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Front brake drag following tire change

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Hi there. Just joined; this is my first post. First of all, I just want to say thanks to all you forum contributors over the years. You have helped me understand my 2014 Victory Cross Country, and attempt to address a problem I’m having right now. Please bear with me while I tell you my tale of woe. It’s a bit of a long read, but I want to explain that I have covered all the obvious things. Shortly after getting my front tire replaced by a local ‘specialist’, I noticed a rubbing noise coming from the front wheel, as I was backing it out of my garage. To investigate, I went for a short ride, and stopping without using the front brakes, got off the bike and touched both rotors (at the same time). The right rotor was hot, the left was cool. Back home, I removed the right caliper and scrubbed the pistons with a toothbrush, soap and hot water, then with brake cleaner. Using a caliper spreader and shims, I isolated each of the 4 pistons and using the brake lever, made sure each piston was not stuck. I was also able to push back each piston with my fingers. I also cleaned the rotor, and spun and cleaned the rotor bobbins. When replacing the caliper, I spun the wheel and pulled on the brake lever to set the pads, before torquing up the bolts. The rubbing is now a bit quieter, and the rotor no longer gets hot. However, the dragging noise is still there, but disappears when the wheel is spun with the caliper removed. However, I’m inclined not to believe that the improvement was due to the caliper and rotor being cleaned, as the problem, statistically speaking, must be something to do with the recent tire replacement job. I think the improvement is related to the caliper being taken off and put back on again (an alignment thing). My next step was to remove the front wheel. The wheel, tire and spacers were the right way round, I re-torqued up the axle, and bounced on the suspension 5 times (front brake lever held), before locking the pinch bolts (as per 12.9 in the Service Manual). I also measured the runout of the rotor with a dial indicator; 0.007in; well within tolerance. I also replaced the pads and bled the front brakes, ensuring that the master cylinder was not overfilled. No change. I’m well into trial and error country now, and could easily spend hundreds of dollars with no improvement. I accept that there is always some drag, but there is hardly any noise from the left side. I can hear the right caliper noise out on the road with my earplugs in. With the wheel on correctly, and assuming the caliper, pads, brake fluid, and rotor OK, the only thing I can think of is fork alignment, especially as the problem caliper is on the ‘floating’ side of the axle. As I mentioned, I bounced on the suspension after refitting the wheel. I sat on the bike with my feet on the ground. However, I was not able to compress the forks to full travel, as I think I would need to have all my body on the bike to do this. Even with the bike lashed down, I don’t fancy doing it. How do you guys manage? Anyway, I’m fresh out of ideas on this one, and would appreciate your help. Regards, Dave.
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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
You don't fully compress the forks.
Grab front brake and bounce on the front end by pushing on handlebars while seated. Can rock the bike quite a bit doing this.

If forks are truly out of alignment you would need to loosen pinch bolts higher up and bounce on front end. This however would have made inserting the axle difficult so it would have been obvious.

You mention issue with the slide pin, you did lube these correct? I've had issues with pads sticking if the pin gets mucked up with road gunk. It caused me a low speed wobble as one side was still grabbing rotor while other was free spinning.

Good luck with it. Hopefully you can figure it out and let us know what you found.
Thanks IndyVictory. I loosened the pinch bolts of lower triple tree and the right fork, and managed to compress the suspension a lot more than previously. As I've mentioned elsewhere in this thread, the resistance when spinning the wheel by hand was significantly reduced after the suspension thing, but also after bleeding the brakes again. Unfortunately I don't know which one solved the puzzle. Thanks for the tips about the retaining pins. I put a sliver of brake grease on them after I check them for damage that may require dressing with a bit of 800 wet and dry.
 

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I do have another question for you guys (rotor radial runout), but will leave that for a future post.
Too L8 but I’m ignorant with that one so I’ll be hastily awaiting the discussion and knowledge sharing, is why we use this place
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Dave,

Your post is of great interest to me as I am having the same problem on my 2012 Vision Tour. I will be trying some of the suggestions that have been made here and will advise the results.

