In almost 50 yrs of driving and changing oil in cars trucks and motorcycles, for the first time in my life, I have appeared to strip my oil drain plug on my 2014 CCT. I can't believe this.
Right now it's just spinning. Will not tighten, will not come out. Hand tightened and was attempting to put 15 ft/lbs on it and it just keeps turning.
What type of metal is the oil pan on the 2014 CCT?
Advice, comments, recommendation?
Helicoil, looks like a spring kinda & is what they use to fix the F150’s stripped spark plugs issue, makes it better than original. Good luck & sorry to hear.
There's another brand called Time-Sert that is said to be the better way to go by Victory experts at The Vic Shop. A kit can be purchased for the size and thread pitch of the drain plug from places like Amazon. The technique is to ensure the hole is drilled perfectly straight and true.
Where you using a torque wrench? I believe the case is cast aluminum. This is my biggest fear with my CCT and why I'll likely start using a Mityvac oil extractor pump from now on.
Also, throw away the copper crush washers and use an aluminum crush washer. They're made to crush once and be replaced each and every time.
There's another brand called Time-Sert that is said to be the better way to go by Victory experts at The Vic Shop. A kit can be purchased for the size and thread pitch of the drain plug from places like Amazon. The technique is to ensure the hole is drilled perfectly straight and true.
Where you using a torque wrench? I believe the case is cast aluminum. This is my biggest fear with my CCT and why I'll likely start using a Mity Vac oil pump from now on.
Also, throw away the copper crush washers and use an aluminum crush washer. They're made to crush once and be replaced each and every time.
Nearly everyone who strips out the drain plug was using a torque wrench. That particular device should simply not be used on a drain plug as it’s simply not needed and causes many more problems than it could ever prevent.
Also, forget the copper crush washer and use aluminum ones instead.
First, jam a screw driver in between the pan and the lip on the plug to apply some force while unscrewing it to see if it will bite and come out. It may mean some help from someone with another screw driver too. You have to get the remaining threads to bite or you'll be drilling it out.
Second - there are oversize plugs that you can use to cut some new threads. Alternatively, the time sert as mentioned above.
Thirdly, lots of people strip out the threads on oil pans. We mostly hear about it because it's one of the few things lots of people feel confident doing. The pans are thin, usually a cast soft metal and the mistake is going too tight. Your 15 lbs of torque is too high even though that is the spec but not many know why including some mechanics. Torque specs are Engineering figures based on mathematical characteristics of the metals and thread. They are also dry specs. Adding lubrication alters the specs and after draining the oil your threads would be wet. If you take a look at any lubricated torque chart you'll see the difference. Any coating effects the torque with some of the more advanced lubricants going 60% or more. Doesn't matter if it's oil, grease, wax or thread sealer. Since I was a kid my dad taught me that if it's got 30 weight oil on it reduce the torque by 30%. Might not be really accurate but it was easy to remember. Your 15 pound/feet should really have been closer to 10. Check it out for yourself.
First, jam a screw driver in between the pan and the lip on the plug to apply some force while unscrewing it to see if it will bite and come out. It may mean some help from someone with another screw driver too. You have to get the remaining threads to bite or you'll be drilling it out.
Second - there are oversize plugs that you can use to cut some new threads. Alternatively, the time sert as mentioned above.
Thirdly, lots of people strip out the threads on oil pans. We mostly hear about it because it's one of the few things lots of people feel confident doing. The pans are thin, usually a cast soft metal and the mistake is going too tight. Your 15 lbs of torque is too high even though that is the spec but not many know why including some mechanics. Torque specs are Engineering figures based on mathematical characteristics of the metals and thread. They are also dry specs. Adding lubrication alters the specs and after draining the oil your threads would be wet. If you take a look at any lubricated torque chart you'll see the difference. Any coating effects the torque with some of the more advanced lubricants going 60% or more. Doesn't matter if it's oil, grease, wax or thread sealer. Since I was a kid my dad tought me that if it's got 30 weight oil on it reduce the torque by 30%. Might not be really accurate but it was easy to remember. Your 15 pound/feet should really have been closer to 10. Check it out for yourself.
