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Some time back I remember reading the Freedom 106 engine was built to handle 140/140 hp/tq which means this kit keeps it just under that margin in tq to make a true bolt on kit.

I'd like to have this on something other than an X-bike or Vision. Something light like a Gunner, Hammer, or Kingpin. Something easy to trailer to the quarter mile track so if it blew the engine or just a belt; it would be no big deal to load back up on the trailer. Plus it would just be too much fun on a lighter bike. Knowing me I'd get too many tickets in the first week and couldn't ride for a year or something.

Talk about a Harley eater! Whoa!
 

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Some time back I remember reading the Freedom 106 engine was built to handle 140/140 hp/tq which means this kit keeps it just under that margin in tq to make a true bolt on kit.
What determines if a big bore kit is "bolt on" is not how much power it makes, it's how big the bore is. The bottom of the cylinders have to fit in the holes in the cases.

If you machne the cases (case boring) it weakens the cases. This is why the 129 and 132 never worked out.

I'd like to have this on something other than an X-bike or Vision. Something light like a Gunner, Hammer, or Kingpin. Something easy to trailer to the quarter mile track so if it blew the engine or just a belt; it would be no big deal to load back up on the trailer. Plus it would just be too much fun on a lighter bike. Knowing me I'd get too many tickets in the first week and couldn't ride for a year or something.
Owning a bike that exceeds 140 ft-lbs that is ridden to the drag strip and ridden home afterward, i can assure you that a trailer is not necessary. What makes you think the belt will break or the engine will blow up?

As far as getting tickets, you ride how you ride. The power really doesn't change anything except your frustration that traffic, police, read conditions don't allow you to use the power very often and only in short bursts.
 

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What determines if a big bore kit is "bolt on" is not how much power it makes, it's how big the bore is. The bottom of the cylinders have to fit in the holes in the cases.

If you machne the cases (case boring) it weakens the cases. This is why the 129 and 132 never worked out.
If we were to say, use a longer rod, and use a "spacer" between case and cylinder, with a sleeve, then we don't need to **** with the case... Increase bore and stroke, may kill some rpm...

I know it's a stupid idea, but I like think about it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm sure this kit with the .495 cams would produce similar numbers as @Half_Crazy 116". It's just another option for those who are building a beast. I've been wanting more out of my bike for a number of years but have never been in a place that I can dump that kind of cash into a toy. But.... that's slowly changing and perhaps maybe this spring I can do it.
 

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What determines if a big bore kit is "bolt on" is not how much power it makes, it's how big the bore is. The bottom of the cylinders have to fit in the holes in the cases.

If you machne the cases (case boring) it weakens the cases. This is why the 129 and 132 never worked out.

Owning a bike that exceeds 140 ft-lbs that is ridden to the drag strip and ridden home afterward, i can assure you that a trailer is not necessary. What makes you think the belt will break or the engine will blow up?

As far as getting tickets, you ride how you ride. The power really doesn't change anything except your frustration that traffic, police, read conditions don't allow you to use the power very often and only in short bursts.
True. You can always use a ladies nylon stocking as a belt to limp home like they use to do with a broken old style fan belt if a replacement belt is not available. Nice thing about Vic's is they can be replaced easily. Not sure what the plan might be for a blown engine but there would probably be room on someone's trailer.

I know me. I'd get tickets. Hopefully I'd learn to take it to the track to have the real fun before I got so many tickets I'd lose my license to ride.
 

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If we were to say, use a longer rod, and use a "spacer" between case and cylinder, with a sleeve, then we don't need to **** with the case... Increase bore and stroke, may kill some rpm...

I know it's a stupid idea, but I like think about it...
A different crank would negate the need for the spacer, but now that you got me thinking about spacers...how about a 1mm spacer between the cylinders and the heads to increase displacement and some high compression pistons to
The 132 died a quiet death...don't think it ever made it into a bike?

There 117 kit is claiming 119 HP and 137 TQ...seems the HP# is a little low. The 137 is nice...Has anyone know of a bike it is in?

