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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been battling this fuel pressure issue for awhile now. Posted about it before but now this feels different enough to warrant a new thread.

Bike sat for 2 years with ethanol in the tank. Bike is running lean which was verified by the ash colored plugs, and the mid range miss/sputter/stalling during down shift. Fuel pressure registered at around 44-46psi Cleaned and resealed the tank, and decided to rehab the pump myself based on cost. Replaced with a pump from quantum and also used their regulator. Made the mistake of not bench testing before I put it back together, because once it was back together pressure was now at 45psi. Took the pump back out today and did a bench test to see if there were any leaks on the assembly. At 45psi the regulator began to release fuel out of the bottom, I'm not particularly familiar with regulators but figured it shouldn't start to bypass until it hit the 49-51psi range? am I wrong?

I also read on here that people have used a 1994 Jeep Wrangler regulator, I called the local NAPA and they stated that regulator is listed 39psi...

Just need some advice here, would love to get her running before the snow flies and I have to wait tell April. Thanks in advance.

One last thing, the picture I included shows the regulator that I got, it included black o-rings and also the harder plastic blue pieces. The regulator does not fit very well into the housing with both o-rings and the blue plastic pieces, but seems to fit snug with just the o-rings, fits loose with just the plastic. Forgive my ignorance on all of this but which way is correct? Thanks again.
 

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When I did my rebuild I just bought a pump and filters. On mine, the low fuel sensor is at the pump and the wure had snapped off at the housing. It's nice to have a low fuel light again and be confident that the pump will go another 100K miles.

Are you sure the throttle body adaptor isn't sucking air? Got new cap-offs on the throttle body barbs? More cheap fixes.

I went ahead and replaced all the fuel lines, all the tank grommets/seal for the fuel pump, the adaptor, the cap-offs... everything rubber. Cheap insurance while it's apart.

Fuel pump and filter assembly from cheap cycle parts is $470.
Rylan Vos at the Vic Shop does rebuilds by mail that save you some money, but you'll still need filters at $78 (included in the fuel pump assembly for $470).

To replace all the rubber stuff (fuel sytem lines, gromets, adaptor, O-rings) would cost just under $400.

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Yeah... $870 plus cap-off at the auto parts store... but it could be done in an afternoon and good to go for a long long time.

You have to figure on some maintenance items coming into play after a bike is getting to be 12 years old.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All the rubber is brand new, throttle body adapter was cracked and replaced, all the vacuum ports were capped off with new caps, Old regulator was thrashed and already threw it away unfortunately. Currently on the phone with victory shops, and talking to quantum. Will update with what I find. Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Rylan hooked me up with a different fuel pressure regulator and boom, bench testing at 49-50 pounds. Time to go back together for the 10th time lol. Thanks again everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
@koldnrg did you get your problem solved?
Yep got the bike back together and it sits nicely at 49psi now, runs alot better and was even able to get the idle down a bit, pretty sure the previous owner had turned it up to combat the rough running.

To anyone considering doing a fuel pump rehab on their own its not overly difficult but I do recommend testing the pressure before going back together, and buying the regulator from Rylan. I didn't ask him what he charges for the pump but maybe order that from him as well. Or... save the headache and just send to him for repair lol.

Thanks again, time to ride before the snow flies.
 
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