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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just installed LED turn signals on the front and rear of my 2017 Gunner. I also installed a Custom Dynamics load equalizer that is made for this make, model, and year. I followed the instructions for installing the LE to a T. It's a very straightforward install and hard to get wrong. However, there are two problems I'm seeing after the installation.
  • The left turn signal flashes normally but when I engage the right turn signal, both sides hyper-flash
  • Both turn indicators on my gauge are constantly on when the turn signals are off
If anyone knows how this is even possible please help as I feel defeated with all the troubleshooting I've done. I can list the troubleshooting I've done so far if needed.

Thanks
 

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You may need two load equalizers. One for each side. Vaguely recall that being brought up before somewhere here. Or I just made it up. :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I busted out my trusty multimeter last night and figured out the problem. The instructions for the load equalizer show to splice the two hot wires to the blue and blue/red wires, and the ground to the black wire of the harness. BUT, the black on my harness is not a ground, said my multimeter. So I said, I'm gonna hook up the ground directly to the battery. And then life was all good :headbang:
 

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I just installed LED turn signals on the front and rear of my 2017 Gunner. I also installed a Custom Dynamics load equalizer that is made for this make, model, and year. I followed the instructions for installing the LE to a T. It's a very straightforward install and hard to get wrong. However, there are two problems I'm seeing after the installation.
  • The left turn signal flashes normally but when I engage the right turn signal, both sides hyper-flash
  • Both turn indicators on my gauge are constantly on when the turn signals are off
If anyone knows how this is even possible please help as I feel defeated with all the troubleshooting I've done. I can list the troubleshooting I've done so far if needed.

Thanks
What does a qualified Auto Electrician say?
 

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Not one but you have a short or a bad connection on the LE. The cluster light is a giveaway that there's current leakage into the cluster. Assuming you spliced the LE single wire to the ground circuit and the other 2 to the +12v lines on each signal. A couple diodes may solve the issue. Try un-splicing the right, see if it affects anything then swap and just the left.

My assumption is the LE has 2 5 or10w ceramic resistors in parallel with one side tied together with a single wire connection and 2 additional on the other side, 1 from each resistor.

I've not had any luck with the plug and play units so just made my own. 2 5w 10 or 20 ohm resistors and a couple 12v diodes should do the trick.
 
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