So they have a big boar...heads...but no cams...I would think a set of cams matched to their kit would make sense?
i noticed something weird about the numbers too. Did you see their before and after dyno charts? Before: 83 hp. Sounds right on for stock. Before tq: 120. That sounds REALLY high for stock. Then the after, 137 tq sounds about right for a Lloyd's 116 so that sounds good, but only 119 hp? I get 115 hp out of my 100". I'm thinking either intake or exhaust is killing the hp curve near peak on this example.
I'm also curious about boring to 108 mm and nikasil plating. Lloyd used to do that with his 104/110 big bore but when he went to a109/116 big bore he switched to an iron liner. I'm wondering if stock cylinders bored to 108 mm leaves enough wall thickness?
Definitely interesting though. I hope without any more Vic's being made there's still enough of a market that we get some real world feedback.
 

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I called Revolution Performance months ago and asked about their 117 big bore kit and how much HP and TQ it put out. One of the guys at Revolution Performance has 117 big bore kit, 495 cams, their ported heads with larger valves , 11.0 compression , Performance mufflers ,and it puts out 140 HP and 140 TQ. I was told this by a guy on the phone there.
 

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If we were to say, use a longer rod, and use a "spacer" between case and cylinder, with a sleeve, then we don't need to **** with the case... Increase bore and stroke, may kill some rpm...
You could make the rods 4 feet long, that wouldn't change the stroke of the engine. Stroke is in the crank pin's distance from the centerline of the crank....

The sleeves at the bottom where the cylinders slip into the cases on my engine are thin... they can't be any thinner... The bore is all you get without boring the cases... a spacer solves nothing.... plus if the engine was any taller it wouldn't fit in the frame.
 

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I'm sure it's a very good package and all the parts / modifications are top notch...but...at that price, I don't think they will be selling a lot of them. Remember...we got guys putting car tires on there bike and using rotella...all because they are cheap bastards... I'm sorry frugal bastards...

For my purposes I'm doing NOS... 150 / 150 for $1000
For what they want for their big bore , performance kit ,plus the extra labor to have it all installed , the cost was way out of my price range too.
 

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I wonder how different the head work is from what I have now......

When I saw the 132” video earlier in the year it still had the stock airbox, looking at the work they did I’m sure those number would be a lot higher (on a steel frame) with Torque Tubes and cams.

Knowing me I would love to add a larger throttle body, and bump the compression up to at least 10.5:1 in addition to everything else.

Given that the bore & stroke would be the same with this kit one would think it would be a blast to ride, especially in a lightweight bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
To be honest, this “kit” doesn’t offer much. For the price , why not go see Lloyd , Rylan, Kevin, or Kyle ? Their stuff and work on vics is well proven.
 

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A different crank would negate the need for the spacer, but now that you got me thinking about spacers...how about a 1mm spacer between the cylinders and the heads to increase displacement and some high compression pistons to[/QIOTE]
What are to accomplishing with the spacer? All it would do is drop compression and not much else. It would not change displacement, which is a function of bore and stroke.

I'm also curious about boring to 108 mm and nikasil plating. Lloyd used to do that with his 104/110 big bore but when he went to a109/116 big bore he switched to an iron liner. I'm wondering if stock cylinders bored to 108 mm leaves enough wall thickness ?
Definitely interesting though. I hope without any more Vic's being made there's still enough of a market that we get some real world feedback.
Stroke is 108mm... If the bore were also 108mm that' a 122" engine.
The 110" was a 108mm stroke and a 103mm bore and was done in both iron and Nikasil plated aluminum. A 108mm bore would require case boring.
Stock bore is 101mm with a stroke of 108mm for 106".... Bore it 2mm (103x108) and you get a 110". Bore it 4-1/3mm 105.3x108) and you get a 114.7" (116).

You could put 20 head gaskets in it... all that would do is decrease compression....
You can put longer rods in it and raise the wrist pins in the pistons so the piston won't hit the head... Neither will change displacement one bit. That's not how it works.
 

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I think I'd just keep the stock bore and stroke reliability and send the top end to George Bryce for some work...its all about the airflow... imho
I'm NOT at all saying any of the other combos are not reliable at all, lets just get that out there please lol
 

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I think I'd just keep the stock bore and stroke reliability and send the top end to George Bryce for some work...its all about the airflow... imho
I'm NOT at all saying any of the other combos are not reliable at all, lets just get that out there please lol
Are you doing the work yourself? Adding cams or compression while you're in there??
 
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