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Viking Bags Installation Questions

5034 Views 16 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Vickzack017
Hey fellow VOGgers and Octane owners. I'm in the process of mounting my Viking hard bags and see there are some slight clearance issues on the left side, right over the belt guard. Just eyeballing it the bags have to be kind of high. Can y'all upload some pictures of how you mounted your bags to share some insight? Maybe some pics of how the stock bags sit on the bike as well for reference. I just don't want the bags to be really high up - like level with the passenger seat. That would be mighty uncomfortable for my wife.

Here's a pic of the brackets installed. I used both the thin and thick spacer stacked together to move the brackets far enough from the fender. Thanks!

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Hey fellow VOGgers and Octane owners. I'm in the process of mounting my Viking hard bags and see there are some slight clearance issues on the left side, right over the belt guard. Just eyeballing it the bags have to be kind of high. Can y'all upload some pictures of how you mounted your bags to share some insight? Maybe some pics of how the stock bags sit on the bike as well for reference. I just don't want the bags to be really high up - like level with the passenger seat. That would be mighty uncomfortable for my wife.

Here's a pic of the brackets installed. I used both the thin and thick spacer stacked together to move the brackets far enough from the fender. Thanks!

View attachment 356289
I didn't remove my fender accents. Bored out the holes in the fender accents and fit the spacers in the bored out holes. Mine fit perfectly. Leaving the accents on bring out the bags atleast a half inch more. .5 in clearance from the belt guard. 2 inch clearance above pipes on right side. Use a level.
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I didn't remove my fender accents. Bored out the holes in the fender accents and fit the spacers in the bored out holes. Mine fit perfectly. Leaving the accents on bring out the bags atleast a half inch more. .5 in clearance from the belt guard. 2 inch clearance above pipes on right side. Use a level.
Thanks for the info, I'll be doing something similar this afternoon. I have also noticed that the bags rattle quite a bit so I'm going to use some aluminum bar-stock to make supports along the insides of the bags. Here's how it looks today.

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I'm thinking vertical supports between where the bag bolts to the brackets. This will keep the bags aligned and hopefully reduce vibration/rattling. When I have more disposable income I'll go to a local machinist and see if they can make up something specifically for this since the Viking mounts are heavy as f$$k.
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Thanks for the info, I'll be doing something similar this afternoon. I have also noticed that the bags rattle quite a bit so I'm going to use some aluminum bar-stock to make supports along the insides of the bags. Here's how it looks today.

View attachment 357121 View attachment 357129 View attachment 357137 View attachment 357145

I'm thinking vertical supports between where the bag bolts to the brackets. This will keep the bags aligned and hopefully reduce vibration/rattling. When I have more disposable income I'll go to a local machinist and see if they can make up something specifically for this since the Viking mounts are heavy as f$$k.
And the bags open the wrong way, I had to go to tractor supply and buy 2" spacers.
Thanks for the info, I'll be doing something similar this afternoon. I have also noticed that the bags rattle quite a bit so I'm going to use some aluminum bar-stock to make supports along the insides of the bags. Here's how it looks today.

View attachment 357121 View attachment 357129 View attachment 357137 View attachment 357145

I'm thinking vertical supports between where the bag bolts to the brackets. This will keep the bags aligned and hopefully reduce vibration/rattling. When I have more disposable income I'll go to a local machinist and see if they can make up something specifically for this since the Viking mounts are heavy as f$$k.
That's a good idea using the angle braces. I just use the three holes in each brkt. bolts with over sized washers. The top holes are the ones to mount the bags to the bike.My bags don't get any vibration. Your bike looks good
Okay, Viking Bags Installation part 2 on the Octane. Just to reiterate, the "universally fits nothing" hardware is passable. As expected, I had to fab up some stuff myself and make a second attempt. I want it to look clean and feel solid. I am definitely going to be doing one more round in the coming months to get the "OEM Look" I want. Anyhow, let's move along.

