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Discussion Starter · #161 ·
I’ve had the FOBO Bike 2 TPMS on the CCT for few years. I really like having it as an app on the phone and it works perfectly. That being the case, I ordered a 4 piece set as well as two of their T Valve stems. Everything came in today so I didn’t waste any time getting the sensors installed on the Hard-Ball wheels. The tubes on the Hard-Ball wheels have a strong metal valve stem so adding the lightweight sensors isn’t a concern. The additional two sensors are for the rear air shock for both bikes. I’ll have to reposition the shock air hose so the sensor won’t prevent the side cover from being installed. I’ll likely get to that over the weekend.

I have their T Valve stems on the CCT and they make adding air when needed super easy. At the next Hard-Ball tire change I’ll install the T Valve stems along with the Centramatic wheel balancer plates to the mag wheel set.

A nice little ride out to Murphy, NC today and the bike road perfectly.
Wheel Tire Land vehicle Vehicle Car
 

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I’ve had the FOBO Bike 2 TPMS on the CCT for few years. I really like having it as an app on the phone and it works perfectly. That being the case, I ordered a 4 piece set as well as two of their T Valve stems.
Where did you purchase the fobo and t-stems from? Looking for some for my bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #163 · (Edited)
I bought them directly from the FOBO website. I couldn’t find the kit I wanted anywhere else. Two piece Bike kit plus two additional bike sensors plus their T Valve stems. From order placement to my door in a week. They ship FedEx from Malaysia and take payment via credit card or PayPal, all secure. They confirm order placement, shipping and tracking updates via email. I’m a very satisfied repeat customer and recommend their system to anyone who’s interested in a TPMS. Knowing your tire and shock psi before even getting dressed to go for a ride is invaluable information and once you have it, you won’t be satisfied without it.

Paul P has a YouTube video of him installing the Trike (3 piece) set on his CCT.
 

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have to reposition the shock air hose so the sensor won’t prevent the side cover
I did not have to relocate the rear shocks valve to install my sykik sensor, I did loosen the jamnut holding the valve into the inner cover and that gave enough room for the sensor to fit behind the outer side cover
Knowing your tire and shock psi before even getting dressed to go for a ride is invaluable information and once you have it, you won’t be satisfied without it.
Yes it is, saying it’s a game changer doesn’t do the peace of mind gained justice
 
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Discussion Starter · #166 · (Edited)
Yes, you can buy the standard kits on Amazon etc. I wanted two extra sensors and their T Valve stems. Plus i ordered an extra cap. I didn’t find any other website that offered that. Plus there’s not really any money savings from selecting 3rd party resellers.

Replacing the 90 degree valve stems with their T Valve would be helpful. That way if you need to add air, there’s no need to remove the sensor. The sensor goes on top, pointing towards the axle and the 90 degree part of the T is still in the right place, pointing to the right side of the bike. The 3rd part of the T is in the rim. Easy Peasy.

These latest FOBO Bike 2 sensors are smaller than the ones on my CCT. They even take a smaller battery. I’ll verify tonight, but I may not have to relocate the rear shock air hose end with their latest sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #167 ·
I placed the order late last night with www.victorypartspro.com for the Hard-Ball (Cross bike) taillight and the rubber trim mounting pad. It shipped from Polaris this afternoon. About 14 hours after I placed the order online.

Thank you VictoryPartsPro and thank you Polaris for the quick order processing and shipping. And certainly for having both items in stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 · (Edited)
I've been waiting for this day.

The S&S Stage 2 camshafts are installed and the corresponding EPA compliant S&S/Victory fuel map has been downloaded. So, how did it work out? In a nutshell: I'm Happy! For now.

The power is noticeably increased down low, in the mid range and all the way up into triple digits. The Tri Ovals have a nicer tone to them as well. 0mph to 60mph is noticeably improved. 60mph to 80mph roll on is noticeably improved. 60mph to 100+mph, yup, noticeably improved. I typically set the cruise control to 80mph in 6th gear on the interstate. Traffic flow averages 75mph to 80mph. In some areas traffic flows at 85mph to 90mph which is quite nice. The posted limit is 70mph.

