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New To Me Victory Hard-Ball
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648 Posts
Make sure you open the box right next to the bike, so the S&S factory air wafts over the engine. It's proven to add another 5 hp I read on the internet.
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4,317 Posts
It's the Victory magic.
Just gripping the throttle tighter used to add torque.
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2,659 Posts
IV'E HEARD IT COULD AD POSSIBLY 8HP NET GAIN!?? WHOODATHUNKIT!!!????
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2,659 Posts
I HAVE ALSO HEARD THAT WHEN YA ADD NEW MATCHED AVON SPECIAL COMPOUND TIRES MADE OF GAMMAGLOBULIN COMPOUND ya get a net gain at the rear wheel of anywheres from possibly 8 to 10 bhp. in all probability possibly to 11bhp,providing they are matching serial number tires in sequence to have the righjt amount of gammaglobulin in them for less rolling ressistance.! what a deal. also bro. WE NEED MO' PICS!!!! PUHLEASE!!!!
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6,852 Posts
Here are some comparison pictures between the oem Cross bike air filter horseshoe and the S&S Diverter version. The 3 mounting holes and the wire harness tie wrap holding points are identical.
The front ‘D’ shaped opening measures the same on both, 77mm along the bottom and 48mm tall. The main difference seems to be the S&S Diverter horseshoe looks designed to channel as much air through the ‘D’ as possible. The oem horseshoe, being wider and sealed off with the rubber strip against the tank, seems to limit the amount of air that can get through the same ‘D’ shaped front opening.
S&S designed their High Flow Air Dam way they did for a reason. It was certainly not just an afterthought. I’d guess someone with a 3D printer could reproduce these. The S&S item number for their High Flow Air Dam is 5453462. I sent an email to S&S Tech asking if this item is or was ever available separately. S&S responded quickly that they no longer have this air dam available. The S&S Technician suggested asking Lloyds to see if they have any available. I'd doubt that as all Lloyds would offer is their air filter.
I don’t have a Lloyds air filter that’s not installed to photograph the Victory High Performance side by side to the Lloyds. My guesstimate is with the Lloyd’s filter only drawing from the sides compared to the Vic Perf. Filter drawing from the top, actual airflow is quite similar. Certainly S&S knew about and likely tested the Lloyd’s filter against their design as well.
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The front ‘D’ shaped opening measures the same on both, 77mm along the bottom and 48mm tall. The main difference seems to be the S&S Diverter horseshoe looks designed to channel as much air through the ‘D’ as possible. The oem horseshoe, being wider and sealed off with the rubber strip against the tank, seems to limit the amount of air that can get through the same ‘D’ shaped front opening.
S&S designed their High Flow Air Dam way they did for a reason. It was certainly not just an afterthought. I’d guess someone with a 3D printer could reproduce these. The S&S item number for their High Flow Air Dam is 5453462. I sent an email to S&S Tech asking if this item is or was ever available separately. S&S responded quickly that they no longer have this air dam available. The S&S Technician suggested asking Lloyds to see if they have any available. I'd doubt that as all Lloyds would offer is their air filter.
I don’t have a Lloyds air filter that’s not installed to photograph the Victory High Performance side by side to the Lloyds. My guesstimate is with the Lloyd’s filter only drawing from the sides compared to the Vic Perf. Filter drawing from the top, actual airflow is quite similar. Certainly S&S knew about and likely tested the Lloyd’s filter against their design as well.
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6,852 Posts
Last night I installed the CCT heated seat as well as the oem backrest. When i left the garage this morning it was 31 degrees F so the heated seat was most appreciated.
This morning I was able to get both the CR/Hard-Ball speedometer upgrade-download as well as the Tri Ovals fuel map download. In a word, both are excellent! I love the additional speedometer functionality and the Tri Ovals fuel map is noticeably improved over the oem fuel map. The O2 sensors are also reconnected.
Next up is to install the oem heated grips, a USB charging port, a new battery and driving lights. The battery and the lights should deliver next week. I made a Y connector for the heated seat plug. I’ll use that same fused and switched power supply for the USB connection.
A bit further down the road is to get the S&S cam kit installed along with its corresponding fuel map.
This morning I was able to get both the CR/Hard-Ball speedometer upgrade-download as well as the Tri Ovals fuel map download. In a word, both are excellent! I love the additional speedometer functionality and the Tri Ovals fuel map is noticeably improved over the oem fuel map. The O2 sensors are also reconnected.
Next up is to install the oem heated grips, a USB charging port, a new battery and driving lights. The battery and the lights should deliver next week. I made a Y connector for the heated seat plug. I’ll use that same fused and switched power supply for the USB connection.
A bit further down the road is to get the S&S cam kit installed along with its corresponding fuel map.
