VOG Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, sorry it took so long to get back to all that asked about this. I have here the speaker and amp upgrade instructions for all that want them. It took me so long because I had problems at first with the setup and wanted to be sure it was right before posting and it was a simple fix. Then good weather took over and well, riding came first. I don't have but2 pictures for you so far, sorry but will explain in detail on how to do it at a cost of around $300 not six to eight hundo and notonly front speakers but all 4 speakers. This is a 4 speakers setup and itkicks hard.Now I want you to know I am a sound man. I have a DJ bus. and have been in and out of bands for over 42 years. So I know how to hook up all types of sound audio. If you want to do this then good and if you don't please don't discourage others not too if they are set in doing so. Its not easy but its not all that hard either. Please read all the instructions before begining to do anything to your bike as to make sure this is what you want. As for me I like my music loud and being a DJ and also battling deer on my way to work, so this lets them know I'm coming, this is what I wanted.
I must also add no Visions were killed or injured during this audio transformation.


I have the pictures of the amp and line level converter but lost the others. I will add more if I can to this post later.
Now for the instuctions:
1). You must remove these items off the bike. Dash cover, front speaker covers mirrorsand speaker enclosures, front accsess pannel, center consol, seat and cheese wedge, rear speaker covers and pass backrest, front and rear speakers. And turn the radio all the way down and turn the speed av to nothing.
2). Remove the front speakers and take note of the pos. and neg. speaker leads for use later. I used Infinity speakers because they have a larger speaker area then others and are great speakers, but as with most bigger speakers they don't fit right in the enclosures. So I have read that some made spacers and thats too hard for most to do and I didn't like that so, I removed and then modified the enclosures by setting the speaker in it and rubbing it back and forth then take it out to see where the speaker hits (2 spots). Then I took a small propane tourch and heated the inside of that area real good and made it soft enough to use the handle of my hammer and push out the spot where the speaker hits, do this while the enclosure is laying on the ground. The first side took a while and the second I got it the first try. Don't worry if you poke through the plastic because you can use silicone on the outside to fix and seal any openspots. Once you get the speaker to almost fit flush in the enclosure(about 1/8 inch gap is close enough) your good. But don't put the enclosure back in as of yet.
3). Routing the wires. I don't know about the hawg kit but I know it say's its a plug in system. But I tell you, If they use the same speaker wires for anything other than stock it will sound like crap compared to this.
You must use 50ft of 12 awg and 50ft of 16 awg speaker wire and what you want to do is cut 2 15ft lengths of each both 12 awg and 16 awg and then cut the remainder in half. You will need to put conectors on the 12 awg ends that are going to the speakers but not to the amp ( they have slots on the amp for the speaker wires). Now rout them into the enclosure first then put the enclosure back in the bike leaving enough wire to hook to the speaker. Now cut the ends off the orig. speaker wires andsplice inthe 16 awg wires to themwith conectorsand theygo to the in line converter( thats later). Rout the wires together right and left ones that go to the amp and ones that go to the in line converter( marking the right side with tape so you know which is which later right and left ) go from the front so you can wire tie them at a point just under the dash where they are almost out of sight and run them down along the left side on top of the frame. As you go you can use wire ties and attach them to the wires that already run that way. Take them all theway under where the seat would be but be careful not to place them under where the seat meets the frame or you will pinch them. Rout them to the left saddle bag side, as you must drill a hole big enough for all the wires to fit through speaker and power wires abouta 1inch hole (you can find a grommet at the auto store). If you are lookig at the inside of the saddle bag at the top left after the bend starts down toward the rear is where you want the hole which will be under the seat area.
With the the back speakers out leave 6 to 8 inchs of the 12 awg wire hang out of the speaker holes. Put conectors on those ends that will go to the speakers and run them to the crossover networks supplied with the back speakers and the crossovers will fit in the empty space under the trunk compartment so just wire tie them in there after you hook the wires from the back speakers and the rest of the 12 awg wire that will go to the amp. And rout those wires to the hole along with the other wires. And do the same with the orig. rear speaker wires as you did with the front and run them down along with the rest.