One benefit I immediately noticed is the fueling is forgiving. Meaning that when traffic slows to 60mph to 65mph for some reason, I can leave the bike in 6th gear and simply twist the grip or press RES on the cruise to get back to 80mph when the slowdown is over. For an EPA compliant factory upgrade, they did a very nice job on this. Typically with my CCT, I need to downshift to 5th once below 70mph to get back to 80mph to then get back into 6th gear.

Music City Indian/Victory in Nashville, TN did the installation. They charged me for 3 hours. This is a busy shop, and they were interrupted several times. The lead technician told me this before hand and I was and am fine with it. In the shop to leaving the shop took over 6 hours. But the entire crew is excellent to work with. They're meticulous, cleaned every surface on the bike they could have possibly touched and more. These guys really like Victory motorcycles.

When I was paying I asked if they saw anything that will need attention soon. They suggested I get the brakes flushed soon. I knew this so I asked if they had time to do it now. They did so they rolled it back into the shop and did that as well. The fluid that came out could have been original. It looked more like thin pancake syrup than brake fluid. They vacuumed out the master cylinders so all that old fluid didn't have to be syphoned out at the calipers. Only the fluid in the calipers themselves and the lines had to be syphoned out. They syphoned until it came out crystal clear. Brake performance is vastly improved now as well.

I have more work to get done on this Hard-Ball. The fork seals need to be replaced and the rear caliper rubber bushing is gone from the post. It likely dry rotted off the post and fell out somewhere along the way. I have that part on order now as well, item 2203684, Kit, Pin Boot, Rear ($37.95). I brought valve cover gaskets with me and the team at Music City replaced those as well. The original ones seemed to be seeping a bit of oil.

It was a spirited ride home in some sections and I still have a bit of new oil on the top of the engine. After watching The Vic Shop's latest video, I suspect the Oil Breather Tube that connects into the frame is where the oil is coming from. In the video, Rylan said the 45 degree rubber elbow between the breather tube and the frame often deteriorates over time. In this bikes case, I'm nearly certain of it. The item number for the Asm, Tube, Breather, Oil is 1240445 ($91.86) and I have one on order along with the new fitting that goes into the frame. The tank has to be pulled to change this oil breather tube as well as to confirm the upper connection has deteriorated.

I also brought a new throttle body rubber boot, clamps, o-rings and throttle body to air box seal. Those items did not need to be replaced today.

After everything I've done to this Hard-Ball, I'm closing in on being done. I have original wheel bearings and fork seals on my parts shelf. I also have 10W synthetic fork oil that will be used to replace whatever fork oil may be left in the forks. It's just a matter of when at this point. I've used a few parts from my Parts Shelf that were earmarked for the CCT. Therefore, once I get past these expenditures, I'll need to start building up my inventory again.

Can the fuel map be improved? You bet! I have no doubt @NOEMTZ would vastly improve upon this EPA compliant fuel map. I simply just can't swing an $800 expenditure for Maximus at this time. I'll need tires soon as well as getting the CC mag wheels powder coated matte black and then adding a red pin stripe to mimic the spoked wheels. Plus at some point I'd like to replace the original switchgear for new (used) ones that aren't faded. I'll save the eom wheel bearings I have for these mag wheels, not replace the bearings in the spoked wheels.
 

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I've been waiting for this day.

The S&S Stage 2 camshafts are installed and the corresponding EPA compliant S&S/Victory fuel map has been downloaded. So, how did it work out? In a nutshell: I'm Happy!

The power is noticeably increased down low, in the mid range and all the way up into triple digits. The Tri Ovals have a nicer tone to them as well. 0mph to 60mph is noticeably improved. 60mph to 80mph roll on is noticeably improved. 60mph to 100+mph, yup, noticeably improved. I typically set the cruise control to 80mph in 6th gear on the interstate. Traffic flow averages 75mph to 80mph. In some areas traffic flows at 85mph to 90mph which is quite nice. The posted limit is 70mph.

