big bore or a forced induction system.

Please keep us updated on how this goes for you. And thank you for taking these steps!

 

Clutch play is now 0.5 to 0.75 of an inch at the ball end of the lever before moving the barrel/assembly on the bottom side, so it will feel a little different for a while to my muscle memory, taking it for a ride after the brake cleaner high wears off lol. Roughly 130 bucks for oil and filter change.
And yes, we get royally fd in the A.. for everything up in the great white communist Canada. I understand we have less people to buy products, but it seriously isn't that expensive to transport them across the border to our stores.
The Castrol 4T and 2T next to it on the shelf, but NOT actevo, was 12 bucks a liter.

 

POSITIVE results, after switching to the expensive actevo, almost immediately upon riding the slipping was gone.
1st and 2nd definitely none, but was almost non existent there.
3rd MIGHT have slipped 200 or 300 rpm, but I can't be positive on that, was dodging traffic whilst it was still warming up.
Took a ~10km rip down a twisty road so lots of top of 2nd and all of 3rd gear hard pulls, no slippage noticed.
Fueled up, hit the highway, and wide open in 4th thru 6th, no slippage noticed.

I did throw some seafoam in with the actevo. Usually do throw a little in every change or every other one.

Thank you to all who responded and sorry for it turning into an oil thread.

 

Except for the rear ending on oil pricing, this is excellent news all around! Well done and congratulations!

 

Great discussion guys. Thank you, I learned from this thread.
Clutch cable adjustment was covered a lot in this discussion; It is such an important point that it is third in that list of things to check in the "NEW TO YOU VICTORY" info.
"Check your clutch play when the bike is cold and again when warm. The fully engaged and disengaged zones are small. Adjust when cold."

Seems like at least one "W" for "Castrol Actevo 4T".

Ride safe,
Smokier

 

For the record, there is no need or legitimate recommendation to adjust the clutch cable cold. Years ago a participant on here started that myth and it took on a life of its own. This easy-to-debunk misinformation has been repeated many times. There is no mention of adjusting it cold in the service manual. Think about it. Why would you need to adjust the cable cold? You don't use it cold. You use it hot. No documented procedure says to adjust it cold. The belt is a different matter.
I wish you had checked it after adjusting the cable and before changing the oil.

 

For my BB XCT i changed to Alto Red Eagle plates and went for the Gold Spring from Rivera Primo Engineering, best change ever made
Will probably work just fine with stock/oem plates also

 

Without opening a new can of worms here, FYI on my bike I am using Amsoil V-Twin 20w-50 Fully Synthetic on this setup and it works 100%!!

 

Out of habit and ease, I adjust my clutch cable when the bike is in the garage and cold. But I always confirm it when I'm riding.

The best Victory clutch adjustment video I've seen is here:

 

That’s the one, Mike was a fantastic representative,(still is through videos) he provided a $hit ton of excellent information. I especially like the Vic vs HD engine comparisons videos, (even though aren’t relevant to the new m8’s ) but are still great videos to send to your hd buddies Rip Mike

 

In the video Mike said the bike 'just came off the cones test' which leads me to believe the clutch is at operating temperature. Certainly not overnight cold. This makes perfectly good sense to me.

 

All I can say is i thought I read some stuff about the hub being very similar to Harley and it is. This is great conf!!!!!!

Now I wonder how it compares to the Barnett Heavy duty. Why? Because there is confirmed worry about the stock rack breaking with that spring. So in that case you either run the older Steel frame part number that is the same thing ( Obsolete and cant buy ) . Or order a Modded Indian rack from TVS. This rack is stronger like the old part number we cant buy. No BB here so personally wont be putting in the racing spring because it seems not needed for me.
But but but....
I have counted 3 or 4 stock racks breaking on XC with stock parts. I am almost done preparing for that to happen with any loss of the clutch.
1. New style Ratchet Shaft - supposed to have eliminated slop characteristics.
2. Rachet Spring - why not
3. Modded Indian Rack
4. New Throw out bearing.

 

I have driven about 15.000km with the BB and about 8-9.000km with the Gold Spring, and nothing to report exept that it is working very well
My bike/clutch rack had gone almost 75.000km when I bought the bike with no issues

 

The Gold Spring is harder/better than the Barnett Heavy Duty so I dont know, I have tried the Barnett Spring also and it still resting at my shelf

 

Is it this one?
Rivera Primo 2059-0002 RIVERA ENGINEERING PRIMO DIAPHRAGM SPRING-GOLD

 

Yes sir

 

You didn't have to change anything else? Replace the stock with this?

I know the Barnett is a Pressure Plate with the spring.

Mine slips just a little when I speed shift so I think of I just increased the Spring pressure it would be good. I think I could get away with the silver spring which I may buy both.