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Well my Actevo showed up. 1 quart of 5 …. WTF ? Did I just raise their stock with this thread and they’ve run out of oil ? If this continues they’ll get no perks here. It will be Ultra 1 plus and Spectro !!

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@slickvic you liked the amsoil 10w40 Metric better than th 20w40 "formulate for victory and Indian"?
Seems counter intuitive that a "thinner" oil would feel better. Just curious...

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The engine oiling system was designed with 15W-40 in mind so a 10W-40 or a 20W-40 is such a little difference as to likely not make a difference. Except for initial start-up on very cold days. I've used Vic Oil 95%+ in my CCT. Riding conditions between 17F to 116F. The oem Vic oil of 15W-40 was never an issue, never.

I'm unclear why some feel switching from the 15W-40 oem recommendation to a 20W-50 is needed. I'm fine with my potential switch to the 10W-40 Semi Synthetic Ultra 1Plus. IMHO, having the JASO MA2 motorcycle wet clutch rating is certainly needed.
 

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Having a couple of discussions with people who know about oil has taught me that it's not so much the oil that is the problem, but the additives that loose performance with use and time. Someone else's information, not mine. Of course, in a bike there are factors not present in automotive setting. Sheer from the transmission mostly. So, given the state of oil today and the much improved formula's compared to twenty plus years ago, 5K miles between changes doesn't seem unreasonable to me, More than that and I'm skeptical. I want my engines to do more than just survive their normal lifespans. I want to get much more out of my machines than what might be considered normal.
So, I go with 4500 mile changes and flushes and other things at good intervals. Working so far.
 

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The engine oiling system was designed with 15W-40 in mind so a 10W-40 or a 20W-40 is such a little difference as to likely not make a difference. Except for initial start-up on very cold days. I've used Vic Oil 95%+ in my CCT. Riding conditions between 17F to 116F. The oem Vic oil of 15W-40 was never an issue, never.

I'm unclear why some feel switching from the 15W-40 oem recommendation to a 20W-50 is needed. I'm fine with my potential switch to the 10W-40 Semi Synthetic Ultra 1Plus. IMHO, having the JASO MA2 motorcycle wet clutch rating is certainly needed.
I’m only running the 20w50 since I live in the desert heat of AZ. Thinking it will help keep her a bit cooler and less shear on those brutal hot days that we get so often.
 

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20/40 was chosen because at the time no one else had a 20/40 motorcycle oil and so victory could capitalize on oil sales. Label their own brand with an exclusive formula and a story about how their oil was specially formulated for their bikes and how you should only use Victory oil. Just a story. I never bit into the secret sauce of Victory oil. When my bike bike sat it would make terrible valve train noise at start ups. The shifting got notchy in 1500 miles and I thought my bike was noisy. So I switched and experienced improvements all around. Could be the bike was too new. Who knows. So many have had great success with Vic oil and Rotella and whatever else they chose for their premiere motor oil. Full synthetic or semi synthetic. Who even knows what the blend consist of regarding the percentage of pure synthetic base stock. To me … more important is the additives used which is what actually protects your motor, clutch and transmission. It takes a hell of a good oil to perform for all three key components in a shared oil motorcycle …..Your oil can’t be too good.
 

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20/40 was chosen because at the time no one else had a 20/40 motorcycle oil and so victory could capitalize on oil sales.
I just don’t believe this scenario and here’s why:

The oil delivery system was designed with a 15W-40 oil in mind. The oil pump type and flow rate, the oil filter, the oil cooler, every oil line and every oil delivery port was designed to work within the 15W-40 semi synthetic performance parameters.

I don’t believe Polaris engineers, and whoever else helped design the 106, had selling private label oil revenue as a design parameter.

Oil sales are a Marketing function, not really an R&D design data point. Plus I’m pretty sure Polaris wasn’t the pioneer in using a 15W-40 semi synthetic oil.
 

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I just don’t believe this scenario and here’s why:

The oil delivery system was designed with a 15W-40 oil in mind. The oil pump type and flow rate, the oil filter, the oil cooler, every oil line and every oil delivery port was designed to work within the 15W-40 semi synthetic performance parameters.

I don’t believe Polaris engineers, and whoever else helped design the 106, had selling private label oil revenue as a design parameter.