The power wire (red or + side) will also run along with the speaker wire from the front but will attach to the battery with a fuseable link in between and will meet up with the speakers wire where the wire meet the frame and run along with the speaker wires from there. Now there is also a second red power wire that must be put in for the amp. The amp has 3 power wires 2 red and one ground. The second REM is a smaller wire and can be 16awg also but not speakers wire. It will run from the rocker switch you will install in the extra slot on the consol. You can get a rocker switch that looks pretty close to what is there at the auto store or Victory sells them also. Now with the rocker switch in place, splice in to the hot side on the caution lights right next to this rocker you just put in. Use a test light and turn the key to acss. and find the hot side of the cautionwire but don't put on the caution lights while doing this. Hook that to this new switch and run the other side from the new switch back along with all the other wires and it will go to the REM on the amp. This wire does not power the amp it only tells the amp to power on, so that it doesnt come on all of a sudden.
The ground wire will hook up to the computer box ground that is under the seat and will go through the same hole as all the rest of the wires.
The next thing is the cpu case fan, You will get that from Newegg.com get the Vantec TD8038H 80mm it will keep the amp cool in the saddle bag. If you are in cooler temps area you may not need it but in 90 plus its a must. It will mount just below the wire hole and closest to the opening on the flat spot of the side of thesaddle bag toward the front. You must drill a bunch oflittle 3/16 holes in the side of that area for hot air to get out. And bolt the fan to the side on the inside of the saddle bag. Then run the red 16 awg power wire from the fan to the red side of the heated seat wire and splice into it. The ground will go to the amp ground.
Now you will pull all that wire through what seems like the smallest hole ever now,but if you do it one at a time it will go.
The wiring is the worst part and I tried to be as detailed as posible, so for some it might seem like to much info but for others it makes a wold of difference.
4). Mounting the amp. This amp just fits in the saddle bag like it was made for it. If you look at the first picture you can see its up on that little bump at the back of the bag. Put it up against there and mark where the 1/8 inch holes need drilled to mount it. And then drill the holes but dont mount it yet.
Next take the wires that you ran from the orig speaker wires and conect them to the in line converter by following the instucts for the converter. You will get that from amazon. You will turn it all the way up on the converter.
Next the rca cords attach them from the converter to the amp and the ground will also go to the amp with all the other ground wires.
Hook up the rest of the wires to the amp. where they are suppose to go ( follow the amps owners manual).
Now with every thing hooked up lastly being the main power lead, then put the fuse in. Turn on the radio and make sure before hand that it was turned down first. Turn on the roker switch and turn up the levels on the amp turn them to max, turn the base half way and leave the others down. Now very slowly turn up the radio one notch at a time andsee if it is playing on all 4 speakers and if it is then turn it down and everthing off and mount the amp with small screws in the saddle bag and then try it again and make sureall is still working after mounting the amp.
Hook the ground from the fan in last after the first test because it is loud.
Well thats itI willget more pictures uploaded and if you have ant Q's just ask. I know it looks like alot but its not that bad. It took me about 3 hrs total and is well worth it at only$300.
Here is a list of everything needed,
5032cf Infinity front speakers 5.25$60
Pyle plg5c speakers $37
Jensen amp $69
Scosche SLC4 speaker level converter $23
And about $100 for the rest, 50ft each of 12awg 16awg speaker wire and 16awg power wire and 10awg amp wire kit, wire conectors, screws, wire tester.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
After this installation I assume you can no longer use the saddle bag the amp and fan are in. Alen Ness has a amp the fits under the seat?? with their upgrade. Have you look into that setup??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
You are correct. Ness ( and many others) offer the Hawg Wired under saddle amp and speakers. They are a plug and play easily installed and priced about $750. I have this system and am pleased with the power and clarity. Was it worth it? For me yes. I was OK with the cost partly because it was plug and play, partly it is easily available, and mostly that I am demanding when it comes to sound reproduction.
 
  • Like
Reactions: willam_u

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,867 Posts

Heres what i did on mine and it works quite well with a smaller amp , and yes I can use the side saddle bags with gear
Clubford00 said:
This first pic shows the new amp and to the right the stock XM module. Correction on the amp, its an Alpine.





Some wire routing.





And here is where i mounted the Antenna. It comes with 2 sided tape.



As long as im posting, has anyone else noticed the GERMAN writing on the back side of their front aluminum wing???????

