[Smokier104]

Greetings @Raptor727

My apologies if I posted this to you already in a different thread. There are a lot of knowledgeable members here, however, @NOEMTZ is one of the few in the BUSINESS of making Vic owners happy. (And he does that well).

Congratulations on your new-to-you Victory!

Below is some unsolicited and probably unwanted information.
Check and inspect the rubber parts for your fuel system. (Connections to tank specifically; and rubber-tipped, black plastic to air box (frame).)
Check and tighten your battery cables every oil change. They do work loose, and loose battery cables cause all sorts of weird behavior.
Check your clutch play when the bike is cold and again when warm. The fully engaged and disengaged zones are small. Adjust when cold.
Here is a link to the IAC reset procedure: Check Engine light/IAC problem
Here is a link to the TPS reset procedure: TPS reset procedure
The WIX 51356XP oil filter is probably the most used filter for our bikes. Trusted places like TheVicShop use this filter.
Oil Drain Plug Washers: 12mm ID x 19mm OD x 1.3mm thick - copper crush washers, you can get a bag of 25 from NAPA for $6.
Vacuum out the airbox when checking/cleaning the air filter.
Be advised that the fuel nipple on the bottom of the tank is plastic. When unclipping the fuel line from the tank, do not torque side to side to wiggle loose. Plastic breaks...
NGK DCPR6E are the OEM plugs and have proven themselves to be the most reliable.
Lyndall brakes are made in the US and are far better performers than other brands: All
The drive belt should easily last 80k miles or more. (154T, 28MM #3211107) Replacement can be found here: Replacement belt for Victory Motorcycles-BDL SPC-154-118
The fuel pump and voltage regulator can be had from aftermarket suppliers.
OEM fuel filters are hard to find. QFS Fuel Pump Strainer Only (QTY 3) Fits: Victory Cross Country / Touring 2013-2023 These are aftermarkets that can be made to work. (HFP-S20-3 (quantum) + 1” of 15/32 fuel line)
Check to see if there are any uncompleted recalls: https://atv.polaris.com/en-us/vin-search/ or Recalls | NHTSA.
A lot of people keep a spare 40 AMP circuit breaker. "40amp Napa Circuit Breaker, #782-3041 or #782-3116" (The difference is the mount bracket)
Lloyd’z Air Filter for Cross bikes is a common upgrade: https://lloydz.com/product/intake-and-fuel-control/lloydz-xcxr-high-flow-air-filter/
Rylan (VicBuilder) at TheVicShop has maps and excellent advice if your bike has a PCV fuel controller. An add-on Fuel Controller will most likely be behind the left side (shifter side) cover. TVS also has a large collection of YouTube videos on servicing VICs.
The Lloyd’s timing wheel is a very popular upgrade. Check the gasket around the right-side engine case cover. A factory gasket is nearly flush with the case and cover. The Lloyd’z gasket is thicker, firmer, and sticks up a bit, you can feel it.
Noe Martinez (noemtz) will perform remote MAXIMUS tunes. The MAXIMUS tune can adjust things that a PCV cannot. And without leaving an extra dangling bit on the side of your ride! Note: The Lloyd’z timing wheel is not needed with a Maximus tune. The timing wheel is very beneficial with PCV or by itself.
CrossCountryLA is a wizard with Victory Exhaust systems, known as Ragin Cajun’s.
Cross bikes Side Cover Grommets: NAPA part# NW784633
Brass brake and shifter lever bushings: $12 https://www.amazon.com/CICMOD-Bushi...fix=victory+brass+bushing,aps,119&sr=8-3&th=1
Clean and lube the clutch cable ends and the pin in the clutch perch at every oil change. Just the ends, the cable is lined don't put any lube down it.
Download the manuals from: https://www.mediafire.com/folder/aoq581k2ab25z/Victory+Manuals
With proper maintenance these machines just keep going.

