Is this clutch slippage? | Victory Motorcycles: Motorcycle Forums

Is this clutch slippage?

Discussion in 'Victory Vegas' started by Beerski, Jun 11, 2020.

  1. Beerski

    Beerski New Member

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    Noticed a couple times when I would twist it hard in a higher gear, at higher rpms the bike would continue to rev but not pull. I’m assuming this is some clutch slippage? Never in a lower gear (1-3)

    I know the oil should be changed, since I believe it sat for awhile, I’m doing that this weekend with Vic oil (just got the bike a couple days ago). Should I be worried about the clutch life (only 2k miles on the motor)?

    I’m also going to be checking the clutch free play after doing some research into this thing
     
  2. Beerski

    Beerski New Member

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    I guess I’m hoping to be talked off a ledge since I’ve seen some guys say if it ever slips at all, it’s basically downhill from here... bike is brand new to me so
     
  3. Chattanooga_Mark

    Chattanooga_Mark Well-Known Member

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    Does the bike have one of those easy clutch arms on it? If so, remove it, destroy it, dispose of it any way you like and use only the oem arm. Standing o the left side of the bike looking towards the front, the arm on the top of the transmission should be in the 11 o’clock position. When you pull in on the clutch lever, that arm goes to the 12 o’clock position. The clutch free play can only be done with the bike overnight ‘cold’. Err on the loose side and you should be fine.
     
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  4. Beerski

    Beerski New Member

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    It doesn’t, but the prev
    It doesn’t, but the previous owner had a new one in a bag he gave me in case I wanted one haha. I’ll make sure and adjust the clutch lever accordingly, and grease everything as well. Hopefully the clutch itself is fine...kinda worries me—seems to still work fine
     
  5. Chattanooga_Mark

    Chattanooga_Mark Well-Known Member

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    It would be very odd to have a clutch ruined in only 2K miles. Adjust the clutch free play first, then change the oil after getting it warmed up. Do not use a torque wrench on the drain plug. Like the oil filter, it needs to be snug, not tight. I’m thinking that after the oil change and a few miles it will be fine.
     
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  6. JudgeRedd

    JudgeRedd Well-Known Member

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    it's too tight. Loosen the cable. This is one "spec" in the manual that you do NOT want to abide by.

    Where you end up adjusting it (i.e. how much slack in the cable) varies from bike to bike- but here's the gist of it:

    1. Warm up the bike to operating temp.
    2. Start by loosening the tension with a 1/4 turn.
    3. Ride it. In the higher gears- pull in the clutch and take note. If it begins to disengage almost immediately with barely any lever pull- still too tight. Repeat.

    • Basically- when warm, it should not disengage as described above until lever is around a 1/3 or so pulled in.
    • Also- (just before you move) clutch in. the rpm's should not drop off when put into gear.
    • Going forward- let bike warm up before riding. The temp affects the ultimate "adjustment" It will behave differently when cold.
    Look don't rely solely on this, but if it helps ease your mind:

    My Judge has all the LLoydz goodies on it- including Torque Tubes. She is laying down 120+ lbs of torque at the rear wheel. If you walked up to my cold bike right now and jiggled the clutch cable back and forth at the elbow - you would see about a 1/2 inch of total deflection. Ignore the manual- it's complete nonsense in this regard. (and many other ways too)
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2020
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  7. bikendad

    bikendad Well-Known Member

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    Guaranteed your cable doesn't have enough free-play. The manual calls for like 1-1.5mm over-night cold. I will tell you that's not near enough. 2-3mm is more like it.
     
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  8. Chattanooga_Mark

    Chattanooga_Mark Well-Known Member

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    Yes, overnight cold, do not adjust the clutch lever free play with a warm engine.
     
  9. JudgeRedd

    JudgeRedd Well-Known Member

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    Again- ignore the manual. This "do it cold" advice is dead wrong. Is your bike cold when you are operating the clutch? No.
     
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  10. mrmegadeth

    mrmegadeth Active Member

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    Not to start "that topic" but did you recently change to a new oil type; e.g. brand, weight, spec?
     
  11. Beerski

    Beerski New Member

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    nope. Has a “fresh” oil change from the previous owner, but the bike hadn’t been ridden in awhile. Not sure what he used. I’m changing it with Vic oil tomorrow
     
  12. Beerski

    Beerski New Member

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    yeah, my lever has very little, if any it in right now. Will be adjusting promptly, however I’m not sure if I’m supposed to be doing that on a warm or stone cold engine
     
  13. Beerski

    Beerski New Member

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    Will do. So it’s ok to adjust with a warm engine? Seems like I’ve seen a lot of people say you should only do it on a stone cold one... personally I always let my bike warm up for a few mins before riding if it’s dead cold, and around a minute or less if it’s already been ridden recently
     
  14. Beerski

    Beerski New Member

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    whats the logic for only adjusting with a cold engine? Genuinely curious...I’ve scene advise go both ways
     
  15. JudgeRedd

    JudgeRedd Well-Known Member

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    There is none. Only that it's in the manual. It's garbage. I would bet that your clutch cable IS adjusted correctly per manual specs right now- and the higher gear slipping is the result.

    This exact thing was happening to me. I believed the same nonsense like many others. Then one day I got some good advice from a real expert. @Half_Crazy And like I was saying- even with the extra power I have on board- no more slipping. Just gotta warm it up.
     

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