exhaust removal | Victory Motorcycles: Motorcycle Forums

exhaust removal

Discussion in 'Tech Q&A' started by marlake, Oct 27, 2021.

  1. marlake

    marlake Active Member

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    I'm trying to remove my exhaust which is necessary, I've learned, to replace my drive belt and starter. I've spent the morning removing heat shield and mufflers. All that remains is the cross over pipe and the front/rear head pipes. I have loosened and/or removed every damn nut, bolt, clamp etc. that I can find and the sumbitch won't budge. Yes, I removed the bottom bolt from the passenger foot rest which helps secure the cross over pipe. I had to quit for the day cause I was at the point where I start to break sh$t and I'm gonna have a few beers and check back here later for the solution one of you will give me so I can finish the job tomorrow.
    Do the front and rear head pipes need to be pulled apart? That's the only thing left that I can see is holding things together. It's so solid I feel I've missed some substantial bolt or clamp but I'll be damned if I can find it.
    Any guidance will be greatly appreciated?
    Thanks in advance.
     
  2. Pauljp

    Pauljp Well-Known Member

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    The rear header is welded to the cross over pipe and can not be separated.
    The front header can be removed as well as both mufflers.
    You will also have to remove the oil filter to drop the cross over pipe.
    Hope this helps.
     

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  3. normthenomad

    normthenomad Well-Known Member

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    Just had to remove the exhaust and mufflers to access my starter. It's a chore. If it's never been apart separating the front header is a MF'er. Took me and a young strong helper with a 5# rubber mallet and half a can of penetrating oil to get it free.
    5hr, job round trip with two people, only took 1/2 hour to R&R the starter.
    You're almost there!
    Just went out and looked at the CR, the crossover and the rear header doesn't have to come off to do the belt.
     
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  4. marlake

    marlake Active Member

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    Thanks guys. I know I'm nearly there but having not done it before it's a bit daunting.
    Your input is greatly appreciated.
    Next good riding weather for my area is Sunday so I have some time to figure it out.
    PITA though.
     
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  5. Pauljp

    Pauljp Well-Known Member

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    Yup, I have done it as well by removing the entire exhaust system.
    But there is an easier way.

    The reason to remove the entire exhaust is because the front header is in the way of removing the starter.
    The front header can't move forward out of the way because it hits the top corner of the battery box.
    However, if you cut off the top corner, about 1/2 inch of just that corner, then the header will slide right on past it and you can then remove the starter.
    You won't see the cut that you did because all the panels will go back on and cover it up when it is done.
    Anyway, just another way of doing things.
     
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  6. normthenomad

    normthenomad Well-Known Member

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    Once all the chin fairing is off it only took a few minutes to loosen the battery box and move it out of the way. Don't think I would have saved much time compared to cutting it. Besides it gave the opportunity to clean and tighten the battery cables.
     
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  7. marlake

    marlake Active Member

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    I'm about ready to throw in the towel.
    Woke up fresh this morning, ready to go at it again with this PITA. In the past, when I've hit the wall, it helps to step away and return fresh to the issue at hand. Often with a clear head and new, positive attitude the job is more easily accomplished. Not this friggin time. The only thing I did additionally this morning was remove the oil filter as suggested by Pauljp. The remaining pipes (rear/front header pipes and crossover pipe) WILL NOT BUDGE.
    It seems to me that the front and rear header pipes have the engine in a strong embrace and the only way to remove them is to separate them so they can move indepently. These pipes still have the heat shields on and I can't see an easy way to remove them nor do I know if that is even necessary.
    In conclusion, I'm at the point where I'm considering simply putting everything back together. I will then ride my bike till the belt and/or starter fails at which time I will happily pay some shop to skin their knuckles instead of skinning mine.
    Remember, this was going to be "preventive maintenance" as neither the belt or starter was currently compromised.
    So close yet, seemingly, so far from success. I'm really frustrated and PO'ed.
    Somebody talk me down please.
     
