VOG Forum banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
View attachment 486337 View attachment 486345 View attachment 486353
I've had it Home for 2 weeks, 2017 with 2034 miles on it, the original owner did slip ons, air cleaner, power commander and downloaded stage 1 map. I paid $10,999 at a local dealership. I added a rear seat with a backrest, factory rear pegs, Swapped the bars for a 41" wide set of Big John bars from LA Choppers using a Cycle Visions HD adapter, added Oxford heated grips, (I have wicked arthritis in my hands), 2500/4000 lumen LED headlight, LED fog/driving lights, swapped the blinkers for Kratom Aircraft style aluminum housings and converted those to amber sealed LED's, trimmed the mud flap to pretty much just a plate mount bracket. Fixed all the botched wiring and loose ends from the original owner. Got a new Ram mount, pair of helmets, tank bag and jackets. Had a garage fire a while back and lost just about everything. Sold my 04' Busa, KWS race head and some other stuff to make this purchase. Still have most of another Busa and a 1441 stroker motor with an undercut race prepped tranny that makes 219 HP at rear wheel on 87 octane sitting on the bench waiting for a rainy day and some extra cash lol.

Just need comm stuff for rider/passenger and blue tooth and idk what else.

Thoughts besides why did I swap the bars, wrecked shoulder that goes numb when held at a 90° angle for too long. The bike looks retro so I went with a 40's style Beach Bar look. Put 100 miles on it today, stable and comfy at 70 and even 90+, no parachute feeling whatsoever and the Oxford heaters are hot at 50% on the highway at below 50°, tried 100% and it was too hot to be comfy.

So I'm at about $12,100 right now on the hard parts and bike, not including the new riding gear.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,733 Posts
Looks great. First HB I've seen where someone replaced with bars like that. I like them and giving you the riding position you need is awesome. What are your impressions riding it so far?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,092 Posts
Looks good. You are doing it right. Making it yours right off. That is the best way to do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
610 Posts
Where did you get the headlight and driving lights? Those like great on there!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had an 02’ Yamaha Warrior way back 16 years ago, I basically did a stage 3 on that, 102 bumped to 107, cams, head work, Propipe, air cleaner, Power commander, 280 rear tire... I feel like I’m back on that bike but just not as nimble or tourqey, that thing was putting out 154 ft lbs. I got a bunch of compliments today while I was out. That was nice. I love the bike especially with the bars. Only grumble so far would be overly stiff suspension, I haven’t checked to see how the first owner set it up yet, my guess is he cranked the preload, highway expansion joints are bordering on painful to the lower back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,071 Posts
Nice work!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Bike looks great. Was the headlight plug and play or did you have to do any wiring? Any pictures would be great if you had to wire it. Headlight feels a little weak on the Highball and I would love to have something brighter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The H4 is plug and play, I did cut and add a bullet style connection for the drl lights, the LED setup has a separate power wire for that feature as does the Highball (the little bulb in the headlight housing), I just made them match so I could unplug everything. The rubber mount and abs basket get removed. I mounted the new light to the inside of the trim ring vs trying to get it to stay in the right place in the headlight bucket. I used a light bead of quick set RTV silicone to hold it and maintain a tight seal against water being driven in and then (don’t cringe) made a loop around that with 1” Gorilla tape just as a back up and protection against vibrations. Having the light removed with the housing and losing the giant rubber donut and basket is a plus to me with all the wiring now inside the bucket, grip warmers with fuse, driving lights with relay and 2 load equalizers for the LED blinkers.

The ones in my Miata have lasted 3 years and 50k in the pop up housings so the Gorilla tape was probably overkill but you can’t see it and that stuff will hold damn near anything in place when it comes down to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There is no extra wiring or stuff needed as long as you order a 5.75” H4, they don’t all have the drl feature or in some cases a halo ring but if they do it will usually require a second power wire to operate it. The Highball has that wire already in there, the drl stays on all the time as well as the low beam, one of the models must have a light sensor which would shut off the drl at night or when the headlight was turned on otherwise it wouldn’t have the extra bulb in there and would just use the low beam.

When swapping the the blinkers to LED’s you need a 50k resistor or load equalizer across both circuits (right and left) or you get the fast blink or solid on and a buzzing relay under the right side of the seat behind the fuse block. I put those up inside the headlight bucket out of harms way.
 

·
Lone Rider of the Apocolypse
Joined
·
6,677 Posts
Excellent work. I think this is the best HB I have seen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,559 Posts
I believe the small bulb is some stupid requirement in UK or Europe or somewhere in the event your low beam pops, you still have light up front to warn others, I also think it stays on when in ACC mode with the key.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,509 Posts
Wow that's a lot of work and it payed off looks great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks guys, it’s a totally different bike with those bars on there.

When I saw the bike at the dealership I pictured an old bike from the 40’s and started ordering parts before I even had the bike.

If you ride at night the LED lights are just amazing, it’s like daylight with them all on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The little bulb is live with the key, I used it to power the drl lights on the LED headlight and added an on/off switch to the actual low beam bulbs so they aren’t on unless I want them on. I ran a separate fuse, power and ground and relay for the driving lights. I also installed a live all the time waterproof socket under the right side cover for GPS, cell phone charger etc, I put it on a 2 wire trailer plug so I can unhook it and plug in a battery tender.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
110 Posts
The little bulb is live with the key, I used it to power the drl lights on the LED headlight and added an on/off switch to the actual low beam bulbs so they aren't on unless I want them on. I ran a separate fuse, power and ground and relay for the driving lights. I also installed a live all the time waterproof socket under the right side cover for GPS, cell phone charger etc, I put it on a 2 wire trailer plug so I can unhook it and plug in a battery tender.
Wanna upgrade my headlight to LED, those wrap sroaro blinkers...then I thought good idea to get rid of the plastic turn signals.. not really suited for the HB looks....plastic eeeh, I kept kicking the rear turn signals getting off bike too, I need metal blinkers
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top