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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't want spend weeks searching and comparing speakers. I am looking for something that is a direct fit no modifications to the front speaker enclosures. I would be using Polyfill behind the speaker . and for the rear since there isn't any protection a foam baffle. I tried a few speakers and the magnets were too large and would not fit. from some history I have in car stereo. Believe it or not the best sounding system I have ever heard had no front tweeters only woofers. I was truly amazed how we are conditioned to think that we need something when in most cases the condition or environment we are in really dictates something else.

But the point is I am looking for 5.25 direct fit, coax or woofer, if its a coax I will disconnect the tweeter. I know what some may think just turn down the treble. Not that easy the treble on the radio is a pretty large frequency range.

I still think the best sound comes from a SENA 20 or newer. But I thought during quiet slow back roads use the radio and on freeway or touring use the SENA. .
 

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Following....I’d like to do something similar.
 

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Polk MM series ? Small but powerful magnet.
Cycle tunes
Kicker.
 

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Polk MM
Cycle Sounds
Kicker
 

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If i could make a suggestion...

Get on this facebook page, and ask your question, I think you will get a better response.

Log into Facebook | Facebook

Copied and pasted from that page:

The key speaker characteristics to look for when purchasing speakers:

RMS wattage match that with the RMS wattage of your amplifier....

Frequency range try to get a speaker that plays the frequency range of the sound you're wanting to reproduce.

Humans can hear from 20hz-20khz.... So when looking at a system all of your speakers on your bike combined should reproduce most of those frequencies, it's hard to get any speaker outside a subwoofer to play below 50 hertz...

DB Sensitivity is basically the loudness or volume of a speaker. It is measured by placing a microphone three feet away from a speaker and playing a 1 watt sound. The higher the DB sensitivity rating the louder that speaker plays with 1 watt. Try to get speakers with the highest sensitivity rating you can afford and that match your RMS wattage. Speakers below 90 decibels should never be used in motorcycle audio unless they are a subwoofer, speakers from 91 to 95 decibels are okay but they will be difficult to hear when riding, speakers from 96 decibels and up are recommended when writing they will be loud and clear with the proper amplification.
 

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I think he just wants a stock replacement Maxx.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If i could make a suggestion...

Get on this facebook page, and ask your question, I think you will get a better response.

Log into Facebook | Facebook

Copied and pasted from that page:

The key speaker characteristics to look for when purchasing speakers:

RMS wattage match that with the RMS wattage of your amplifier....

Frequency range try to get a speaker that plays the frequency range of the sound you're wanting to reproduce.

Humans can hear from 20hz-20khz.... So when looking at a system all of your speakers on your bike combined should reproduce most of those frequencies, it's hard to get any speaker outside a subwoofer to play below 50 hertz...

DB Sensitivity is basically the loudness or volume of a speaker. It is measured by placing a microphone three feet away from a speaker and playing a 1 watt sound. The higher the DB sensitivity rating the louder that speaker plays with 1 watt. Try to get speakers with the highest sensitivity rating you can afford and that match your RMS wattage. Speakers below 90 decibels should never be used in motorcycle audio unless they are a subwoofer, speakers from 91 to 95 decibels are okay but they will be difficult to hear when riding, speakers from 96 decibels and up are recommended when writing they will be loud and clear with the proper amplification.
Tanks I am aware if all that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If i could make a suggestion...

Get on this facebook page, and ask your question, I think you will get a better response.

Log into Facebook | Facebook

Copied and pasted from that page:

The key speaker characteristics to look for when purchasing speakers:

RMS wattage match that with the RMS wattage of your amplifier....

Frequency range try to get a speaker that plays the frequency range of the sound you're wanting to reproduce.

Humans can hear from 20hz-20khz.... So when looking at a system all of your speakers on your bike combined should reproduce most of those frequencies, it's hard to get any speaker outside a subwoofer to play below 50 hertz...

DB Sensitivity is basically the loudness or volume of a speaker. It is measured by placing a microphone three feet away from a speaker and playing a 1 watt sound. The higher the DB sensitivity rating the louder that speaker plays with 1 watt. Try to get speakers with the highest sensitivity rating you can afford and that match your RMS wattage. Speakers below 90 decibels should never be used in motorcycle audio unless they are a subwoofer, speakers from 91 to 95 decibels are okay but they will be difficult to hear when riding, speakers from 96 decibels and up are recommended when writing they will be loud and clear with the proper amplification.
I already have a design planned out. You do not have to spend allot of money to have a better than stock sounding system. The plans are, front imaging probably only mids at about 60HZ HP at 24db per octave. The sharp cut off gives the woofer some thump while removing most of the lowers frequency. in real world application., Having tweeters in an environment that is not controlled like during riding is not useful. Unless your parked and just like to listen to it. The mids provide enough rang and the frequency in tweeter are more directional and efficient so they almost always over power a system in a motorcycles. Unless you have speakers you can attenuate. equalization is out of the question in this environment.

