This may be old news, but new to me. But Rotella T6 now has a 15w-40. Last I knew it was only 5w-40. It seems to me, the new weight would be a better choice for our bikes.
I didn't really want to start a new oil thread, but the others are pretty old....lol.
This may be old news, but new to me. But Rotella T6 now has a 15w-40. Last I knew it was only 5w-40. It seems to me, the new weight would be a better choice for our bikes.
I didn't really want to start a new oil thread, but the others are pretty old....lol.[/QUOTE
It is curious. My concern is it is full synthetic . I personally prefer a synthetic blend as that's what I've used. Would be (re) curios to hear what others experience. On a final note - WHAT WERE YOU THINKING MAN! I MEAN AN OIL THREAD! LMYR
I still did the 50/50 blend of the two.
Half of the T4 15/40 and half the T6 15/40.
I never saw the 15/40 before, but I figured it would be a closer spec to the 20/40wt.
Thank you for bringing this to our attention. I will be trying it as soon as I use up the T4 and T6 that I have in stock and the new oil is in stores. One more oil change.
I'm a recent @slickvic convert. Spectro Golden 4 20w40 for Victory!
Smoothest, most effortless shifting out of all the oils I've tried, including Victory brand, Rotella T4 (15w40) and T6 (5w40).
Of course, I also did replace the shift ratchet to the new part number (reduces slop without the need for a crush washer); I'm sure that helps a bunch
Hey Broggy. What's that part number ? How difficult was it to change ?
Oh yeah ........ tell them about how your clutch was starting to slip and a simple Spectro oil change seemed to cure the issue ! Go ahead tell them ......:bigpop:
This comes up quite a bit and I tend to stay away from the threads. No amount of discussion is going to sway people from what they believe is one of the best options they have.
If you were Shell and making an oil for the HUGE trucking industry why would you pay for what I've been led to believe in an expensive certification process for a motorcycle which the oil was never intended for? Also, if you're making a dyno and a full synthetic in a named product series like their "T" would you redo all the research technology or only part of it and make a semi-synthetic by simply determining the best proportions of the already existing product? Simply blend what you already have. The T5 should therefore meet any rating both of the feed stocks have. A guess of course.
I've been using T5 since 1999 on a previous and this bike. Originally 0W-40 but I couldn't get it anymore and moved to the 5W-40. I also throw in an additive just for my personal preference. Never a problem in 20 years and lots of miles. Remember, engines of all kinds like just about any oil that's looked after. It's the clutches that are the picky ones. Hell, over the years Ford has specified about 7 different transmission fluids but pretty much any engine oil will do.
This comes up quite a bit and I tend to stay away from the threads. No amount of discussion is going to sway people from what they believe is one of the best options they have.
If you were Shell and making an oil for the HUGE trucking industry why would you pay for what I've been led to believe in an expensive certification process for a motorcycle which the oil was never intended for? Also, if you're making a dyno and a full synthetic in a named product series like their "T" would you redo all the research technology or only part of it and make a semi-synthetic by simply determining the best proportions of the already existing product? Simply blend what you already have. The T5 should therefore meet any rating both of the feed stocks have. A guess of course.
I've been using T5 since 1999 on a previous and this bike. Originally 0W-40 but I couldn't get it anymore and moved to the 5W-40. I also throw in an additive just for my personal preference. Never a problem in 20 years and lots of miles. Remember, engines of all kinds like just about any oil that's looked after. It's the clutches that are the picky ones. Hell, over the years Ford has specified about 7 different transmission fluids but pretty much any engine oil will do.
I would recommend against a 0W or 5W when a 20W is specified. T-5 comes in a semi-synthetic 15W-40 which would be more appropriate. When the oil is shared with the trans and primary, a 15W will live longer with the gears shearing on it.
The lucky (I guess) thing is that the additive package that makes for a good diesel oil happens to be pretty much what a JASO MA package is. Go figure.
The winter weight being low viscosity is designed for protection by getting the oil flowing faster at initial startup. It's strictly to get the oil where it's supposed to be as soon as possible. Those of us who have started vehicles at the minus 30 to -40 degree range know what that's all about. You don't load the engine when it's cold. I don't ride at those temperatures but getting oil to the top is a priority for me. Once at operating temperature where it's important and where I ride, the 40 weight is the same for all similarly rated oils so protection and compression is pretty much the same. The other reason I initially went with a diesel oil is the extra detergents that are used. To me it just seemed another level of protection as does the additive I use.
