[Beerski]

Noticed a couple times when I would twist it hard in a higher gear, at higher rpms the bike would continue to rev but not pull. I’m assuming this is some clutch slippage? Never in a lower gear (1-3)

I know the oil should be changed, since I believe it sat for awhile, I’m doing that this weekend with Vic oil (just got the bike a couple days ago). Should I be worried about the clutch life (only 2k miles on the motor)?

I’m also going to be checking the clutch free play after doing some research into this thing

 

[Beerski]

I guess I’m hoping to be talked off a ledge since I’ve seen some guys say if it ever slips at all, it’s basically downhill from here... bike is brand new to me so

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

Does the bike have one of those easy clutch arms on it? If so, remove it, destroy it, dispose of it any way you like and use only the oem arm. Standing o the left side of the bike looking towards the front, the arm on the top of the transmission should be in the 11 o’clock position. When you pull in on the clutch lever, that arm goes to the 12 o’clock position. The clutch free play can only be done with the bike overnight ‘cold’. Err on the loose side and you should be fine.

 

[Beerski]

It doesn't, but the prev

Does the bike have one of those easy clutch arms on it? If so, remove it, destroy it, dispose of it any way you like and use only the oem arm. Standing o the left side of the bike looking towards the front, the arm on the top of the transmission should be in the 11 o'clock position. When you pull in on the clutch lever, that arm goes to the 12 o'clock position. The clutch free play can only be done with the bike overnight 'cold'. Err on the loose side and you should be fine.

It doesn't, but the previous owner had a new one in a bag he gave me in case I wanted one haha. I'll make sure and adjust the clutch lever accordingly, and grease everything as well. Hopefully the clutch itself is fine...kinda worries me-seems to still work fine

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

It would be very odd to have a clutch ruined in only 2K miles. Adjust the clutch free play first, then change the oil after getting it warmed up. Do not use a torque wrench on the drain plug. Like the oil filter, it needs to be snug, not tight. I’m thinking that after the oil change and a few miles it will be fine.

 

[JudgeRedd]

it's too tight. Loosen the cable. This is one "spec" in the manual that you do NOT want to abide by.

Where you end up adjusting it (i.e. how much slack in the cable) varies from bike to bike- but here's the gist of it:

1. Warm up the bike to operating temp.
2. Start by loosening the tension with a 1/4 turn.
3. Ride it. In the higher gears- pull in the clutch and take note. If it begins to disengage almost immediately with barely any lever pull- still too tight. Repeat.

• Basically- when warm, it should not disengage as described above until lever is around a 1/3 or so pulled in.
• Also- (just before you move) clutch in. the rpm's should not drop off when put into gear.
• Going forward- let bike warm up before riding. The temp affects the ultimate "adjustment" It will behave differently when cold.

Look don't rely solely on this, but if it helps ease your mind:

My Judge has all the LLoydz goodies on it- including Torque Tubes. She is laying down 120+ lbs of torque at the rear wheel. If you walked up to my cold bike right now and jiggled the clutch cable back and forth at the elbow - you would see about a 1/2 inch of total deflection. Ignore the manual- it's complete nonsense in this regard. (and many other ways too)

 

[bikendad]

Guaranteed your cable doesn't have enough free-play. The manual calls for like 1-1.5mm over-night cold. I will tell you that's not near enough. 2-3mm is more like it.

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

Yes, overnight cold, do not adjust the clutch lever free play with a warm engine.

 

[JudgeRedd]

Again- ignore the manual. This "do it cold" advice is dead wrong. Is your bike cold when you are operating the clutch? No.

 

[mrmegadeth]

Not to start "that topic" but did you recently change to a new oil type; e.g. brand, weight, spec?

 

[Beerski]

Not to start "that topic" but did you recently change to a new oil type; e.g. brand, weight, spec?

nope. Has a "fresh" oil change from the previous owner, but the bike hadn't been ridden in awhile. Not sure what he used. I'm changing it with Vic oil tomorrow

 

[Beerski]

Guaranteed your cable doesn't have enough free-play. The manual calls for like 1-1.5mm over-night cold. I will tell you that's not near enough. 2-3mm is more like it.

yeah, my lever has very little, if any it in right now. Will be adjusting promptly, however I'm not sure if I'm supposed to be doing that on a warm or stone cold engine

 

[Beerski]

it's too tight. Loosen the cable. This is one "spec" in the manual that you do NOT want to abide by.

