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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a new battery in the summer, ride quite a bit so rarely put on a tender- when I do it shows that the battery is full. Today it did nothing, no clicks or anything and the tender shows it's full- any ideas?? I put lock washers on the terminal bolts.
Thx in advance!
 

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I got a new battery in the summer, ride quite a bit so rarely put on a tender- when I do it shows that the battery is full. Today it did nothing, no clicks or anything and the tender shows it's full- any ideas?? I put lock washers on the terminal bolts.
Thx in advance!
Could be the 40 amp breaker. Make sure those connections are tight as well as the ground from the battery to the bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have a multimeter, the 40amp is 2 years old. On startup sometimes the speedo light would go black (it's a XR) and sometimes it would just dim. I'll let it warm up b4 taking her apart, not going to be a good riding week here anyways, thx guys.
 

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The battery could have a dead/weak cell and still get a green light on the Battery Tender. What make and model battery did you buy last Summer?

I always buy the Yuasa model and replace them every 5 years just because. I also always connect the bike to a Battery Tender if I know I won’t be on it for several days.
 

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OK, I tried to get a Yuasa but they were backordered- got a generic battery with hi output.
How do you test for the amp draw?
 

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Looks like the fn terminal bolts got loose, again! Checked the battery, it's close to 13 sitting and drops to 9 on startup.
Dropping to 9 volts is too much.

Each cell in a good battery creates 2.2 volts. A good battery, properly charged therefore should be 13.2 volts.

Now the question is; is the battery properly charged, is there a lowered resistance in the circuit due to oil on a connector or switch causing some slight discharge to ground during the engagement of the starter Or do you have a bad battery.
 

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Dropping to 9 volts is too much.

Each cell in a good battery creates 2.2 volts. A good battery, properly charged therefore should be 13.2 volts.

Now the question is; is the battery properly charged, is there a lowered resistance in the circuit due to oil on a connector or switch causing some slight discharge to ground during the engagement of the starter Or do you have a bad battery.
I will point out that bad grounds or connections do not and can not cause this kind of voltage drop. That said a poor ground can impede a proper charge.
I suppose there is a possibility that there is a draw that can pull battery voltage down over several hours which can lead to misdiagnosis but doesn’t seem likely. To test for that disconnect the battery negative cable. Place a volt meter on dc volts and see if you get a reading of 12 or so volts Between the ground cable and the negative post on the battery. If you do there is something using power. Now the next step is to measure amps through that circuit to determine if this is normal due to electronics on your model. If you don’t know how to proceed after getting that amperage reading then post the results here and I or someone will get back to you.
 

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When you look for parasitic draw, you don't use volts....you use miliamps. Disconnect the negative terminal, put your multi-meter on "amps", and put one lead on the battery negative and the other lead on the bike's negative wire. Look at the reading. What you see is what the bike is drawing when the bike is off (ensure key is off). It should only be a few miliamps.
 

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When you look for parasitic draw, you don't use volts....you use miliamps. Disconnect the negative terminal, put your multi-meter on "amps", and put one lead on the battery negative and the other lead on the bike's negative wire. Look at the reading. What you see is what the bike is drawing when the bike is off (ensure key is off). It should only be a few miliamps.
But we aren’t looking for parasitic draw, we are looking for enough draw to pull a battery down in a hour or two. That aside it is true that most basic multimeters can measure amp draw up to ten amps by putting in series. At that point what would be the point of checking voltage if you were only interested in parasitic draw. It would be more helpful if I said for someone without a multimeter that a basic circuit tester, a lightbulb type put between the negative cable and the negative side of the battery would light up if serious draw was involved.
 

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A reasonable assumption as we are not entirely sure why his bike is hard starting except for the drop to 9 volts with starter engaged.
if he bought a cheap battery, very possible the meter is the same, might be a analog meter or off calibration. Would a drop to 10 volts be acceptable? possible it does drop to 10 but meter says 9.
 

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if he bought a cheap battery, very possible the meter is the same, might be a analog meter or off calibration. Would a drop to 10 volts be acceptable? possible it does drop to 10 but meter says 9.
A drop to ten volts is still too much for a draw from a starter with the proper battery and proper charge. When voltage drops that much either the battery has weak cell(s), starter windings are shorting to each other, a large draw from a different area in the starter circuit when the starter is engaged.
 
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