I am working on my brothers 2000 v92se and he installed LED bulbs in the turn signals. He is not getting hyper flashing. I have tried to wire in load resistors to the front in the head light bucket. I used my multi meter to find the ground (black) and the signal trigger wire (blue) and the Brown is constant. I wired the resistor to the black and blue wires and still got the hyper flashing. I then tried every combo and nothing changed. I thought i could put in a LED flasher relay but for the life of me i can not find the relay and the factory service manuals do not have that information. Can anyone shed some light on how to get rid of the hyper flash-other that changing the bulbs back. Thank you.
First post....Help with signal flasher, Load resistor install
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I have now spent countless hours on the internet and in the garage trying to find the signal relay and for the life of me i can not find it. Does it even have one? I am about to tell my brother he is going to have to live with the hyper flash. LOL
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The 2000 MY I think used a standard flasher relay. Was the hyperflash during bike running or not? What load resistor, what rating and where did you get it? Did you use one for each side? Not sure about the wiring for that bike offhand but why are there 3 wires? Does it have running lights as well as turn?
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@FNG Also welcome. Do you ride a victory as well? We like pictures (of bikes, and girls and funny stuff). There's a link to mediafire here somewhere that might have a service manual for that bike as well. Could be useful in tracking some stuff down. Maybe you have this already. But the bike did not have LED option so there would be no info in the service manual anyway.
I just did a quick search and looks like the flasher relay isn't standard like I thought. I don't believe you will find an LED replacement that has the same pinout and functions.
The rating for the load resistor may be dependent on the replacement LEDs (assuming just replacement lamps?) I'd suggest maybe 2 separate 10-25 ohm 100W ceramic resistors and maybe drop a diode on the ground wire. Resistor has no polarity so it doesn't matter which way it's connected.
Also are both front and rear hyper flashing together? Even with the resistor installed if you have a lamp not flashing it might see it as a burnt out lamp and hyperflash.
I just did a quick search and looks like the flasher relay isn't standard like I thought. I don't believe you will find an LED replacement that has the same pinout and functions.
The rating for the load resistor may be dependent on the replacement LEDs (assuming just replacement lamps?) I'd suggest maybe 2 separate 10-25 ohm 100W ceramic resistors and maybe drop a diode on the ground wire. Resistor has no polarity so it doesn't matter which way it's connected.
Also are both front and rear hyper flashing together? Even with the resistor installed if you have a lamp not flashing it might see it as a burnt out lamp and hyperflash.
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Folks on the vintage bike forums have switched to LED turn signals, and have to use LED low-load specific flasher relays.
Have a look in here:
Flashers & Load Resistors | Motorcycle | Super Bright LEDs
Have a look in here:
Flashers & Load Resistors | Motorcycle | Super Bright LEDs
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there was no LED flasher module for the pre 2008 bikes .... i dont know about these little resistors but we use an actual load equalizer to stop hyperflashing
Load Equalizer
Load Equalizer
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That Load Equalizer is a set of 2 ceramic 50 or 100W resistors with one end tied together for one wire to the GND and each one of the other ends tied to one of the other 2 wires. It's possible (I could check with a meter) that they tossed in a couple of diodes then potted for weather-proofing. The parts, if bought individually, would be around $3-4. Self-potting would cost a tube of epoxy resin. That being said, I think $25 is a fair price if it works.
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You think maybe it's an issue in the replacement LEDs perhaps? Could it be a bad module? Maybe take it all back to stock and start fresh, follow the wiring diagram/schematics for the load equalizer. Ohm out the leads on the thing, see if the numbers match what the mfgr says they should be. In the end it is probably something simple as these things aren't super complicated. Who makes that unit?
first thanks for all the ideas. Here is where i am at the first resistors were 25W 6 ohm with one per side i would still have hyper flashing so i doubled them up and then i had good flash rate. So i then ordered 50W 6 ohm and installed 1 per side and got hyper flashing so i doubled that up and i got a good flash rate. So for now i have 2 resistors per side and a good flash rate.
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Assuming you put them in series? The power rating (25W) is the maximum power at which it can safely dissipate the heat for an indefinite length of time. The resistance (6ohm) is what you would have needed to change. If you connect them in parallel (side by side), you'd have 3ohm resistance. If you connect them in series (end to end) you have 12 ohm. I think I originally suggested 10-25 ohm 100w but 50w should be plenty. You should mount the resistors so they are making contact with metal if possible to help draw the heat away from the circuit. But only the resistor, not the leads else you create a short circuit.
This is positive news, however.
This is positive news, however.
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I suppose 25W should be ok. But yes if 3 ohms works (2x6ohm in parallel) then a single 3ohm resistor will work the same way. If you have access to a multi-meter you can test this while removed from the circuit to verify, which I would do before ordering or buying a replacement myself.
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