Where you end up adjusting it (i.e. how much slack in the cable) varies from bike to bike- but here's the gist of it:

1. Warm up the bike to operating temp.
2. Start by loosening the tension with a 1/4 turn.
3. Ride it. In the higher gears- pull in the clutch and take note. If it begins to disengage almost immediately with barely any lever pull- still too tight. Repeat.

• Basically- when warm, it should not disengage as described above until lever is around a 1/3 or so pulled in.
• Also- (just before you move) clutch in. the rpm's should not drop off when put into gear.
• Going forward- let bike warm up before riding. The temp affects the ultimate "adjustment" It will behave differently when cold.

Look don't rely solely on this, but if it helps ease your mind:

My Judge has all the LLoydz goodies on it- including Torque Tubes. She is laying down 120+ lbs of torque at the rear wheel. If you walked up to my cold bike right now and jiggled the clutch cable back and forth at the elbow - you would see about a 1/2 inch of total deflection. Ignore the manual- it's complete nonsense in this regard. (and many other ways too)

Will do. So it's ok to adjust with a warm engine? Seems like I've seen a lot of people say you should only do it on a stone cold one... personally I always let my bike warm up for a few mins before riding if it's dead cold, and around a minute or less if it's already been ridden recently

 

[Beerski]

Yes, overnight cold, do not adjust the clutch lever free play with a warm engine.

whats the logic for only adjusting with a cold engine? Genuinely curious...I've scene advise go both ways

 

[JudgeRedd]

There is none. Only that it's in the manual. It's garbage. I would bet that your clutch cable IS adjusted correctly per manual specs right now- and the higher gear slipping is the result.

This exact thing was happening to me. I believed the same nonsense like many others. Then one day I got some good advice from a real expert. @Half_Crazy And like I was saying- even with the extra power I have on board- no more slipping. Just gotta warm it up.

 

[bikendad]

whats the logic for only adjusting with a cold engine? Genuinely curious...I've scene advise go both ways

It can be done either way BUT you still need there to be a little slack when it's hot. The manual recommends doing it cold BUT they call for too little slack and when it gets hot there's no slack left! You can do it cold, set it at 2-3mm and when it's hot see if there's a little slack left, if not loosen it a bit more. OR you can adjust it hot but don't leave as much slack. The amount of slack the manual calls for is actually what it should be HOT.
You'll learn to know if it's right by if it slips when hammering it in the higher gears and rpm's and how it shifts.

 

[Chattanooga_Mark]

bikendad is of course 100% correct. You can adjust it either way. In reality, err on the loose side of the spec. This video does a great job of showing how to properly adjust, clean and lubricate your clutch cable.

 

[Beerski]

Great! That's the one I've been looking at

bikendad is of course 100% correct. You can adjust it either way. In reality, err on the loose side of the spec. This video does a great job of showing how to properly adjust, clean and lubricate your clutch.

 

[Beerski]

Wow, clutch cable free-play was absolutely the culprit. Bike feels like it finally let out a sneeze haha. Pulls hard all the way to redline in every gear

Have about as much wiggle in the clutch lever as the Arizona police gentleman. Went ahead and cleaned/lubricated all the parts, too

Will definitely be noting this as a routine check

Not fun to get a 14mm wrench on the adjustment nut though...had to use a long needle nose to hold it and turn the adjustment tumbler onto it to tighten. Will probably have to free the whole cable from its mount next time

 

[LEVON106]

Noticed a couple times when I would twist it hard in a higher gear, at higher rpms the bike would continue to rev but not pull. I'm assuming this is some clutch slippage? Never in a lower gear (1-3)

I know the oil should be changed, since I believe it sat for awhile, I'm doing that this weekend with Vic oil (just got the bike a couple days ago). Should I be worried about the clutch life (only 2k miles on the motor)?

I'm also going to be checking the clutch free play after doing some research into this thing

I had not experienced any slippage but it was probably in my near future as I noticed little to no freeplay in the cable as well. As the other guys have said, just adjust it when cold and you'll be fine.