[Chattanooga_Mark]

I have a difficult time believing this S&S air filter holder does anything more than provide the same place to tie wrap the wiring harness to. I see no valid reason for the front ‘duckbill’ covering the frame. The molded in S&S logo looks cute though. I guess that will be seen after I get the tank back on.

I also have a difficult time believing there’s a real world difference in performance between the Lloyds K&N type air filter and the Victory Performance K&N type air filter.

 

[MagVic CCT]

Greater surface area on the Lloyds. Does that translate to more air in? I would think so. What is it worth in HP? I don't know.

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

Tonight i removed the side covers, the seat, the tank, the front cover and the left front frame cover.
Next up:

Wrap a stainless wire around the fuel pump filter for mechanical retention

Replace the battery with a new Yuasa

Replace the 40Amp circuit breaker

Bring the switched power into the headlight bucket for the driving lights. The oem harness is a couple inches too short for comfort. It would be strung way too tight to use as is. I’ll install a waterproof 2 wire connector with pigtails I bought at Autozone. that will give it plenty of room to move the bars full right to full left without stretching the harness

Make a 2 wire harness to wire the USB outlet I mounted on the handlebars to the switched connection for the heated seat

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

Greater surface area on the Lloyds. Does that translate to more air in? I would think so. What is it worth in HP? I don't know.

I agree with that theory but the reality could be quite different. It’s possible the rear portion of the Lloyds filter that’s closest to the opening passes the overwhelming majority of all the air. The sides and the front are surrounded by, and very close to, the frame.

My CCT has 96K miles on Lloyd’s air filters and I’ve never seen evidence it was moving air anywhere near the full circumference of the available pleats. I typically clean the Lloyds air filter every 30K miles.

 

[notaharley]

I agree with that theory but the reality could be quite different. It’s possible the rear portion of the Lloyds filter that’s closest to the opening passes the overwhelming majority of all the air. The sides and the front are surrounded by, and very close to, the frame.

My CCT has 96K miles on Lloyd’s air filters and I’ve never seen evidence it was moving air anywhere near the full circumference of the available pleats. I typically clean the Lloyds air filter every 30K miles.

Anecdotal evidence is terrific.

There is much more to air flow than a filter. You are bound by the design of the plenum and throttle bodies.

Lloydz filter is proven through time and Dyno runs. If you want more power, you'll have to ride a Vision, lol. Flows air way better!

Stop messing around and just mount the turbo charger, for heaven's sake.

 

[WeekendRider]

Next up:

Replace the battery with a new Yuasa

I was on a trip a few years ago and my battery decided to take a big dump. The only place around was a HD dealership, so off my buddy went with my dead battery. Other than the HD parts guy being a jerk (he didn't want to help, he kept asking for what year/model HD it was needed for, even though he knew it was for a Vic XC,) my buddy came back with the same size/spec battery as the OEM from my bike. The only thing different were the posts, it had attachment points both on top and on the front side. That was cool because it allowed me to connect the main lines to the top of the post as usual, and to move my accessory wires to the front of the post. It's much easier to deal with now and much easier to keep the screws tight (insert joke here.) Anyway, if you can find such a replacement I would recommend it.

 

[Obi Steve]

Greater surface area on the Lloyds. Does that translate to more air in? I would think so. What is it worth in HP? I don't know.

Has anyone measured the dimensions and calculated the surface area on the Lloyds?

 

[Obi Steve]

Anecdotal evidence is terrific.

There is much more to air flow than a filter. You are bound by the design of the plenum and throttle bodies.

Lloydz filter is proven through time and Dyno runs. If you want more power, you'll have to ride a Vision, lol. Flows air way better!

Stop messing around and just mount the turbo charger, for heaven's sake.

Or cut a hole in the frame backbone like the Vision.

 

[VSprocket]

I see no valid reason for the front ‘duckbill’ covering the frame.

I agree it appears that it does not provide any benefits. I wonder if that duckbill and SS logo is to avoid any patent infringements?

I've enjoyed reading your posts on getting the CR ready. Looking forward to seeing some road pics.

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

Tonight I got that stainless wire wrapped around the fuel pump to offer some mechanical retention of the fuel filter. I think it likely wasn’t necessary because there isn’t really anything trying to push the fuel filter off the pump.

The new battery is in. I decided against replacing the 40 Amp circuit breaker because it looks clean and the wires are still tight. Zero Evian any corrosion as well. Another part added to my Parts Shelf.

The LED driving lights are now fully functional and I was finally able to replace the headlight bucket lid. I really love these driving lights. I have a J.W. Speaker Adaptive 2 LED headlight on order which will complete the forward lighting. These headlights are on back order for a couple more months.

Tomorrow I’ll finish the wire harness for the USB port, change the spark plugs and put everything back together.

Just in time for a local bike shop open house/anniversary party on Saturday.

