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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The victory oil change kit has four quarts of 20/40 semithetic oil ,.and one small ,16 ounce container, plus an oil filter. I know that you pour all four quarts of oil into the engine, but do you also pour the whole 16 ounce bottle of oil into the engine if the oil filter is with out any oil when you install it on the engine?
 

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You "SHOULD" use all of the bottles, including the small one. But many people only need 4 qts when changing the oil. Put the four 4 qts in, run the engine briefly to circulate the oil, then check the oil level. Add as needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Be sure to wait 10 minutes before checking oil after running engine to give the oil a chance to drain down into the sump where the dipstick takes a reading or you may end up overfilling it.

Better yet; take a reading the next morning if you aren't going anywhere.
I meant to say this: I run the engine for 2 minutes after adding the right amount of oil, and oil filter plus the engine cases are still warm after a ride , but won't burn my fingers when I try to remove the oil plug. I then shut the engine off. Right after I do this, I then check the oil level on the dip stick.
 

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I usually run the engine for 2 minutes when it's cold ,and at the first start up, then shut the engine off. Right after I do this, I then check the oil level on the dip stick.
Then you're doing it wrong. It takes a little bit for the oil to drain back down into the sump. The hotter the oil the quicker it drains down.

Everyone should already know the bike needs to be vertical and not over on the kickstand when checking oil level.
 

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Be sure to wait 10 minutes before checking oil after running engine to give the oil a chance to drain down into the sump where the dipstick takes a reading or you may end up overfilling it.

Better yet; take a reading the next morning if you aren't going anywhere.
Red X because you need to check your oil level after allowing the bike to warm up. If you wait overnight to check your oil it will appear to be low because the oil will be cold/room temp. Oil thins out when at temp, which is why you should always check the level after warming the engine up to operating temperature.

If 60-90 degrees F outside/in my garage, I'll idle for 5 minutes, then let it sit for 5 minutes, then check the oil level.
 

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Hard to believe I actually have to explain how to do an oil change on a forum with so many experienced bike riders but it is what it is I guess. This is from an 03-06 Steel Frame bike Service Manual. They are all about the same though.

1. Start and run engine until it reaches normal operating
temperature. Stop engine.
2. Securely support the motorcycle on the sidestand.
3. Place an oil drain pan under drain plug (A) and oil filter
(B).
4. Remove drain plug and sealing washer using a good
quality 6mm Allen socket.
After an oil change, the low oil pressure indicator re-
mains illuminated longer than usual before going
out. Do not increase engine RPM above idle until oil
pressure indicator is not illuminated or engine may
be damaged.
5. Allow oil to drain completely. 13. Stop engine.
6. Remove filter with a filter wrench, strap wrench, or
adjustable pliers. 14. Wait 3-5 minutes before checking oil level.
7. Clean drain plug sealing surface and reinstall drain
plug with a new sealing washer. 16. Check for leaks around drain plug and oil filter.
Drain Plug Torque:
20 Nm (15 ft-lbs)
8. Clean any residue or debris from oil filter sealing
surface and threads.
9. Make sure filter gasket is properly seated in new oil
filter. Apply a thin film of clean engine oil to gasket.
Screw filter on until gasket contacts the sealing
surface. Tighten filter by hand an additional 3/4 turn.
10. Remove dipstick and install a funnel or filler spout.
11. Fill crankcase through dipstick hole with specified
amount of Victory Semi-Synthetic 20W-40 Motor Oil,
or an equivalent.
12. Reinstall dipstick. Start and run engine until it reaches
normal operating temperature.

13. Stop engine.
14. Wait 3-5 minutes before checking oil level.
15. Adjust oil level as required.

Now what it doesn't say is to check the oil when it's cold so you know what level it should be when you check it in the future to know you have the right level of oil.

Do it however way you want as long as it gets done on a regular basis but if you want to make it easy on yourself; you will check it the next morning when you know the level is exactly at the full mark so you have a reference. I don't bother checking it hot because that's not how I check my oil level on a routine basis.

These service manuals are written for people who don't know a Phillips from a Flat Blade so they hold the hand of the reader more than they would if they knew their readers were experienced mechanics.

Red X that all you want.

FWIW; neither one of my Vic's use more than a half quart between oil changes so I don't check the oil levels very often until they are least half way through an oil change interval and if I see it's consistently the same; I just wait till the next oil change if it's within 1000 miles.

