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LED SIGNALS - Learn From My Troubles

2403 9
Good Evening all,

Short Version: install the load equalizer first to avoid any confusion. Not enough resistance in the circuit will cause things that aren't described in service manual.

Long Version: This week is closing alot better than it started for me. So from the start my Stock signals on my Highball were looking rough/falling apart and needed replacing and had plenty of experience with soldiering/installing bike signals so was more than ready to throw some LED signals on the lady. I orginally bought some cheap signals as place holder until I found what signals I really wanted. Once I swapped them out i knew to expect hyper flash and that's exactly what they did. Everything was functioning exactly as planned and expected. At this point I was waiting for my final signals and load equalizer for shipment. Rode around with those for about 2 weeks until I bought what I wanted. Upon receipt of what i wanted, i installed the rear ones first. After install and wiring everything up the same as before I went to test them and BUZZZZZZZZZ. The flasher module was yelling at me. I started poking with a multimeter checking for shorts and pinched wires. The signal would illuminate and only stay on. Double checked continuity, went back to old signals, prayed to Buddha, then I called it quits for that night. The next day went to Victory and bought brand new flasher Module and relay. Once I got home tested the relay and it tested perfect. Scoured the service manual for diagnostics for this issue, studied forum posts, looked at service manual again with no dice. The service tech at victory and the service manual said there was no check for the flasher module so swapped that out and same thing. So after tracing all my wires looking for shorts/pinched wires to no avail I got the screw its. Decided to install everything and sacrifice a baby to the electrical demons. Decided to solder the signals, load equalizer and BAM the signals start to function properly. After triple checking voltage outputs and triple checking where I tied the load equalizer up I am satisfied.

Bonus Observation: Fuel Pump does not prime if Flasher Module is not hooked up. Really . . . . REALLY Victory?!?!?! Have a dead bike over a effing flasher module. Positive result out of this is I have an extra module and relay for the 'oh crap' scenario on the road.
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The flasher relay is multipurpose, it's used as a pass-through for the coil relay if I remember and also the neutral and clutch switches. On a lot of vehicles the flasher relay is just a relay for flashers, not so in this case. Reason could be multi-faceted: It was already developed for other Polaris products and they decided not to reinvent the wheel; and/or the bike uses CANbus for system signals (not a big fan overall). I too have a spare just in case.

Also, adding a load balancer/load resistor/load equalizer actually reduces the overall resistance in the circuit as you are putting it in parallel with the lights reducing slightly the amount of current in the LEDs while maintaining the same voltage (~12.4Vdc). But, to make this more confusing, the reason for hyperflash is the module senses the circuit total current is higher than it should be and assumes a lamp is burned out because one or more of the lamps is not drawing power reducing the overall current draw. So, in essence you are "adding" additional load to the circuit to mimic the higher current draw of the incandescent lamps, in this case a load that does not emit light but instead emits heat. It's counter-intuitive but it works if you do the math. That's why the engineers make the big bucks.

EDIT: It's also important to note that in some aftermarket LED lights, they have built in load-balancing to combat the hyperflash. So by adding the resistor into the circuit beforehand, there's the possibility that the lights won't flash at all and just come on and stay on or flash once then turn off. It is probably best to inquire from the manufacturer if the lights are intended to replace LEDs or replace standard bulbs so you can determine which path to take.

Cool that you got it all figured out. Electrical gremlins are the hardest to track down in complicated systems like these bikes.
 

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Looks good, took me a minute to find the front bullets. A plastic trim removal tool and the gel type goo gone can clean that sticky residue off below the plate. Also seen others that have cut it off below the plate and even near the top having the plate attached by 2 screws on top only and hanging freely.

I have to be honest, I've never been a fan of having the signals so close together. I think it looks good though, just not my style.

Sharp bike, I like the red rims. Have you considered a red seat?
 

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Not sure about the buzzing but the front and rear signals are tied together so you'd need 1 resistor per side. Depending on the load equalizer style, values and brand it could be a single unit made to connect to both sides or 2 units, one for each side. Brand probably isn't so important but I ended up making my own because the one I bought (said it fits victory steel frames) just caused the lights to flash once then stay on or off.

What's the issue you're having and what have you modified? Also what year is the bike? It might be easier and less stressful to just swap to the xc flasher module (depending on the model year you have).
 
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