One benefit I immediately noticed is the fueling is forgiving. Meaning that when traffic slows to 60mph to 65mph for some reason, I can leave the bike in 6th gear and simply twist the grip or press RES on the cruise to get back to 80mph when the slowdown is over. For an EPA compliant factory upgrade, they did a very nice job on this. Typically with my CCT, I need to downshift to 5th once below 70mph to get back to 80mph to then get back into 6th gear.

Music City Indian/Victory in Nashville, TN did the installation. They charged me for 3 hours. This is a busy shop, and they were interrupted several times. The lead technician told me this before hand and I was and am fine with it. In the shop to leaving the shop took over 6 hours. But the entire crew is excellent to work with. They're meticulous, cleaned every surface on the bike they could have possibly touched and more. These guys really like Victory motorcycles.

When I was paying I asked if they saw anything that will need attention soon. They suggested I get the brakes flushed soon. I knew this so I asked if they had time to do it now. They did so they rolled it back into the shop and did that as well. The fluid that came out could have been original. It looked more like thin pancake syrup than brake fluid. They vacuumed out the master cylinders so all that old fluid didn't have to be syphoned out at the calipers. Only the fluid in the calipers themselves and the lines had to be syphoned out. They syphoned until it came out crystal clear. Brake performance is vastly improved now as well.

I have more work to get done on this Hard-Ball. The fork seals need to be replaced and the rear caliper rubber bushing is gone from the post. It likely dry rotted off the post and fell out somewhere along the way. I have that part on order now as well, item 2203684, Kit, Pin Boot, Rear ($37.95). I brought valve cover gaskets with me and the team at Music City replaced those as well. The original ones seemed to be seeping a bit of oil.

It was a spirited ride home in some sections and I still have a bit of new oil on the top of the engine. After watching The Vic Shop's latest video, I suspect the Oil Breather Tube that connects into the frame is where the oil is coming from. In the video, Rylan said the 45 degree rubber elbow between the breather tube and the frame often deteriorates over time. In this bikes case, I'm nearly certain of it. The item number for the Asm, Tube, Breather, Oil is 1240445 ($91.86) and I have one on order along with the new fitting that goes into the frame. The tank has to be pulled to change this oil breather tube as well as to confirm the upper connection has deteriorated.

I also brought a new throttle body rubber boot, clamps, o-rings and throttle body to air box seal. Those items did not need to be replaced today.

After everything I've done to this Hard-Ball, I'm closing in on being done. I have original wheel bearings and fork seals on my parts shelf. I also have 10W synthetic fork oil that will be used to replace whatever fork oil may be left in the forks. It's just a matter of when at this point. I've used a few parts from my Parts Shelf that were earmarked for the CCT. Therefore, once I get past these expenditures, I'll need to start building up my inventory again.

Can the fuel map be improved? You bet! I have no doubt @NOEMTZ would vastly improve upon this EPA compliant fuel map. I simply just can't swing an $800 expenditure for Maximus at this time. I'll need tires soon as well as getting the CC mag wheels powder coated matte black and then adding a red pin stripe to mimic the spoked wheels. Plus at some point I'd like to replace the original switchgear for new (used) ones that aren't faded. I'll save the eom wheel bearings I have for these mag wheels, not replace the bearings in the spoked wheels.
aww, c'mon mark go for it! get the 800 dollar maximus tune! its only mony! and YOU sir, have plenty of it. spread it around! help the motorcycle economy!:LOL:
 

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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
Wow, that was fast.

The breather tube and the rear caliper pin/bushing I ordered late Tuesday night (28Feb) are delivering tomorrow, Friday (3Mar). I just got an email notice from UPS telling me "Your package is arriving tomorrow from Powersports Warehouse".

Again, congratulations to www.victorypartspro.com for their prices and quick service and to Polaris for having the parts in stock and shipping them out so quickly. Very impressive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #171 · (Edited)
Wow, that was fast.

