For those who lowered there aluminum framed bikes by drilling another hole in the lower shock bracket (or anyone else who may know), does that method lower the bike 1" for every 1/2" you move the hole like the length of the lowering arms do?
First, yes, lowering one side of the off set suspension link by 1/2" = a 1" drop.
EDITTED:
No idea why, but originally I understood this, " lowered there aluminum framed bikes by drilling another hole in the lower shock bracket" to mean he was going to drill his cast swing arm.
My mistake. Read past others who also misunderstood and you will see this was a decent mod, that seems to drop the bike1" without much money or effort.
I have wondered often, why is it that all victory riders that have said anything about the clearance and cornering ability of their vics, have all said they love the clearance of them. So why would any one want to lower that clearance and enjoyment. Or am I mistaken in that lowering these bikes only lower the seat height and does not affect the actual clearance of the bike from the ground.....
I lowered mine 1.5" when I added a DS tire that raised the rear a bit.
It allows me to back up the bike easier with my short legs, and the effect on handling is negligible. While I do have a few places where I scrape my floor boards, I am not one who wants to ride my bagger/touring bike like a Sport bike,,,,well, not often anyway,,,
There must be something to the lowered rear ergos, otherwise why does Victory sell so many 8Ball versions; XC, Vision. Vegas, and Hammer ? All of these are dropped 1" at the rear and the seat is dropped another inch.
I have not seen that method. I have seen people drill a hole in the other link. I believe HMD has a lowering link that is 2 or 3 inch witch is just there link with 2 holes. I had that link and removed it and had some one cut and weld my Victory link.
Well, "IF" I decide to lower it, it would be because I am very short legged, as from what I read on here, there are others, also. So you can wonder all you want. I am well aware of losing clearance, however I am not an aggressive driver.
I know the best option would be the seat, but others have said not comfy for long trips.
I am considering the adjustable link, that way I can
adjust as little as possible for my needs without buying
the wrong one. And that would be the same flaw with drilling another hole, you wouldn't know until too late.
So I guess my simple question was answered but not without some who want to cause conflict and throw in their 2 cents that has nothing to do with what I was asking. I will try not to ask such silly questions in the future.
Good day and ride safe!
Well, "IF" I decide to lower it, it would be because I am very short legged, as from what I read on here, there are others, also. So you can wonder all you want. I am well aware of losing clearance, however I am not an aggressive driver.
I know the best option would be the seat, but others have said not comfy for long trips.
I am considering the adjustable link, that way I can
adjust as little as possible for my needs without buying
the wrong one. And that would be the same flaw with drilling another hole, you wouldn't know until too late.
So I guess my simple question was answered but not without some who want to cause conflict and throw in their 2 cents that has nothing to do with what I was asking. I will try not to ask such silly questions in the future.
Good day and ride safe!
lay on the ground and look at your link. Do you think you could really lower it that much. Besides you're going to have to pull the link. So as long as you're going to pull the link buy a short one
All can say what they want but for me drilling the hole above stock worked perfectly....exact amount I needed to "flat foot" at stop AND I'm a very aggressive rider on curves...NO ill effect. Saved $$ so I didn't have to be "cheap" on stereo components everyone asks to do. MY case is closed tyvm
NOT going to argue.....I don't with wife either, not worth it....I like my results, which are different then stock and ride happily and money saved. My last comment on "lowering"
I put the Magnum front wheel on my XC a year ago and thought I'd try it as I've been wondering about taking out the small height change the wheel made.
Took it out for a 90 minute ride and love it. Balanced out the height change from the 21 inch wheel just right. Sits higher than a Magnum still which is perfect for me as the Magnum is too low for me.
I have another link I was going to shorten, but it looks like I won't be using it. I don't have a need for adjustable other than bringing back to stock height if I put the 18 wheel/fender on. In which case adjusting back is a matter of putting it on the lift, pulling the bolt and moving it to the stock hole. I won't even have to pull a side cover.
I put the Magnum front wheel on my XC a year ago and thought I'd try it as I've been wondering about taking out the small height change the wheel made.
Took it out for a 90 minute ride and love it. Balanced out the height change from the 21 inch wheel just right. Sits higher than a Magnum still which is perfect for me as the Magnum is too low for me.
I have another link I was going to shorten, but it looks like I won't be using it. I don't have a need for adjustable other than bringing back to stock height if I put the 18 wheel/fender on. In which case adjusting back is a matter of putting it on the lift, pulling the bolt and moving it to the stock hole. I won't even have to pull a side cover.
And to be honest, the extra few bucks for the shorter Link is unimportant to me.
The thing that makes this attractive, especially as a 1" drop, is time. I could put my bike on a lift, pull those bolts, and drill out that shock hole in under an hour.
My experience changing the link on the Vision was 4ish hours I think, and a PIA.
Plus, if money is a concern, 1" drop generally doesn't need a new KS. Or, on Visions, bag inserts.
All in all, a nice addition to the pool of knowledge. Even if I did originally think someone was going to drill the swing arm. My bad.
I still have my stock complete front wheel and fender, so with this way of changing the height I can go back to the 18" stock setup in about 40 minutes.
Including swapping the fender and wheel. Maybe less time. For the rear ride height it might take five minutes. Might.
If I was looking to go lower, I wouldn't do it his way.
Looks like you could go about 3/4 c to c, don't you think???
Can you just unbolt both sides, rock the strut into the center area, and drop it down enough to drill it without having to remove anything??? Kinda looks like a possibility!
If the bike is lowered 1", weather it be via new rod or by drilling the new hole, does the belt have to be adjusted?
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