Victory Vegas Jackpot 106 Engine Oil Drain Plug (Stripped Threads) | Victory Motorcycles: Motorcycle Forums

Victory Vegas Jackpot 106 Engine Oil Drain Plug (Stripped Threads)

Discussion in 'Victory Jackpot' started by jmoe, Apr 5, 2017.

  1. jmoe

    jmoe New Member

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    Hello my bothers/sisters and if your reading this then perhaps your not very happy but not to worry. I sincerely hope I can provide a comprehensive means to help you work through this perhaps saving time, money and your emotions. Please kindly take a little of your time to rate my submission and provide comment or question so we can help "THEVOG" become the best resource and interaction group online. I learned so much from people just like you and hope to share my knowledge/experiences with you in return.

    Yes, the infamous drain plug (thread stripping) strikes again. I'm an certified aircraft technician with a background in automotive, motorcycle and boat engine maintenance and repair.

    While doing research on the subject I noticed many inconsistencies in the suggested repairs and reference errors to products out there so I thought that it might be very helpful to others in sharing what I learned while resolving the oil drain plug repair. This community thread attempts to describe what I did to achieve better than OEM results and not in any way to promote product or repair scheme as it's yours to decide.

    The cause- 2013 Victory Vegas Jackpot (106) dealer serviced/changed oil/filter at about 450, 4500 miles (warranty) and change at about 7500 miles was to be accomplished by me. I decided to incorporate the "Dimple" magnetic plug during this change and hopefully trap any unwanted ferrous (magnetic) material. Using OEM Polaris oil filter P/N 2540086 and Victory Semi-Synthetic 20w-40 engine oil (4.5 quarts) kit P/N 2879600 and Dimple magnetic plug M12x1.5x12R/with aluminum crush washer. Reference was made to the Victory owners manual page 51 maintenance procedure. Removing the 6mm hexagonal internal wrenching plug was uneventful and did not seem over torqued. Oil now drained/old filter removed, I installed the new Dimple magnetic plug (w/washer) finger tight with no indication of any thread damage, new oil filter and serviced oil to proper level. Note! The "Dimple' drain plug did not specify a modified torque value on the product, website or with the seller "Witchdoctor" but I was advised that the OEM torque value should be used. Using a calibrated click type torque wrench (used on aircraft) I set the torque value to the OEM specification 15ft/lbs. I began torquing and just before hitting the 15ft./lbs target value the feedback pressure on the torque wrench dropped off at about 12 ft./lbs (best guess). Now, thinking perhaps the aluminum crush washer on the dimple plug must have failed or worse I stopped torquing and began to back off the plug. While doing so I noticed the Dimple washer had collapsed on one side (suspect and later confirmed air bubble in the crush washer material) causing plug to tilt under torque whereby cutting threads out of the engine case oil sump drain causing threads to come out with plug and newly added oil.

    At this point I was hovering: (1) Damage to my bike oil sump drain, (2) $40 for the Dimple magnetic plug, (3) $60 for the oil kit and (4) hundreds for the repair/time which when completed would also require another $60 oil kit. Topping it all off I now have an unusable Dimple magnetic oil drain plug/seal which was damaged in the process and remarkably I did everything exactly as I should have. In fact, I even took my calibrated torque wrench in to be tested/verified and it passed with me physically watching the calibration test (had no doubt but the idea of trust/verify was in order). Wisdom defined "we should learn from other peoples mistakes because we don't live long enough to make them all ourselves".

    Have since contacted Dimple and Witchdoctor twice but no response thus far except that they will get back to me. Update! 7 Apr 2017 Witchdoctor contacted me today expressing sincere apology for my difficulties and have forwarded this matter to their technical support for evaluation/resolution.

    Furthermore, I cannot locate the part number for the Dimple "suspected culprit" aluminum crush washer (you would think people might need this) for future oil changes. Talked to the local VIC dealer and was advised that this is a common problem even using the OEM plug. He further advised me of a couple of repair methods costing a nice chunk of $$$ change. One involves lifting the bike (strapping) and another having to lay the bike down on its side to do the work.

    My fix- First you have to gain clear/safe access to the plug from the bottom of the engine. Not having a pit to work over, I found justification now to buy an inexpensive highly rated motorcycle jack from Northern Tool which FREE SHIPPING — Strongway Hydraulic Motorcycle Jack/Utility Vehicle Lift — 1,500-Lb. Capacity, 5 1/8in.–16 1/8in. Lift Range | Motorcycle Lifts| Northern Tool + Equipment (did not want to lay my bike on its side). Purchased the jack on sale and found a coupon online to save more. Turned out to be a great jack, very stable and even has strap loops. I suggest you (put rubber/wood) shims under to level before lifting. Recommend you lift from the tailpipe (right) side so you have room to work and it balanced better for me. Position the jack forward enough to use the frame, using shims on the left side (I used rubber) noting that the rear arm of this jack will lift on the engine hard point just forward of the oil filter housing (not on it). This jack has two mechanical safety locks however, I put scrap 6x6 wood into the jack scissors when elevated and used straps secured to the jack loops to provide another level of safety margin (your comfort level).