The breather tube and the rear caliper pin/bushing I ordered late Tuesday night (28Feb) are delivering tomorrow, Friday (3Mar). I just got an email notice from UPS telling me "Your package is arriving tomorrow from Powersports Warehouse".

Again, congratulations to www.victorypartspro.com for their prices and quick service and to Polaris for having the parts in stock and shipping them out so quickly. Very impressive.
Oops, my mistake. What was delivered today was a fuel filter 'kit' that I ordered back in December. I could have sworn that came in a while ago. Regardless, at the next fuel filter change I already have the kit ready to assemble.

The box the kit comes in says Made in China. Perhaps the children working in that particular factory haven't been properly trained to assemble the fuel filter so they simply send all the parts in a bag which then gets put into a box.
 

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Written in code with invisible ink, on flash paper, kept in a lock box, stored in a vault, which combination was destroyed by fire, and the key hammered into a medallion which he never removes from his neck, all kept a mystery to his wife.
 

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Discussion Starter · #174 · (Edited)
@Chattanooga_Mark,
Just curious. Did you keep track of the money spent thus far on your project?
What the Hard-Ball ‘needed’ is vastly different from what I ’want’ for it. IMHO, it needed both ABS sensors replaced because they were both faulty. it also needs new fork seals. I have those on my Parts Shelf because I bought them a while ago for my CCT.

Both my Victory bikes are forever bikes. Therefore, I decided early on they’ll be decked out as I want them to be. It took a couple of years with the CCT and so far a few months with the Hard-Ball. Everything was readily available back in 2013 when I was acquiring things for the CCT. Now that Victory has been gone for over 5 years, I’m more an opportunity buyer for the things I want for the Hard-Ball.

I’ve already installed some items (CCT seat/backrest) as they presented themselves and I’ve acquired other items (CCT mag wheels) knowing I’ll install them at the next pertinent opportunity.

The single most expensive item has been the black Show Chrome Accessories 3.5” LED driving lights. $441 on Amazon.

The single least expensive item is a set of aftermarket fork air deflectors that a fellow Vog member sent to me for free. Yup, from reading TheVog, he contacted me and wanted to send me a set of CR fork mounted air deflectors. How cool is that! I installed them tonight and will report on them in my Buffeting thread tomorrow.

If you know of a set of Passenger Grab Handles, please let me know.
 

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@Chattanooga_Mark,
Just curious. Did you keep track of the money spent thus far on your project?
+1
I can't help but wonder how much is invested....
Or, "spent". Not really an investment. That's what we tell the wives.

I'm certain it's a great bike. I've never had a "forever" bike. I'm always thinking about the next one....so $ becomes an issue.

My Xroads will always be one of my very best motorcycles I have owned.
My Indian FTR is way up there, but for different reasons. Brute HP.
 

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Discussion Starter · #177 · (Edited)
I have not and have no intention to put pencil to paper to add up every dollar spent on the Hard-Ball. Certainly not because I have more money than I need etc. Far from it actually. Adding up the money total simply has no purpose to me because like I said, both my Victory’s are forever bikes. I’m content to keep them for as long as I can ride. Therefore, the Hard-Ball is being brought up to the standard I want for it. Simple as that.

Believe this though; I’m the guy you’d want to buy a used bike from. If you hear I died, be the first to call my wife about a Victory sale. :)

For the most part, I’m done accumulating stuff for it. The CCT heated seat, oem backrest, heated grips, driving lights, Centramatic wheel balancers, S&S Cams kit, Tri Ovals and mag wheels were the big wants. I have a J.W. Speaker Adaptive 2 headlight on order that hasn’t shipped yet. My card has been charged but I’m likely a month away from getting the light.