Rear woofers will have band pass frequency as they are only fill. powered by the stock radio. A small sub woofer I can remove with a small over lap in frequency with the front mids. LP will be at about 80HZ with less roll off at 18db per octave. from prior experience a smooth roll off blends in nicely.

I will not be using one of those Mini amps as they do not have enough head room and not enough flexibility in the cross over section.. Using high level in puts is not the way to go. The frequencies are erratic and all over the place. Using a good quality LOC gives a much flatter frequency response. and over balance is better.

Short design description- 4 channel amp with tri-mode capable. to front mid speakers 60hz HP, bridged channel to one sub woofer 70-80hz LP and rear speakers woofers run off stock radio with passive band pass crossover. still researching components but the general design is solid and simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think he just wants a stock replacement Maxx.
well it started with just simple stock upgrades for power for me also, Look what happened I ended up at Lloydz with cams and the works. It happened again I was looking for simple speakers and tried a few but the ones I tried to did not do it. I had to go a bit higher in my wallet to get the sound I wanted. Herts DCX 130.3 and ECX 130.3 for the rear. They come in next week. Now I may go with an amp to take advantage of these great speakers. As far as the ones I looked at and options. I liked the Rockford PB 300X4amp. I said I would not go mini but the actual test we did on them was very close to the birth sheet. Others Like kicker ,alpine and soundstream not even close to their quoted rating. Another off brand that did well was MVX micro V exceeded the rating. Waiting for and under 99.00 on the Rockford and it will happen. They are already dropped to 99.00 on Amazon.
 

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The PBR300/4 should drive those speakers just fine.
I’m running an ARC Moto 600/4
IMO it’s one of the best and coolest running amps for power sports.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thats a good Choice. I just got the Hertz speakers which supposed to fit and no, the fronts the magnets to wide and hit the inner speaker box. so returning them. Just a never ending search . tried a few which were lack luster. Finally today had enough and ordered on Amazon Polk MM1 fronts that are shallow and Polk DB for rear fill. with a small amp just for back roads. I plan on band passing the rears. and up front 60hz HP. thats just a starting point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Will they sound better & louder than stock? (Without an amp)
I think anything aftermarket will sound better. The limiting factor would be the radio output. stock radios have a horrid roll off that's why speakers sound thin and even capable speakers that can handle lower frequencies may not sound good. It just depends what your after. I still claim the best sound is from helmet Bluetooth.

Several systems I have listened too that the rider claimed sounded great, was just really loud. and had no real dynamic range. But I admit that the goal was to hear it through all the Noise coming from the bikes. My plan has been modified a bit. I am keeping the system simple . Just for back road riding I would listen to the bike system and on the free way My Sena.

building a good sounding system in an environment you cant control it is futile. It may sound different every time. I must say the street glide CVO stage 3 system did sound pretty good on a test ride. tI may had more to do with speaker placement.
 

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Thats a good Choice. I just got the Hertz speakers which supposed to fit and no, the fronts the magnets to wide and hit the inner speaker box. so returning them. Just a never ending search . tried a few which were lack luster. Finally today had enough and ordered on Amazon Polk MM1 fronts that are shallow and Polk DB for rear fill. with a small amp just for back roads. I plan on band passing the rears. and up front 60hz HP. thats just a starting point.
Take out the inner speaker box and any speaker will fit. Use dyno tape around the edge or put a baffel cover over it if you want. Hertz are nice and clear but no depth or bottom push. We did a speaker head to head over here. Up close. On the highway and far away. The foagate and focals out did the hertz for the sound depth we wanted to hear. All three were crystal clear. All three fit.
 

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I agree on the Hertz HCX165s. Although a good speaker it didn’t seem to do well in a XC fairing no matter what I did.
Since I installed Magnum lids with ARC Moto 692’s in the rear that gave me the bass and depth I was looking for. Even on the road I could actually hear a difference. Excellent speakers. I have since in stalled Hertz Mille Pro 6.5 in the dash. The difference is in believable at volume and on the open road. You can hear these. They are loud and more dynamic in range that other coaxials. Concentric design is perfect for front stage while the big honkin ARCs fill the rear.
Parked or in the garage the sound coming from my bike is the best it’s ever been. Thanks in addition to the Yankphan prepped JVC head unit I now run with 600/4 Arc amp. Couldn’t be happier.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Take out the inner speaker box and any speaker will fit. Use dyno tape around the edge or put a baffel cover over it if you want. Hertz are nice and clear but no depth or bottom push. We did a speaker head to head over here. Up close. On the highway and far away. The foagate and focals out did the hertz for the sound depth we wanted to hear. All three were crystal clear. All three fit.
I did not want to modify the rear enclosure . The only real alteration I am making is the wiring. I did not like the way wichdoctors did his you tube install. I got 9 wire and am tapping into the radio wire harness for out put and input to amp and speakers.
 
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