Never before..... | Page 4 | Victory Motorcycles: Motorcycle Forums

Never before.....

Discussion in 'Tech Q&A' started by paull564, May 15, 2021.

  1. big Tony

    big Tony New Member

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    this is a great site for us folks down under , there are a lot of Victory owners down here , in Western Australia and as we have been left up to our own by Polaris / Indian this site is very welcomed .
    cheers for the incite .
    shinny side up !!
     
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  2. Richie271

    Richie271 Active Member

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    I do not believe that the copper washers are truly, (crush washers). They are just flat, copper washers. A true crush washer has two layers that crush together to form a seal and can not or should not be used a second time.
     
  3. Chattanooga_Mark

    Chattanooga_Mark Well-Known Member

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    A sealing washer then? If the copper isn’t supposed to form a seal, by distortion, then you may as well use a steel or a stainless washer. Maybe even a nylon or a fiber washer.
    I could be wrong but every other drain plug I’ve seen used a soft compound washer to form/distort to make a seal. They were also single use washers.
     
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  4. RoteBarron

    RoteBarron Active Member

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    Paul , Paul, Paul, Paul, Paul....A - It;s aluminum (the case) and 2. OVER 50 years (roughly 58) and NEVER EVER used a torque wrench on ANY oil change.....Cars, trucks, Motor-homes, tractors and last but not least motorcycles of various an asundry brands. Annnnd I've never had a leak and most importantly, NEVER stripped even one.....JMHO but for you and all the spec type shadtree mechanics ( and I bee one ;-) ) fagitaboutthedamn torque wrench. Use the crush washer, snug it. and check for a leak when you start it and fagitaboutit..... There are other threads of this and helicoils seem to work on aluminum.....personally never used one but that's what I've heard. Failing that you could get a slightly larger plug and drill and tap it it but that would be way more troublish than a heli-coil or other insert product. Let us know what works for you.. (OBTW just funnin' with you man it sucks but at least it's repiariable. ) ;-) LMYR
     
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  5. paull564

    paull564 New Member

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    I have changed the oil in this bike since 2014, every season/ 5K miles. Dealer did first change at 500 miles. Used a torque wrench every time. Never used never seize.
     
  6. John G

    John G Active Member

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    Here’s the deal, from years of being and Aircraft engineer, using crush washers both aluminium and copper: Both materials are soft and will crush on tightening. No one is better than the other. But copper is reusable. The copper crush washers can be annealed, but heating them up to a cherry red color and then quenching in water. That softens them back up for reuse. However, it’s much better just to throw them away and get new ones. The aluminium ones need to be discarded as they are single use.

    The sump case is aluminium. It’s relatively soft and if you over torque the drain plug you will strip them out. Or, if you get the plug cross threaded, which, due to its location is not difficult to do also. So to prevent cross threading, do this. Rotate the drain plug backwards when you put it in until you feel it kind of click. The click feeling is very subtle, but it occurs when the drain plug thread end hits the case thread end. Once. You feel it click or catch, you can then thread it into the case by hand without cross threading it. Once it’s up tight, just put a wrench on it and snug it up. No need to use a torque wrench on it, but don’t swing on it. The surface area of the crush washer against the case and the face of the drain plug will be enough to ensure it doesn’t fall out. I would think a torque of around 80 inch pounds would be adequate if you obsessed with torquing it.

    You don’t need to use thread seal tape on the threads, as others have suggested. the crush washer seals, not the threads. Thread seal tape is really only for pipe threads, which are tapered and use the threads to seal. However, I do understand the reasoning for using it here, to provide a more friction free installation. I just don’t recommend it.

    The solution to a stripped out thread has already been covered and the helicoil or other alternative are both good options. The critical thing with a helical or the other method is that when you insert the larger tap to rethread the case for the helicoil insert, you must have the ingoing thread square and even. You don’t want to create a new thread for the insert and have it crooked. So, to do a good job, you need to lie the bike over on it’s side so you can really get an accurate situation to squarely cut the new thread.

    i have found that the older I get, for some reason, I tend to snug up bolts, nuts and plugs harder than I should. I don’t I know why, but I’m smart enough to realize it and I’m taking more care. I think winding up the plug with a torque wrench isn’t a good idea. If you have it cross threaded to start, you might not know it, being that you are lying on the ground, the bike is on it’s side stand and you are swing on it with a torque wrench as well.

    The only way to prevent cross threading is to screw it in by hand, as i suggested, starting backwards to get the threads parallel. It works, trust me. I’ve used the technique for many years on planes where you can’t even see what you are doing, you can only get one hand in there, and you have to do it all by feel.

    I hope this helps.
     
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  7. Bikesofbrads

    Bikesofbrads Well-Known Member

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    So hanging off a 3ft long cheater pipe on an 1inch drive breaker bars overkill on the oil plug :22yikes:
     
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  8. John G

    John G Active Member

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    All depends whether you ate your wheaties before you start swinging on it.
     
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  9. JamesBond

    JamesBond Well-Known Member

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    Teflon tape works, because it puts a sealing surface on every thread. Therefore no need to overtighten....:banghead:
     
  10. Motorbikerx

    Motorbikerx Well-Known Member

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    Welcome Tony!
    Aussie East Coaster here mate!
    VFFV
     
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  11. Chattanooga_Mark

    Chattanooga_Mark Well-Known Member

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    Could be, but not necessarily. It depends who’s controlling the business end of the breaker bar. As long as there’s not a torque wrench involved, it could work.
     
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  12. IndyVictory

    IndyVictory Well-Known Member

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    I have seen torque wrenches used as breaker bars. :22yikes::banghead:
     
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  13. Bikesofbrads

    Bikesofbrads Well-Known Member

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    I’ve done it, sometimes ya gotta use what ya have that’ll work, is tough bean resourceful lol
     
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  14. IndyVictory

    IndyVictory Well-Known Member

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    Yeah but then your torque wrench is worthless as the internal spring is stretched out of spec.
     
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  15. normthenomad

    normthenomad Well-Known Member

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    Just grab the same impact wrench you use to remove the front pulley to tighten it down. That'll crush any washer you use, new or not.
     
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