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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
  1. Start bike
  2. Ride 10 feet check engine light comes on
  3. Blows low-beam bulb
  4. Check engine light turns off
  5. Come to a stop, use volt meter. Everything normal.
  6. Start moving again, check engine light comes on. No other bulbs blow from this!
  7. Come to a stop, use volt meter (WHILE engine light on). Everything's normal. 14.35
  8. Minute later, check engine light goes off.
  9. Start moving again, check engine light comes on. No other bulbs blow. High beams on, 4-ways on, slightly riding breaks.
  10. Don't stop, few minutes later check light goes out again. Does not come on again until after coming to a complete stop then moving again.
  • Battery 13.5V no load, key on
  • 14.45V when bike is running
  • Low beam socket, 14.45V idle, 50%, full throttle, and while check engine light is on.
  • No exposed wiring that I can find
  • Dealer is useless and clueless, no ideas but wants me to drop off the bike at @120/hr. He's clearly on crack.
  • New Volt Reg OTW but do not want to install it as it seems that's not the issue.
  • Absolutely no (obvious) reason(s) why the check engine light comes on.
  • Gone through two (2) different brands, four (4) different "types" of H7 bulbs, six (6) bulbs total ATM, all blow as soon as the check engine light pops on.
Now I'm understanding why Victory went out of business. I should of stayed Suzuki
 

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Was your bike in a flood?
 
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I had different symptoms 2 years ago... my VV blew fuses not bulbs. When wiring was static checked it rung out, when voltage was checked running it was fine, when temperatures exceeded 100 degrees I got voltage drop problems (per DVM).

As I said a static check of R/R, stator, and battery showed good (but, I changed the battery anyway 'cuz it's a good place to start). Replaced the R/R and haven't had a problem since (2 years ago mind ya)…

I'm sorry ya have no faith in yer dealer (yet, I feel the same way)….
 

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The check engine light might be coming on due to too high or low voltage. Bulb may blow from a voltage spike. Try the regulater as long as you have it anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I have, slow rolling the throttle from Idle to full throttle, the socket stays steady at 14.45V. Even while the check engine light is on, it's 14.45V

Which leads to the next question, if voltage is spiking, why isn't the other 15V high beam blowing, that is on at the exact same time? Exact same brand and quality (Sylvania Ultra).
 

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OP, you wrote that you slowly raised the rpm's. Raise the rpm's quickly like you're riding it or if you can, ride it with the multimeter connected to the battery. I think you are on the right track but just not testing it under the conditions the problems arise. Vibration, heat, etc may provide further clues. Open and clean all the connections for the regulator as well if you haven't done that already.
 

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Loose batt connections, bad ground, dirty connections will cause everything you describe.
Go back to basics: start at the battery & work out.
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
OP, you wrote that you slowly raised the rpm's. Raise the rpm's quickly like you're riding it or if you can, ride it with the multimeter connected to the battery. I think you are on the right track but just not testing it under the conditions the problems arise. Vibration, heat, etc may provide further clues. Open and clean all the connections for the regulator as well if you haven't done that already.
I was just thinking of that a few minutes ago if the check engine light is on longer than the issue is actually happening. I think i can take the head lamp lid off, hook up the clamps, and ride safely with the volt meter sitting in there.

But still, even if the volt spikes, why would it only blow that sole 15V 55W bulb when I have multiple on at the same time? That is what has me concerned because it doesn't seem to address that issue. I've checked the wires and cannot find any cracks or melts. Should I just be focusing on a new wiring harness?

Loose batt connections, bad ground, dirty connections will cause everything you describe.
Go back to basics: start at the battery & work out.
Already disassembled all the connectors cleaned them and put them back on (they we already clean to start with).
 

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I can't imagine a reason you'd have to connect the leads to the connectors in the headlight. Go directly to the battery if it's easier. As mentioned get a cheap (under $20) D'Arsenval (needle type) meter. You're experiencing a surge that may only last as long as the low beam filament and a digital meter won't catch that. Still leaning towards the regulator as it's a more common fault but we should try to at least prove it.

Your low beam light is getting power from a different route than the high. Also, the high may have a resistance that may allow it to take a momentary hit. As for the duration of the check engine light i could easily be that programming is watching other sensors and has a timeout feature.

Oh, and before you test any further disconnect any non-standard electrical features that were added to the bike.

Hopefully you find this soon. Over a period of time the rest of your bike won't like spikes either. That engine light indicates it effecting more than just the light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update: Thank you for the suggestion

OP ... if you can, ride it with the multimeter connected to the battery.
I was unable to do it to the battery, but I was able to get it attached to the leads in the headlight where the bulbs plug in.

  1. I was able to determine the low beam "line" spikes to 18V when riding. Side note, this is weird i HAVE to be moving to get this to happen, revving the throttle while NOT moving will NOT cause a spike in V.
  2. The high beam "line" sits at 14.35 V.
So...how can one line be spiking but the other line does not???????

Is it STILL the Volt Reg, or is it something wrong somewhere I cannot see in the wiring harness causing a short in said "line"?
 

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Something is breaking down either due to vibration or load. Too low would more than likely be the stator. Too low or too high can be the regulator.
If you want to play around with it, verify all the connections and do the proper testing for both pieces. When you're testing the regulator wiggle and tug at the wires and rap on the regulator with a screwdriver handle. There's a circuit board in there with components that don't really like vibration or heat and cracked lands can be quite common in hostile environments. You still may not be able to reproduce the fault thought. Polanus is suspected for putting maybe not quite the best available tech into their wiring.

The history of related problems on the forum certainly indicates the regulator is the first choice of something going into the toilet. Lots of threads here. Also look for the details on the upgraded alternative rather than going back to Polanus.

https://www.thevog.net/threads/nother-r-r-tale.75337/
 

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So...how can one line be spiking but the other line does not???????

Is it STILL the Volt Reg, or is it something wrong somewhere I cannot see in the wiring harness causing a short in said "line"?
...
A short doesn't cause an increase in voltage! A short is at it says... the shortest path to ground (most of the time) or line voltage or some other source. Typically a short (to ground or common in this case) cases a reduction/loss in voltage because of the load it creates on the line shorted.

What you have is an increase in energy. Yer stator will produce up to 35 VAC of voltage. The it goes through the R/R (rectifier regulator) which yer calling a voltage regulator. It sounds to me like one of yer legs, in the rectifier circuit, is shorting when loaded (like when ya rev it). There are 3 legs in the R/R. One of them is passing enough energy for yer headlight to act like a fuse and blow.
 
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