Penske install question | Page 2 | Victory Motorcycles: Motorcycle Forums

Penske install question

Discussion in 'Victory Cross Country' started by wvrider1, May 3, 2021.

  1. wvrider1

    wvrider1 Well-Known Member

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    XC, that"s outside looking in last pic.
     
  2. Chattanooga_Mark

    Chattanooga_Mark Well-Known Member

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    Response #2 and #4 should help.
     
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  3. Bikesofbrads

    Bikesofbrads Well-Known Member

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    Just wondering on the Penske what psi is the nitrogen set & how often is it said to check the pressure, what is the maximum / minimum psi? If you weren’t sposta mess with it they wouldn’t put a shradder valve in plain site now would they? JK’n folks leave that valve alone, unless ur a suspension god & doing the rebuild. Hafta say they must be really good setting them up since hardly anyone’s had to make changes after installing & never heard of one failing.
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2021
  4. Wild Bill

    Wild Bill Active Member

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    Ok, yeah mine was in backwards....just switched it! Thx to all for the advice!
     
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  5. Wild Bill

    Wild Bill Active Member

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    To access the Penske valve you'd remove the left side panel, but you should never have to from what I've read. I've only put a few hundred miles on it so it's still a bit stiff, although I can feel the difference in the corners already. Penske gives you a bunch of papers with information you may never use, along with a bunch of really cool stickers!
     
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  6. Bikesofbrads

    Bikesofbrads Well-Known Member

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    Is your sag set correctly, you can turn the adjustment 1-2 clicks softer until you find your sweet spot. My guess is need to make spring a lil longer ( by loosening the collar on top of shock by a turn or two ) The longer is softer shorter is stiffer. You’ve got a good adjustable shock so living with a stiff ride’s easy to fix & only takes about 5 min to change. The knob at bottom will speed up ( loosen ) or slow down ( tighten) how fast the shock returns expanded. You can clockwise turn in ( count the turns or number of clicks, don’t do halves ) to see where is set now & can always just put back to same amount of turns or clicks.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2021
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  7. Wild Bill

    Wild Bill Active Member

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    Not sure what the sag should be but I'll give it a week and try to adjust! Thx.
     
  8. Bikesofbrads

    Bikesofbrads Well-Known Member

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    @Wild Bill You want the ability to “pick up” the rear of the bike. Kinda like how shock goes down when u set on the bike, you want it to have space to go up a lil bit ( so it doesn’t buck on bumps ) Is lots of videos on it & has lots of good information to help better understand the suspension system & how you can make yours feel right for you.
     
  9. Blowndodge

    Blowndodge Well-Known Member

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    all this talk about "sag" and "cleavage" is getting me worked up!
     
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  10. Bikesofbrads

    Bikesofbrads Well-Known Member

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    @WildBill If the back has give when you pick up on it, if the bikes setting level ie front to back < starting point. Then set on it and bounce a lil, if is too hard u unscrew collar on top of spring ( lengthen) to soften but if is soft u screw down to tighten / compress the spring ( shorten ) to make it harder. That’s preload. A longer spring is softer & cushy, the more u load the spring the less it can move to soften the ride. The knob / turn wheel at bottom controls the speed the shock collapses & returns unsprung, clockwise slow / harsh, go counterclockwise fast / bouncy. Science stuff how spring react as pressure is introduced through its motion & stuff. The xbikes use the air for our preload. I love suspension Good times man is fun, suspension principles are the same pretty much across the board so even if watch videos of set ups for track the principles transfer to the street. Main diff is track requires stiffer & street riders want more cushy / softer set ups.
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2021
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  11. PreachSF

    PreachSF Well-Known Member

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    as scott has always told me, that is correct ... hole facing rear of bike
     
  12. Wild Bill

    Wild Bill Active Member

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    Thx, I hardly budges either way so I guess it's made for someone heavier than me! What is the easiest way to soften the ride, via the bottom or top adjustment?!

    Just called Penske, contrary to popular belief these aren't setup from them. He told me how to do it , and said never touch the Schrader valve....or you'll release the oil!
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2021
  13. Bikesofbrads

    Bikesofbrads Well-Known Member

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    @Wild Bill The top, a couple turns backwards ( maybe 4-5 if overly stiff ) will prob do it. It’s a jam nut style, some also have 1-2 small screws / bolts inside of those lil holes as a second backup to ensure it can’t vibrate loose & back up so check before trying to back collar up. The clevis ends where bolt into bike remains untouched unless want to raise or lower bikes ride height, that’s changed by screwing in or out the bottom clevis. That thumb wheel on top of bottom clevis controls speed that shock returns to normal after hitting a bump. In slows it down & out speeds it up. Do you hafta take seat & inner fender out to have nuff room to adjust it or is there room to get ur hand in there
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2021
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  14. Wild Bill

    Wild Bill Active Member

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    Thx, I'll have to jack it up and see. Otherwise I'll remove the seat and left plastics. Here's how mine came: 16207617072537778959564884260725.jpg
     
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  15. Bikesofbrads

    Bikesofbrads Well-Known Member

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    @WildBill I see rebounds 12 out, it goes 30 ( I think ) out is it’s adjustment range .After getting some sag you may end up liking 15-17 better ( maybe even 20 ) than 12 depending how much weight ur hauling, if trunked & what kinda roads you ride. Ur backs gonna thank you
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2021

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