I’m really enjoying working on the Hard-Ball and I’m looking forward to some additional upgrades soon. Most notably is getting the S&S cams installed.

I have Monday off from work so I’ll likely change all the brake pads to Lyndall Gold.

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

Tentative S&S cam install and rubber throttle body replacement date is Feb 28th.

 

[md2420]

Tentative S&S cam install and rubber throttle body replacement date is Feb 28th.

Here’s to hoping it doesn’t get pushed to the 29th.

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

Only 70 miles today but the Hard-Ball looks and runs great. It garnered a lot of nice compliments as well.

Sometimes the taillight lights the full length and sometimes just the top half lights up. I’ll get a new one on order soon.

 

[Obi Steve]

Only 70 miles today but the Hard-Ball looks and runs great. It garnered a lot of nice compliments as well.

Sometimes the taillight lights the full length and sometimes just the top half lights up. I’ll get a new one on order soon.

Yeah, that's the start of the common problem. I've gotta pull mine out, cut it open and fix it. Then I'll be able to take the trunk off. Let us know how easy it is to buy a new one.

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

Hard-Ball (Cross bike) taillight, item number 2411623, is readily available for $208.61 USD at www.victorypartspro.com

 

[Obi Steve]

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind if it doesn't work after I repair it.

 

[Bikesofbrads]

My tail light did the same thing so I bought, installed the new replacement and plan to repair my original one as a spare. As my luck goes soon afterwards I noticed a few bulbs out on the trunks light so I getta fix it too 😛

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

@Bikesofbrads and @Obi Steve, that’s my plan as well. What I’ve been doing the last few years is buying some of the Victory specific items just to have them if/when needed.

My CCT trunk light is fine but I have a new replacement on my Parts Shelf. Same with the voltage regulator and the Flasher relay etc. I’ll do the same with the very unique Victory Cross bike taillight. Buy a new one and then try to repair the original as others have posted about on TheVog.

I know Rylan and others recommend using www.victorymotorcles.com or WD to order parts. I see no reason to pay full MSRP when using www.victorypartspro.com gets me the exact same part at a 20% discount from MSRP. Plus Victory Parts Pro has MUCH lower shipping costs than the Don Woods site Rylan shows in his how to find parts video. A person can buy a lot of Tootsie Rolls for a 20% savings on the parts.

 

[Obi Steve]

@Bikesofbrads and @Obi Steve, that’s my plan as well. What I’ve been doing the last few years is buying some of the Victory specific items just to have them if/when needed.

My CCT trunk light is fine but I have a new replacement on my Parts Shelf. Same with the voltage regulator and the Flasher relay etc. I’ll do the same with the very unique Victory Cross bike taillight. Buy a new one and then try to repair the original as others have posted about on TheVog.

I know Rylan and others recommend using www.victorymotorcles.com or WD to order parts. I see no reason to pay full MSRP when using www.victorypartspro.com gets me the exact same part at a 20% discount from MSRP. Plus Victory Parts Pro has MUCH lower shipping costs than the Don Woods site Rylan shows in his how to find parts video. A person can buy a lot of Tootsie Rolls for a 20% savings on the parts.

Great that they're still available, but pretty sure that US $208 would be A $600 by the time it reached here for a bulky item like that. Unfortunately that's out of reach at the moment, equivalent of 1.5 tyres. I need to buy 3 of them too.

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

Here's a quick rundown of the cost for the Cross bike taillight and the rubber trim pad I'll also replace at the same time. All shipping and parts costs are USD. But the Total cost does NOT include TN sales tax which is just under 10% of the parts cost.

I've done this many times with many items over the years and it seems the results consistently come back as shown below. The Victory Motorcycles website doesn't always get the Victory model wrong. But the Witchdoctors website is most definitely always beyond frustrating. Easily the worst website 'upgrade' I've ever seen.

2411623 Assembly, Taillight MSRP $284.99
5413502 Pad, Rear Trim MSRP $9.99

www.victorypartspro.com
$208.61, taillight
$6.90, pad
$21.65, shipping
$237.16, total

www.victorymotorcycles.com
$284.99, taillight
$9.99 pad
$9.99, shipping
$304.97, total
*This 'Official' site only showed me parts for a KingPin even though it acknowledged I entered a parts search for a 2013 Hard-Ball. I had to enter the actual item numbers to get pricing. Then the site said these items WILL NOT fit a 2013 Hard-Ball. Way to go Polaris!

www.buywitchdoctors.com
$284.99, taillight
$7.99, pad
$0.00, shipping
$292.98, total

www.victoryparts.net
$208.61, taillight
$6.00 pad
$49.99, Shipping
$264.60

A quick glance at eBay shows USED taillight opening bids between $200 and $267 with shipping between $20 and $70. I already have a 'used' one that came on the bike and it sporadically lights the full length.