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Hi Guys, I've googled and searched here. Can't seem to find a description of my unknown issue. Is it an issue?

During downshifting 3>2 and 2>1, about 1500rpm its seems to go neutral and then back into gear while decelerating. Whats going on here? Is it a feature? Is it a bug? Is it they way Vic transmissions "just are".

Thanks guys.
Wade
 

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Hi Guys, I've googled and searched here. Can't seem to find a description of my unknown issue. Is it an issue?

During downshifting 3>2 and 2>1, about 1500rpm its seems to go neutral and then back into gear while decelerating. Whats going on here? Is it a feature? Is it a bug? Is it they way Vic transmissions "just are".

Thanks guys.
Wade
I am not saying it's this but maybe look into the neutral assist if your bike is equipped.
 

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On deceleration, the injectors are off... Somewhere between 1750 or 1500 rpm they come back on. At that point it feels like the engine braking has stopped. Normal. Don't decelerate down to that low an rpm and you'll never feel it.
 

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On deceleration, the injectors are off... Somewhere between 1750 or 1500 rpm the come back on. At that point it feels like the engine braking has stopped. Normal. Don't decelerate down to that low an rpm and you'll never feel it.
That's so half crazy it must be true. Never thought about that cuz my bike doesn't like those rpms. Clutch is usually in by that point.
 
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I was wondering myself why let rpm get that low. I can say I don't always shift up above 3k like everyone has said is good but I can also say I don't get below 2k rpm ever.
 

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My issue:
Big assed engine, 1/4 turn throttle, conjoined throttle body adaptor... so at anything below 2000 rpm it is very hard to modulate the throttle on/off gently enough. It's like a wall switch -- on or off -- holding steady at 1500-2000 rpm will work, but if there's so much as a bump... ON!

On the Victory bikes it is FAR easier to be smooth at slow speeds if you stay above 2000-2200 rpm. Rolling through a parking lot at 20 mph, if you start thinking about shifting up... just don't... hold what ya got.
 

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Schools back in so all the school zone 15mph flashing lights are back on.
Low gear & keep the R's up and it's smooth going.
 

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School's back in so all the school zone 15mph flashing lights are back on.
Low gear & keep the R's up and it's smooth going.
For my commute, and my needs, it's not practical to ride the bike to work. I keep my tools in my truck because if I leave my tools at the office, bigger than sh!t I will need them at home... and the one day I decide to ride the bike to work I will need a 4' level. This alone makes me drive the truck for convenience. Additionally, I work 6 miles from home. It's hardly worth getting the bike out, warming it up, and donning my gear for a 6 mile ride and my neighbors probably frown on my 4-5 minute warm up at 05:30. If I want to ride after work it's easy enough to go home and get the bike.

The BIG reason I drive the truck is the speed limits on base are 25 mph or 35 mph, the last 1/3 of a mile is 15 mph. Speeding tickets are a huge pain in the ass on a federal installation, so I don't speed... which means I might get into 3rd gear a little. As hard as it is to go slow on this bike, especially 15 mph, riding the bike to work has ZERO appeal.

Oh the hardships of a bike that just wants to go faster. I spend a lot of time trying NOT TO accelerate. It only takes a few minutes to notice that it's a whole lot easier to do with the rpm up above 2500 in the first three gears. I know, it sounds cool to blub blub along at 1500 rpm, but it's almost not doable going that slow.
 

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@Half_Crazy My first wife worked on an Air Force Base that doesn't exist anymore.
It was called NAFEC: National Aviation Experimental Center in Pomona NJ.
I had built a '55 Chevy for her with a sweet little stroked 327.
LOL I know about tickets on base & off base!

Totally get it about driving the truck to work & the tool situation when it gets to be a PITA to ride it's best to leave it home.
I don't own 4 wheels anymore simply because I'm at a time in my life I don't need them.
Wife has a car & friends have trucks & I'm happy to let others drive.
 