    There are repair kits out there using Heli-coil, oversize and one that AZ Vic sells (pros/cons/cost and preference). I went for the "Time sert" repair for greater reliability and to restore my drain plug to OEM M12x1.5x12R specifications. I wanted a fully locked steel insert back to OEM tolerances not to modify beyond repair. Also note there may be differences on certain Victory engine models, DOM/Size/Application with respect to engine drains. Mine being a 2013 Vegas Jackpot (106) used an OEM P/N 7052306 PLUG-SOCKET,M12X1.5 DIN 908A oil drain plug.

    After more research I selected a "Time Sert" 1215C (12x1.5) drain repair kit for aluminum case installations using M12x1.5x9.2mm inserts. The kit comes with 5 ea. 9.2mm carbon steel inserts and all the tooling (i.e. drill bit, drill guide, tapered counter-sink tool, tap, insert installation tool, instructions). You will need some cutting oil and perhaps a tap handle (note typical 1/2" tap handle may not open wide enough to hold tooling, mine did not and limited work space on jack is a factor). As a work around I used another method described below. CAUTION!!!!--CAUTION!! (Not yelling at you but defiantly trying to get your attention). When drilling out damaged threads be sure to use a "drill stop and care" to prevent drill from plunging too deep into the hole and perhaps damaging internal oil sump components (visible through the drain hole just above where you will be drilling) !!!!. The "TIme-cert" instructions show hand drilling and countersinking however, in my opinion the room for error in hand drilling increased the probability of drilling elongated hole and countersinking requires numerous consistent turns that a electric drill motor can provide under positive control. Again use a properly adjusted drill stop and do it only as fast as you can maintain positive control.

    In my case, I used a variable speed 18V Dewalt battery operated drill motor, the drill guide (focused attention to keep it square) and built up some electrical tape around/on the drill bit itself as a simple soft drill stop that would not allow the drill bit to plunge no deeper than 1/2" (half-inch) into the hole while drilling out the remaining old threads. Keep in mind that the insert is only 9.2 mm long which is 0.362", so a 1/2" (0.500 plunge is more than enough. I also used grease on the drill bit to catch shavings/fragments.

    After drilling/cleaning fragments, it was time to use the countersink (read kit instructions) noting the countersink entering the drilled hole will not impact anything inside as it has its own stop (check for yourself by sticking the opposite end in an noting the clearance as I did). Be sure to countersink to the full depth as it will self stop when held square. Don't panic here as this is critical since the collar on the insert must lay flush in this countersink so make sure you have attained full depth.

    Now its time by hand (No drill) to tap so I again used the tap guide, inserted the tap with grease on the tip and began to finger start, then using the "dog bone ratchet" I continued the process holding the tap guide and tap square with one hand and turning with the other. When encountering heavy resistance I backed the tap out, cleaned, reapplied grease and continued until I felt the resistance diminish. Removed the tap again, cleaned and applied grease and finger tightened the tap back through the threads to clean them up and catch any remaining shavings. Note! As I was inserting the tapered tap (by hand) I felt it just touch the interior component at just about 1" of depth but you have to get near this point with the tap to get beyond the taper. Used "Q-tips to clean the threads and finally poured some of the old engine oil I just removed (no fragments) to flush afterwards. Old engine oil re-purposed into a flush to remove any other metal particles that might be present made me feel better. FYI, the good news is that the grease trick worked well as there was only two small aluminum particles smaller than a grain of salt in the flush pan. As an additional precaution I do plan to do an early oil/filter change as well but that's the aircraft technician coming out in me.

    Insert- The insert tool must be turned in slowly (by hand) and you will feel it briefly tighten up as it cold forms/expands the innermost last three threads of the insert (see time-set instructions/video) and after a few more turns it will loosen again before touching in interior oil sump component at about 1". I did a couple of dry fits with the insert on my finger (do not force) and cleaned the threads again. I did notice the collar was barely elevated from flush where my fingernail could grab but after applying time-cert thread lock on the inserts outer threads and fully inserting with the tool it went perfectly flush. Special Note! Be sure to oil only the insert tool and "not" the insert outer threads which should be clean and later coated with 6020 thread lock.

