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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone found any long 2 into 2 pipes with decent performance ?
I know the best performing pipes are 2 into 1 and/or the really short pipes but I just really like hte look of the bike with the long dual pipes.
When my husband got his new kp I took his old one. It has torque tubes, iav,timing gear, pcv and autotune on it with sharp curve fairly short pipes. It runs great and has decent performance but I would really like to switch out the pipes for something more along the lines of the V&H longshots.

Are there any similar pipes available with decent performance ?
My husband had previously tried the xbows but was unable to make them perform.
He tried removing the cats, the baffles, making his own baffles ... but ended up removing them because they just didnt perform.

Im not looking for crazy power but I dont want to lose significant power from what I have now with the sharp curve pipes.
Anyone found some long pipes that might be at least equal or close to equal to them.
 

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I think RPW 3” Slip Sticks would give you the look you’re after. They’re just mufflers to mount onto a stock header. Another option you might consider is the RPW Big Deal. A 2-1 performance exhaust but it has that long drag pipe look.
rpwusa.net
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info I had not seen most of these before.
So far looking into the true duals and possible the drag pipes.
The slip ons look good but I dont have the stock headers.


Also -- HC -- I have seen several posts where you refer to yourself racing your kp.
Are there any vids of your runs available to view online anywhere ?
 

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HC -- I have seen several posts where you refer to yourself racing your kp.
Are there any vids of your runs available to view online anywhere?
Now you've done it....
I haven't raced in a while but there are videos on my youtube channel. Early on the bike was black, later it got painted yellow. Here are the best ones.



 

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Cool, looks like a lot of fun. I would love to try it some day.
Whats your average good run ?
The best I did with the smaller 110" engine was 11.47 but now with the bigger engine (around a dozen more HP) it should do 11.20s at 118 mph if I do a good job riding it. I don't change anything on the bike, it is exactly like I ride it on the street. Ride it to the track, race it, and ride it home afterward. No burnout... I ride around the water box.

You should try it because it's a whole lot of fun.
 

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Cool, looks like a lot of fun. I would love to try it some day.
Whats your average good run ?
Some of the best times I've had. I kinda got hooked on it watching H-C's videos. That and one of my local dealers sponsores a fun day at a nearby track. I've made a lot of improvement but still not very good. The launch can be quite technical and your 60 ft time will make or break your run. My best times are in the high 11's, average time is probably about 12.0-12.1. Looking at my time slips a good racer could get my bike into the 11.7's, maybe even the 11.6's.

I too do very little prep. If my bike has any of the extras on it like windshield, passenger seat, or floorboards I take those off, which they quite often are anyway. Ride to the track, make a handful of passes, then hangout for a while and watch some others, ride home. Be warned though, it kinda ruins bike night at the bars. I've really not found the douchebaggery you see at bars at the track. Sport bike guy, Harley guy, guy with a trailer and 50 grand in his drag bike...they're all super cool to anyone. All willing to give tips and pointers, all there to have fun and see if they can go a little faster.

If you have a dragstrip anywhere close they should have a schedule online, just look for "test and tune" days. You show up and for like 20 bucks you get inspected then get in line as often as you like. Inspection will consist of a dude looking over your bike and verifying you have a full face helmet, boots, gloves, jeans and jacket. They require full leathers for faster bikes, but I can't remember how fast that is. They just look at mine and think, "yeah nah that's not a 9 second bike, tires look good, no leaks, he can go".
 

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Some of the best times I've had. I kinda got hooked on it watching H-C's videos. That and one of my local dealers sponsores a fun day at a nearby track. I've made a lot of improvement but still not very good. The launch can be quite technical and your 60 ft time will make or break your run. My best times are in the high 11's, average time is probably about 12.0-12.1. Looking at my time slips a good racer could get my bike into the 11.7's, maybe even the 11.6's.

I too do very little prep. If my bike has any of the extras on it like windshield, passenger seat, or floorboards I take those off, which they quite often are anyway. Ride to the track, make a handful of passes, then hangout for a while and watch some others, ride home. Be warned though, it kinda ruins bike night at the bars. I've really not found the douchebaggery you see at bars at the track. Sport bike guy, Harley guy, guy with a trailer and 50 grand in his drag bike...they're all super cool to anyone. All willing to give tips and pointers, all there to have fun and see if they can go a little faster.

If you have a dragstrip anywhere close they should have a schedule online, just look for "test and tune" days. You show up and for like 20 bucks you get inspected then get in line as often as you like. Inspection will consist of a dude looking over your bike and verifying you have a full face helmet, boots, gloves, jeans and jacket. They require full leathers for faster bikes, but I can't remember how fast that is. They just look at mine and think, "yeah nah that's not a 9 second bike, tires look good, no leaks, he can go".
If you go faster than 10.99 or 120 mph you need leathers, a lanyard kill switch, and maybe a racing license. Last time they let me go with a full face DOT... but they said from now on it has to be a Snell approved helmet.

What does the bike weigh with you on it in full gear?
 

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If you go faster than 10.99 or 120 mph you need leathers, a lanyard kill switch, and maybe a racing license. Last time they let me go with a full face DOT... but they said from now on it has to be a Snell approved helmet.

What does the bike weigh with you on it in full gear?
Bike roughly 650, me in street clothes 210, so with gear I'm going to guess total package is close to 900 lbs.

