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Lloydz Timing Gear

8238 Views 14 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  JamesBond
Yo what's up Vog Fam, I hope & pray yall are riding out there safely.
I just wanted to seek some advice from yall regarding the Lloydz Timing Wheel. If you can see from my previous posts I already have upgraded my HB with exhaust & PCV with a custom intake etc. But when I take off in 1st gear there does seem to be a little lack of response in the lower rpm until I keep pulling the throttle then it picks up that powerful momentum. I just was curious of purchasing the timing wheel, but how to adjust the degrees to help with my problem etc. Thanks for any advice:)
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Yo what's up Vog Fam, I hope & pray yall are riding out there safely.
I just wanted to seek some advice from yall regarding the Lloydz Timing Wheel. If you can see from my previous posts I already have upgraded my HB with exhaust & PCV with a custom intake etc. But when I take off in 1st gear there does seem to be a little lack of response in the lower rpm until I keep pulling the throttle then it picks up that powerful momentum. I just was curious of purchasing the timing wheel, but how to adjust the degrees to help with my problem etc. Thanks for any advice:)
I would suggest starting at +4. That seems to be a fairly common setting. Some people go higher some people go lower; you have to listen for the pinging. If you get pinging back it off.
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Here are some very helpful videos...



Tho these may not be yer bike, all timing wheels go in and adjust the same.
I had the dealer install mine (kind 'nuf to send some business their way).
Unfortunately, they didn't tell me what they set my advance % to.
Luck mate...
You might need to have the PCV adjusted after installing the timing wheel. PCV probably has the timing advanced above 2500RPM already. The timing wheel will stack to two timing advances together, but will give you the advance you want in the lower (below 2500RPM) range.
Get it on the Dyno, Poseidon is correct is he assumption, the wheel brings timing in below 2500 and now the engine needs to have timing corrected from 2500 to your redline. You can go get a canned tune and it may or may not run properly but NOTHING will get your bike operating properly without a Dyno by a good operator.
I would suggest starting at +4. That seems to be a fairly common setting. Some people go higher some people go lower; you have to listen for the pinging. If you get pinging back it off.
Yo what's up T Bone,
I appreciate your response. What's the pinging noise you're talking about?
Also, when I was reading on thier (Lloydz) website, they mention something about the PCV's timing being possibly tuned once we get it dynoed to certain degrees already etc, so just trying to figure if my bike is already tuned to certain degress from the PCV, so when I purchase the timing wheel, they say to start b/w 2-4 degress advanced, b/c the bike might already tuned a certain degree from the PCV? Does thay make sense ?
The timing wheel adds timing through the entire rpm range. The PCV can only add timing above 2500rpm. If you have timing already set on the PCV you may need to reduce that timing by the setting you pick for the wheel.
Another-words if you add 4 degrees to the wheel then you should reduce the PCV's timing by 4 degrees if the timing on the PCV was set at 4 degrees or above.
Ok, yes I understand. Is it possible to find out what my PCV's degrees are set to, maybe going back to the mechanic I had tune it?
Yo what's up T Bone,
I appreciate your response. What's the pinging noise you're talking about?
Also, when I was reading on thier (Lloydz) website, they mention something about the PCV's timing being possibly tuned once we get it dynoed to certain degrees already etc, so just trying to figure if my bike is already tuned to certain degress from the PCV, so when I purchase the timing wheel, they say to start b/w 2-4 degress advanced, b/c the bike might already tuned a certain degree from the PCV? Does thay make sense ?
Hey Carlosa, the reason for a new tune is when you add the timing wheel you have now added timing to the motor in the idle to 2500 range, the PCV can only provide adjustments above 2500, so if you use the +4 on the wheel as suggested you have also added +4 to the higher range which can and likely will cause pinging/detonation.
So a competent tuner using a dyno will take advantage of what the timing wheel brings to the party and get your engine running so much smoother throughout the entire RPM range, will also run cooler as the A/F is perfected to go along with very nice power gains.
When my bike went to the Dyno Nels found an imbalance of 16% between the cylinders and this on a new bike with less than 1000 miles, so do not trust a factory new bike to be correct out of the box.
Getting your bike on a Dyno will bring harmony to your engine and it will pay you back with great power and a willingness to run like you can't believe.
BTY I use to live in Poway back in the day, before there was a Poway lake.
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Thanks fellas for the input, I truly appreciate the support & help. God bless. I have to find nd another shop to help me with a fresh tune up after I purchase the timing wheel lol. I found a couple of places here local.
Was also curious about this as well. Not so much the tune, but pinging. When you say pinging, do you literally mean a loud pinging sound? I dont hear any "pinging" (loud ground pounders dont help either) but i feel something a little different. i noticed after i had my timing wheel, cams, PCV, torque tubes, and exhaust installed ive been feeling bumping/knocking in my footpegs at lower (850-900) and sometimes higher rpms. its not the normal smooth vibration feeling, rather some bumps as if someone took a hammer and just tapped the peg. it comes and goes, not very uniformed but enough for me to notice. would that be normal with the upgrades? or should i be thinking of adjusting my timing? is that what engine knock is? sorry for so many q's just havent experienced this before
I'm going on a 3800 mile trip in a week and a half so I ordered a Lloydz timing gear. I have the Rajun Cajun pipes, high flow air cleaner, and a Wiseco FMC090 Fuel controller (same as Dobrek ELK). Bike runs great but I've heard the timing gear adds a great deal.
So from what I read it looks like 4+ is the place to start. I'm not sure how much riding I'll get in before the trip to test it, and I don't want to pull the cover out on the road to readjust. So to be safe should I go 3+?
@bobzinger you should be ok @+4 and use at least 89 octane fuel, If you hear any pinging when you twist it hard go to premium fuel.....:FIREdevil:
Thanks... I use 91 all the time.
@bobzinger I have mine set at 5+ and it runs great! When I ran it @6+ man it ran like a hot rod but vibrated more at 80mph so I set it a 5 and all is good...:FIREdevil:
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