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Hi I have Arlen Ness swept pipes. I'd like to remove the baffles. I've taken off the heat shield and taken out the small bolt on the end. The baffle still doesn't want to pull out. Just wondering if the baffle is tacked in there? Or is there more than one bolt holding the baffle in?

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Yep They get really stuck in there , As VN says plenty of wd 40 and a lot of tugging , I got some long nose pliers grabbed the end of the baffle and attached mole grips to the end of the pliers over the hand grips as you would as you grip them then gave the mole grips a few wacks with a hammer . That did it for me .
 
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Pops a bit on over run when cold nothing major , Baffles go back in fairly easy . Just be sure to make a mark on the baffles from which pipe it came from , they are the same but don't seem to go back in as easy if they are swapped over . They sound really nice baffles out, Not too intrusive when you are trundling around but when you wind it up you get a nice deep roar . I have fitted home made lolipops in mine to recoupe some back reversion for lower end torque , I think it helps a little.
 
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If you take the baffles out, you have to at least put on some lollipops to create some back pressure. With no back pressure, you will lose all of your low end power.
 
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Loud does not have much to do with power and where it is produced (rpm and rpm range) Just makes it loud. Exhaust systems are designed to ad in the scavenging of exhaust. To help draw an exhaust pulse out of one cylinder head by timing the exit of a pulse from another cylinder whether you have two or twelve pistons. this is done with diameter of the pipe, length of the pipe and where the pipes join each other. Remember if the exhaust can not exit or exits to slow ( no help from another piston) the intake will not enter to fill the cylinder. Open pipes will usually kill power everywhere except the very top of the range. Most of us do not ride there very often if at all. It's cheap but you may not like it. Jerry
 
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