^^^^ A forked screwdriver works very well helping unthread bolts. Depending how bad it is you’ll hafta decide if lil bigger plug will work or if need a time Sert. I concur with the Time - Sert, I hadn’t heard of that product but after a quick lookup it’s by far an improvement on the helicoil. The time Sert is a much more permanent solution, is secured inside the hole and shouldn’t back out when removing the oil plug next time, remember if you make grunting sounds when reinserting a oil drain plug…..it’s too tight, unless ur doin the Tim Allen “Tool Time” grunt just for fun
After lil more reading of the two ( helicoil vs time sert ) it appears the helicoil is great for bolts that aren’t often removed & the time sert is designed for bolts that are removed more often. I haven’t had to use either (knocking on wood) but is nice having a second option. Good luck
I’ve been wanting to do this for a while, this thread prompted me to action. I just ordered the Mityvac 7201 from Amazon. Under $100 delivered, well worth the peace of mind.
No have just hit my head too many times. Forgive my ignorance but I assume you put hose in where dip stick goes, lean bike to the right a tiny bit & turn pump on…..& then realize you forgot to put other end of hose in a drain pan or empty oil jug which helps keep the kitty litter industry going? Gotta admit it does sound pretty handy
Yes, the hose goes in the dipstick hole. It's a vacuum not a siphon, so no worries about leaning the bike, you just keep the suction going while you shove the hose around until no more comes out. The mighty vac dumps into it's own container so once your done you can pour it into another jug to dump off at the auto parts store, or take the vac itself to dump at the auto parts store.
The reason I chose the Mityvac 7201 is because it siphons the oil out of the crankcase as well as then dispenses the used oil out of it's tank and into another container. The 7201 also works manually with a hand pump as well as pneumatically.
My plan is to dispense the used oil from the Mityvac into empty iced tea gallon jugs. Then clean the Mityvac by siphoning a water/dish soap solution from a separate gallon jug into the Mityvac tank and then dispensing the mixture back into its jug. Therefore cleaning the Mityvac without getting my hands dirty.
I've also read that periodically running a tap into the drain plug hole is an excellent idea. The threads cut into the cast aluminum crankcase will stretch and distort a bit over time from being tightened/over tightened. Eventually, stripping the threads can happen easier than it would when the bike was new.
The drain plug itself is steel being tightened into aluminum threads. I've seen too many copper crush washers that seemed thicker than they should be. I'm not sure properly 'snugging up' the drain plug with such a thick copper washer would actually make the copper washer crush and seal. That's also why I purchase aluminum crush washers from places like Ace Hardware.
I've also read that periodically running a tap into the drain plug hole is an excellent idea. The threads cut into the cast aluminum crankcase will stretch and distort a bit over time from being tightened/over tightened. Eventually, stripping the threads can happen easier than it would when the bike was new.
The drain plug itself is steel being tightened into aluminum threads. I've seen too many copper crush washers that seemed thicker than they should be. I'm not sure properly 'snugging up' the drain plug with such a thick copper washer would actually make the copper washer crush and seal. That's also why I purchase aluminum crush washers from places like Ace Hardware.
A couple of things. The formal name is a cutting tap. A tap works by cutting the threads in the metal. Any distortion from the original of the threads will be removed with a tap is correct however you will be making the threads thinner. Thinner also means easier to distort which will again be removed if a tap is used again. Over time you could theoretically strip out all the threads with that process. If you put that much torque on your bolts that are in and out a lot I'd suggest a thread chaser. It re-forms the material rather than remove it. When needed I usually just make my own by cutting a couple of slots in a harder bolt.
Copper is soft and adds resistance to the pressure which is why it makes a good seal. When tightened down it continues to push back ensuring the seal. One characteristic of copper is that it gets harder as it's worked. If you're going to reused copper washers they should occasionally be heated up to anneal them and soften them up again. Aluminum does not push back and stays with the shape it's forced into. That makes it a weaker choice and is specifically the reason aluminum house wiring is banned in so many locations for causing fires.
I use the copper washers, a new one when I change oil. Just tightened down to a firm "snug". Checked it with a torque wrench once just because, 11ft lbs. Haven't stripped one yet.
Dunno if I'm smarter or not but I've never had an issue with oil pan bolts on any vehicle cos I don't use a torque wrench.