This of course is over the course of a few years now and I didn't get out at all last year or this year so memory... but it seems to me my first several passes were in the mid to high 12's. I thought I could race but I sucked at getting that hard Dunlap tire launched on the track's surface. With tips from others, and several more passes to work on my technique I dropped time down to 12.1-12.2 pretty quickly. Even managed to just barely break into the 11's a couple times but even with those passes other guys were beating my 60' so I'm sure there's more there. Since then I've got better rubber and next week get my new wheels and pulleys on. Not sure about the rest this year but looking forward to going back next year for sure.
 

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If you do a good job riding it, 11.60s consistently and 11.50s on a good pass, but it's gonna take a 1.70 60' time to go 11.50s.
I'm hopeful my changes will get me a better launch. Honestly, if I could get into the 11.7's I'd be thrilled. Probably have to see a doctor as my boner would last over four hours.
 

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I'm hopeful my changes will get me a better launch. Honestly, if I could get into the 11.7's I'd be thrilled. Probably have to see a doctor as my boner would last over four hours.
I was doing the dance of joy when I first ran into the 11s period, that's quick for a cruiser.
I had the hardest time getting below a 1.80 60' time... then one day, BAM! 1.71 -- still don't know what changed.

The most important thing is to have fun and not take it too seriously. The more I treat it like I have all the time in the world and the less I care about going quicker, the quicker I get.
 

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I was doing the dance of joy when I first ran into the 11s period, that's quick for a cruiser.
I had the hardest time getting below a 1.80 60' time... then one day, BAM! 1.71 -- still don't know what changed.

The most important thing is to have fun and not take it too seriously. The more I treat it like I have all the time in the world and the less I care about going quicker, the quicker I get.
I dig it. The first 3 or 4 trips to the track it was like this. Got some practice, learned some things, got a couple 11's...totally hooked. Life got in the way and I haven't been in awhile, but my last outing while still gobs of fun, was my worst performance. I don't know if the treatment they use on the track was new, too thick, too thin, or just me. I did about six or seven runs and the only time I could actually get down the track I had to feather the clutch so far I thought I might burn it up. Pop it at 3k and I spun like I was on ice. Pop it at 2500 and I bogged down in the tacky surface like I was in sand. I figured it just wasn't my day so instead of beating on my bike I just got a hot dog and a coke and watched a bunch of awesome racing.

I realize I'm not "ordinary", but I've always dug racing. Doesn't matter what, bicycles, lawn mowers, F1 cars...A couple stories in recent memory that got my geek on was watching NASCAR. I remember one race where Dale Jr. got caught with unapproved bolts used in his spoiler braces. Insignificant right? But the bolts that held the spoiler to the trunk were hollow. They had tiny little holes drilled through their center. The effect was at 180 mph air from the trunk would get sucked out the holes and that suction would lower his rear end. He did very well that race. Such a minute cheat, that tiny tiny fraction made a difference. Another was I think Carl Edwards. He had a battery box, they're located inside the car where a back seat would normally be, and the bolts holding the lid down we're spring loaded. So at rest everything looked normal. When air pressure was applied from underneath it would force the springs up, the lid would rise and allow air from underneath the car escape up into the passenger compartment and out the windows. At 180 mph is was enough to suck the car lower, Carl did very well that race.

I get geeked out with how minute details can make a difference in a racing environment. It's why I find spending ridiculous money on lighter wheels or brake rotors to be fun. It might shave a few hundredths off my 1/4!!!
 

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I get geeked out with how minute details can make a difference in a racing environment. It's why I find spending ridiculous money on lighter wheels or brake rotors to be fun. It might shave a few hundredths off my 1/4!!!
Weigh is so important, and the way you are going after un-sprung weight matters even more. Let me see here...
25 lbs off the bike is .11 in et reduction. I can tell if the bags are on or off... it makes a difference.

Imagine if we could drop the weight of these bikes to 600lbs... and if we weighed 200 lbs in our gear... it would be RIDICULOUS! You could pull off 11.1s with your current HP!
 

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Weigh is so important, and the way you are going after un-sprung weight matters even more. Let me see here...
25 lbs off the bike is .11 in et reduction. I can tell if the bags are on or off... it makes a difference.

Imagine if we could drop the weight of these bikes to 600lbs... and if we weighed 200 lbs in our gear... it would be RIDICULOUS! You could pull off 11.1s with your current HP!
I'm always amazed when I get home from a trip or have been doing some 2-up riding and then I take the passenger parts off. It rides like a different bike. Heck, just taking the windshield off makes it feel like a lighter bike. This was a huge part of why I decided to keep the Pin as my only bike. I should be getting the bike pretty close to 640 with these next changes. It's crossed my mind more than a few times that the Lindby crash bars are probably close to ten pounds right there, but I kinda like 'em. I do think about this way more than a grown man should...things like chop the rear subframe, cast a carbon fiber Conquest rear fender and cf Hammer front fender, ditch the Mustang seat and put the stocker back on, 600 might be achievable....would be a cool bike too...but not the bike I want, if I can have only one. This one has to keep all the creature comforts so all my efforts at weight reduction maintain all of them. Still fun to daydream about though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Very excited, found a drag strip pretty close by that allows bikes. Going to go spectate a few times before I jump in. Seems like it is going to get expensive but worth it. Have to pick up a snell rated helmet but otherwise I think I'm ready.
 
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