First, you'll need to make up a template from cardboard to match the shape of the bags. I used this to position where I would like the bags to hang and eyeball clearances on each side. Here's the template lined up with the backside of the back. Holes punched to line up with the brackets.

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Here's a shot of thr brackets, lined up where I wanted them. In order to prevent the bags from rattling and slapping against the mounts - thus breaking off - I also cut up some 1.5" x 1/8" aluminum stock into horizontal supports. After some miles if there's too much vibration I can put an additional hole or two along the aluminum supports to attach the bags. One thing to remember: remove the lower sliding portion of the brackets. Saves some weight and they just interfered with the belt guard anyways.

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After getting everything lined up with the template and the brackets it's time to drill into the bags. Ugh. The one thing I DID NOT want to do, but no way around it. Testing alignment of the supports. I drilled holes that were 3/8" instead of 5/16" (8mm) for wiggle room.

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On to the next step... You know those 4 philip's head bolts they give you? Throw them out. Go to your local hardware store and get 8mm x 1.25mm x 20mm bolts, nylock nuts, and some 1.5" flat washers. Good hardware will make all the difference in supporting the bags. The large flat washers distribute the load against the brackets.

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Then, assemble it all. I used two 1/2" spacers for each bracket to bring them out far enough. I would like to get some spacers that fit more precisely and are a single 1" piece. I guess everyone needs projects...

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We installed these same bags on my brother's Street Bob. Couple things we ran into on that install: 1. the latches suck, he lost an empty backpack and a couple other minor items. 2. Even though we also used fender washers, they cut into the inside of the bag with vibration and one nearly all the way through so maybe something to consider. We also replaced all of the nuts and bolts, what they give doesn't really fit, and that wasn't even a Victory.

Good to see you were able to get them straight as well, we screwed around for half a day and could not get them straight, in the end we just gave up and left them canted inward a bit at the bottom.

In the end, it looks good and clean. If, God forbid, you ever have the thought to set it down on it's side, the bags and brackets will fail, no matter what hardware you use, so keep it upright and consider replacing the latch lever.

Well done and great pics.
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Okay, Viking Bags Installation part 2 on the Octane. Just to reiterate, the "universally fits nothing" hardware is passable. As expected, I had to fab up some stuff myself and make a second attempt. I want it to look clean and feel solid. I am definitely going to be doing one more round in the coming months to get the "OEM Look" I want. Anyhow, let's move along.

First, you'll need to make up a template from cardboard to match the shape of the bags. I used this to position where I would like the bags to hang and eyeball clearances on each side. Here's the template lined up with the backside of the back. Holes punched to line up with the brackets.

View attachment 364833

Here's a shot of thr brackets, lined up where I wanted them. In order to prevent the bags from rattling and slapping against the mounts - thus breaking off - I also cut up some 1.5" x 1/8" aluminum stock into horizontal supports. After some miles if there's too much vibration I can put an additional hole or two along the aluminum supports to attach the bags. One thing to remember: remove the lower sliding portion of the brackets. Saves some weight and they just interfered with the belt guard anyways.

View attachment 364857 View attachment 364865

After getting everything lined up with the template and the brackets it's time to drill into the bags. Ugh. The one thing I DID NOT want to do, but no way around it. Testing alignment of the supports. I drilled holes that were 3/8" instead of 5/16" (8mm) for wiggle room.

View attachment 364873 View attachment 364881

On to the next step... You know those 4 philip's head bolts they give you? Throw them out. Go to your local hardware store and get 8mm x 1.25mm x 20mm bolts, nylock nuts, and some 1.5" flat washers. Good hardware will make all the difference in supporting the bags. The large flat washers distribute the load against the brackets.

View attachment 364897

Then, assemble it all. I used two 1/2" spacers for each bracket to bring them out far enough. I would like to get some spacers that fit more precisely and are a single 1" piece. I guess everyone needs projects...

View attachment 364913 View attachment 364929
Tractor supply is where I got my spacers...
This year I haven't had my bags on, next year I might put em on, and make some fillers with LED lights so the big ass gap doesn't look so stupid
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In the future I would like to make this a "quick removal" system. That means some combination of rails & guides. Time will tell...