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The BIG reason I drive the truck is the speed limits on base are 25 mph or 35 mph, the last 1/3 of a mile is 15 mph. Speeding tickets are a huge pain in the ass on a federal installation, so I don't speed... which means I might get into 3rd gear a little. As hard as it is to go slow on this bike, especially 15 mph, riding the bike to work has ZERO appeal.
Yep it's hard to keep my bike at 20 going thru a school zone. Then at work our parking lot speed limit is 12 mph luckily I don't have far to go so I usually just get up to speed and roll to the motorcycle parking and will bump first gear if needed. I couldn't imagine doing that for 1/3 of a mile on my bike much less on a performance bike like yours so I don't blame you on taking the truck.
 

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My issue:
Big assed engine, 1/4 turn throttle, conjoined throttle body adaptor... so at anything below 2000 rpm it is very hard to modulate the throttle on/off gently enough. It's like a wall switch -- on or off -- holding steady at 1500-2000 rpm will work, but if there's so much as a bump... ON!

On the Victory bikes it is FAR easier to be smooth at slow speeds if you stay above 2000-2200 rpm. Rolling through a parking lot at 20 mph, if you start thinking about shifting up... just don't... hold what ya got.
yeah lots of clutch and rear brake feathering at those lower speeds.
 

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Funny this. Was thinking about rpm stuff on the way home from 500 mile break in..and how I'm glad I didnt buy my magnum for stop and go around the city. It is definitely built for highway cruising. In the city I live in all residential streets are 20 mph.i dont particularly enjoy driving in 1st..or that slow. Plus I'm getting used to the idea of running at 3000 rpm as much as possible after driving my c90 at 2000rpm and change.
 

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Vics do not do well at sub-2K rpms.. just not what an overhead cam is good at.

My dad had a 750 2-cycle bike living on base back in the 70's. OMG was that horrible.. sitting on the back of that bike as a kid trying to get OFF the post was a neck-wrenching experience.. that bike went like stink once you got out the gates and was smooth as churned butter but putt-putting.. NOPE.
 

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This is why when you work in a service department, you never let the customer diagnose an issue. If the customer came in and said, "It seems to go into neutral and then back into gear while decelerating".... and the service writer wrote that and, "Transmission issue" on the ticket, The tech would ride it and report, "Cannot duplicate issue. Transmission is fine"... and in fact, the transmission IS fine. The customer would be back saying it's still doing it. Wasting time and accomplishing nothing.
 

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This is why when you work in a service department, you never let the customer diagnose an issue. If the customer came in and said, "It seems to go into neutral and then back into gear while decelerating".... and the service writer wrote that and, "Transmission issue" on the ticket, The tech would ride it and report, "Cannot duplicate issue. Transmission is fine"... and in fact, the transmission IS fine. The customer would be back saying it's still doing it. Wasting time and accomplishing nothing.
You are so right!
AND it is so hard for me to keep my mouth shut when I am the customer. LOL!
There have been times I have thought to myself: "Damn I used to hate people like me".
 

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This is why when you work in a service department, you never let the customer diagnose an issue. If the customer came in and said, "It seems to go into neutral and then back into gear while decelerating".... and the service writer wrote that and, "Transmission issue" on the ticket, The tech would ride it and report, "Cannot duplicate issue. Transmission is fine"... and in fact, the transmission IS fine. The customer would be back saying it's still doing it. Wasting time and accomplishing nothing.
That right there is the reason I will not bring any of my vehicle to a shop unless it's something that consistently happens and I can inform the mechanic on how to duplicate the issue. There are just something that I cannot pin point myself so I need someone that works on vehicles everyday.

My last knock out drag out was with a mechanic telling me my noise was something that I knew it wasn't. The mechanic was correct about the issue he found but it was not the one I was concerned with. Long story short it ended up being the gear in my starter was freely moving causing it to bounce around on the fly wheel. What finally make me realize it was the starter; was me not being able to start my truck on flat surfaces but could on an incline every time. Replace starter and the noise I was concerned with was gone.
 
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