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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve got a 2012 xc seems to slip on the display in 6th gear at roupghly 3000-3500 RPMs drops down to 5th I’ve adjusted the clutch seems like it was getting better but back again bike only has 27,000 miles could the clutch be gone ???
 

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If the clutch arm on top of the engine has free play with the clutch released then the clutch definitely has a problem. Do you have engine mod's / cams etc? If so a HD Barnett clutch spring may be needed.
 

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Is the clutch actually slipping as in engine RPM increase with no more forward movement, or is it just the gear display changing.
 

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Is the clutch actually slipping as in engine RPM increase with no more forward movement, or is it just the gear display changing.
I was a little confused by the OP's wording also.
 

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I've got a 2012 xc seems to slip on the display in 6th gear at roupghly 3000-3500 RPMs drops down to 5th I've adjusted the clutch seems like it was getting better but back again bike only has 27,000 miles could the clutch be gone ???
Are you due for an oil change?

My Vision will tell me when I'm past 2400 miles on the oil. Don't even have to check the trip meter. It'll creep at a light and slip slightly when pushed.
 

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Just trying to clarify what the OP is saying. OP said that the display was slipping ??.
What I think the OP is experiencing is something like: cruising 70mph on the highway in 6th. 2800 rpm's are normal. Start to climb a hill holding that speed but rpm's increase to say 3200. The computer is calculating RPM and MPH so it assumes you downshifted to 5th. Clutch is slipping.
 

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Ok let’s get to it. What oil we using ? How many miles ? Adjust the clutch only when overnight cold.
 

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What I think the OP is experiencing is something like: cruising 70mph on the highway in 6th. 2800 rpm's are normal. Start to climb a hill holding that speed but rpm's increase to say 3200. The computer is calculating RPM and MPH so it assumes you downshifted to 5th. Clutch is slipping.
Got it, thanks. I was somewhat confused, which does happen occasionally :confused:. I agree, clutch slipping.
 

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I think it's the actual display in 5th and 6th when I gun it display seems to drop down a #
Does the rpms to go up quickly? Quicker than normal? Does it feel like the engine is revving up more but you don't feel the bike pull harder?

Clutch plates tend to slip in higher gears first. If this is the issue it will only get worse. Either the clutch plates have worn to point of needing to be replaced or as other said; there's an oil issue. Sometimes people try a full synthetic oil only to find it makes their clutch slip. The cure is to change back to semi-synth.

Seriously; what kind of oil are you using and when did you change it last?
 

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Full synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil never was the reason for clutch slipping. Amsoil, Redline, Mobil 1 ( HC’s choice ) as well as many other MC specific oils are designed for wet clutch application.
The issue with slipping clutches is usually improper adjustment and usage (owner error ) CAUSING issues to especially show up sooner than later.

Let’s put the myth to rest. The reason many of our tuners and dealers stuck with semi synthetic oil especially Victory brand is because they don’t want to hear the complaints associated with recommending anything other than what the manufacturer spec’d. It’s a safe bet.
Problem with clutch ?
Yes slipping !
What oil ?
Victory !
Ok let’s check the clutch.

Scenario 2
What oil ?
Amsoil 20/40 made for Victory. See...... says so on the bottle.
Ok ...... let’s change the oil
Huh ??????

What does Honda, Harley, Yamaha recommend.
Yep safe bet.

My Vic mechanics ( aFew) recommend Amsoil, Spectro 20/40 semi syn and some like the full synthetic. Rotella.
JASOMA2 motorcycle specific oil.

I ran 10/40 Amsoil for 4 years then switched to 20/40
Amsoil for 3 more oil changes without a glitch.
Due to the fact that I have over 30k on a cammed bike producing more power than stock and I ride 2 up and loaded a lot I have decided on 20/40 semi Spectro with sooner change intervals 3k instead of 4 to 5k.
 

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Full synthetic MOTORCYCLE oil IS and never was the reason for clutch slipping. Amsoil, Redline, Mobil 1 ( HC's choice ) as well as many other MC specific oils are designed for wet clutch application.
The issue with slipping clutches is usually improper adjustment and usage (owner error ) CAUSING issues to especially show up sooner than later.

Let's put the myth to rest. The reason many of our tuners and dealers stuck with semi synthetic oil especially Victory brand is because they don't want to hear the complaints associated with recommending anything other than what the manufacturer spec'd. It's a safe bet.
Problem with clutch ?
Yes slipping !
What oil ?
Victory !
Ok let's check the clutch.

Scenario 2
What oil ?
Amsoil 20/40 made for Victory. See...... says so on the bottle.
Ok ...... let's change the oil
Huh ??????

What does Honda, Harley, Yamaha recommend.
Yep safe bet.

My Vic mechanics ( aFew) recommend Amsoil, Spectro 20/40 semi syn and some like the full synthetic. Rotella.
JASOMA2 motorcycle specific oil.

I ran 10/40 Amsoil for 4 years then switched to 20/40
Amsoil for 3 more oil changes without a glitch.
Due to the fact that I have over 30k on a cammed bike producing more power than stock and I ride 2 up and loaded a lot I have decided on 20/40 semi Spectro with sooner change intervals 3k instead of 4 to 5k.
Methinks you're getting your back hairs up too quick.

You know all oils are not created equal. If the OP or anyone else used an oil not specifically designed for wet clutch application it can definitely cause clutch slippage. It's all about the quantity of Moly in the oil. A little is okay but too much and the clutch slips.
 

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Methinks you're getting your back hairs up too quick.

You know all oils are not created equal. If the OP or anyone else used an oil not specifically designed for wet clutch application it can definitely cause clutch slippage. It's all about the quantity of Moly in the oil. A little is okay but too much and the clutch slips.
My friend and long time Vogger. Did you read my post. "Motorcycle specific " I know all about wrong oils used in certain applications. Believe it or not I've seen where detergent oils were used and the culprit argued it was the fault of the clutch. Lol.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I usually change it first thing in the season though really haven’t had the bike out I have always got the victory oil change kit maybe I’ll go with the amsoil 20/40 this time see it that helps this isn’t a huge issue yet just trying to fix this before it becomes a problem
 

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I ran Redline 20w-50 for a while then switched to Redline 10w-40 synthetics in my 2013 Victory Cross Country Tour and with my upgrades it put out 92.2 HP and 107 lbs feet of torque on the chassis dyno at the rear wheel. The bike had a set of D&D mufflers, Accel 8mm plug wires, NGK Iridium spark plugs, a Lloyds high flow air filter and a Dobeck AFR+ GEN 4 tuner and the clutch never slipped on the bike in the just over 44,000 miles I put on it.

Synthetic oils are not the problem with slipping clutches. There is another problem that gets masked by semi-synthetic oils as semi-synthetic oils can only have no more than 30% synthetic oil in them so many are pretty much just conventional oil with a little synthetic oil added to them to call then semi-synthetic oils. That synthetic oil can be group III conventional oil by the way so the truth be told I would bet most semi-synthetic oils are really just conventional group II oils with a splash of Group III conventional oil added to them.

That means that at least 70% or more of a semi-synthetic oil is group II conventional oil because a group III oil can legally be called a full synthetic because of the NAD ruling when Mobil challenged Castrol over their labeling group III conventional oils as full synthetic.
 
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