Hopefully this will help a lot of you fellow Vic riders out there and this wouldn't necessarily apply only to the Cross Country Tour or Crossroads. I've got a 2014 CCT with about 24k on it now. Starting last summer it would occasionally stall/shut off on me while going down the road or sitting at a light. As a faithful follower of the Vog.net I came here to see if anyone had any ideas what was going on. I ended up replacing the relay (down by the battery). Nope! That didn't fix it! I double-checked battery connections and ensured both cables were tight and that wasn't the problem. Then one day the bike wouldn't power up at all but if I wiggled the key a little bit I'd get power to the dash, etc albeit only momentarily. So I thought the problem was a faulty ignition switch. After pricing out new ones ($500 or $600 because you have to buy the saddlebag, gas cap, and trunk locks along with it) I ended up going with the Guard Dawg keyless ignition for about $200. After installing everything it still had no power. In the end it turned out to be a hot wire to running board lights that rubbed through and shorted out on frame). Problem finally fixed. No problems rest of year (2018) of riding. Fast forward to this year. Since I got back on the bike (end of April due to cold and rain) the bike would occasionally shut off again while going down the road but now it also will sometimes shut off while just sitting on it's kickstand right after I start it. But I also noticed that I will get a hesitation of sometimes 3 or 4 seconds before fuel pump primes and dash lights up. The other day it quit shortly after starting it and dash lights went out again. When I barely touched the kill switch (still in the "run" position) everything lit up again. Slide my thumb over it and everything shuts off once again. Bottom line is, I think the culprit of the whole stalling/shutting off problem with my CCT and others who have complained of the problem on here is actually a bad/faulty/wore out kill switch. Especially for those of us who have stopped/started their rides using the kill switch all along. In my case, I have to because I no longer have an ignition switch wired up (at least now anyway). The next opportunity I get I plan to pull the kill switch off, check/clean the contacts, and reassemble to see if that fixes the problem. I also should note that now I consciously make sure I am flipping the switch to the run position with a good, solid, forcefull push or snap of switch. Hope this helps others having same issue. I would love to be kept informed if anyone is noticing the same behavior (i.e. delay in dash/fuel pump activation after putting switch in "run" position or dash lights going on/off when applying even slight pressure to switch when in run position).