Tractor supply is where I got my spacers...
This year I haven't had my bags on, next year I might put em on, and make some fillers with LED lights so the big ass gap doesn't look so stupid
Okay, Viking Bags Installation part 2 on the Octane. Just to reiterate, the "universally fits nothing" hardware is passable. As expected, I had to fab up some stuff myself and make a second attempt. I want it to look clean and feel solid. I am definitely going to be doing one more round in the coming months to get the "OEM Look" I want. Anyhow, let's move along.

First, you'll need to make up a template from cardboard to match the shape of the bags. I used this to position where I would like the bags to hang and eyeball clearances on each side. Here's the template lined up with the backside of the back. Holes punched to line up with the brackets.

View attachment 364833

Here's a shot of thr brackets, lined up where I wanted them. In order to prevent the bags from rattling and slapping against the mounts - thus breaking off - I also cut up some 1.5" x 1/8" aluminum stock into horizontal supports. After some miles if there's too much vibration I can put an additional hole or two along the aluminum supports to attach the bags. One thing to remember: remove the lower sliding portion of the brackets. Saves some weight and they just interfered with the belt guard anyways.

View attachment 364857 View attachment 364865

After getting everything lined up with the template and the brackets it's time to drill into the bags. Ugh. The one thing I DID NOT want to do, but no way around it. Testing alignment of the supports. I drilled holes that were 3/8" instead of 5/16" (8mm) for wiggle room.

View attachment 364873 View attachment 364881

On to the next step... You know those 4 philip's head bolts they give you? Throw them out. Go to your local hardware store and get 8mm x 1.25mm x 20mm bolts, nylock nuts, and some 1.5" flat washers. Good hardware will make all the difference in supporting the bags. The large flat washers distribute the load against the brackets.

View attachment 364897

Then, assemble it all. I used two 1/2" spacers for each bracket to bring them out far enough. I would like to get some spacers that fit more precisely and are a single 1" piece. I guess everyone needs projects...

View attachment 364913 View attachment 364929
Looks good! I used a level ,straight edge, and a white out to mark the brkts. to the bags. I also kept the fender accents on the Bike.
Did you see my video? I'm happy with the way mine turned out and I have no issues with them vibrating loose etc.
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Did you see my video? I'm happy with the way mine turned out and I have no issues with them vibrating loose etc.
Good video, I use all three holes for better support. I also Picked up some shorter bolts from home depot. No clearance or support problems. My bags have been on for a good yr. With no problems.
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oh WOW, thanks to everyone for this thread! I managed to get the right side attached without too many headaches, although it's not as elegant or solid as I'd like since I also did just the 4 instead of all six. The left side flummoxed me, though with how to get that on and clear everything. Can't wait to try getting that other bag attached this weekend
Good video, I use all three holes for better support. I also Picked up some shorter bolts from home depot. No clearance or support problems. My bags have been on for a good yr. With no problems.
I also used shorter bolts I picked up from a local hardware store, but one thing that I did have happen was that one has already pulled through the hole. I'll need to attach some washers to hopefully help with that.
If you're going to use washers to prevent it from pulling through the leather ( assume that's what your're talking about) I personally would prefer a piece of flat stock that would go across multiple holes.. it helps brace the bag and give a much more solid backing than just a washer.
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If you're going to use washers to prevent it from pulling through the leather ( assume that's what your're talking about) I personally would prefer a piece of flat stock that would go across multiple holes.. it helps brace the bag and give a much more solid backing than just a washer.
EXCELLENT suggestion, didn't even think about doing that. Thanks for the advice!
If you're going to use washers to prevent it from pulling through the leather ( assume that's what your're talking about) I personally would prefer a piece of flat stock that would go across multiple holes.. it helps brace the bag and give a much more solid backing than just a washer.
I used 1.5 inch diameter stainless washers. No problems here.
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