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139 Posts
Nice job on the CR updates. I'm rather surprised you've secured some new items. I've been looking for passenger grab bars but most are damage or too expensive.
I too am looking for second Vic but have not decided on a model. I was leaning towards a kingpin but you've got me rethinking.
Was there a specific reason you stayed with the x model? How does the handling of the CR compare to CCT?
I too am looking for second Vic but have not decided on a model. I was leaning towards a kingpin but you've got me rethinking.
Was there a specific reason you stayed with the x model? How does the handling of the CR compare to CCT?
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6,852 Posts
I considered a couple steel frame models (High-Ball, Boardwalk, Hammer) but ultimately decided I’m better suited to the Cross bike range. The CCT was my first ever Victory and, IMHO, it was a grand slam home run.
A CR has been at the top of my list for a long time. Then this H-B was advertised here on the forum and I knew right off, that’s the one. My CCT has always received and continues to receive a lot of very positive comments. The Hard-Ball takes that to a whole new level. They’re fairly rare being a two model year bike, 2013-2913.
The H-B is a much different riding experience to the CCT. Without the weight of the fairing, lowers, trunk and the associated amps/speakers etc., the H-B feels like a 500cc bike.
Plus my Parts Shelf only has to contend with one brand and essentially one model. Just about everything fits both bikes.
If you can find one, I wholeheartedly recommend a Victory Hard-Ball. But, the CCT isn’t going anywhere. I’m still in love with it.
A CR has been at the top of my list for a long time. Then this H-B was advertised here on the forum and I knew right off, that’s the one. My CCT has always received and continues to receive a lot of very positive comments. The Hard-Ball takes that to a whole new level. They’re fairly rare being a two model year bike, 2013-2913.
The H-B is a much different riding experience to the CCT. Without the weight of the fairing, lowers, trunk and the associated amps/speakers etc., the H-B feels like a 500cc bike.
Plus my Parts Shelf only has to contend with one brand and essentially one model. Just about everything fits both bikes.
If you can find one, I wholeheartedly recommend a Victory Hard-Ball. But, the CCT isn’t going anywhere. I’m still in love with it.
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648 Posts
Had any cheeky kids tell you that you stole Batman's bike yet? I've found a good response is to ask them not to tell him when they see him, or better yet that it's not stolen from him, but won from him in an arm wrestling contest.
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139 Posts
That is what I was hoping to hear. Not that the CCT is difficult to handle. But I can feel the weight difference when I ride my C50.
My goal was to resurrected an abused kingpin or hammer. But not sure now.
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9,779 Posts
Keeping my CCT. Just not another like it. I guess my favorite thing about it is the roominess. So big, yet so snug a fit. I still am not sure how they accomplished that. Of course the cams and all along with the handling doesn't hurt. I guess the best summation I can come up with is that it inspires confidence.
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648 Posts
I did, but kept them both.
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4,317 Posts
I remember when (Lloydz, I think) the triovals were Dyno tested. Less HP than stock. I had bought them and was unhappy at this turn of events!
Went to pipes from John at Witch doctor's and was pretty happy with them and had a small gain.
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6,852 Posts
I've never seen, heard or read anything that claims Tri Ovals reduce power compared to oem Cross bike mufflers. If you can verify that, please do.
I’ve been looking at Victory Cross bike dyno graphs for many years. I have yet to see a set of slip on mufflers that have as high, as wide and as flat a torque curve as the Tri Ovals. Many make more noise, are louder and have higher peak numbers somewhere on the graph. But when you consider all three: high, wide and flat torque curve, I have yet to see better mufflers than the Cobra Tri Ovals on a Victory Cross bike. Chasing peak numbers comes at a cost to the high, wide and flat scenario.
I had Tri Ovals on my CCT from day one. After 40K mikes, I replaced them with Raging Cajun Medium Low & Throaty. Loved the sound of those new mufflers. They had higher peak numbers and sounded awesome. But the torque curve wasn’t as high, wide and flat. After another 25K miles I replaced the Medium Low & Throatys with Raging Cajun Adjustable DDTs. Another beautiful increase in sound and the bike revs like a 2 stroke. But once again, the dyno showed higher peak numbers but no where near as high, wide and flat a torque curve as the Tri Ovals.
There isn’t a perfect set of slip ons but if you find a set that offers a higher, wider and a flatter torque curve than the Tri Ovals, you’ll be the first.
YMMV
I’ve been looking at Victory Cross bike dyno graphs for many years. I have yet to see a set of slip on mufflers that have as high, as wide and as flat a torque curve as the Tri Ovals. Many make more noise, are louder and have higher peak numbers somewhere on the graph. But when you consider all three: high, wide and flat torque curve, I have yet to see better mufflers than the Cobra Tri Ovals on a Victory Cross bike. Chasing peak numbers comes at a cost to the high, wide and flat scenario.