  8. normthenomad

    normthenomad Well-Known Member

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    Th
    Refer to the above: The front header is the only one that has to come off. The only heat shield you have to remove is the one where the exhaust splits. Get the retaining flange on the front exhaust off the mounting studs spray a lot of your preferred penetrating oil where the front header goes into the crossover junction. Then sit down and wiggle the front header until it comes out. If you can find someone to help persuade it with a RUBBER mallet as you're wiggling it. It will come out.
    The goal is to widen the female side of the junction. This particular part of the procedure took about twenty minutes of swearing and straining to accomplish. Again I had help. If I was doing it on my own it would have taken at least twice as long.
    The youngster helping me is strong as an ox, so that helped.
    Sounds like yours has been together since new. Mine had, made me want a steel frame again, or at least a 2 into 1 exhaust.
     
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  9. Pauljp

    Pauljp Well-Known Member

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    It seems to me that the front header is stuck in the cross over section.
    There is a clamp (C) that holds the two together, as seen in the photo in my post #2.
    I imagine that you removed that clamp. Also notice the groves in the mating part of the cross over section (E) in my photo.
    Can you separate that a little bit and spray some lubricant into it?
    What about the other end of the front header attached to the front jug. 2 bolts are holding it on, and they can actually unscrew from the jug which will give you some movement back and forth to slowly get the front header away from the cross over. Don't force those 2 bolts though, you don't want to damage the jug.
    What year is the bike? Maybe it is too far rusted to remove without pullers and such.
    When I was putting mine back together I separated the female mating parts and put a coating of high temp anti-seize on the male ends to hopefully make it easier the next time I need to take it apart.

    Concentrate on the mating part (C). Separate and lubricate. Sounds kinky but treat her like a lady. She will come apart. Lol.
     
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  10. Pauljp

    Pauljp Well-Known Member

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    You beat me to it @normthenomad. Exactly what I was saying. Treat her like a lady... separate and lubricate. Lol
     
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  11. normthenomad

    normthenomad Well-Known Member

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    What's the word? Women's legs. Spread the word!
     
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  12. normthenomad

    normthenomad Well-Known Member

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    Forgot to mention the anti seize, I used it, but if I ever have to do it again it'll be just long enough for it to have become ineffective.
     
  13. marlake

    marlake Active Member

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    Thanks to input from you guys I've gotten to the point where the belt is changed and the starter is replaced. I'm beginning the process of re-installing the exhaust system. This should be relatively easy. Before I do though, is there any reason I shouldn't try to engage the newly installed starter before I replace the header pipes.
    I bench tested the new starter and it seemed to be ok but, because of the struggle I had initially removing the exhaust, I'd like to hit the start button for a split second just to be sure everything is AOK. Don't need it to actually start the engine, just turn over freely. I can't imagine a problem but I would like some reassurance. Wouldn't be the first time I screwed something up that I was trying to make better.
    By the way, I'm not gonna admit that a friend stopped by and found ( in about a minute) a bolt I had missed on the left side of the bike on the flange of the cross over pipe which prevented me from removing the entire exhaust system.
    My experience over the past couple of days has made me an invaluable fountain of knowledge in this area. I can explain in great detail what NOT TO DO if you choose to try this yourself. I have come to realize that I'm not very talented as a mechanic but I'm stubborn as hell.
    Thanks again for all your input.

    RIDE SAFE :headbang:
     
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  14. normthenomad

    normthenomad Well-Known Member

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    Did you disassemble the starter, clean it, polish the commutator, grease the bearings in the end caps?
    Don't want you to have to do this again although it'll be a lot easier if you have to.
    Nothing has happened to you that hasn't happened to the rest of us.
    Don't know that I'd hit the starter without being back together, only thing that spooks me on these bikes is how sensitive the electrics are. Hopefully someone will offer up some experience on that one.
     
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  15. Richie271

    Richie271 Active Member

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    I actually fired up my starter while it was laying on the garage floor , using a set of jumper cables, to make sure all was good before installing it. I put my foot on it to prevent it from flopping around on the floor.

    I hooked on to the output of the starter relay to make sure I tested the complete starting circuit.
     
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