YMMV, JMHO, Okie Dokie.
 

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Hard to believe I actually have to explain how to do an oil change on a forum with so many experienced bike riders but it is what it is I guess. This is from an 03-06 Steel Frame bike Service Manual. They are all about the same though.

1. Start and run engine until it reaches normal operating
temperature. Stop engine.
2. Securely support the motorcycle on the sidestand.
3. Place an oil drain pan under drain plug (A) and oil filter
(B).
4. Remove drain plug and sealing washer using a good
quality 6mm Allen socket.
After an oil change, the low oil pressure indicator re-
mains illuminated longer than usual before going
out. Do not increase engine RPM above idle until oil
pressure indicator is not illuminated or engine may
be damaged.
5. Allow oil to drain completely. 13. Stop engine.
6. Remove filter with a filter wrench, strap wrench, or
adjustable pliers. 14. Wait 3-5 minutes before checking oil level.
7. Clean drain plug sealing surface and reinstall drain
plug with a new sealing washer. 16. Check for leaks around drain plug and oil filter.
Drain Plug Torque:
20 Nm (15 ft-lbs)
8. Clean any residue or debris from oil filter sealing
surface and threads.
9. Make sure filter gasket is properly seated in new oil
filter. Apply a thin film of clean engine oil to gasket.
Screw filter on until gasket contacts the sealing
surface. Tighten filter by hand an additional 3/4 turn.
10. Remove dipstick and install a funnel or filler spout.
11. Fill crankcase through dipstick hole with specified
amount of Victory Semi-Synthetic 20W-40 Motor Oil,
or an equivalent.
12. Reinstall dipstick. Start and run engine until it reaches
normal operating temperature.

13. Stop engine.
14. Wait 3-5 minutes before checking oil level.
15. Adjust oil level as required.

Now what it doesn't say is to check the oil when it's cold so you know what level it should be when you check it in the future to know you have the right level of oil.

Do it however way you want as long as it gets done on a regular basis but if you want to make it easy on yourself; you will check it the next morning when you know the level is exactly at the full mark so you have a reference. I don't bother checking it hot because that's not how I check my oil level on a routine basis.

These service manuals are written for people who don't know a Phillips from a Flat Blade so they hold the hand of the reader more than they would if they knew their readers were experienced mechanics.

Red X that all you want.

FWIW; neither one of my Vic's use more than a half quart between oil changes so I don't check the oil levels very often until they are least half way through an oil change interval and if I see it's consistently the same; I just wait till the next oil change if it's within 1000 miles.

YMMV, JMHO, Okie Dokie.
Ah I think if you had phrased your initial post differently I would not have had to disagree. Maybe edit it and say something like, Once you know your oil is at the right level let the bike sit overnight then check it again such that you can place a hash mark on your dipstick as to where the level is when both full and cold.

If you read your post like a person other than you would, you make it sound like it's best to just wait until the bike is cold to check the level.
 

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I said it the way I meant to right from the start. An experienced mechanic is not going to run the engine to get the oil hot then check the oil level. He will check it cold and fill according. Then either put his tools away and call it a day or wash up and hop on the bike for a ride.

An inexperienced and new bike owner may choose to do it the way the manual says but it isn't necessary. A really new rider should probably do it the way the manual says at least one time so they can see how much the oil level will change on the dipstick from when the oil is hot and when it's cold but after that one time there should be no need.
 

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I said it the way I meant to right from the start. An experienced mechanic is not going to run the engine to get the oil hot then check the oil level. He will check it cold and fill according. Then either put his tools away and call it a day or wash up and hop on the bike for a ride.

An inexperienced and new bike owner may choose to do it the way the manual says but it isn't necessary. A really new rider should probably do it the way the manual says at least one time so they can see how much the oil level will change on the dipstick from when the oil is hot and when it's cold but after that one time there should be no need.
Hmm, so if you change your oil you wait until the next morning before you check the oil level and go for a ride? Also, how do you think every shop in the world would do it? They aren't going to keep someones bike overnight to let it cool down to check the oil. I guess in your view all of those shops are inexperienced mechanics?
 

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If someone had told me this morning I would be having this conversation having to explain myself on something so basic on a Victory forum; I would have laughed out loud.

