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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there. Just joined; this is my first post. First of all, I just want to say thanks to all you forum contributors over the years. You have helped me understand my 2014 Victory Cross Country, and attempt to address a problem I’m having right now. Please bear with me while I tell you my tale of woe. It’s a bit of a long read, but I want to explain that I have covered all the obvious things. Shortly after getting my front tire replaced by a local ‘specialist’, I noticed a rubbing noise coming from the front wheel, as I was backing it out of my garage. To investigate, I went for a short ride, and stopping without using the front brakes, got off the bike and touched both rotors (at the same time). The right rotor was hot, the left was cool. Back home, I removed the right caliper and scrubbed the pistons with a toothbrush, soap and hot water, then with brake cleaner. Using a caliper spreader and shims, I isolated each of the 4 pistons and using the brake lever, made sure each piston was not stuck. I was also able to push back each piston with my fingers. I also cleaned the rotor, and spun and cleaned the rotor bobbins. When replacing the caliper, I spun the wheel and pulled on the brake lever to set the pads, before torquing up the bolts. The rubbing is now a bit quieter, and the rotor no longer gets hot. However, the dragging noise is still there, but disappears when the wheel is spun with the caliper removed. However, I’m inclined not to believe that the improvement was due to the caliper and rotor being cleaned, as the problem, statistically speaking, must be something to do with the recent tire replacement job. I think the improvement is related to the caliper being taken off and put back on again (an alignment thing). My next step was to remove the front wheel. The wheel, tire and spacers were the right way round, I re-torqued up the axle, and bounced on the suspension 5 times (front brake lever held), before locking the pinch bolts (as per 12.9 in the Service Manual). I also measured the runout of the rotor with a dial indicator; 0.007in; well within tolerance. I also replaced the pads and bled the front brakes, ensuring that the master cylinder was not overfilled. No change. I’m well into trial and error country now, and could easily spend hundreds of dollars with no improvement. I accept that there is always some drag, but there is hardly any noise from the left side. I can hear the right caliper noise out on the road with my earplugs in. With the wheel on correctly, and assuming the caliper, pads, brake fluid, and rotor OK, the only thing I can think of is fork alignment, especially as the problem caliper is on the ‘floating’ side of the axle. As I mentioned, I bounced on the suspension after refitting the wheel. I sat on the bike with my feet on the ground. However, I was not able to compress the forks to full travel, as I think I would need to have all my body on the bike to do this. Even with the bike lashed down, I don’t fancy doing it. How do you guys manage? Anyway, I’m fresh out of ideas on this one, and would appreciate your help. Regards, Dave.
 

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Welcome to TheVog.net. You've done the things I was thinking about; alignment, not over filling the master and correct spacer position. Are the pads oem? How many miles on them? Though if the pads didn't change with the tire, they shouldn't be an issue.

I know someone with more knowledge than I have will be around shortly. Likely when they post the things to check we'll all go; "yup, I should have thought of that."
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Many thanks Mark. I thought I had been thorough, but you've pointed out a few details that I should have mentioned. The bike has about 14,300 miles on the odo. So I guess the original pads were in before I swapped the right side out with EBC FA347HH. Now I know that I should have changed pads in both sides; this is just temporary until I sort the brake drag problem out. I have heard that the EBC HH pads drag a little bit, but so did the oem ones. You are right about your last comment. I'm currently flummoxed but someone will come up with a solution. Teamwork always wins.
 

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Wonder of the shop took the rotor off to put the new tire on.
 

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Tone rings on the left side but look for a bent /warped rotor while spinning the wheel & double check they didn’t flip the rotor if they did remove it to change the tire. Also, with pistons pushed all the way in check how well the rotor floats back and forth on its pins, they sometimes get an indentation or dirty spot and hang up on there
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did you remove the rotors when you had the tire changed?
Do you have Centramatic Balancers installed?
Thanks Paul. I did not remove my rotors before the tire change. Looking at the posts on this forum I realize I should have done, and will do in the future. I did measure the right hand rotor in my investigation, but the runout is only 0.007in. I do not have Centramatic Balancers installed; something to think about for the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wonder of the shop took the rotor off to put the new tire on.
I didn't notice any 'witness marks' on the mounting screws, so my guess would be no. After dealing with the fitter, a one-man outfit, he did not give me the impression that he was thorough. But, I'm ruling out the rotor as I have checked the axial runout, and it was well within tolerance. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Tone rings on the left side but look for a bent /warped rotor while spinning the wheel & double check they didn’t flip the rotor if they did remove it to change the tire. Also, with pistons pushed all the way in check how well the rotor floats back and forth on its pins, they sometimes get an indentation or dirty spot and hang up on there
I appreciate you getting back to me. I hadn't thought about the possibility of the rotor being flipped. That said, I've looked at the mounting screws, and they do not look like they have been disturbed. This is the bikes first tire change. I measured the axial runout, and it was in tolerance, but I do see that if the rotor was not reinstalled in the same orientation, it would change the setup. I've had a good look at the rotor turning (pistons in), with a flashlight in various positions. Looks OK, but I am considering removing the rotor and giving it the wire wool treatment.
 

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Greetings and Welcome @Dave White

Best wishes to you as you figure out the front pad drag.

Congratulations on your new-to-you Victory!