    Again I stress for you to check out the time-sert videos at their website which are very helpful.
    ++ TIME-SERT Official Threaded inserts for stripped threads, blown out sparkplugs,

    Finally- I used a liberal amount of time-sert 6020 thread lock (500 deg temp rating vs lock-tite 300 deg) on the outer threads of the insert only (thoroughly clean the threads on both the oil case and insert outer threads with isopropol alcohol). Make sure you allow at least 24 hours for the time-sert 6020 thread lock to cure before adding oil and installing plug.

    My job worked out perfect, flush insert, no leaks and solid torque with steel to steel thread contact now better than OEM. Lovin it now!

    Time-sert 1215C KIt
    Amazon.com: Time-Sert M12x1.5 drain pan repair kit # 1215C: Automotive

    Time-sert 12151 xtra inserts M12x1.5x9.2mm (10 ea.) - Note description specifies insert kit 1251C.
    Amazon.com: TIME-SERT M12x1.5x9.2mm Insert QTY 10 p/n 12151: Automotive

    TIme-sert 6020 Thread locker 500deg temp rating
    Amazon.com: Time-Sert 6020 thread locker & sealer 500 DEGREES: Automotive

    Researched K&N Oil filters P/N KN-198 are equal to or perhaps better than Polaris OEM 2540086 oil filters. Do like the heavy metal can, resin impregnated cellulose filter media, which allows for higher flow rates while providing outstanding filtration and 17 mm nut. No specifications could be found on OEM filter. Must read.
    Victory Cruiser Bike and Polaris ATV Users Have Premium Oil Filter Choice With K&N

    Victory 20w-40 Semi-Synthetic Oil versus Amsoil 20w-40 Full Synthetic New Product Must Read.
    Amsoil 20W-40 Synthetic Oil for Victory & Indian Motorcycles

    Hope this helps somebody out there! If so please take the time to rate my submission or drop me a message if I can help.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2017
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  2. John_R

    John_R Member

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    Nice write up. Personally, I went to a self tapping, double oversized bolt when I stripped mine out (07 JP) but this is the right way to correct this.
     
  3. danapellerin

    danapellerin Active Member

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    I stripped mine out with a Dimple plug as well. I took it to a shop here in Fresno that is known for drag and land speed racing, and they just rethreaded it and put a headless plug in it. I was kind of surprised because I expected them to go the heli_coil or timesert route. But hey, it doesn't leak!
     
  4. bikendad

    bikendad Well-Known Member

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    Yep Time-sert is best fix, did mine with a heli-coil in a pinch. Now I pump my oil out with a mity-vac.
     
  5. rustychevelle

    rustychevelle Active Member

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    So what is a "certified aircraft mechanic"? I thought that you had to have a license (A&P), to work on civilian aircraft.
     
  6. jmoldovan

    jmoldovan New Member

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    You are right with the (A&P) however it's not a license. It's a certificate issued by the FAA. You have two certifications: (1) Airframe mechanic and (2) Powerplant mechanic. Typically when a person holds both A&P certificate the term "certified aircraft mechanic" is often used in the industry. Here is a like Become a Mechanic
     
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  7. Gunner99

    Gunner99 Member

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    JMOE. Did you have trouble getting the jack under your bike? Specs on it say 5 1/8th clearance. My gunner is only 4.7 inches off ground. I think all steel frame bikes from '08 to '17 would be the same. Granted, if sliding jack from exhaust side, due to it leaning other direction, jack would fit, but would not go all way. Or do you just put it up on 2X4 wood blocks to get the extra height?
     
  8. TaterSalad

    TaterSalad Active Member

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    What size did you go to?
     
  9. KLA

    KLA Well-Known Member

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    I pull my Jackpot up on a couple of blocks. That's the only way to get the MC lift under my bike
     
  10. jmoe

    jmoe New Member

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    Gunner 99: My lift slid under my bike without any blocks. Perhaps you may need blocks as you suggest depending on your lift specifications. I use two footlong 6x6 fence post blocks wedged carefully under my frame just behind the front pegs to hold the bike centered upright in a stable position before jacking. These blocks are also helpful in another way to hold the bike level to drain and service oil whereby eliminating the use of kickstand.
     
  11. jmoe

    jmoe New Member

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    Check in the body of my write up as I provide all of the size specification I used in the repair.
     
  12. Flyboy

    Flyboy Well-Known Member

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    Is this “Dimple Plug” a common denominator?
     
  13. jmoe

    jmoe New Member

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    Yes, the dimple plug was involved. I used a calibrated torque wrench but it still stripped out well below torque specification.
     
  14. Flyboy

    Flyboy Well-Known Member

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    I was looking at the Brothers that had the same issue and if theirs was with a dimple plug as well. That said and if true, I wonder about the manufacturing threading of plug being to spec...

    Just a thought as I still have the one that came with the bike.
     

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