I'm pretty sure even the least experienced tech at any given dealership or shop knows how to check the oil cold; as in when they first fill it up, start it one time for 30 seconds or so to let the filter fill up, then let it sit 5-10 minutes depending on what else they have going on, it could be longer, then check and fill accordingly but if they have any real experience changing oil, and that's the job they give to all noobs, they quickly learn or were taught to fill with X amount per model and year.

If they are consistent in their work they won't have to add any more oil. All techs/mechs do oil changes in the course of their work on bikes but if the bike is in the shop for basic maintenance; the new guy generally gets that job. At least that was my experience when I worked in a bike shop (Honda/Kawasaki) years ago.

Look, I'm not really trying to be a smart ass, but I know I come across that way sometimes; especially on silly subjects IMHO. Pay me no mind. I'm really just trying to help. Seriously.
 

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I check the oil cold after I filled it up. The difference between hot and cold is probably pretty little. This is better than what I do for my car. I just dump the 5qt jug in, look underneath to make sure nothing is coming back out, then start it and put it back in it's parking spot. As long as there's not a stream of oil, I won't check it for awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Kevinx say use 4 and 1/4 no more. Check oil with bike vertical. Screw dipstick in and then out to read oil level
I posted how I checked my oil level wrong. When I've been riding and I've reached 3,000 miles that's when I change my oil and oil filter. Because the oil drain plug is too hot to touch after I get back from riding, I wait a while until the oil is still really warm and the bottom of the engine is still really warm too, but not hot enough to burn my fingers when I try to insert and allen head wrench into the drain plug. After I've filled to oil filter with oi and installed it, I then add 4 quarts of oil and 1/4 of a quart of oil also. I then start up the engine and let if run for 2 minutes to see if I have leak around the drain plug or the oil filter. Because the metal on the engine is still warm, and running the oil that I've poured into the engine and ran the engine for a couple of minutes I assumed that the oil warm warm enough to properly check the oil level. Now I see that I should check the oil level when the cylinder fins are really hot to touch. Because my oil level hasn't change on several times that I've let the engine cool down for a while and then checked the oil level while it's still warm to the touch, I only check my level now when I do an oil change.
 

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Now I see that I should check the oil level when the cylinder fins are really hot to touch. Because my oil level hasn't change on several times that I've let the engine cool down for a while and then checked the oil level while it's still warm to the touch, I only check my level now when I do an oil change.
If you're really anal about it you could check it when super hot. It's not like it matters to the oil level very much between super hot, hot, warm, or room temperature. Oil doesn't expand and contract that much. Some; but not so much that it's going to make a huge difference. Gas expands a lot. I know because I've filled my tank up to the rim only to see it start coming out the overflow when the sun beats on it for a while on a hot day. I saw it ruin a friends paint job once too. Man was he pissed. He did the paint job himself and was quite proud of it. We were young and not too bright back then so we at least learned something. Always fill your tank up on the way out of town; not when you first stop. If you stop for lunch; wait till you leave before filling up. That kind of thing. Sure never forgot that lesson...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
If you're really anal about it you could check it when super hot. It's not like it matters to the oil level very much between super hot, hot, warm, or room temperature. Oil doesn't expand and contract that much. Some; but not so much that it's going to make a huge difference. Gas expands a lot. I know because I've filled my tank up to the rim only to see it start coming out the overflow when the sun beats on it for a while on a hot day. I saw it ruin a friends paint job once too. Man was he pissed. He did the paint job himself and was quite proud of it. We were young and not too bright back then so we at least learned something. Always fill your tank up on the way out of town; not when you first stop. If you stop for lunch; wait till you leave before filling up. That kind of thing. Sure never forgot that lesson...
I fired the engine up when it was cold,and let it idle until the cylinders were really hot touch, Then waited 15 minutes to check the oil level again on the dip stick ,and with me sitting on the bike at vertical, the oil level was just a 1/4 of an inch above the full mark line.
 

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I fired the engine up when it was cold,and let it idle until the cylinders were really hot touch, Then waited 15 minutes to check the oil level again on the dip stick ,and with me sitting on the bike at vertical, the oil level was just a 1/4 of an inch above the full mark line.
So if I understand you correctly; the oil was at the full mark at ambient temperature then when you warmed it up to hot it was 1/4" above the full mark so now you know the difference between hot and ambient (cold) and no longer need to warm it up to hot to check it.

You can fill it up to 1/4" below the full mark so when it's hot it will sit right at the full mark until some oil is used by the engine in some way or if you're one of the lucky ones; it will stay that way until you change the oil again.
 
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