Do we really live in a world where people can't tell when a sump bung is tight enough?
How the hell do you know when to stop turning an oil filter?
In almost 50 yrs of driving and changing oil in cars trucks and motorcycles, for the first time in my life, I have appeared to strip my oil drain plug on my 2014 CCT. I can't believe this.
Right now it's just spinning. Will not tighten, will not come out. Hand tightened and was attempting to put 15 ft/lbs on it and it just keeps turning.
What type of metal is the oil pan on the 2014 CCT?
Advice, comments, recommendation?
Air ratchet. Maybe the speed of it will get it out past the bad threads. I've done that in the past.
Then if the threads are stripped on the pan you could re-tap or helicoil it.
I never used a vacuum pump until I got my xct. But now I use it on my car too because the filter is on top so I can change the oil without getting under it.
And I have never used a torque wrench in any bike or car I have had but the last thing I want is a stripped out drain plug.
Personally I reckon dumping hot oil out via gravity is gonna bring any other crap that may be on the bottom of the sump with it.
Not that there should be any, but 50 years of changing oil I've managed so far, .....just luck maybe?
The day I can't trust myself to tighten a sump bung is the day I stop working on vehicles ...
Personally I reckon dumping hot oil out via gravity is gonna bring any other crap that may be on the bottom of the sump with it.
Not that there should be any, but 50 years of changing oil I've managed so far, .....just luck maybe?
The day I can't trust myself to tighten a sump bung is the day I stop working on vehicles ...
Nearly everyone who strips out the drain plug was using a torque wrench. That particular device should simply not be used on a drain plug as it's simply not needed and causes many more problems than it could ever prevent.
Also, forget the copper crush washer and use aluminum ones instead.
First, jam a screw driver in between the pan and the lip on the plug to apply some force while unscrewing it to see if it will bite and come out. It may mean some help from someone with another screw driver too. You have to get the remaining threads to bite or you'll be drilling it out.
Second - there are oversize plugs that you can use to cut some new threads. Alternatively, the time sert as mentioned above.
Thirdly, lots of people strip out the threads on oil pans. We mostly hear about it because it's one of the few things lots of people feel confident doing. The pans are thin, usually a cast soft metal and the mistake is going too tight. Your 15 lbs of torque is too high even though that is the spec but not many know why including some mechanics. Torque specs are Engineering figures based on mathematical characteristics of the metals and thread. They are also dry specs. Adding lubrication alters the specs and after draining the oil your threads would be wet. If you take a look at any lubricated torque chart you'll see the difference. Any coating effects the torque with some of the more advanced lubricants going 60% or more. Doesn't matter if it's oil, grease, wax or thread sealer. Since I was a kid my dad taught me that if it's got 30 weight oil on it reduce the torque by 30%. Might not be really accurate but it was easy to remember. Your 15 pound/feet should really have been closer to 10. Check it out for yourself.
In almost 50 yrs of driving and changing oil in cars trucks and motorcycles, for the first time in my life, I have appeared to strip my oil drain plug on my 2014 CCT. I can't believe this.
Right now it's just spinning. Will not tighten, will not come out. Hand tightened and was attempting to put 15 ft/lbs on it and it just keeps turning.
What type of metal is the oil pan on the 2014 CCT?
Advice, comments, recommendation?
I have a question. Where you the one who changed the oil last in your bike before doing it this time? If so, did you torque the plug and maybe use never seize on it so it does not "stick fast" next time you go to loosen it? If the bike is new to you and you did not change it the last time, than the last person who did oil change is who screwed it up for you.
I have changed the oil in this bike since 2014, every season/ 5K miles. Dealer did first change at 500 miles. Used a torque wrench every time. Never used never seize.
Been using teflon tape and the same washer on my 2015 Magnum getting changed 2 times a year with no problem! Some people tighten things like a gorilla...No self torque control....
Doesn't teflon tape act as another lubricant thereby making stripping out the drain plug even easier? Why continuously use a single use crush washer? When I read of people doing this. it never makes sense to me. Crush washers in this application simply aren't designed to be used multiple times.
Then again, snug is just that, snug. There's little to no force acting upon the drain plug to loosen itself.
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