I had Tri Ovals on my CCT from day one. After 40K mikes, I replaced them with Raging Cajun Medium Low & Throaty. Loved the sound of those new mufflers. They had higher peak numbers and sounded awesome. But the torque curve wasn’t as high, wide and flat. After another 25K miles I replaced the Medium Low & Throatys with Raging Cajun Adjustable DDTs. Another beautiful increase in sound and the bike revs like a 2 stroke. But once again, the dyno showed higher peak numbers but no where near as high, wide and flat a torque curve as the Tri Ovals.
There isn’t a perfect set of slip ons but if you find a set that offers a higher, wider and a flatter torque curve than the Tri Ovals, you’ll be the first.
YMMV
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6,852 Posts
Stopped by a stripped bolt.
Tonight I installed the heat shields that are just in front of the Tri Ovals. I had them ceramic coated because they were looking a bit tired and they were a both a bit scraped up. The oem hose clamp broke on the right side one so I’ll pick up a new one tomorrow.
Then I removed the original brackets on the Mid Height screen and replaced them with the brackets I had powder coated from the Tall screen. It looks great! I’ll drop off the other set of brackets to get powder coated on Monday.
Then I figured I’d install the Show Chrome/Big Bike Parts 3.5” black LED driving lights. I had a heck of a time removing the front turn left turn signal. I cut a 5mm Allen wrench down a bit so it would fit in the mount. There’s a threaded boss that’s close to the turn signal mounting bolt but I’m not sure what the threaded boss is used for. The front turn signal mounting bolt is a very difficult bolt to get to. You can barely see it let alone get a full turn on it. For some reason Polaris saw fit to coat that small bolt with red Locktite. Making removing it even more difficult. Going only 1/4 turn at a time I was finally able to get the left bolt out. I replaced it with a new stainless one and got the left light mounted.
The bolt on the right side striped out right away. I got the bolt maybe a full turn loose and that’s it. I’ll pick up an extra long 5mm ball head Allen wrench tomorrow to see if that will work. If not, I’ll try a similar sized Torx head driver. I really don’t want to remove the headlight bucket and then the turn signal mount unless I have to.
The wiring harness that came with the Victory Cross Roads light kit is a bit odd.The directions say to get power from the switched connection by the left front tank mount. I’ll have to make another harness about a foot long to get that power into the headlight bucket. There’s no way the Victory Cross Roads driving light harness can reach it.
Oh well, it’s late so I’m going to bed. I’ll get back to the Hard-Ball tomorrow.
Tonight I installed the heat shields that are just in front of the Tri Ovals. I had them ceramic coated because they were looking a bit tired and they were a both a bit scraped up. The oem hose clamp broke on the right side one so I’ll pick up a new one tomorrow.
Then I removed the original brackets on the Mid Height screen and replaced them with the brackets I had powder coated from the Tall screen. It looks great! I’ll drop off the other set of brackets to get powder coated on Monday.
Then I figured I’d install the Show Chrome/Big Bike Parts 3.5” black LED driving lights. I had a heck of a time removing the front turn left turn signal. I cut a 5mm Allen wrench down a bit so it would fit in the mount. There’s a threaded boss that’s close to the turn signal mounting bolt but I’m not sure what the threaded boss is used for. The front turn signal mounting bolt is a very difficult bolt to get to. You can barely see it let alone get a full turn on it. For some reason Polaris saw fit to coat that small bolt with red Locktite. Making removing it even more difficult. Going only 1/4 turn at a time I was finally able to get the left bolt out. I replaced it with a new stainless one and got the left light mounted.
The bolt on the right side striped out right away. I got the bolt maybe a full turn loose and that’s it. I’ll pick up an extra long 5mm ball head Allen wrench tomorrow to see if that will work. If not, I’ll try a similar sized Torx head driver. I really don’t want to remove the headlight bucket and then the turn signal mount unless I have to.
The wiring harness that came with the Victory Cross Roads light kit is a bit odd.The directions say to get power from the switched connection by the left front tank mount. I’ll have to make another harness about a foot long to get that power into the headlight bucket. There’s no way the Victory Cross Roads driving light harness can reach it.
Oh well, it’s late so I’m going to bed. I’ll get back to the Hard-Ball tomorrow.
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648 Posts
Might not need a 3D printer. Could probably use a heat gun to fold the scoop out of plastic sheet and weld it to the stock dam intake. Wouldn't be as smoothly flowing as the S&S one but would get some ram air affect. If it worked, would need to be tuned for.
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