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The flasher relay is multipurpose, it's used as a pass-through for the coil relay if I remember and also the neutral and clutch switches. On a lot of vehicles the flasher relay is just a relay for flashers, not so in this case. Reason could be multi-faceted: It was already developed for other Polaris products and they decided not to reinvent the wheel; and/or the bike uses CANbus for system signals (not a big fan overall). I too have a spare just in case.
Also, adding a load balancer/load resistor/load equalizer actually reduces the overall resistance in the circuit as you are putting it in parallel with the lights reducing slightly the amount of current in the LEDs while maintaining the same voltage (~12.4Vdc). But, to make this more confusing, the reason for hyperflash is the module senses the circuit total current is higher than it should be and assumes a lamp is burned out because one or more of the lamps is not drawing power reducing the overall current draw. So, in essence you are "adding" additional load to the circuit to mimic the higher current draw of the incandescent lamps, in this case a load that does not emit light but instead emits heat. It's counter-intuitive but it works if you do the math. That's why the engineers make the big bucks.
EDIT: It's also important to note that in some aftermarket LED lights, they have built in load-balancing to combat the hyperflash. So by adding the resistor into the circuit beforehand, there's the possibility that the lights won't flash at all and just come on and stay on or flash once then turn off. It is probably best to inquire from the manufacturer if the lights are intended to replace LEDs or replace standard bulbs so you can determine which path to take.
Cool that you got it all figured out. Electrical gremlins are the hardest to track down in complicated systems like these bikes.
Also, adding a load balancer/load resistor/load equalizer actually reduces the overall resistance in the circuit as you are putting it in parallel with the lights reducing slightly the amount of current in the LEDs while maintaining the same voltage (~12.4Vdc). But, to make this more confusing, the reason for hyperflash is the module senses the circuit total current is higher than it should be and assumes a lamp is burned out because one or more of the lamps is not drawing power reducing the overall current draw. So, in essence you are "adding" additional load to the circuit to mimic the higher current draw of the incandescent lamps, in this case a load that does not emit light but instead emits heat. It's counter-intuitive but it works if you do the math. That's why the engineers make the big bucks.
EDIT: It's also important to note that in some aftermarket LED lights, they have built in load-balancing to combat the hyperflash. So by adding the resistor into the circuit beforehand, there's the possibility that the lights won't flash at all and just come on and stay on or flash once then turn off. It is probably best to inquire from the manufacturer if the lights are intended to replace LEDs or replace standard bulbs so you can determine which path to take.
Cool that you got it all figured out. Electrical gremlins are the hardest to track down in complicated systems like these bikes.