Oil sales are a Marketing function, not really an R&D design data point. Plus I’m pretty sure Polaris wasn’t the pioneer in using a 15W-40 semi synthetic oil.
Mark ….. it’s not the only reason. Just a good opportunity. They switched 15/40 to 20/40 and private labeled. 5/40 10/40 15/40 20/40 and what ever else is out there works. No one had 20/40 in a jaso rated oil. There are guys running 20/50 and Ive heard of some running the new 15/60 or what ever it is. There is more truth behind the manufacturers oil recommendations based on fuel economy than what is the proper oil that will flow thru the veins of a victory’s motor. 20/40 is thin enough and at the same time thick enough for a gear driven transmission. While 20/50 or even 60 is better for that tranny it’s not for the motor. My motor liked Amsoil 10/40 the best. My Honda VTX liked Amsoil 10/40 the best. My outboard liked 10/30 Amsoil the best. Thinner is better for the motor but the additive package speaks loads to the quality of the oil.
 

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Minor on the minors and major on the majors is very often the right approach.

The standard NGK spark plug at $3 each when bought online in bulk work as designed. Some spend 3 to 4 times that on some marketing wizardry super special spark plug. Does that expensive plug make a noticeable difference? No, not enough difference to make a difference.

Victory oil is 20W-40. Some use 10W-40 and some use 20W-50. At some point someone will come out with a 10W-100 and some will claim it’s the best possible oil to run in the engine originally designed for a 20W-40.

Bottom line, use a quality oil with the proper wet clutch rating in the recommended weight and change it at regular intervals.
 

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Best oil possible, yes. Additives Matter, yes. I try to stick with all these things, but clean fresh oil is most important, given all other factors are mostly the same.
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Minor on the minors and major on the majors is very often the right approach.

The standard NGK spark plug at $3 each when bought online in bulk work as designed. Some spend 3 to 4 times that on some marketing wizardry super special spark plug. Does that expensive plug make a noticeable difference? No, not enough difference to make a difference.

Victory oil is 20W-40. Some use 10W-40 and some use 20W-50. At some point someone will come out with a 10W-100 and some will claim it’s the best possible oil to run in the engine originally designed for a 20W-40.

Bottom line, use a quality oil with the proper wet clutch rating in the recommended weight and change it at regular intervals.
Just watched a video on oil changes that are done too frequently. Cars and trucks. The new recommended interval is yearly and in some cases 10,000 miles. This Recommendation is by the manufacturer of the vehicle. They don’t want you opening up that motor unnecessarily as the oils today for autos and cars can go 20,000 miles !!!
The dealer and the mechanic / oil change shops sing a different tune. Obviously…… they are in business to sell oil and service.
Now motorcycles like ours …..with oil shearing gear driven tractor like transmissions ? Yeah I’ll go a little sooner.
I don’t want to pay too much for oil anymore. I believe there isn’t any bad oil if it’s specific. This new find for us could be the greatest oil we have ever used. Till the price goes up. Lol.
 

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How about this oil change scenario:

Two liters of 10W-40 Ultra 1Plus Semi Synthetic blend and two liters of 20W-50 Ultra 1Plus Semi Synthetic blend.

The result should be a 15W-45.

Victory 106” nirvana or something else?

Let’s not bring the oil filter into it at this time.
 

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Just watched a video on oil changes that are done too frequently. Cars and trucks. The new recommended interval is yearly and in some cases 10,000 miles. This Recommendation is by the manufacturer of the vehicle. They don’t want you opening up that motor unnecessarily as the oils today for autos and cars can go 20,000 miles !!!
That sounds like a video produced by the foxes regarding security measures for the hen house.

"opening up the motor unnecessarily'? Really. Do they mean the 10mm hole in the bottom of the oil pan or the 14mm diameter oil dipstick tube? Perhaps it's the orifice exposed for the 60 seconds it takes to replace the oil filter. Is there a major concern with sand, grit, sweat, lint and/or other FOD getting inside the engine?

Many newer cars don't even have oil pan drains as the engine is designed to have the oil vacuumed out through the dipstick tube. The same orifice/tube they use to add the new oil.
 

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I just got 3 more bottles of Actevo 10/40.
recap …… I received 1 of 5 last week. Yesterday 3 of 5 making 4. The 5th ???? On back order !!!! WTF ….. Amazon !!
 

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Many newer cars don't even have oil pan drains as the engine is designed to have the oil vacuumed out through the dipstick tube. The same orifice/tube they use to add the new oil.
Well that just sucks, until it’s time to blow it back in again. Hey Magvic, all this orifice talk got me excited too. 1 lil 2 lil 3 lil holes 4 lil 5 lil
 
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