Ride safe,
Smokier

 

[MagVic CCT]

The Nomad boys used to use Seafoam to "flush out" engine between oil changes, but only added about 2 ounces and ran for usually not more than 50 miles, then drained and changed oil. I've done this and never had any clutch issues. Not sure just how much different the Vic clutches are compared to the old Nomad ones.

 

[lou8700]

Is that safe? Sorry for my ignorance here I just don't want a chance of causing any damage. I was going to try a little a t.f. before an oil change but haven't heard of seafoam being used.

I've had two friends that had a bad lifter noise in and both times this took care of it. Seafoam does say on the can it made to work with gas or oil in the crankcase.

 

[Raptor727]

So found this today while checking timing pretty sure that rear cylinder timing chain isn't suppose to flop front is tight rear is loose 1/2" or better, should have notice this first time but was in a rush guess I need to slow down

 

[lou8700]

So found this today

You might be on to something. I've heard a few people on here replaced the chain tensioner's with later versions that were larger. @slickvic might know more about it. Come to think of it he had a noise somewhat similar to yours.

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

@lou8700, is it the hydraulic plunger/tensioner under the big nut/cover on the backside of the cylinder or the internal rubbing block that needs to be looked at?

 

[lou8700]

@lou8700, is it the hydraulic plunger/tensioner under the big nut/cover on the backside of the cylinder or the internal rubbing block that needs to be looked at?

The plunger. Later ones are larger and will retrofit. Not sure what year they were updated. There's also a thread on here somewhere of someone who replaced his chains because of a noise. That bike had high mileage though.

 

[Raptor727]

So stupid question I'm sure but here it goes, rear of chain where the tensioner is tight but the front side of same chain is loose so would that be tensioner related or lifter/top end???

 

[Raptor727]

So removed tensioner it plunges has about a 1/4" or little more of free play but when pushing plunger to bottom oil comes out around plunger instead of oil supply holes so I'm assuming it's plugged or bad

 

[slickvic]

Pull the plunger and test it. Do not pull both at the same time. The rear is likely only bad. Mine was but I got lucky and found some 17 plungers on EBay.
Now I have new gears and chains with the new plungers. New rings and all new gaskets. Bike runs like a top. Has an interesting internal mechanical noise now that sounds like a symphony of parts all working together. Hard to describe but not a singled out noise but an Orchestra of different noises. I like it and the bike performs better than it ever has. Pulls with authority now and my gas mileage increased as well….. thanks to Noe Martinez and the new Maximus tune.

One thing about the 15, 16, 17 motors …. They have a whine that sounds similar to a gear driven timing setup on a v8. It’s actually the newer model stators that come on these bikes and it drowns out the valve train noises these bikes known for. My buddy’s 15x1 has it and my 16x1 has it. I like that too.

 

[slickvic]

There is a YouTube video or 2 on these tensioners. The inner sleeve that the axial plunger part rides in has more end play that the front. Remember to only test one at a time. Put the other back in before removing the opposing plunger.

 

[Raptor727]

So what's this test involve? I've seen one or two videos on them but doesn't specify how to test. Should I soak them in atf?

 

[slickvic]

So what's this test involve? I've seen one or two videos on them but doesn't specify how to test. Should I soak them in atf?

That’s the thing. Regarding my 2011 …The rear on mine had imo too much slop compared to the front. I wasn’t sure if it was supposed to be that way because all I’ve seen and heard was the rear ones had the slop when questioned for a repair. The front one gets a rubber isolator and rear does not. Being confused …..What answered the question in my mind was when I received the 2017 pieces and they were the same front and rear regarding endplay. Entirely different pieces compared to the 2011 bikes I decided to call Noe Martinez and Lloyd’z with questions regarding this. The new ones were re designed likely because they simply come from a different manufacturer. Since they were the same sans the rubber isolator and marking of “R” on the bolt head ( for the rear) I figured my old rear one was in fact bad. So basically both said try it ….shouldn’t matter that they are different as the motor specs are the same thru out the years. In they went and viola the motor was quieter.

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

So the 15-17 cam chain plungers and stators are upgrades that fit the older 106” motors. Fantastic information @slickvic, thank you sir!