Thanks,
Jeff
Thanks Jeff. Can you give us some info on your particular situation. Did the problem become apparent after wheel removal/refitting? The guys on this forum are very knowledgeable and helpful, as you have probably worked out. Regards.
 

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My issue is a rubbing sound when moving very slowly coming to a stop. With and without front brake applied. I recently had new tires put on and it made no difference. Other than cleaning the rotors I haven’t done any troubleshooting. I’m going to develop a list of things to try from this post thread. I’ll advise my results…thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
My issue is a rubbing sound when moving very slowly coming to a stop. With and without front brake applied. I recently had new tires put on and it made no difference. Other than cleaning the rotors I haven’t done any troubleshooting. I’m going to develop a list of things to try from this post thread. I’ll advise my results…thanks.
One of the first things I did was ride the bike, and then stop, using the rear brake only. Then I checked to see whether either of the front rotors was hot. This gave me an idea of the severity of the problem, and narrowed it down to one caliper. But, I think the front and rear brakes on your bike are linked, so this may not be practical. Lifting the front of bike up and spinning the wheel by hand with each of the calipers removed in turn, might be better. Some recommend chalking the rotors and then moving the bike. I don't believe this is a reliable test, as the brake pads run close to the rotors. I'm not particularly savvy when it comes to motorcycles, but I found that with the aid of the Service Manual, and the info and advice on this forum, it was not that difficult. It was time consuming though; going through each permutation. I can't imagine what it would have cost if I had hired a tech. FYI, when I had my tires changed (at the beginning of my saga), the tech overtightened the drive belt. Regards.
 

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One of the first things I did was ride the bike, and then stop, using the rear brake only. Then I checked to see whether either of the front rotors was hot. This gave me an idea of the severity of the problem, and narrowed it down to one caliper. But, I think the front and rear brakes on your bike are linked, so this may not be practical. Lifting the front of bike up and spinning the wheel by hand with each of the calipers removed in turn, might be better. Some recommend chalking the rotors and then moving the bike. I don't believe this is a reliable test, as the brake pads run close to the rotors. I'm not particularly savvy when it comes to motorcycles, but I found that with the aid of the Service Manual, and the info and advice on this forum, it was not that difficult. It was time consuming though; going through each permutation. I can't imagine what it would have cost if I had hired a tech. FYI, when I had my tires changed (at the beginning of my saga), the tech overtightened the drive belt. Regards.
T
One of the first things I did was ride the bike, and then stop, using the rear brake only. Then I checked to see whether either of the front rotors was hot. This gave me an idea of the severity of the problem, and narrowed it down to one caliper. But, I think the front and rear brakes on your bike are linked, so this may not be practical. Lifting the front of bike up and spinning the wheel by hand with each of the calipers removed in turn, might be better. Some recommend chalking the rotors and then moving the bike. I don't believe this is a reliable test, as the brake pads run close to the rotors. I'm not particularly savvy when it comes to motorcycles, but I found that with the aid of the Service Manual, and the info and advice on this forum, it was not that difficult. It was time consuming though; going through each permutation. I can't imagine what it would have cost if I had hired a tech. FYI, when I had my tires changed (at the beginning of my saga), the tech overtightened the drive belt. Regards.
 

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FWIW, I never top off my brake fluid. Fill the reservoir with half worn brakes and the pistons will cause the pads to rub when you put on new pads. Make sure to remove the reservoir cap so you don't compress the air while installing new pads. Compressed air will cause piston spring back, also.
 

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Fluid doesn’t just vanish and most won’t evaporate either so I know what you mean by not topping off your brake fluid…..if it is low ( & is no leaks ) than the pads are worn, it’s the worn away pad material making the difference in space of fluid in the reservoir
 
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