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
You are correct. Ness ( and many others) offer the Hawg Wired under saddle amp and speakers. They are a plug and play easily installed and priced about $750. I have this system and am pleased with the power and clarity. Was it worth it? For me yes. I was OK with the cost partly because it was plug and play, partly it is easily available, it did not take up any valuable saddlebag storage and mostly that I am demanding when it comes to sound reproduction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·

To BlackMW, You must have not read my post through. 1) I did this because I didnt want to pay $750 for the Hawg wired system and people asked me about it. 2) This has the use of 4 speakers not 2 like the Hawg system. 3) With the plug and play Hawg system you use the little speaker wires that come in the bike so this makes that one sound like crap. 4) I also must mentioned that I have beena sound man for over 25 years and have my own DJ bus.
To Clubford, If I'm not mistaken the amp you have there is the KTP-445. It's a good little amp but only has 45 watts per channel. The amp I have puts 100 watts to the front (because the front speakers are 2-Ohm and 75 watts to the back 4-Ohm). The back Midrange woofers thump hard enough to make the trunk rattle!
To ness, Why you posted the same thing twice I dont know but, I see that you don't have a trunk on your bike. So this would have been about $210 to setup for your bike. And if you like sound reproduction, this is clearer and sharper than the Hawg wired kit. Remember this is a 4 speaker system not 2! I was at bike night on Tuesand a Harley guy asked about the sound system and we were about 50 ft from the DJ and when I turned it up you could'nt hear the DJ at all.
Now, am I charging anything for this, no. Mostly all the pieces for this is on Amazon.com. I was just trying to find a cost alternitive to $750 andthats just for 2 speakers. Someone had too. And like I said in another post but not related to speakers at all. Some asked that Victory sould find a fix for the trunk rattle. Well I did its not the latch but the hing. If you reach back while the trunk is making noise and press lightly on the area just above the hing on the right the rattle stops. They didn't put rubber washers in between the 2 parts of the hing so it rubs together making it sound like a rattle. Try it. I was trying to help my fellow riders thats all. And if any need more info on this just ask.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
172 Posts
Dain,

Great write up!!! What model Jensen amp you use?

About two decades ago I used to run the board for a local country band. I miss the fun...not the low pay, late hours, drunks and the equipment hauling of that work.

Ride Safe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks RadioT, It is the 760 amp. It's a 2, 3 or 4 channel amp and has 75 watts x 4 channels. At $69 its worth it and fits in there like a glove. I could have gone with a more powerful amp but wanted to be cost effective.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Hey is this forum still live? Seems like many comments are 7+ years old.
Anyway, I'm looking for a packaged kit for my Vision sound system upgrade.
4 speakers, 1 amp, 1 harness.
Any suggestions please advise.
Got 1 furnish and install price so far $2,000+.
Note the parts alone were over $1,250. Too expensive for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
602 Posts
Sorry i missed this. Ive posted many how toos and upgrades ref vision. If your keeping the factory radio then you can wire in an amp and speakers. If your changing the radio then theres the on the dash mount or replace the center console panel and put in a fosgate PM2 or Pm3 type radio or JL audio. Both are options. The dash speakers are 5.25. Putting in 6.5s require some cutting. Putting in four 6.5s require a minor panel change. The rears are 5.25s. A single 4 channel amp will work and 3 amps will work. What are your thoughts.

Vehicle Motorcycle Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire
Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive lighting Hood Fuel tank
Hood Automotive design Grey Flooring Communication Device
Telephone Corded phone Telephony Communication Device Output device
Vehicle Blue Automotive lighting Fuel tank Hood
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
Iceman....I’ve been considering putting in a Fosgate PM series type unit. Is that console available somewhere?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
Ha! Just found it....HMD520....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12,831 Posts
HMD has put out some stunning Visions. Mike used to come to Daytona. A long trip for him but as he seen it’s a big Harley world in Florida as I’m sure it is in California. Atleast over there the custom world is alive and well. Seems Victory is very sought after still. In Florida these guys throw in the towel a lot here and succumb to the Koolaid.
Wondering ....... is Mike into Indians and HD like so many others have had to do ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
602 Posts
Im sure hes done indians. As a bike modifier im sure whoever pays will say nevermind the bike. Ref your vision. The pm amps arent bad but they are only 50 watts rms at 4 ohns. So will increase volume on an ok speaker. Wont push a great speaker. Example motos and beymas can handle 400 each. But for ease of installation and just swapping out a factory speaker for a decent one will be louder. Put a blue tooth modle on the aux cable for your phone. In out in a few hours no modifications.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top