Next week the fork seals are getting replaced on the Hard-Ball and Bel-Ray 10W fork oil is going in. I have those parts on my shelf as well. Though now the parts shelf will need to be built back up for the CCT that’s quickly approaching 100K miles. The heated grips were bought for the CCT as well as the fork seals and bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #178 · (Edited)
The new taillight in in, it's nice and bright and it's working fine. I'll hold on to this original Hard-Ball taillight and perhaps cut it open in an attempt to fix the connection between the top half and the bottom half. The hope is it could be used as a spare for the CCT if that one starts acting up as well. When I left the garage this evening for a brief ride, the taillight was lit to its full length for both running and brake lights. Though I have no idea if it remained working as I traveled.

What was a bit odd is that the two lower securing screws were missing so the taillight was only being held on by the two top M4x20 SHCS. I installed stainless button head M4x20 bolts with a lock washer in all four mounting holes. I added a touch of anti-seize to the bolts to keep the threads clear for the long term. I didn't replace the V shaped rubber pad that's under the turn signal mount and the taillight surround. I just didn't see the point to removing all that stuff to replace the rubber pad. There’s actually no evidence the two lower mounting bolts were ever installed. Not around the fender holes or the taillight threads. Hmm.

Under the rear fender was the normal amount of dirt and dust from 37,700 miles. It's now nice and clean.

As I was reassembling the saddlebag mounts I added the straight bushings and flanged bushings that are needed for the Lock & Ride passenger backrest. I had a new set of these bushings on my parts shelf from exchanging a two hole chrome passenger backrest/luggage rack I had for the CCT a few years ago. I knew they'd come in handy at some point. The Hard-Ball also came with a two hole black passenger backrest and luggage rack. Though it's been relocated to the attic soon after I got the bike home. There was tape wrapped around the mounting points so I have no idea what happened to the original bushings that should have been their.

Next up for, IMHO what's turning into the world's coolest and best equipped Hard-Ball, is to get the fork seals replaced and to use Bel Ray 10W fork oil instead of the oem oil. The more I work on, get to know and ride this Hard-Ball the more I love it. And I started out loving it the day I rode it home.
 

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The new taillight in in, it's nice and bright and it's working fine. I'll hold on to this original Hard-Ball taillight and perhaps cut it open in an attempt to fix the connection between the top half and the bottom half. The hope is it could be used as a spare for the CCT if that one starts acting up as well. When I left the garage this evening for a brief ride, the taillight was lit to its full length for both running and brake lights. Though I have no idea if it remained working as I traveled.

What was a bit odd is that the two lower securing screws were missing so the taillight was only being held on by the two top M4x20 SHCS. I installed stainless button head M4x20 bolts with a lock washer in all four mounting holes. I added a touch of anti-seize to the bolts to keep the threads clear for the long term. I didn't replace the V shaped rubber pad that's under the turn signal mount and the taillight surround. I just didn't see the point to removing all that stuff to replace the rubber pad. There’s actually no evidence the two lower mounting bolts were ever installed. Not around the fender holes or the taillight threads. Hmm.

Under the rear fender was the normal amount of dirt and dust from 37,700 miles. It's now nice and clean.

As I was reassembling the saddlebag mounts I added the straight bushings and flanged bushings that are needed for the Lock & Ride passenger backrest. I had a new set of these bushings on my parts shelf from exchanging a two hole chrome passenger backrest/luggage rack I had for the CCT a few years ago. I knew they'd come in handy at some point. The Hard-Ball also came with a two hole black passenger backrest and luggage rack. Though it's been relocated to the attic soon after I got the bike home. There was tape wrapped around the mounting points so I have no idea what happened to the original bushings that should have been their.

Next up for, IMHO what's turning into the world's coolest and best equipped Hard-Ball, is to get the fork seals replaced and to use Bel Ray 10W fork oil instead of the oem oil. The more I work on, get to know and ride this Hard-Ball the more I love it. And I started out loving it the day I rode it home.
During the batwing craze, the Xroads didn't sell well.....but I thought it was the best deal out there.
Truly a great bike. Just nothing like what Victory offered.

I have enjoyed following this thread and living vicariously through it, lol.

Wish I could do the same thing. Just blew the engine on our car (timing belt snapped....bye bye valves) and bought a pontoon boat....so....not happening....haha.
 
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