Oil being recommended for everything from a motorcycle to a family wagon to a race car all have different requirements based on each ones normal operating temperature and designed compression requirements. With Vic's, as long as we aim for that 40 to run at we should all have the same benefit for the operation and protection of the hard parts that push, slide and smack into each other.
The lower winter ratings are not available where I live now so it's no longer a concern. As I said, I don't ride at those temperatures to it's not really a big deal breaker. I have enough 5W left for one more oil change then the next case will be the 15W that is stocked here.
As a PS...Synthetic engine oil has reduced friction modifiers for steel parts while synthetic transmission fluid has increased friction modifiers for clutch parts. I personally wouldn't use either one to pull double duty. That's just me though.
Synthetic engine oil has reduced friction modifiers for steel parts while synthetic transmission fluid has increased friction modifiers for clutch parts. I personally wouldn't use either one to pull double duty. That's just me though.
Friction modifiers (like in 'energy conserving' oils) are what makes a clutch slip. That's what to avoid with a wet clutch.
The presence of or amount of friction modifiers is not dependent on whether an oil is synthetic or not. Most all motorcycle synthetics are wet clutch compatible and state so on the label. It would be folly to use trans fluid as engine oil....
"Provides Excellent Wet-Clutch Performance
Synthetic V-Twin Motorcycle Oil delivers the confidence of quiet, smooth shifting and positive clutch engagement. It controls heat and helps prevent slippage and glazing."
"Optimized wet-clutch performance"
From what I have read about oils, the 0W and 5W oils would be less resistant to shear from transmission and primary gears than an oil with a higher 'cold' number. That was the point I was trying to make.
Both good oils. Both I have used with no issues ....Amsoil in my Victory and Mobil 1 in my VTX still to this day.
Today I heed the warning of our Victory tuners and decide 8,000 miles ago to go back to semi synthetic. The recommendation from Scott and his Crew at his shop full of Victory bikes and parts /Accessories is to use Spectro. Conquest Customs is a reputable and known builder. Scott and Others have stated our clutches just don’t like full syn and the numbers of clutches they have changed just shows them the odds are against us. Some get lucky as I did for over 25k running Amsoil. I didn’t want to chance my luck so I switched. Glad I did.
Comparing Spectro to Rotella ? Let’s just say this. If your willing to put a diesel rated oil in your bike then are you willing to put a motorcycle specific oil in your truck ?
Yeah yeah yeah oil is oil. Spectro is in the power sports business. I’ll pay for all the hard work they’ve done to deliver me what I’m hoping to be the right oil. So far they have come thru. All the way back since I was a kid they have been around the corner from me in my home town Brookfield Ct. and still there better than ever. Delivering more specific needed lubricants for the ever changing industry we all enjoy.
I stopped over thinking oil. This stuff was made for our bikes.
My uncle ran Quacker State 10w-30/40 in his 390 powered Galixy 500 that had the frame rust and break at 300,000 miles back in the 60's-70's. I've been riding and driving many decades using anything from store brand to $$ oils and you know what?? Never had an oil related failure. Never. Either did Uncle Fred. Rode a 1979 Shovelhead 100,000+ miles using straight weight HD oil, yes no oil related failure.
I'm thinking there's a lesson in there somewhere.
Name brand, wet clutch compatible......BAM good to go.
Uncle Fred had a 60's car and used car oil specific to that era. No ethanol or extreme engine tolerances. 9 miles to the gallon at .35 a gallon.
Your 79 Shovel used motorcycle specific HD oil designed to be put in that motor weekly. Lol.
Today ......... oil shearing design of a gear driven
tractor tranny as in our Vic's. Your oil can't be good enough. It has to stand up to the task and at the same time keep performing for up to 5000 miles.
Rotella is fine as long as it works and doesn't cause other problems.
I know of someone who used it and eventually experienced clutch slippage. I recommended trying an oil change to the Spectro brand before exploring a new clutch and he's back on the road. I'll stick with the company that spent the time developing a product for our bikes. Apparently they too are aware of our finicky clutches. Some get lucky and some do not.
Since 2002 I have had three motorcycles a Yamaha 1100 V Star Classic, Victory v92 tcd and this Vision all of them using Rotella 15/40 total miles with these three bikes around 225000 miles.
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