Below is some unsolicited and probably unwanted information.
Check and inspect the rubber parts for your fuel system. (Connections to tank specifically; and rubber-tipped, black plastic to air box (frame).)
Check and tighten your battery cables every oil change. They do work loose, and loose battery cables cause all sorts of weird behavior.
Check your clutch play when the bike is cold and again when warm. The fully engaged and disengaged zones are small. Adjust when cold.
Here is a link to the IAC reset procedure: Check Engine light/IAC problem
Here is a link to the TPS reset procedure: TPS reset procedure
The WIX 51356XP oil filter is probably the most used filter for our bikes. Trusted places like TheVicShop use this filter.
Oil Drain Plug Washers: 12mm ID x 19mm OD x 1.3mm thick - copper crush washers, you can get a bag of 25 from NAPA for $6.
Vacuum out the airbox when checking/cleaning the air filter.
Be advised that the fuel nipple on the bottom of the tank is plastic. When unclipping the fuel line from the tank, do not torque side to side to wiggle lose. Plastic breaks...
NGK DCPR6E are the OEM plugs and have proven themselves to be the most reliable.
Lyndall brakes are made in the US and are far better performers than other brands: All
The drive belt should easily last 80k miles or more. (154T, 28MM #3211107) Replacement can be found here: Replacement belt for Victory Motorcycles-BDL SPC-154-118
The fuel pump and voltage regulator can be had from aftermarket suppliers.
OEM fuel filters are hard to find. QFS Fuel Pump Strainer Only (QTY 3) Fits: Victory Cross Country / Touring 2013-2021 These are aftermarkets that can be made to work. (HFP-S20-3 (quantum) + 1” of 15/32 fuel line)
Check to see if there are any uncompleted recalls: VIN Search | Polaris Sportsman or Recalls | NHTSA.
A lot of people keep a spare 40 AMP circuit breaker. "40amp Napa Circuit Breaker, #782-3041 or #782-3116" (The difference is the mount bracket)
Lloyd’z Air Filter for Cross bikes is a common upgrade: Lloyd’z: XC/XR High-Flow Air Filter | LLOYD'Z Motor Workz
Rylan (VicBuilder) at TheVicShop has maps and excellent advice if your bike has a PCV fuel controller. An add-on Fuel Controller will most likely be behind the left side (shifter side) cover. TVS also has a large collection of YouTube videos on servicing VICs.
The Lloyd’s timing wheel is a very popular upgrade. Check the gasket around the right-side engine case cover. A factory gasket is nearly flush with the case and cover. The Lloyd’z gasket is thicker, firmer, and sticks up a bit, you can feel it.
Noe Martinez (noemtz) will perform remote MAXIMUS tunes. The MAXIMUS tune can adjust things that a PCV cannot. And without leaving an extra dangling bit on the side of your ride! Note: The Lloyd’z timing wheel is not needed with a Maximus tune. The timing wheel is very beneficial with PCV or by itself.
CrossCountryLA is a wizard with Victory Exhaust systems, known as Ragin Cajun’s.
Cross bikes Side Cover Grommets: NAPA part# NW784633
Brass brake and shifter lever bushings: $12 https://www.amazon.com/CICMOD-Bushings-Victory-Country-Stealth/dp/B07538RS5M/ref=sr_1_3?crid=34TT7PQA77IU2&keywords=victory+brass+bushing&qid=1653737938&sprefix=victory+brass+bushing,aps,119&sr=8-3&th=1
Clean and lube the clutch cable ends and the pin in the clutch perch at every oil change. Just the ends, the cable is lined don't put any lube down it.
Download the manuals from: MediaFire
With proper maintenance, these machines just keep going.

Ride safe,
Smokier
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The bike has ABS (tone ring on the left side). Yes, the longer spacer is on the left (clutch lever) side of the bike. I've included a couple of pics of the right hand (problem side) of the front wheel. Many thanks.
 

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Personally I’d throw the EBC in the trash and get the Lyndall Golds. Much better pads, no noise and won’t eat your rotors.

that being said, what is the background on the bike/you? Have you had it for a while? Have you changed pads before? How long has the dragging been going on for? Did it always drag or only after the tire change (or pad change). Why did you only change one side? The calipers should be independent, of course, but always should replace in pairs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Personally I’d throw the EBC in the trash and get the Lyndall Golds. Much better pads, no noise and won’t eat your rotors.

that being said, what is the background on the bike/you? Have you had it for a while? Have you changed pads before? How long has the dragging been going on for? Did it always drag or only after the tire change (or pad change). Why did you only change one side? The calipers should be independent, of course, but always should replace in pairs.
I've had the bike for a couple of years; I am the 3rd owner. I would characterize my riding style as 'relaxed'. With only 1400-ish miles on the clock, it still had its oem pads in. I only put the EBC pads in to see if it made any difference to the brake dragging, which I noticed shortly after a recent front tire change. When I say that, I mean that it's highly likely that the brake dragging was caused by something that happened in the tire change process, but I did not realize this immediately. I should have replaced the left hand pads as well, but do not want to bring too many variables into this puzzle just yet. I've heard good things about Lyndall pads, but there is not a wide selection of Victory compatible parts available here in Canada. Many thanks.
 

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If the original pads are still serviceable try putting them back in and see if that solves your problem.
There is a small chance that not replacing the left side pads could be the issue.
Never replaced just one set of pads on a dual disc front end.
Let us know when you find the cause.
 
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